About This Manual
This manual uses the following symbols to emphasize particular information:
About These Units
Limitation
For residential (domestic) installation only. Installation work and electrical wiring must be done by qualified person(s) in accordance with all applicable codes and standards, including fire-rated construction codes and standards.
- Use this unit only in the manner intended by the manufacturer.
- Before servicing or cleaning, disconnect power cord from electrical outlet.
- This unit is not designed to provide combustion and/or dilution air for fuel-burning appliances.
- When cutting or drilling into wall or ceiling, do not damage electrical wiring and other hidden utilities.
- Do not use this unit with any solid-state speed control device other than specified controls:
UNIT MAIN CONTROL AUXILIARY CONTROLS ERV100SP VT8W, VT7W, VT4W OR VT6W VB60W AND 59W ERV100S VT7W, VT4W OR VT6W VB20W AND 59W - This unit must be grounded. The power supply cord has a 3-prong grounding plug for personal safety. It must be plugged into a mating 3-prong grounding receptacle, grounded in accordance with national electrical code and local codes and ordinances. Do not remove the ground prong. Do not use an extension cord.
- Do not install in a cooking area or connect directly to any appliances.
- Do not use to exhaust hazardous or explosive materials and vapors.
- When performing installation, servicing or cleaning, wear safety glasses and gloves.
- When applicable local regulation comprises more restrictive installation and/or certification requirements, the aforementioned requirements prevail on those of this document and the installer agrees to conform to these at his expenses.
- To avoid premature clogged filters, turn OFF the unit during construction or renovation.
- Read specification label on product for further information and requirements.
- Be sure to duct air outdoor - Do not intake/exhaust air into spaces within walls or ceiling or into attics, crawl spaces, or garage.
- Intended for residential installation only in accordance with the requirements of NFPA 90B.
- Do not run any air ducts directly above or closer than 2 ft to any furnace or its supply plenum, boiler, or other heat producing appliance. If a duct has to be connected to the furnace return plenum, it must be connected not closer than 9' 10" from this plenum connection to the furnace.
- The ductwork is intended to be installed in compliance with all local and national codes that are applicable.
- When leaving the house for a long period of time (more than two weeks), a responsible person should regularly check if the unit operates adequately.
- If the ductwork passes through an unconditioned space (e.g.: attic), the unit must operate continuously except when performing maintenance and/or repair. Also, the ambient temperature of the house should never drop below 65°F.
Typical Installations
Use the following guidelines to help decide on how the unit will be installed. All units should be hung from joists or ceiling using included brackets. An optional chains and spring kit (part no. V61239, sold separately) can be used instead. Bathroom fans and range hoods can exhaust stale air. For multi-level homes, one exhaust register at the highest level is recommended.
There are 3 installation methods: Fully Ducted, Central Draw Point, and Simplified Installation. A standard 3-prong electrical outlet must be available within 3 feet of the unit.
For House
Fully Ducted System (Primarily for homes with radiant hot water or electric baseboard heating)
Stale air from registers at the highest level is exhausted outdoors. Fresh air from outdoors is filtered and supplied by registers at the lowest liveable level. Homes with more than one level require at least one exhaust register at the highest level.
Central Draw Point (Connection to a forced air system)
Stale air from registers at the highest level is exhausted outdoors. Fresh air from outdoors is filtered and supplied to the return (plenum) or supply duct of the forced air unit. It is not essential for the forced air system blower to run when the unit is in operation, but it is recommended. For homes with multiple forced air systems, one unit per system is advised.
Simplified Installation (Connection to a forced air system)
Stale air is exhausted outdoors. Fresh air from outdoors is filtered and supplied to the return (plenum) or supply duct of the forced air unit. To avoid cross-contamination and achieve highest efficiencies, the forced air system blower must always be ON. For homes with multiple forced air systems, one unit per system is advised.
For High-Rise Dwelling
Fully Ducted System (Primarily for homes with radiant hot water or electric baseboard heating)
Stale air from registers in bathrooms and kitchen is exhausted outdoors. Fresh air from outdoors is filtered and supplied by registers in bedrooms and living room.
Central Draw Point (Connection to a fan-coil system)
Stale air from registers in bathrooms and kitchen is exhausted outdoors. Fresh air from outdoors is filtered and supplied to the supply duct of the fan-coil system unit. It is not essential for the fan-coil system blower to run when the unit is in operation, but it is recommended.
Installation
Inspect the Contents of the Box
- Inspect the exterior of the unit for shipping damage (door, hinges, power cord).
- Open the unit door and inspect the interior for damage (energy recovery core, core filters, insulation, dampers).
Unit Preparation
All units have 2 ports with integrated balancing dampers (Fresh air to building and Exhaust air to outdoors ports). Before installation, ensure these ports are in wide open position. If not:
- Loosen the damper lever locking screw.
- Use the damper lever to open the damper.
- Lock the damper in position by tightening the locking screw.
How to Hang the Unit
Hang the unit using 2 included brackets.
- Mount brackets to ceiling or joists. Use the template printed on the cardboard filler located in the unit box to ease location. Align bracket notches with cardboard filler tabs. Use at least 2 end screws (or nails) per bracket; the center one is optional.
- Bend 90° integrated hooks (2 places) on the unit.
- Hang the hooks onto the brackets.
- Clip the other side of the unit onto the brackets (2 places).
Planning of the Ductwork
- Keep it simple: minimum bends and joints.
- Keep insulated duct length to a minimum.
- Do not ventilate crawl spaces or cold rooms.
- Do not attempt to recover exhaust air from a dryer or range hood (causes clogging).
- For multi-floor houses, plan at least one exhaust register on the highest lived-in level.
Installing the Ductwork and Registers
Fully Ducted System
Stale air exhaust ductwork: Install registers where contaminants are produced (kitchen, living room), as far from stairway as possible, circulating air in all lived-in spaces. Kitchen registers must be at least 4 feet from the range. Install registers 6 to 12 inches from the ceiling on an interior wall OR in the ceiling.
Fresh air distribution ductwork: Install registers in bedrooms, dining rooms, living room, and basement. Locate fresh air registers as far as possible from stale air registers. Install registers in the ceiling OR 6 to 12 inches from the ceiling on an interior wall. If floor installed, direct airflow up the wall.
Central Draw Point System
Stale air exhaust ductwork: Same as Fully Ducted System.
Fresh air distribution ductwork:
There are 2 methods for connecting the unit to the furnace/air handler:
Method 1: Supply side connection (All units)
- Cut an opening into the furnace supply duct at least 18 inches from the furnace/air handler.
- Connect this opening to the Fresh air to building port of the ERV using steel duct. Ensure the ERV duct forms an elbow inside the furnace/air handler ductwork.
- If desired, interlock (synchronize) the furnace/air handler blower operation (see Section 4).
Method 2: Return side connection (exclusively for ERV100SP unit only)
- Cut an opening into the furnace return duct not less than 10 feet from the furnace/air handler.
- Connect this opening to the Fresh air to building port of the ERV.
Simplified Installation
There are 2 methods for connecting the unit to the furnace/air handler:
Method 1: Supply-return connection (All units)
- Stale air intake: Cut an opening into the furnace/air handler return duct not less than 10 feet from the furnace/air handler. Connect this opening to the Exhaust air from building port of the ERV.
- Fresh air distribution: Same instructions as for Method 1 or Method 2, Section 2.6.2.
Method 2: Return-return (exclusively for ERV100SP unit)
- For Method 2 (Return-return), ensure a distance of at least 3 feet between the 2 connections to the furnace/air handler.
Connecting the Ducts to the Unit
Insulated flexible ducts:
All units have integrated balancing dampers on both Fresh air to building and Exhaust air to outdoors ports. Ensure these are wide open (See Section 2.2).
Procedure for connecting insulated flexible ducts to the unit ports (Exhaust air to outdoors and Fresh air from outdoors ports):
- Pull back the insulation to expose the flexible duct.
- Attach the flexible duct to the port using a tie wrap.
- Pull the insulation over the joint and tuck it between the inner and outer rings of the double collar, then pull down the vapor barrier over the insulation and tuck it between the inner and outer rings.
- Apply duct tape to the joint (outer ring and vapor barrier) making an airtight seal. Avoid compressing insulation.
Rigid ducts:
Use a small (6") length of flexible duct to connect the rigid duct to the ports to avoid vibration transmissions. Use tie-wraps for connections, then seal with duct tape.
Installing 2 Exterior Hoods
Choose an appropriate location for exterior hoods:
- Minimum distance of 10' between hoods to avoid cross-contamination.
- Minimum distance of 18" from the ground.
For connecting insulated ducts to exterior hoods, refer to the diagram in the full manual. An "Anti-gust intake hood" should be installed in regions with heavy snow.
The typical setup involves an exhaust hood and an intake hood. The exhaust hood is usually positioned higher than the intake hood. Ducts connect from the unit to these hoods, with specific minimum distances required for separation and from the ground.
Installing Tandem® Transition Kit
If desired, a Tandem transition kit (part no. VTYIK1) can be used instead of 2 exterior hoods. The joist opening needed must be 9¾" minimum, and the maximum height of the transition is 8". Follow instructions included with the kit for connecting insulated flexible ducts (Exhaust air to outdoors and Fresh air from outdoors).
Controls
The ERV100SP unit has an integrated defrost control, while the ERV100S unit has an integrated control. Both electronic devices are located under the unit, in front of the electrical compartment. Plug in the unit.
The integrated control LED (1) and push button (2) are key for operation and status indication.
Booting Sequence
Similar to a computer boot sequence, the unit performs a booting sequence after being plugged in or after a power failure.
ERV100SP Unit Booting Sequence
Integrated defrost control LED (1) is OFF for 3 seconds, then RED for ~15 seconds while checking/resetting motorized damper position. Once complete, the LED color indicates the defrost cycle setting.
ERV100S Unit Booting Sequence
Integrated control LED (1) lights GREEN or AMBER for 3 seconds, then shuts off (or lights up in previous mode). No command is taken until fully booted.
ERV100SP Unit Integrated Defrost Control
After booting, LED (1) shows the defrost cycle. Use push button (2) to change the cycle. A 15-minute delay applies for new settings to be saved.
Three defrost cycles are available:
- STANDARD: Factory set, most energy efficient, achieves HVI and ENERGY STAR® listed performance. Defrosts on high speed when needed.
- PLUS: For cold regions (below -17°F). Performs defrost on high speed for longer periods.
- DISCRETION: Defrosts at the unit's current ventilation speed (high or low).
ERV100S Unit Integrated Control
Use push button (2) to control the unit. LED (1) indicates mode:
LED COLOR | RESULTS |
---|---|
AMBER | UNIT IS ON LOW SPEED |
GREEN | UNIT IS ON HIGH SPEED |
NO LIGHT | UNIT IS OFF OR CONTROLLED BY A MAIN CONTROL |
Setting Extended Defrost for ERV100S Unit
Factory set to normal defrost. For cold regions (below -17°F), extended defrost may be needed. During the first 3 seconds of booting, the integrated control LED shows current defrost mode:
LED COLOR | DEFROST MODE |
---|---|
GREEN | NORMAL |
AMBER | EXTENDED |
Within the first 3 seconds of booting, press the push button until the LED blinks, then release. The LED will blink AMBER 5 times, then shut off, then turn RED (unit returns to booting sequence).
Electrical Connection to Wall Controls
The ERV100SP unit requires a main control. The ERV100S unit can use an optional main control.
- The integrated control must be turned OFF on ERV100S unit to use an optional main control.
- If an optional auxiliary control is used, when activated, it overrides the optional main control operation.
Open the unit door. Insert the terminal connector (included in the installation kit) under the unit, on the electrical compartment front face. Use this connector for main and optional wall controls, then secure the cable(s) with a tie wrap.
Ensure all wires are correctly inserted in their corresponding holes in the terminal block (an orange receptacle lower than another without wire indicates correct insertion). Splice back cable end to access 4 wires. Strip wire ends. Connect each wire to its corresponding terminal: YELLOW to "Y", RED to "R", GREEN to "G", and BLACK to "B". Connect auxiliary control cable if installed.
Detailed wiring diagrams for specific wall controls (VT8W, VT7W, VT4W, VT6W, and optional auxiliary controls like 59W, VB60W, VB20W) are provided in the full manual. These diagrams illustrate the terminal connections for each control type. If an optional auxiliary wall control is activated, it will override main wall control commands.
Once wall control connections are made and checked, close the unit door.
Electrical Connection to the Furnace
For a furnace connected to a cooling system:
On some older thermostats, energizing the “R” and “G” terminals at the furnace may energize "Y" at the thermostat, turning on the cooling system. If this occurs, use the ALTERNATE FURNACE INTERLOCK WIRING.
The manual provides detailed wiring diagrams for both STANDARD FURNACE INTERLOCK WIRING (for two-wire heating only or four-wire cooling systems) and ALTERNATE FURNACE INTERLOCK WIRING (for two-wire heating only or four-wire cooling systems). These diagrams show connections between the furnace 24-volt terminal block, thermostat terminals, and the unit terminal connector, including specific wire colors and jumper settings (e.g., JU1 jumper for speed selection).
Speed Selection
Factory set high speed is 100 CFM, and low speed is approximately 50 CFM. To change these values, the transformer wire taps connections must be changed. The manual includes a table and illustration detailing the connections for different CFM values:
Speed | Connection | JU1 Jumper | |
---|---|---|---|
100 CFM | BL-BL | H (1-2) | |
High Speed | 85 CFM | BN-BL | M (2-3) |
65 CFM | GY-R | ||
Low Speed | 50 CFM | R-R |
A diagram illustrates the internal electronic assembly with connection points (J5, J7, J8, J9, J10, J11, J12, J13, J14, J20) and the JU1 jumper, showing how different wire tap connections (e.g., BL-BL, BN-BL, GY-R, R-R) correspond to high and low speed settings.
Wiring Diagram
- Risk of electric shocks. Before performing any maintenance or servicing, always disconnect the unit from its power source.
- This product is equipped with an overload protection (fuse). A blown fuse indicates an overload or a short-circuit situation. If the fuse blows, unplug the product from the outlet. Discontinue using the unit and contact technical support.
The full manual contains a comprehensive wiring diagram and a logic diagram for the ERV100S and ERV100SP units. These diagrams detail the electrical connections for components such as the exhaust fan motor (M1), supply fan motor (M2), damper motor (M3), transformer (T1), capacitors (C1, C2), door interlock switch (S1), thermistors (R1, R2), and the electronic assembly (A1, A2). They show the flow of 120 VAC line voltage and low voltage class 2 circuits, including various connectors (J-series) and fuse (F1). Notes on field wiring, remote controls, and furnace fan circuits are also included.
Balancing the Unit
What You Need to Balance the Unit
- A magnehelic gauge capable of measuring 0 to 0.5 inch of water (0 to 125 Pa).
- 2 plastic tubes.
- The balancing chart located on the unit door.
Preliminary Stages to Balance the Unit
- Seal all unit ductwork with tape. Close all windows and doors.
- Turn off all exhaust devices (range hood, dryer, bathroom fans).
- Ensure integrated balancing dampers are fully open (Exhaust air to outdoor port and Fresh air to outdoor port, see step 2.2).
- Ensure all filters are clean (if not first time balancing).
Make sure the unit is not running in defrost mode while balancing. If outdoor temperature is below 32°F, defrost mode may activate. To cancel defrost: use auxiliary control or jump OC-OL on unit terminal block for 20 minutes of high speed ventilation without defrost. After 20 minutes, unit performs extended defrost. Remove jumper if installed. Alternatively, wait 10 minutes after plugging in the unit to avoid defrost cycle.
Balancing Procedure
- Set the unit to high speed. Ensure furnace/air handler blower is ON if connected to cold air return ductwork; otherwise, leave OFF.
- Place magnehelic gauge on a level surface and adjust to zero.
- Connect tubing from gauge to exhaust air flow pressure taps and fresh airflow pressure taps. Connect tubes to appropriate high/low fittings. If gauge drops below zero, reverse connections.
- Measure both flows; adjust higher flow to equal the lower one using the balancing damper lever.
A diagram illustrates the airflow paths (Fresh Airflow, Exhaust Airflow) and the pressure tap locations for connecting the magnehelic gauge to measure HIGH and LOW flows.
- Secure both damper levers in place using their locking screw, then shut all pressure taps with small plastic plugs.
- Write required air flow information on a label near the unit for future reference (date, maximum speed air flows, name, phone, business address).
Service Parts
The full manual provides a detailed exploded view diagram of the ERV100S and ERV100SP units, showing all individual service parts with corresponding numbers. A comprehensive table lists each part by number, description, part number, and applicability to ERV100S or ERV100SP models. Examples of parts include installation brackets, recirculation channel kit, damper system kit, balancing port kit, metal port kits, blower kits, thermistors, transformer kit, capacitors, electronic board kit, door assembly, filter kit, ERV core, and core locking device kit.
Replacement Parts and Repair: To ensure proper unit function, only Broan-NuTone LLC genuine replacement parts should be used. These parts are designed to comply with certification standards and maintain safety. Using third-party parts may cause serious damage, reduce performance, and lead to premature failure. Broan-NuTone LLC recommends contacting a certified service depot for all replacement parts and repairs.
Troubleshooting
If the unit does not work properly, reset it by unplugging for one minute and replugging. If issues persist, refer to the troubleshooting table. If the unit's LED is flashing, it indicates a sensor problem.
The manual provides extensive troubleshooting tables that list common problems, possible causes, and recommended solutions. These include:
- LED Signals: Different blinking patterns (Green, Amber, Red) indicate specific errors like outdoor thermistor error, building side thermistor error, damper system error, cold side motor error, open door/magnetic switch issues, or protection mode. Solutions involve checking connections (e.g., J12, J20, J11), replacing components (damper assembly, thermistor, main PCB), or resetting the unit.
- Wall Control Errors: Problems like "E1" error code, no outdoor temperature display, or "E3" alternation on VT8W/VT7W wall controls. Causes include incompatible control, reverse/misconnected/broken wires, or defective wall control. Solutions involve checking compatibility, wiring, and replacing components.
- Unit Not Working (LED not lit): Possible causes include unit unplugged, no power to outlet, defective fuse, unplugged connectors (J10, J9, J8), defective transformer, or defective PCB. Solutions involve checking power, fuse, connections, and testing components.
- Auxiliary Control Not Working: Causes include reverse/misconnected/broken wires or defective auxiliary control. Solutions involve checking wiring and testing/replacing the control.
- Damper System Issues (ERV100SP only, AMBER error code): Problems like damper not moving at power-up (with or without clicking sound) or moving but not stopping. Causes include ice/hindering elements, bad connections (J12, J8), defective transformer, defective damper actuator, or defective PCB. Solutions involve removing obstructions, checking connections, and replacing components.
- Motor Issues: Supply motor not working (while exhaust motor works) or exhaust motor not working (while supply motor works). Causes include defective motors, capacitors, or PCB. Solutions involve swapping motors/capacitors for testing, checking connections, and replacing defective parts.
- Unit in Protection Mode: Indicated by flashing RED LED. Causes include very low outdoor temperature, wrong defrost cycle selection, defective motor/damper, choked stale air flow (unbalanced unit, clogged filters/outdoor port), or low inside temperature. Solutions involve checking defrost settings, inspecting unit components, cleaning filters/ducts, and ensuring adequate room temperature.
For detailed diagnostic steps and specific connector locations, refer to the full troubleshooting section in the manual.