Summit Series Cable Railing

Project Overview

Post Mounting Screw Recommendations

*3-1/2" of structural blocking is required. It is the installer's responsibility to ensure there is adequate blocking to securely anchor your posts.

**Concrete should be 4" thick minimum (6" is preferred), rated at 3500 PSI or higher, and free of any cracks in the area where posts will be mounted.

Posts MUST be anchored to your project's structural frame (joist, blocking, etc). Blocking should have enough depth that none of the post mounting screw length extends past the bottom. If you do not have interior blocking, consult a local builder for a custom solution to secure against a 200 lb concentrated load at the top of the post.

Diagram: Post anchored to blocking with screws.

Post Spacing Guidelines

1. Level Post Spacing 8ft. MAX
   Posts should be spaced no further than 96 inches apart on center for 96-inch level panels (48 inches for 48-inch panels).
2. Stair Post Spacing 7.5ft. MAX
   Stair posts should be spaced no further than 90 inches apart from the inside post faces as measured along the rail. Longer spans will need additional stair posts and stair panels.
   Stair Pitch Requirements: Cable Bullet recommends a stair pitch of 30–38°. Pitches outside of this range will require rail modification in order to install.
3. Support Bars Every 48in.
   Add Support Bars on any section greater than 48 inches. Aluminum rails must be supported to meet code requirements. Support Bars are included in stair panels and 96-inch level panels.

Diagram: Level panels showing 96 inches MAX on center between posts, indicating an end post.

Order of Installation

The installation process is divided into three main stages:

1. Level Posts & Rails (Page 5)
2. Stair Posts & Rails (Page 8)
3. Cable Infill & Support Bars (Page 15)

PLEASE NOTE: All Cable Bullet recommendations and rail components are designed to comply with International Residential Code (IRC). Building codes may vary, and it is the installer's responsibility to verify that the installed system complies with all applicable state and local building codes.

For more information on Cable Bullet and building code standards, visit: www.cablebullet.com/pages/terms-conditions

CAUTION: Wear eye protection during installation.

Diagram: A railing system on stairs showing numbered steps for installation, including posts, rails, and support bars.

Diagram: A level railing section indicating rail support every 48 inches and a maximum span of 48 inches without a support bar, showing an end post and a 2-way post.

Post Types

Understanding the different post types is crucial for proper installation:

• END POSTS: Mortised on one side, used on level surfaces where a level span of rail ends. Also used at the landing of a stair run if the rail continues into a level run.
• 2-WAY POSTS: Mortised on opposite sides to continue rail on a level run.
• CORNER POSTS: Mortised on adjacent sides to turn rail on a level run at a 90° corner.
• STAIR POSTS: Blank (un-mortised), designed to be cut down for flexibility in stair applications. Rails attach to the faces of Stair Posts using hidden, internal brackets.
• SUPPORT BARS: Required for any section (level or stair) longer than 48 inches to meet code requirements. Included in stair panels and 96-inch level panels.

Diagram: Shows various post types and their mortise configurations for different railing scenarios.

Note: A blank Stair Post is used when the rail does not continue into a level run, as stair rails attach to post faces without needing mortises. An End Post is used at a 90° corner if the stair rail attaches to post faces and does not require a mortise.

Level Posts & Rails Installation

Tools Required:

• Power drill
• Miter saw with a non-ferrous metal cutting blade
• 3/16 x 12" drill bit
• #25 drill bit
• 3/32 Allen wrench
• 3/16 Allen wrench
• 3/32 x 6" power bit
• T30 x 6" power bit
• Magnetic Multi-Bit Screwdriver
• T-Handle Tap Wrench
• 10-32 taper tap
• Tape measure
• Speed square
• Level
• ChalkShot (optional)
• Fine-point pencil
• Chalk line

Supplies Required:

• Summit Series Terminal Posts
• Summit Series Level Panels
• Post Mounting Screws (see page 2)
• Post Leveling Plates (optional)
• Painter's tape

*Available at cablebullet.com

1. Determine Post Placement
   Roughly lay out post locations according to your project layout and spacing guidelines. Outline exact placement using painter's tape or a fine-point pencil.

   ? PRO TIP: Use a chalk line and speed square to mark straight, right-angle lines for precise post placement, ensuring alignment and squareness.

2. Mark Post Location
   With the first post in its final position, mark the location of each pilot hole in the post base.

   ? PRO TIP: Use ChalkShot for easy, accurate pilot hole marking.

3. Drill Pilot Holes
   Set the post aside and drill four pilot holes using the 3/16 x 12" drill bit. Drill deep enough for post mounting screws.

   ⚠️ WARNING: It is the installer's responsibility to ensure there is adequate blocking to securely anchor your posts.

   At this time, place your Post Leveling Plates, matching the plate holes with your pilot holes.

4. Set Mounting Screws
   Return the post to its location, ensuring mortises are correctly positioned. Loosely set each post mounting screw using the T30 bit. Do not fully tighten yet.
5. Plumb Post
   Use a 3/16" Allen wrench and a level to advance the built-in leveling screws to plumb your post. Once plumb, tighten each post mounting screw and set the post base cover plate.

   Repeat steps 2 through 5 for each level post, ensuring posts are in line and square.

   If your section is 96 inches (or 48 inches for 48-inch panels), rails are already cut to length; skip to step 10. For custom lengths, proceed to step 6.

6. Prepare Rails
   Lay two lengths of rail alongside posts, ensuring tensioning holes face up. Set screw holes (smaller) should face opposite directions.
7. Center Cable Holes
   Adjust rails so the two outermost tensioning holes (larger) on each rail are equidistant from the post faces.

   ? PRO TIP: For sections longer than 48 inches, ensure an odd number of tensioning holes are between posts to center the Support Bar.

8. Mark Inside Rail Length
   Once rails are positioned, mark the ends where they intersect the inside post faces.

   ? PRO TIP: Use painter's tape to mark measurements for easy reference.

9. Cut Rails
   Measure and mark each rail end 1/4" past the mark from step 8. Cut rails at this new mark using a miter saw with a non-ferrous metal cutting blade.
10. Insert Rail Ends
    Slide the top rail into place on the posts until the marks from step 8 align with the post faces.
11. Secure Rail
    Locate the set screw hole on the post. Use the #25 drill bit to drill through one wall of the rail. Drive in a 10-32 set screw by hand using the 3/32" Allen wrench or manual bit driver. Repeat for the other end of the top rail.

    ? PRO TIP: If treading is marred during drilling, re-tap the set screw hole using the #10-32 taper tap.

    Repeat steps 10 and 11 on the bottom rail.

Stair Posts & Rails Installation

Tools Required:

• Power drill
• Right-angle drill (recommended)
• Miter saw with a non-ferrous metal cutting blade
• 3/16 x 12" drill bit
• 5/32 x 2-1/16" drill bit
• 3/32 Allen wrench
• 1/8 Allen wrench
• 5/32 Allen wrench
• 3/16 Allen wrench
• 3/32 x 6" power bit
• T20 x 3-1/2" power bit
• T30 x 6" power bit
• Magnetic Multi-Bit Screwdriver
• T-Handle Tap Wrench
• 10-24 taper tap
• Stair Template
• Tape measure
• Level
• Spring-loaded center punch (optional)
• 2-4 rubber clamps (small profile and high poundage rating are best)
• ChalkShot (optional)
• Fine-point pencil

Supplies Required:

• Summit Series Stair Posts
• Summit Series Stair Panels
• Support Bar Kits (included with stair panels)
• Stair Rail Brackets (included with stair panels)
• Post Mounting Screws (see page 2)
• Post Leveling Plates (optional)
• Spacer shims (see page 9)
• Painter's tape
• Canned air
• Machine oil (optional)

*Available at cablebullet.com

Cable Bullet stair posts are designed to be cut down for flexibility in stair layouts. For multiple stair posts, complete sections one at a time, starting from the top. Repeat the process for each subsequent stair section, beginning at step 2.

1. Determine Post Placement
   With the top post secured on the deck, roughly lay out the location of all Stair Posts according to spacing guidelines. Outline exact placement with painter's tape or a fine-point pencil. Set aside all Stair Posts except the uppermost.
2. Mark Post Location
   With the uppermost Stair Post in its determined position, mark the location of each pilot hole in the post base.

   ? PRO TIP: Use ChalkShot for easy, accurate pilot hole marking.

3. Orient Bottom Rail
   Place a stick of rail on two 1/2" shims on the stair nosing. Clamp the rail in place.

   *Shim spacing between the bottom rail and stair nosing can be adjusted between 1/4" and 3/4" if needed.

   ⚠️ CAUTION: International Residential Code (IRC) dictates that the triangular gap formed by the bottom rail, stair riser, and stair tread must not allow a 6-inch sphere to pass through.

4. Find Stair Post Height
   Measure from the top of the rail to the top of your upper post on the deck surface. For 42-inch posts on a level surface, mark your upper post 37.5" from the mounting surface. Measure from the top of your rail to this new mark to find the Stair Post height. Transfer this measurement to the downhill side of your Stair Post.

   Diagram: Shows measurements for determining stair post height relative to the rail and deck surface.

5. Cut & Cap Stair Post
   Unclamp the rail, remove the bottom post from the stair tread, and cut it to size using a miter saw with a non-ferrous metal cutting blade. Install the post top cap.
6. Drill Pilot Holes
   Before replacing the post on the stair tread, drill four pilot holes using the 3/16 x 12" drill bit. Drill deep enough for mounting screws.

   ⚠️ WARNING: It is the installer's responsibility to ensure there is adequate blocking to securely anchor your posts.

   At this time, place your Post Leveling Plates matching the plate holes with your pilot holes.

7. Set Mounting Screws
   Return the post to its location and loosely set each post mounting screw using the T30 bit. Do not fully tighten yet.
8. Plumb Post
   Use a 3/16" Allen wrench and a level to advance the built-in leveling screws to plumb your post. Once plumb, tighten each post mounting screw and set the post base cover plate.
9. Center Cable Holes
   Place the rail back on your shims, ensuring set screw holes (smaller) face downhill. Loosely clamp in place. Adjust the rail until the two outermost tensioning holes (larger) are equidistant from the post faces.

   ? PRO TIP: For sections longer than 48 inches, ensure an odd number of tensioning holes are between posts to center the Support Bar.

10. Mark Rail Length
    Mark the side of the rail where it intersects the inside post face on each end.
11. Mark Bracket Holes
    Place the Stair Template against the post face with the long end pointing in the direction of cable run. Wedge the dog leg against the opposite side of the rail from the cable holes (under for bottom rail, over for top rail). Mark template holes with a fine-point pencil or spring-loaded center punch. Repeat on the other post.
12. Cut Rails
    Remove the rail and cut it at the marks made in step 10.
13. Drill Bracket Holes
    Drill pilot holes in your posts using the 5/32" drill bit.

    ⚠️ CAUTION: It is not advised to drill pilot holes with the template in place.

    ? PRO TIP: If space is limited at the base of your bottom post, use a right-angle drill.

14. Tap Bracket Holes
    Tap both pilot holes using the 10-24 tap.

    ? PRO TIP: Use machine oil, blow out each hole with canned air, and tap a second time for a cleaner tap.

15. Attach Brackets
    With the U-shaped channel facing the direction of the cables, attach each Stair Rail Bracket using 10-24 x 3/4" screws and a 5/32" Allen wrench.

    Use painter's tape to mark the side of the posts according to the etched groove on the Stair Rail Bracket for drilling to attach the rail.

    PLEASE NOTE: Stair Rail Brackets accommodate a stair pitch of 30–38°. If your pitch is outside these parameters, the handrail may need to be routed out underneath for installation.

16. Attach Guide Cables
    Install one length of cable into each of the two outermost tensioning holes on the rail. Insert a crimped end and secure by hand using a set screw and the 3/32" Allen wrench or manual bit driver. Drive the set screw until flush with the rail.

    ⚠️ WARNING: Do not use power tools to drive set screws; they can strip and/or seize in the tensioning channel.

17. Install Rail
    Slide your rail over the Stair Rail Brackets.
18. Secure Rail
    If your section is longer than 48 inches and step 17 is complete for the top rail, install the Support Bar. Starting at the bottom, insert one Support Bar Pin into the center tensioning (larger) hole on the bottom rail. The cutout should be flush against the rail and opposite the set screw (smaller) hole. Secure one end of the Support Bar to the pin using the 1/8" Allen wrench and a 1/4-20 set screw. Repeat to attach the top of the Support Bar to the top rail.

    Using the 5/32" drill bit, drill 1/2" deep through the side of the rail into the Stair Rail Bracket. Your drilling location should be level with the marking from step 15 and 1/4" away from the post face. Drive in an 8-32 x 1/2" screw by hand using the T20 manual bit driver.

    ? PRO TIP: Mark 1/2" depth on your drill bit using painter's tape for consistency.

    Repeat step 18 at the other bracket location on this side of the rail before switching to the other side. Each rail section should be secured with four screws—two per bracket.

19. Orient Top Rail
    Place another stick of rail next to the installed bottom rail, ensuring set screw holes (smaller) face uphill (opposite the bottom rail). Secure the other ends of the two cables from step 16 into appropriate tensioning holes on the top rail until set screws are flush with the top rail.
20. Place Top Rail
    Flip and lift the top rail until cables are taut to determine rail height. Loosely clamp in place. Adjust the rail until the two outermost tensioning holes (larger) are equidistant from the post faces. Cables should run parallel to the posts.
    

    Repeat steps 10 through 18 for the top rail. Remove installed cables for step 12.

Cable Infill & Support Bars

Tools Required:

• 3/32 Allen wrench
• 1/8 Allen wrench
• 3/32 x 6" power bit
• Magnetic Multi-Bit Screwdriver
• T-Handle Tap Wrench
• 10-32 taper tap

Supplies Required:

• Pre-crimped cable (included with panels)
• Support Bar Kits (if applicable)

*Available at cablebullet.com

1. Attach Top Cable Ends
   Insert pre-crimped cable ends into the tensioning holes (larger) on the underside of your top rail. Use the 3/32" Allen wrench or manual bit driver to secure cables by driving in set screws until flush with the rail face.

   ? PRO TIP: If you have trouble driving a set screw, run the 10-32 tap through the set screw hole to clear the threads.

2. Install Support Bars (If Applicable)
   Starting at the bottom, insert one Support Bar Pin into the center tensioning (larger) hole on your bottom rail. The cutout should be flush against the rail and opposite the set screw (smaller) hole. Secure one end of the Support Bar to the pin using the 1/8" Allen wrench and a 1/4-20 set screw. Repeat to attach the top of your Support Bar to the top rail.

   If your section is longer than 48 inches, skip the center tensioning hole as this is where your Support Bar will go.

   ⚠️ WARNING: Do not use power tools to drive set screws; they can strip and/or seize in the tensioning channel.

3. Attach Bottom Cable Ends
   Use the 3/32" Allen wrench or manual bit driver to install each free cable end into the corresponding hole on the bottom rail. Drive in set screws until flush with the rail face.
4. Tension Cables
   Tension each cable by hand using the 3/32" Allen wrench or manual bit driver. Tension cables from the innermost in an unsupported span outward. Cables can be re-tensioned over time as the project settles.

   HOW TIGHT IS TIGHT ENOUGH? A properly tensioned cable will deflect approximately 1/4" per foot under a 50 lb load. It should feel more like a bass guitar string than a piano wire.

   Diagram: Shows a railing with tensioned cables, with numbered indicators for tensioning order.

Project Notes

Use the space below for any project-specific notes or observations.

(Blank lines for notes)