SUB-ZERO 506 Ice Maker

Location
The unit may be closed in on the top, rear, and both sides, but the front must be unobstructed for air circulation and proper operation. Installation should be such that the cabinet can be moved forward for servicing if necessary. The installation site should be well ventilated with the temperature above 55°F (13°C) and below 110°F (43°C). The best results are obtained between 70°F (21°C) and 90°F (32°C). The unit must be installed in an area protected from the elements, such as wind, rain, water spray or drip. Provision for electricity, water and drainage should be determined.
Electrical Connection
The unit will require an electrical branch circuit of:
- 115 Volts
- 60 Hertz
- 1 Phase
15-Amp delayed-action fuse or circuit breaker
It is recommended that the ice maker is the only appli-ance plugged into the receptacle. Do not use an exten-sion cord. Do not use a receptacle that is controlled by a wall switch. (See Figure 2-1)
Warning
ELECTRICAL GROUND IS REQUIRED ON THIS APPLIANCE. DO NOT, UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES, REMOVE THE POWER SUPPLY GROUND PLUG.
Warning
ELECTRIC SHOCK HAZARD
IMPROPER CONNECTION OF THE EQUIPMENT GROUNDING CONDUCTOR CAN RESULT IN A RISK OF ELECTRICAL SHOCK.
- DO NOT USE A TWO-PRONG ADAPTER.
- DO NOT USE AN EXTENSION CORD.
- DO NOT HAVE A FUSE IN THE NEUTRAL OR GROUNDING CIRCUIT.
- DO NOT CONNECT TO ELECTRICAL SUPPLY UNTIL APPLIANCE IS PERMANENTLY GROUNDED.
- FAILURE TO FOLLOW THESE INSTRUCTIONS CAN RESULT IN FIRE, ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR DEATH.

Water Connection Requirements
Materials needed for installation:
- 1/4-in. O.D. copper tubing
- 1/4-in. outlet, saddle-type shut-off valve
- (Part No. 4378392)
- 1/4-in. x 1/4-in. tube union
- (Part No. 4378972)
These materials can be obtained locally or from your FSP Parts Distributor by ordering Ice Maker Installation Kit No. 978567, which includes 25 feet of copper tubing. Do not use plastic tubing because it becomes brittle with age. Make sure the saddle valve complies with local plumbing codes. Do not use a self-piercing type or 3/16-inch saddle valve because they reduce water flow and clog more easily.For proper operation, the ice maker should be connected to an active water supply line delivering cold water at pressures between 20 and 120 pounds per square inch. (See Figure 2-2)
Caution
Do not install copper tubing in an area where temperatures drop below freezing. To do so may result in water damage.

Installation of Line Tapping Device and/or Shut-off Valve
- Select the point on an active cold water supply line convenient to the unit where the connection is to be made. A point on a vertical section of 1/2-in. or 3/4-in. The line leading to the kitchen sink is ideal. If installed on a horizontal line, place the valve on top or side of the line; never on the bottom. (This will keep water away from the drill during installation and helps normal sediment from collecting in the valve.) Turn off the water supply and clear lithe line of pressure.
- Provide a length of 1/4-in. O.D. copper tubing for connecting the ice maker to the water supply. To determine the length, measurthe e distance from the unit to the connecting point on the supply line, and add approximately three feet to allow for connection to the water valve in the unit. Be sure both ends of the copper tubing are cut square.
- Drill a 1/8-in. hole in water supply line at point selected for making connection. Care must be taken to drill a clean hole perpendicular to wall of supply line. Be sure electric drill is grounded, or use a hand drill to avoid shock.
- Be sure the shut-off valve is in the OFF position. Turn clockwise until the stem is seated.
- Assemble the shut-off valve and pipe clamp and mount it on the supply line. The inlet tube of the shut-off valve must extend through the rubber washer and into the 1/8-in. A hole was drilled in the line. Tighten the packing nut. Tighten the clamp screws just enough for the rubber gasket to ensure a watertight seal. Clamping too tightly may crush the copper tubing.
- Slip the compression nutand then the sleeve oontothe end of the 1/4-in. Tubing. Insert the end of the tube into the outlet end of the shut-off valve as far as it will go, then screw the compression nut onto the shut-off valve enough to get a watertight seal. Place the other end in a sink drain or bucket.
- Turn on the main water supply. Turn the handle on the shut-off valve counterclockwise to open the valve and flush the tubing until the water runs clear, then close the valve.
NOTE: Make sure there is a vigorous flow of water (volume and pressure). - Bend the tubing to run it to the installation location. Position the tubing so it can enter the access hole located in the right rear of the ice maker cabinet. The tubing will extend beyond the cabinet front when the cabinet is pushed back into position.
Drain Connection Requirements
- The ice maker has a gravity drain. The ideal installation has a standpipe (1-1/4-in. minimum) installed directly below the outlet of the drain tube. (See Figure 2-3 and Figure 2-4)


- The drain tube must run into an open drain standpipe. The drain tube cannot be “sealed” into the standpipe.
- Because the drainage water will probably be very cold, it may be desirable to insulate the drain standpipe thor-oughly up to the drain inlet to minimise condensation on the drain standpipe.
- When a drain connection below the ice maker is not available, a pump may be used to lift the water to an available drain.
- Condensate Pump Kit No. 759064 is no longer available as a service replacement. If a replacement is needed, purchase a reliable condensate pump locally and install Part No. 759014 shunt plug into the ice machine pump receptacle.
- The condensate pump can be installed on the floor directly behind the unit where it is installed. Install the pump with the discharge tube to the rear. Run a 5/8-in. I.D. plastic tube from the bin drain directly into the pump inlet.
How It Works
- The pump recommended for use with an undercounter or freestanding ice maker is a pressure activated, high speed pump which will lift water (from melting ice and fill cycles) to a place where it can be disposed of.
- The pump installs in the compartment below the ice maker storage bin and operates on 120VAC 60Hz current It receives the AC power from a receptacle that is shunted except when the pump is present.
- Remove the shunt, and plug the MP into the receptacle.
- The pump connects directly to the drain stub of the storage bin. As the sealed chamber of the pump fills, the pressure from the water actuates the pressure switch, and causes the pump to run and pump water from the chamber. (See Figure 2-5)
- Water exits through the tube leading to the drain and is prevented from re-entering the chamber by a check valve in the output fitting on the pump.
- The impeller rotates at 3000RPM in a moulded housing designed to prevent cavitation.
- The pump is a sealed unit that depends on the weight of the water accumulating in the drain from the storage bin to activate it. Make sure the pump chamber and lid are sealed to prevent water leakage, and that all connec-tions are water-tight.
How It Works (Continued)
- When the pump is in harvest cycle, the electric circuit bypasses the pump pressure switch, and the pump runs continuously.
- At all other times, regardless of any other switch setting or condition, the pump is online and will run when the pressure switch closes.
- If the pump fails to run when the pressure switch closes, it interrupts the circuit to the fill valve so that no additional water can enter. It also interrupts the circuit to the hot gas defrost solenoid. (See Figure 2-6 and Figure 2-7)


- Run the condensate pump power cord through the hole in the wall and into the unit compartment. Inside the unit compartment, remove the shunt from the receptacle and plug in the condensate pump. (See Figure 2-8)
NOTE: Do not discard the shunt that is removed from the receptacle. This shunt must be replaced if the unit is to be operated later without a condensate pump. - Tape the shunt to the wall of the unit compartment to avoid loss.
- Run the discharge line from the pump directly to the available drain. The FSP condensate pump has a check valve located in the discharge outlet.
- Other non-FSP sump pumps may be used with the ice maker. These pumps are usually located near the available drain.
- Run a 5/8-in. I.D. plastic tube from the drain bin to the pump and a plastic hose from the discharge outlet of the pump into the available rain. If the pump does not have a check valve on the discharge outlet valve, one should be installed on the outlet tube.
- The sump pump will be plugged into an available power supply near the drain. A pressure switch inside the pump will operate the pump as
- needed, independently of the ice maker operation. The shunt remains in place in the receptacle of the unit when a non-FSP sump pump is used.
Installing the Unit
- Lay the art on its rear face and break open the bottom flaps.
- Set the carton upright with all four flaps outward.
- To avoid damage to the finished floor when the unit is installed, or if the unit needs to be removed for service purposes, the finished floor should be pro-tected with appropriate material.
- Lift the carton up and off of unit.
- Remove all of the packing tape and packaging material from the outside and inside of the cabinet.
- Remove the lower panel and grille by removing the two securing screws at the bottom of the grille, and pulling the lower panel assembly down and outward. (See Figure 2-9)


- Reach into the unit compartment and turn the fan by hand to make certain it moves freely.
- Inside the bin, loosen the thumbscrews holding the cutter grid and the water reservoir pan until they are just thumb-tight (See Figure 2-10 and Figure 2-11)
- Carefully move the ice maker into the installation location, pulling the water supply line through the hole in the rear. The water line will project through the front of the unit after the ice maker is pushed into position.
- Check that the unit is level from side to side by placing a level across the top of the cabinet.
- If necessary, the ice maker should be shimmed so that it is solid as well as level. Use a hard, permanent material, such as Masonite, for shims.
- If the ice maker is installed under a countertop, a custom Trim Kit, Part No. 819421 for the sides and top is available from your FSP parts distributor.
- After the ice maker is in place, bend the water ssupplytubing to meet the connection at the water inlet valve. It may be necessary to trim the excess length of tubing.
- Use the garden hose threaded compression fitting supplied with the ice maker to connect the water supply line to the unit.
- After completing the water line connection, open the water supply line valve and check for water-tight seals along the supply line.
- Make sure the tubing inside the unit compartment does not touch any other component in the compartment, to prevent rattle.
- Local sanitation codes may require that the ice maker cabinet be sealed to the floor with an approved caulking compound.
- If the ice maker is installed in a restaurant, local codes may require that the unit be installed off the floor. The Part No. 876649 leg kit is no longer available.
- If the front panels are not going to be changed, replace the lower panel and grille.
Changing Front Panels
Front panels for the bin door and lower panel are avail-able in different ccolours fromyour FSP parts distributor. Some models of the Undercounter Ice Maker may come with one or more additional colored panels inside the bin door assembly. Each panel has two colours, one on each side. Where required by local codes, stainless steel panels for the installation of the unit in a restaurant are also available.
To change panels
- Open bithe n door.
- Remove the two screws on top of the door, and loosen the upper side screw on one of the sides. (See Figure 2-12)


- Spread the trim on one side, and remove the door handle and top trim piece.
- Slide the metal panel out and replace it with the new colored panel. (See Figure 2-13)
- Reassemble the door.
- Remove the screws on top of the lower panel assembly (after it has already been removed from the unit), spread the side trim, and slide out the metal panel. (See Figure 2-14)
- Replace with the new colored panel and reassem-ble the lower panel assembly. Make sure the gal-vanized metal panel is in place on the rear of the lower panel assembly.
- Replace the lower panel and grille assembly.
Decorative wood panels to match the existing kitchen cabinets can also be installed on the ice maker. The consumer should order the panels from their kitchen cabinet supplier. The panels should be bevelled to no more than 1/4-in. (6 mm) thick around the edges that will fit under the trim. When installing custom-made panels, break off the ribs on the styrofoam insulation under each metal panel to allow for the thickness of the wood panel. (See Figure 2-15)
Thermostat Calibrations
- If the ice maker is installed in a location over 2000 feet above sea level, the bin and evaporator thermostats must be adjusted to compensate for the altitude.
- On the control panel, under the escutcheon, on some models of ice makers, there will be access holes to the altitude adjustment control for each thermostat; and a label with adjustment instructions will be on the front of the control panel.
- On other units, it will be necessary to remove the ther-mostats to make the adjustments and to read the instructions stamped onto the thermostat housing.
NOTE: Make altitude adjustments on the thermostats only to correct for the proper altitude of installation. Do not make altitude adjustments on the thermostats to correct other operational problems with the unit.
Water Deflector Installation
If the ice maker is installed aboard a ship, or a recre-ational vehicle where it will be operating while the RV is moving, it is necessary to purchase and install a Water Deflector Kit, Part No. 702354* from your FSP parts Distributor.T he # 702354 water deflector kit is no longer used in production and is not available as a service part. The water deflector hangs in front of the evaporator and keeps water flowing over the evaporator from spilling into the storage bin area.

Starting Up the Unit
Before using the ice maker, the consumer should wash out the bin area with a baking soda solution (2tablespoonss of soda to a quart of warm water). Then rinse thoroughly. Make sure the water supply and electric power are turned on. Turn the service control switch to the “ON” position. Allow the ice maker to run 3 hours before expecting ice, and 24 hours before trying to adjust the thickness control. The ice maker has been factory set to produce ice approximately 1/2-in. thick while operating in a room ambient temperature of 70°F (21°C). Operation in n different room ambient temperatures may require adjusting the ice thickness control. The best and most efficient operation of the unit will be obtained when the ice is manufactured between 1/2-in. and 5/8-in. thick.
Normal Consumer Maintenance
The minerals rejected from the circulating water during the ice-making cycle may eventually form a hard, scaly deposit in the water system, inhibiting the release of the ice slab from the evaporator. It is necessary to periodically clean the unit’s water sys-tem to remove the mineral scale build-up. The frequen-cy of cleaning will depend on the hardness of the water.

To clean the water system
- Set the service control switch to the “OFF” position.
- Open the bin door and remove the thumbscrews that secure the ice cutter grid. Slide out the cutter grid, and disconnect the grid wiring harness.If there is ice on the cutter grid, melt it off under running warm water in sthe sink.
- DO NOT try to pick the ice off the grid wires. Attempting to pick the ice slab off the cutter grid may stretch and damage grid wires.
- Remove all of the ice from the bin and the evaporator freezing plate.
- Remove the drain plug from the bottom of the water reservoir pan. When the pan is completely drained, replace the drain plug.
- Pour 1/2-gallon (approximately 2 litres) of hot tap water into the water reservoir pan. Turn the service control switch to the “CLEAN” position. Allow the hot water to circulate for 5 minutes.
- This will warm the system and make the cleaning solution more effective.
- While the hot water is circulating, prepare the ice maker cleaning solution.
NOTE: Always wear gloves while handling ice maker cleaner.
Preparing Cleaning Solution From Acid Crystals
Citric acid crystals are available from most pharmacies and some plumbing supply houses. Mix 6 oz. (170 g) of powdered citric acid crystals into 1/2 gallon of hot water.
NOTE: Always mix the crystals into the entire 1/2 gallon of water.
WHEN USING POWDERED ACID CRYSTALS TO MAKE A CLEANING SOLUTION, USE ONLY CITRIC ACID. DO NOT USE POWDERED PHOSPHORIC ACID.
Using a Commercially Prepared Cleaning Solution
Commercially prepared liquid ice machine cleaning solutions are available from refrigeration and plumbing supply houses.
WHEN USING A COMMERCIALLY PREPARED LIQUID CLEANING SOLUTION, USE ONLY A CITRIC ACID-BASED SOLUTION, OR A COMBINATION OF CITRIC ACID AND PHOSPHORIC ACID-BASED SOLUTION. DO NOT USE MURATIC ACID OR ANY OTHER ACID NOT APPROVED FOR USE IN A FOOD MACHINE. - Carefully follow the instructions on the bottle of ice maker cleaner to prepare 1/2 gal. (approx. 2 litres) of cleaning solution. Most ice machine cleaners are citric or phosphoric acid, which can irritate even after dilution. In case of contact with eyes, flush eyes thoroughly with fresh water and contact a physician immedi-ately. In case of contact with skin, rinse well with water. If swallowed, give large amounts of water and contact a physician immediately. Do not induce vomiting. KEEP OUT OF REACH OF CHIL-DREN.
- Turn the service control to the “OFF” position. Drain the hot tap water from the water reservoir pan. Replace drain plug when the pan is empty.
- Turn the service control to the “CLEAN” position. Carefully pour the entire 1/2 gal. of cleaning solution into the water reservoir pan. If the cleaning solution starts to foam when it is poured into the pan, stop pouring until foaming stops, then resume pouring.
- Allow the cleaning solution to circulate until the mineral buildup on the evaporator plate has dissolved. If at the end of 30 minutes the mineral build-up has still not dissolved, turn the service control to the OFF” position, and carefully drain out the cleaning solution. Mix another 1/2 gal. of solution and add as before.
- While the cleaning solution is circulating, clean the cutter grid by dipping it in a pan of prepared cleaning solution. After allowing the grid to soak for approximately 15 minutes, use a hard-bristle brush to scrub the wire connectors and insulators around the edge of the grid.
- Clean the scale off the side flanges of the evaporator freezing plate with a plastic scrubber dipped into the prepared cleaning solution. Always scrub in the direction of water flow (from front to back on the side of the plate).
- After draining out the cleaning solution from the water reservoir pan, add 1/2 gal. of fresh water and allow it to circulate for 5 minutes. Drain, and repeat the rinsing process at least one more time.
- Wash out the bin and inside the bin door with a soft cloth and a warm water and baking soda solution.
- Clean the exterior enamel surfaces and the gaskets around the door with warm water and a mild soap or detergent. Rinse and dry after washing. DO NOT use a harsh or abrasive cleaner on the exterior surfaces. Using a good household appliance wax will help pro-tect the exterior finish of the ice maker.
- Replace the cutter grid. Make certain the drain plug has been replaced in the bottom of the water reser-voir pan. Turn the service control to the “ON” posi-tion and begin normal operation of the ice maker.
Condenser Cleaning
It is necessary to periodically clean the air-cooled condenser to ensure efficient operation of the ice maker.

To clean the condenser
- Make sure the power is disconnected from he ice maker.
- Remove the screws at the bottom of the grille and remove the grille and lower panel assembly.
- Using a soft brush or a round dust brush attachment to a vacuum cleaner, remove lint and dirt from the condenser fins.
- Use a vacuum cleaner to remove dirt from the bottom of the unit compartment.
- Replace the lower panel and grille assembly. Reconnect the power supply.
TURN THE ICTHE E MAKER OFF AND DISCONNECT FROM THE MAIN POWER SUPPLY. CONDENSER FAN ROTATION AND SHARP CONDENSER FINS COULD RESULT IN PERSONAL INJURY.
DO NOT OPERATE ICE MAKER WITH LOWER ACCESS PANEL OR CONTROL PANEL REMOVED. DOING SO COULD RESULT IN DEATH, ELECTRIC SHOCK OR PERSONAL INJURY.
Documents / Resources
![]() | 506 Ice Maker |
References
- User Manualmanual.tools

