Broan ERV100S and ERV100SP Energy Recovery Ventilator Installation Guide

About This Manual

This manual uses the following symbols to emphasize particular information:

NOTE: Indicates supplementary information needed to fully complete an instruction.

About These Units

Limitation

For residential (domestic) installation only. Installation work and electrical wiring must be done by qualified person(s) in accordance with all applicable codes and standards, including fire-rated construction codes and standards.

1. Typical Installations

Use the following illustrations as guidelines to help you decide on how the unit will be installed.

All units should be hung from the joists or ceiling using brackets (included with the unit). An optional chains and spring kit (part no. 61239, sold separately) can be used instead of brackets.

If required, bathroom fans and a range hood can be used to exhaust stale air. For homes with more than one level, one exhaust register at the highest level is recommended.

There are 3 installation methods: Fully ducted, Central Draw Point and Simplified Installation.

NOTE: A standard 3-prong electrical outlet has to be available within 3 feet of the unit.

1.1 For House

1.1.1 Fully Ducted System (Primarily for homes with radiant hot water or electric baseboard heating)

Stale air from registers at the highest level of the house is exhausted outdoors. Fresh air from outdoors is filtered and supplied by registers at the lowest liveable level. Homes with more than one level require at least one exhaust register at the highest level.

Visual description: Diagram shows a house with a fully ducted ventilation system. Stale air is collected from upper levels (e.g., kitchen, bathroom) and exhausted outside. Fresh air is drawn from outside, filtered, and supplied to lower living areas (e.g., living room, bedrooms).

1.1.2 Central Draw Point (Connection to a forced air system)

Stale air from registers at the highest level of the house is exhausted outdoors. Fresh air from outdoors is filtered and supplied to the return (plenum) or supply duct of the forced air unit. It is not essential that the forced air system blower runs when the unit is in operation, but it is recommended.

NOTE: Homes with multiple forced air systems should have one unit on each system.

Visual description: Diagram illustrates a house with a central draw point ventilation system connected to a forced air system. Stale air is exhausted from upper levels, and fresh air is supplied to the return plenum of the furnace.

1.1.3 Simplified Installation (Connection to a forced air system)

Stale air is exhausted outdoors. Fresh air from outdoors is filtered and supplied to the return (plenum) or supply duct of the forced air unit. To avoid cross-contamination and achieve the highest efficiencies, the forced air system blower must always be ON.

NOTE: Homes with multiple forced air systems should have one unit on each system.

Visual description: Diagram depicts a simplified ventilation system connected to a forced air system. Stale air is exhausted from the house, and fresh air is supplied to the return plenum of the furnace, similar to the central draw point but with a focus on continuous blower operation for efficiency.

1.2 For High-Rise Dwelling

1.2.1 Fully Ducted System (Primarily for homes with radiant hot water or electric baseboard heating)

Stale air from registers in bathrooms and kitchen is exhausted outdoors. Fresh air from outdoors is filtered and supplied by registers in bedrooms and living room.

Visual description: Diagram shows a multi-story building (high-rise dwelling) with a fully ducted ventilation system. Stale air is exhausted from bathrooms and kitchens, while fresh air is supplied to bedrooms and living areas.

1.2.2 Central Draw Point (Connection to a fan-coil system)

Stale air from registers in bathrooms and kitchen is exhausted outdoors. Fresh air from outdoors is filtered and supplied to the supply duct of the fan-coil system unit. It is not essential that the fan-coil system blower runs when the unit is in operation, but it is recommended.

Visual description: Diagram illustrates a high-rise dwelling with a central draw point ventilation system connected to a fan-coil system. Stale air is exhausted from wet areas, and fresh air is supplied to the fan-coil unit's supply duct.

2. Installation

2.1 Inspect the Contents of the Box

• Inspect the exterior of the unit for shipping damage (door, hinges, power cord, etc.).
• Open the unit door and inspect the interior for damage (energy recovery core, core filters, insulation, dampers, etc.).

2.2 Unit Preparation

All units are equipped with 2 ports having integrated balancing dampers (Fresh air to building and Exhaust air to outdoors ports). Before installing, ensure these 2 ports are in wide open position. If not, proceed as follows:

1. Loosen the damper lever locking screw.
2. Use the damper lever to open the damper.
3. Lock the damper in position by tightening the locking screw.

Visual description: Diagram shows a damper lever with a locking screw. An arrow indicates the direction to open the damper.

Visual description: Icon of a hand holding a screwdriver, with a crossed-out electric drill, emphasizing manual tool use.

2.3 Locating the Unit

Choose an appropriate location for the unit:

• Within an area of the house where the ambient temperature is kept between 65°F and 104°F (18°C and 40°C).
• To provide easy access to the interior of the unit for quarterly and annual maintenance.
• Close to an exterior wall to limit the length of insulated flexible duct to and from the unit.
• Away from hot chimneys and other fire hazards.
• Allow for a power source within 3 feet (standard 3-prong grounding outlet).

2.4 How to Hang the Unit

Hang the unit using 2 included brackets.

1. Mount brackets to ceiling or joists. To ease bracket location, use the template printed on the cardboard filler located in the unit box.

Visual description: Diagram shows how to align bracket notches with cardboard filler tabs. The cardboard filler is 19 inches wide. Two end screws (A) should be used per bracket to secure them to joists or ceiling; the center one is optional.

2. Bend 90° integrated hooks (2 places).
3. Hang the hooks onto the brackets.

Visual description: Two diagrams show the unit being prepared for hanging. The first shows bending integrated hooks on the unit. The second shows the unit being lifted to hang these hooks onto the previously installed brackets.

4. Clip the other side of unit onto the brackets (2 places).

Visual description: Diagram shows the unit fully clipped onto the brackets, securing it in place.

NOTE: The unit can also be hung using 4 hooks (shaded part in illustration), chains, springs and screws (kit sold separately, part no. 61239).

Visual description: Diagram shows the unit suspended by four hooks, chains, springs, and screws, illustrating an alternative hanging method.

2.5 Planning of the Ductwork

• Keep it simple. Plan for a minimum of bends and joints.
• Keep the length of insulated ducts to a minimum.
• Do not ventilate crawl spaces or cold rooms. Do not attempt to recover exhaust air from a dryer or a range hood, as this would cause clogging of filters and the recovery module.
• If the house has two floors or more, plan for at least one exhaust register on the highest lived-in level.

2.6 Installing the Ductwork and Registers

2.6.1 Fully Ducted System (As illustrated in sections 1.1.1 and 1.2.1)

Stale air exhaust ductwork:

• Install stale air exhaust registers where contaminants are produced: kitchen, living room, etc. Position registers as far from the stairway as possible to circulate air in all lived-in spaces.
• If a register is installed in the kitchen, it must be located at least 4 feet from the range.
• Install registers 6 to 12 inches from the ceiling on an interior wall OR in the ceiling.

Fresh air distribution ductwork:

• Install fresh air distribution registers in bedrooms, dining rooms, living room and basement.
• Keep fresh air registers as far as possible from stale air registers.
• Install registers in the ceiling OR 6 to 12 inches from the ceiling on an interior wall.
• If a register must be floor installed, direct the airflow up the wall.

2.6.2 Central Draw Point System (As illustrated in sections 1.1.2 and 1.2.2)

Stale air exhaust ductwork: Same as for Fully Ducted System, described in point 2.6.1.

Fresh air distribution ductwork:

There are 2 methods for connecting the unit to the furnace/air handler:

Method 1: Supply side connection (All units)

• Cut an opening into the furnace supply duct at least 18 inches from the furnace/air handler.
• Connect this opening to the Fresh air to building port of the ERV (use steel duct).
• Make sure the ERV duct forms an elbow inside the furnace/air handler ductwork.
• If desired, interlock (synchronize) the furnace/air handler blower operation (see Section 4).

Visual description: Diagram shows Method 1, Supply side connection. An ERV unit is connected via a steel duct to the supply duct of a furnace/air handler. The connection point on the furnace supply duct is at least 18 inches from the furnace/air handler. The ERV duct forms an elbow inside the furnace/air handler ductwork.

Method 2: Return side connection (exclusively for ERV100SP unit only)

• Cut an opening into the furnace return duct not less than 10 feet from the furnace/air handler (A+B).
• Connect this opening to the Fresh air to building port of the ERV.

NOTE: For Method 2, it is not essential that the furnace/air handler runs when the unit is in operation, but it is recommended. If desired, interlock (synchronize) the furnace/air handler blower operation (see Section 4).

Visual description: Diagram shows Method 2, Return side connection for ERV100SP. An ERV unit is connected to the return duct of a furnace/air handler. The connection point on the furnace return duct is at least 10 feet from the furnace/air handler.

2.6.3 Simplified Installation (As illustrated in section 1.1.3)

There are 2 methods for connecting the unit to the furnace/air handler:

Method 1: Supply-return connection (All units)

Stale air intake:

• Cut an opening into the furnace/air handler return duct not less than 10 feet from the furnace/air handler (A+B).
• Connect this opening to the Exhaust air from building port of the ERV.

Fresh air distribution:

• Same instructions as for Method 1 or Method 2, Section 2.6.2.

For Method 2 (Return-return), make sure there is a distance of at least 3 feet between the 2 connections to the furnace/air handler.

NOTE: For Method 1, it is not essential to synchronize the furnace blower operation with the unit operation, but it is recommended.

Visual description: Diagram shows Method 1, Supply-return connection. An ERV unit is connected to both the supply and return ducts of a furnace/air handler. The supply connection is at least 18 inches from the furnace, and the return connection is at least 10 feet from the furnace.

Method 2: Return-return (exclusively for ERV100SP unit)

Visual description: Diagram shows Method 2, Return-return connection for ERV100SP. An ERV unit is connected to two points on the return duct of a furnace/air handler. The total distance between the furnace/air handler and the furthest connection point is at least 10 feet, and there is a minimum 3-foot distance between the two connection points on the return duct.

2.7 Connecting the Ducts to the Unit

NOTE: All unit ports were created to be connected to ducts having a minimum of 5" diameter, but if need be, they can be connected to bigger sized ducts by using an appropriate transition (e.g.: 5" diameter to 6" diameter transition).

Insulated flexible ducts:

All units have both Fresh air to building and Exhaust air to outdoors ports equipped with integrated balancing damper. Prior to installing the insulated flexible ducts, ensure these both ports have their dampers set to wide open position (See Section 2.2).

Use the following procedure for connecting the insulated flexible ducts to the port of the unit (Exhaust air to outdoors and Fresh air from outdoors ports):

1. Pull back the insulation to expose the flexible duct.
2. Attach the flexible duct to the port using a tie wrap.
3. Pull the insulation over the joint and tuck it between the inner and outer rings of the double collar, then pull down the vapor barrier (shaded part in illustrations below) over the insulation and tuck it between the inner and outer rings.
4. Apply duct tape to the joint (outer ring and vapor barrier) making an airtight seal. Avoid compressing the insulation when pulling the tape tightly around the joint. Compressed insulation loses its R value and causes water dripping due to condensation on the exterior surface of the duct.

Visual description: A series of four diagrams illustrating the steps for connecting insulated flexible ducts to the unit's port. 1) Insulation is pulled back to expose the flexible duct. 2) The flexible duct is attached to the port with a tie wrap. 3) Insulation is pulled over the joint and tucked between the double collar rings, and the vapor barrier is pulled down. 4) Duct tape is applied to seal the joint, ensuring an airtight connection.

Rigid ducts:

Use a small length (6" length) of flexible duct to connect the rigid duct to the ports in order to avoid vibration transmissions. Use tie-wraps to perform connections, then seal with duct tape.

2.8 Installing 2 Exterior Hoods

Choose an appropriate location to install the exterior hoods:

• There must be a minimum distance of 6' between the hoods to avoid cross-contamination.
• There must be a minimum distance of 18" from the ground.

Refer to figure below for connecting insulated ducts to the exterior hoods. An "Anti-gust intake hood" should be installed in regions where a lot of snow is expected to fall.

Visual description: Diagram shows the recommended placement and spacing for exterior hoods. An exhaust hood and an intake hood are shown on an exterior wall. There must be a minimum of 6 feet horizontally between the hoods and a minimum of 18 inches vertically from the ground. The diagram also shows an optional duct location and indicates where tape and duct ties should be used for connections.

Visual description: A detailed diagram showing the connection of an insulated flexible duct to an exterior hood, secured with tape and a duct tie.

2.9 Installing Tandem® Transition Kit

If desired, a Tandem transition kit can be used instead of 2 exterior hoods.

The joist opening needed to install the Tandem® transition must be 9¾" minimum. The maximum height of the Tandem transition is 8¾".

To connect the insulated flexible ducts to the Tandem transition (Exhaust air to outdoors and Fresh air from outdoors), follow the instructions included with the Tandem transition kit (part no. TYIK1).

*Patented.

Visual description: Diagram shows a Tandem transition kit, which is a single unit designed to replace two separate exterior hoods, typically installed within a joist space. It has two ports for connecting insulated flexible ducts.

3. Controls

The ERV100SP unit is equipped with an integrated defrost control while the ERV100S unit has an integrated control. In both cases, these electronic devices are located under the unit, in front of the electrical compartment.

Visual description: Diagram shows a close-up of the control panel on the unit, highlighting the LED (1) and push button (2) for control and defrost settings.

Plug the unit.

3.1 Booting Sequence

The unit booting sequence is similar to a personal computer boot sequence. Each time the unit is plugged after being unplugged, or after a power failure, the unit will perform a booting sequence before starting to operate.

If a problem occurs during the unit operation, or if the unit turns in Protection Mode, its LED (1) will blink. The color and the blinking pattern depend on the type of error detected, or if the unit is in Protection Mode. Refer to the sticker on the unit and Section 9 Troubleshooting on page 22 for further details.

3.2 ERV100SP Unit Integrated Defrost Control

After the booting sequence is done, the LED (1) will light and stay lit to show in which defrost cycle the unit is set. Use the push button (2) to change the defrost cycle of the unit.

NOTE: There is a 15-minute delay for the new defrost cycle choice to be kept in memory; if a power failure occurs during this time delay, when the power returns, the unit resumes to its previous setting.

According to your needs, there are 3 defrost cycles available:

• STANDARD: This is the factory set defrost cycle. Being the most energy recovery efficient defrost cycle available on this unit, STANDARD is used to achieve HVI and ENERGY STAR® listed performance. When needed, the unit will perform defrost cycle on high speed.
• PLUS: This mode has been created for people who live in cold regions (outdoor temperature -17°F and lower). This setting makes the unit perform defrost cycle on high speed for a longer period of time.
• DISCRETION: When needed, the defrost cycle will be performed on the same speed as the unit ventilation speed. This means that if the unit is set on high speed, the defrost cycle will be done on high speed, but if the unit is set on low speed, the defrost cycle will be done on low speed.

3.3 ERV100S Unit Integrated Control

Use the push button (2) to control the unit. The LED (1) will then show which mode the unit is in.

NOTE: When using main control, the integrated control must be turned off.

3.4 Setting Extended Defrost for ERV100S Unit

These units are factory set to normal defrost. In cold regions (outdoor temperature -17°F and lower), it may be necessary to set up extended defrost. During the first 3 seconds of booting sequence, the integrated control LED shows the current defrost mode.

Within the first 3 seconds of booting sequence, press the push button until the LED starts to blink, then release the push button; the LED will blink AMBER 5 times. After that, the LED will shut off, then turn RED (the unit returns in its booting sequence).

3.5 Electrical Connection to Wall Controls

The ERV100SP unit must be controlled by a main control. For more convenience, the ERV100S unit can also be controlled using an optional main control.

NOTES:

1. The integrated control must be turned OFF on ERV100S unit to use an optional main control.
2. If an optional auxiliary control is used, if activated, this auxiliary control will override the optional main control operation.

Open the unit door. Insert the terminal connector (included in the installation kit) under the unit, on the electrical compartment front face. Use this terminal connector to perform the electrical connection for main and optional wall controls, then secure the cable(s) with a tie wrap.

Visual description: Diagram shows the internal electrical compartment of the unit with a terminal connector being inserted. A tie wrap is used to secure the cable.

Check if all wires are correctly inserted in their corresponding holes in the terminal block. (A wire is correctly inserted when its orange receptacle is lower than another one without wire. On illustration, wire A is correctly inserted, but not wire B.) Splice back the end of the cable to access the 4 wires. Strip the end of each wire. Connect each wire to its corresponding terminal: YELLOW wire to "Y", RED wire to "R", GREEN wire to "G" and BLACK wire to "B". Connect the auxiliary control cable, if installed (not shown).

Visual description: Diagram shows a terminal block with multiple wire connections. It highlights how to check if wires are correctly inserted by observing the orange receptacles. Wire A is shown correctly inserted, while wire B is not.

3.5.1 Electrical Connection to VT8W Main Wall Control (ERV100SP Unit Only)

Visual description: Diagram shows the wiring connections for the VT8W main wall control to the unit's terminal block, indicating connections for NC, NO, C, I, OC, OL, Y, R, G, B terminals.

3.5.2 Electrical Connection to VT7W Main Wall Control (All Units)

Visual description: Diagram shows the wiring connections for the VT7W main wall control to the unit's terminal block, indicating connections for NC, NO, C, I, OC, OL, Y, R, G, B terminals.

3.5.3 Electrical Connection to VT4W Main Wall Control (All Units)

Visual description: Diagram shows the wiring connections for the VT4W main wall control to the unit's terminal block, indicating connections for NC, NO, C, I, OC, OL, Y, R, G, B terminals, with a rear view of the VT4W control showing Y, G, B connections.

3.5.4 Electrical Connection to VT6W Main Wall Control (All Units)

Visual description: Diagram shows the wiring connections for the VT6W main wall control to the unit's terminal block, indicating connections for NC, NO, C, I, OC, OL, Y, R, G, B terminals, with an illustration of the Broan VT6W control.

3.5.5 Electrical Connection to Optional Auxiliary Wall Controls (59W: All Units, VB60W: ERV100SP Unit Only and VB20W: ERV100S Unit Only)

NOTE: If an optional auxiliary wall control is activated, this control will override the main wall control commands.

Visual description: Diagram shows the wiring connections for optional auxiliary wall controls (59W, VB60W, or VB20W) to the unit's terminal block, indicating connections for NC, NO, C, I, OC, OL, Y, R, G, B terminals.

Once the wall control(s) connections have been made and checked, close the unit door.

NOTE: For information about the operation of the wall controls, refer to the Main and auxiliary wall controls user guide.

4. Electrical Connection to the Furnace

For a furnace connected to a cooling system:

On some older thermostats, energizing the “R” and “G” terminals at the furnace has the effect of energizing "Y" at the thermostat and thereby turning on the cooling system. If you identify this type of thermostat, you must use the ALTERNATE FURNACE INTERLOCK WIRING.

Visual description: Two wiring diagrams illustrate furnace interlock connections. The "Standard Furnace Interlock Wiring" shows a 24-volt furnace terminal block connected to a unit terminal connector, with options for two-wire heating only or four-wire cooling system. The "Alternate Furnace Interlock Wiring" provides an alternative connection for furnaces with cooling systems, showing wiring nuts for NO and NC connections to the unit terminal connector. Both diagrams show connections to thermostat terminals.

5. Speed Selection

The factory set high speed value for these units is 100 CFM, and low speed value is approximately 50 CFM. To change these values, the transformer wire taps connections must be changed.

Visual description: A detailed wiring diagram of the unit's electronic assembly, focusing on the transformer (T1) and its connections for speed selection. It shows various voltage taps (120V, 103V, 76V, 64V, 55V, 9.5V) and their corresponding wire colors (BK, BL, BN, GY, R). The diagram highlights the "LOW SPEED" and "HIGH SPEED" connections, indicating how different wire tap combinations (e.g., R-R for 50 CFM, BL-BL for 100 CFM) determine the fan speed. Various connectors (J5, J6, J7, J8, J9, J10, J11, J12, J13, J14, J20) and components like capacitors (C1, C2), motors (M1, M2, M3), and fuses (F1) are also depicted within the electronic assembly. A color code table for wires is included.

6. Wiring Diagram

NOTES:

1. Use specified UL listed/CSA Certified line fuse.
2. If any of the original wire, as supplied, must be replaced, use the same equivalent wire.
3. Field wiring must comply with applicable codes, ordinances and regulations.
4. Remote controls (class 2 circuit) available, see instruction manual.
5. Furnace fan circuit must be class 2 circuit only.

Visual description: A comprehensive wiring diagram for the Broan ERV unit, showing both the physical wiring connections and a simplified logic diagram. Key components include the main power input (LINE, NEUTRAL), exhaust fan motor (M1), supply fan motor (M2), damper motor (M3), transformer (T1), capacitors (C1, C2), various connectors (J-series), and control elements like the door interlock switch (S1) and thermistors (R1, R2). The logic diagram illustrates the control flow between the CPU and various relays (K1-K5) and motors. The diagram also details connections for remote controls, optional damper systems, and furnace blower interlock. Color codes for wires are provided. This diagram is essential for electrical troubleshooting and connections.

7. Balancing the Unit

7.1 What You Need to Balance the Unit

• A magnehelic gauge capable of measuring 0 to 0.5 inch of water (0 to 125 Pa) and 2 plastic tubes.
• The balancing chart located on the unit door.

Visual description: Diagram shows a magnehelic gauge with two ports for connecting plastic tubes, used for measuring air pressure.

7.2 Preliminary Stages to Balance the Unit

• Seal all the unit ductwork with tape. Close all windows and doors.
• Turn off all exhaust devices such as range hood, dryer and bathroom fans.
• Make sure the integrated balancing dampers are fully open. Both are located on the Exhaust air to outside port and on Fresh air from outside port (see step 2.2).
• Make sure all filters are clean (if it is not the first time you balance the unit).

Visual description: Diagram shows the unit with its integrated balancing dampers, indicating their location on the exhaust air to outside port and fresh air from outside port.

Make sure the unit is not running in defrost mode while balancing.

When the outdoor temperature is below 32°F (0°C), the defrost mode can be activated. During defrost cycle, it is not possible to balance the unit since there is no flow in one direction.

To cancel the defrost cycle, use the auxiliary control or jump OC-OL on unit terminal block; this will set the unit on high speed ventilation without defrost for the next 20 minutes. Once the 20 minutes of high speed ventilation is completed, the unit will perform an extended defrost. If installed, do not forget to remove the jumper between OL and OC on terminal block.

Another way to avoid the defrost cycle is to wait 10 minutes after plugging the unit in; this procedure ensures that the unit is not in a defrost cycle.

NOTE: Both units start in defrost mode within the first minute of operation.

7.3 Balancing Procedure

1. Set the unit to high speed.

Make sure that the furnace/air handler blower is ON if the installation is in any way connected to the ductwork of the cold air return. If not, leave furnace/air handler blower OFF.

2. Place the magnehelic gauge on a level surface and adjust it to zero.
3. Connect tubing from gauge to exhaust air flow pressure taps and fresh airflow pressure taps. Be sure to connect the tubes to their appropriate high/low fittings. If the gauge drops below zero, reverse the tubing connections.
4. Measure both flows; adjust higher flow to equal the lower one, using balancing damper lever.

Visual description: Diagram shows the airflow paths within the unit (Fresh Airflow, Exhaust Airflow) and indicates the pressure taps for connecting the magnehelic gauge to measure high and low airflow.

Visual description: Icon of a hand holding a screwdriver, with a crossed-out electric drill, emphasizing manual tool use.

Visual description: Diagram shows a damper lever with an arrow indicating the correct direction to turn it (away from the stopper) to avoid freezing. Another diagram shows a damper lever incorrectly positioned, which could lead to freezing.

5. Secure both damper levers in place using their locking screw, then shut all the pressure taps with the small plastic plugs included in the hardware kit.
6. Write the required air flow information on a label and stick it near the unit for future reference (date, maximum speed air flows, your name, phone number and business address).

NOTE: The unit is considered balanced even if there is a difference of ±10 cfm between the two air flows.

8. Service Parts

Visual description: An exploded view diagram of the Broan ERV unit, showing all its individual components disassembled and numbered for identification. Key parts include the main casing, brackets, motors, core, filters, and various internal assemblies.

* NOT SHOWN.

Replacement Parts and Repair

To ensure your ventilation unit remains in good working condition, use only Broan-NuTone LLC genuine replacement parts. These parts are specially designed for each unit and are manufactured to comply with applicable certification standards and maintain a high standard of safety. Any third-party replacement part used may cause serious damage and drastically reduce the performance level of the unit, which will result in premature failing. Broan-NuTone LLC recommends contacting a Broan-NuTone LLC certified service depot for all replacement parts and repairs.

9. Troubleshooting

If the unit does not work properly, reset the unit by unplugging it for one minute and then replugging it. If it still not working properly, refer to the tables below.

If the LED of the unit is flashing, this means the unit sensors have detected a problem. Refer to the table below to know where the problem occurs on the unit.

The manual also provides a detailed troubleshooting table for various problems, their possible causes, and recommended solutions. These include issues related to:

• Wall control errors: Such as error code E1, no outdoor temperature display, or alternating displays (E3). Solutions involve checking compatibility, wire connections, and replacing controls.
• Main wall control not working: This covers scenarios where the integrated control is set to low/high speed, unit incompatibility, reverse/misconnected/broken wires, or a defective wall control. Solutions include checking settings, connections, and replacing components.
• Unit not powering up (LED not lit): Possible causes are the unit being unplugged, no power to the outlet, a defective fuse, unplugged connectors (J10, J9, J8), a defective transformer, or a defective PCB. Solutions involve checking power, fuse, connections, and testing components.
• Auxiliary control not working: Similar to main control issues, this involves checking wire connections (reverse, misconnected, broken) and testing/replacing the auxiliary control.
• Damper system issues (ERV100SP only, AMBER error code): Problems include ice/hindering elements, unconnected/bad J12 contact, wrong J8 connection, defective transformer, or a defective damper actuator. Solutions involve removing obstructions, checking connections, and replacing parts. If the damper moves but doesn't stop, check J12, damper PCB, or main PCB.
• Motor issues (supply or exhaust): If a motor is not working, possible causes include a defective motor, capacitor, or PCB. Troubleshooting involves swapping motor connections, checking capacitor validity, and inspecting transformer/PCB.
• Unit in protection mode error (RED LED flashes): This can be due to wrong defrost cycle selection, defective motor/damper, choked stale airflow (unbalanced unit, clogged filters/ports), or low inside temperature. Solutions involve checking defrost settings, inspecting the unit for obstructions, cleaning filters, balancing the unit, and ensuring adequate room temperature.