Cable Infill for Sleeved Posts

Tools

• Cable Cutter
• Cable Crimper
• 5/8" Forstner bit
• 9/16" brad point drill bit
• 1/2" drill bit (Deluxe Post Hole Covers only)
• 3/32" drill bit (Post Hole Covers only)
• 3/16 x 12" drill bit
• Cable Bullet Driver
• 3/32" Allen wrench
• 3/32 x 6" power bit
• T10 power bit (Post Hole Covers only)
• Power drill
• Socket wrench with a 7/16" socket (optional)
• Tape measure
• Drill Guides (optional)

Supplies

• Cable Tensioners for Vinyl or Composite Sleeved Posts
• 5/32" Stainless Steel Cable
• Boeshield T-9®
• 3/4" Painter's tape (optional)
• Shims (optional)
• Optional Hardware: Post Hole Covers, Deluxe Post Hole Covers, Cable Spacer Bars

*Available at cablebullet.com

PLEASE NOTE: All Cable Bullet recommendations and rail components are designed to comply with International Residential Code (IRC). Building codes may vary, and it is the installer's responsibility to verify that the installed system complies with all applicable state and local building codes. For more information on Cable Bullet and building code standards visit: www.cablebullet.com/pages/terms-conditions

CAUTION: Wear eye protection during installation. ?️

Project Guidelines

1. Cable tensioning posts can be spaced up to 20 feet apart. To maintain optimal tension, add additional tensioning posts for runs longer than 20 feet.
2. Add Cable Spacer Bars or pass-through posts (line posts) every 42 inches to minimize cable deflection under load.
3. Space your cables 3 inches apart to ensure you don't exceed a 4-inch gap between cable runs even with cable deflection.
4. Support your top rail as needed with structural posts. Consult your builder for post spacing and top rail design on your project.

IMPORTANT: Your posts and top rail must be able to support the combined tension of the cable runs, 150-200 pounds each.

Diagram Description: A visual representation of a fence section with posts. The diagram indicates that tensioners should be placed every 20 feet and cables should be spaced 3 inches apart. It also shows a 'tensioning post' and a 'line post' concept.

1. Measure and Mark Posts

Hardware should be centered on your post and spaced at 3-inch intervals. Find the midline of your post and make marks starting 3 inches down from the underside of your handrail. Mark all pass-through and tensioning posts, as this is where you will install tensioners and drill pass-through holes.

Diagram Description: A vertical post is shown with horizontal lines indicating measurement points. Marks are made at 3-inch intervals, starting 3 inches from the underside of the top railing. These marks are for positioning hardware and drilling holes.

Stair Posts

Tensioner installation is the same on angled runs (stairs) as on level runs. Make your marks starting 3 inches below the underside of your handrail. Your hardware will be offset on 2-way or pass-through posts.

PRO TIP: If possible, install your tensioners and cables before installing your handrail to allow room for your drill.

CAUTION: International Residential Code (IRC) dictates that no gap in your handrail (including between cables under load) may allow a 4-inch sphere to pass through.

PRO TIP: A Drill Guide and Template for Level Runs can simplify this step, as it is pre-set with 3-inch spacing for both tensioner and pass-through holes. Refer to the Drill Guide and Template for Level Runs guide for detailed instructions.

2. Drill Tensioner Holes

Use the Forstner bit to drill a 5/8" hole through the post sleeve only to protect it from forces applied by the tensioner.

WARNING: Do not drill a 5/8" (oversized) hole for posts where Post Hole Covers or Deluxe Post Hole Covers will be installed.

Diagram Description: Diagrams illustrate drilling a 5/8 inch hole through the post sleeve for Standard, XL, and XXL post types.

Drilling Pilot Holes

Use a 9/16" brad point bit to drill a level pilot hole through the 5/8" sleeve hole and into the center column of your post. The appropriate drill depth will vary based on the post, sleeve, and tensioner sizes. Drill deep enough for at least 3/4" of the tensioner threading to engage in your center wood post. Tensioner pilot holes on angled (stair) runs will also be drilled level.

Diagram Description: Diagrams show pilot holes being drilled into the center wood post, indicating sufficient depth for the tensioner's threading.

CAUTION: If there is a gap between the sleeve and post, add shims where the tensioners will be installed to avoid accidentally compressing the sleeve during installation.

3. Drilling Pass-Through Holes

Use the 3/16 x 12" drill bit to drill your cable pass-through holes. Thicker posts and columns will need to be drilled from both sides to maintain a level hole.

Diagram Description: Diagrams show drilling pass-through holes. For standard posts, a single hole is drilled. For thicker posts, holes are shown drilled from both sides.

PRO TIP: Use the Pivot-Head Drill Guide to drill angled pass-through holes on stair posts. Refer to the Pivot-Head Drill Guide for Stair Runs guide for instructions.

4. Install Tensioners

Slide a steel ring over your tensioner so the rubber O-rings fit into the recessed side of the steel ring. Use a drill with a 1/2" chuck and a Bullet Driver to drive each tensioner and fitted steel cover ring into the post. Use a slow, steady speed with controlled torque (1st gear with a mid-high clutch setting) to avoid damaging the internal tensioning mechanism. Tensioners should thread into the wood post, not the post sleeve. The rubber O-ring allows contact between the tensioner and sleeve without applying excessive pressure.

Diagram Description: Diagram illustrating the installation of tensioners. It shows a steel ring with rubber O-rings fitting onto the tensioner body, which is then driven into the post.

WARNING: Do not use an impact driver to install tensioners. ❌

A socket wrench with a 7/16" socket can be used to fine-tune the orientation of the tensioner for accessibility and/or aesthetics.

5. Install Post Hole Covers

Standard Post Hole Covers

Center your Post Hole Cover over the hole. You may need to drill a 3/32" pilot hole for the screw.

PRO TIP: Use the 3/16" drill bit or a spare piece of cable to "hang" the post hole cover while you attach it.

Attach the Post Hole Cover using the included screw and a manual T10 driver.

WARNING: Overdriving the screw will angle the Post Hole Cover. Drive screws just enough to keep it flush with the post.

Diagram Description: Diagrams show how to center and attach a standard post hole cover over a drilled hole.

Deluxe Post Hole Covers

Drill a 1/2" pilot hole 1/2" deep centered on your 3/16" pass-through hole.

Install the Deluxe Post Hole Cover the same as you did for the tensioners—using a Bullet Driver and a drill or socket wrench.

CAUTION: On sleeved posts, Deluxe Post Hole Covers will anchor into the post sleeve, not the center column. Avoid over-tightening the Deluxe Post Hole Covers as this can damage your post sleeves.

PLEASE NOTE: There is a groove cut into the threaded body that allows cable to pass through at an angle. Ensure these grooves are positioned correctly inside your post when installing on angled sections.

Diagram Description: Diagrams illustrate installing deluxe post hole covers, including drilling a pilot hole and attaching the cover. A diagram also highlights the groove for angled cable passage.

6. Cut Rough Cable Lengths

Measure your runs and cut oversized, rough lengths of cable for each. When cutting, leave a few extra inches on each run to avoid ending up short. You will make an accurate, finished cut later.

Diagram Description: A diagram shows two fence posts with horizontal lines representing cables. Measurements labeled "XX"" and "XX+" indicate the rough cable lengths needed.

7. Lubricate Tensioners

Apply a drop of T-9® lubricant to the set screw channel of each tensioner. This will ease installation, reduce the likelihood of seizing, passivate the stainless steel, and help prevent corrosion.

WARNING: To avoid staining, take special care to avoid spilling T-9® on any wood surface.

Diagram Description: A diagram shows a bottle of lubricant being applied to the set screw channel of a tensioner.

PRO TIP: Use our Cable Cutter or steel wire cutters to ensure clean cut ends without fraying.

8. Crimp Cable Ends

Fit one end of a cable length with a lobed washer and a crimp sleeve. Use our Cable Crimper to firmly crimp the sleeve using the #8 die setting. Each crimp sleeve will need to be crimped twice.

Diagram Description: Diagrams illustrate the crimping process. One shows a cable end with a lobed washer and crimp sleeve. Another shows the crimping tool and the sleeve being crimped twice.

PRO TIP: A crimp using the proper die size and crimping pressure will be imprinted with an "8". Check for this indication of a secure connection.

PLEASE NOTE: The integrity of your cable tension is held in this crimp. Make sure to fully and properly crimp the sleeve onto the cable.

CAUTION: Wear eye protection while operating crimper. ?

9. Set Cable Ends

Insert the crimped cable and lobed washer into the tensioner and use a 3/32" Allen wrench or manual bit driver to advance the set screw until it is flush with the face of the tensioner.

WARNING: Do not use power tools to drive in the set screws—they can strip and/or seize in the tensioning channel. ❌

Diagram Description: Diagram shows a crimped cable end with a washer being inserted into a tensioner. A tool is shown advancing the set screw.

10. Run Cables

With the crimped end locked in place, thread your un-crimped cable end through all pass-through posts and spacer bars (if applicable).

PRO TIP: Tape your Floating Spacer Bars to the closest post until all your cables are set to ease installation.

Diagram Description: Diagrams illustrate threading cables through posts and spacer bars. One shows a "locked cable end" being secured, another shows a "spacer bar" with a cable passing through, and a third shows a "pass-through (line) post" with multiple cables.

11. Cut Exact Cable Lengths

Pull the cable hand-tight, measure one inch past the face of the tensioner, and make your finished cut.

Diagram Description: A diagram shows a post with a cable end marked 1 inch past the tensioner face, indicating the final cut point.

PRO TIP: Apply 3/4" painters tape to the edge of your post and cut at the far side of the tape. This will be 1" past the face of the tensioner.

Repeat steps 8 and 9 to secure the second end of your cable.

Then repeat the entire process for each of your cable runs.

12. Final Tensioning

Once all your cables are in place, begin tensioning each run by driving in the set screw using the 3/32" Allen wrench or manual power bit. Tension from the innermost cable outwards.

HOW TIGHT IS TIGHT ENOUGH?

A properly tensioned cable will deflect approximately 1/4" per foot under a 50 lb load. In other words, it will feel more like a bass guitar string, less like a piano wire.

Diagram Description: A diagram shows a fence with multiple cables. Numbered arrows (10, 8, 6, 4, 2, 1, 3, 5, 7, 9, 11) indicate the order in which to tension the cables, starting from the innermost and working outwards.

13. Lock Spacer Bars

Tighten down the locking set screws (top and bottom) of any Spacer Bars using a 3/32" Allen wrench.

Diagram Description: A diagram shows a close-up of a spacer bar with a set screw being tightened with an Allen wrench.

Project Notes: