Team Associated RC10B7 Team Kit

Bag 1 - Step 1

Illustration showing the assembly of steering rack components, including bellcranks, steering rack, and ballstuds.

Note orientation of steering rack.

Bag 1 - Step 2

Illustration showing the attachment of the steering assembly to the chassis, including ballstuds, washers, and steering blocks.

Note: Orientation of set screws should face bottom. Insert one collar and bar, then add second collar for installation. Center the bar, do not overtighten.

B7 Kickup/Steering Option Chart:

Note: Do not overtighten collars on ballstud mount.

Bag 1 - Step 3

Illustration showing the attachment of the bulkhead and steering components to the chassis.

(Low position) Bellcranks down, hat side on top

(High position) Bellcranks up, hat side on bottom

Bag 2 - Step 1

Illustration showing the initial assembly of the chassis with front bulkhead and steering components.

Bag 2 - Step 2

Illustration showing the placement of battery foam, side rails, and fan mount onto the chassis.

#91988 Battery Foam is only needed if your battery is too short to fit between the side rails.

[Thread Lock] #1596

91749 M2 x 3mm FHCS x4

25201 M3 x 8mm FHCS x10

Bag 2 - Step 3

Illustration showing the installation of the steering link, servo horn, and servo saver components.

Tighten the steering link ball cups all the way until snug.

Center the servo horn on the servo.

Servo not included!

[Thread Lock] #1596

Compatibility for Servo Horns:

• 23T: Sanwa/ KO/ JR/ Spektrum
• 24T: Hitec
• 25T: Reedy/ Futaba/ Savox/ ProTek/ MKS

Bag 2 - Step 4

Illustration showing the mounting of the servo and servo mount to the chassis.

#91728 - Servo Spacers are not required for most servos.

Bag 2 - Step 5

Illustration showing the assembly of the front suspension arms, anti-roll bar, and pivot balls.

Do not overtighten set screws.

Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)

Bag 2 - Step 6

Illustration showing the assembly of the front hinge pin and associated components.

[Thread Lock] #1596

Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)

Bag 2 - Step 7

Illustration showing the attachment of the front bumper and shock tower cover.

See installation notes in next step!

Bag 2 - Step 8

Illustration showing the installation of the front wing mount and associated hardware.

1. Line up the front tower cover on the shock tower at an angle as shown in the 1st image to the right.

2. Press firmly down on the center of the shock tower cover. Be sure to keep the tower cover centered on the tower.

3. The cover should snap into place with the tap locking on the back side of the tower.

NOTE: The tower cover was designed to key into place with the supplied LP SHCS. Use of another screw type is not recommended.

#92417 - Front Wing Mount is used as a tuning option to increase front end stability by adding a front wing (included). If you do not use #92417, use #25202 M3x10mm FHCS instead of #25203 M3x12mm FHCS.

Bag 3 - Step 1

Illustration showing the assembly of the steering blocks, KPI components, and front axle.

KPI 1 has less direct steering feel. KPI 3 has most direct steering feel.

Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)

Bag 3 - Step 2

Illustration showing the assembly of caster blocks, pivot balls, and steering stop screws.

Steering stop screw. Set flush with caster block to start.

There are three caster block inserts included (0°, +/- 2.5°, +/- 5°). +2.5° is the standard insert used. Tab up = adds caster. Tab down = removes caster.

Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)

Bag 3 - Step 3

Illustration showing the assembly of caster blocks with inserts, hinge pins, and associated hardware.

#92496 - Hinge Pin will be tight in the caster blocks, but should rotate freely in the front arms.

Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)

Bag 4 - Step 1

Illustration showing the assembly of rear suspension arms and arm mounts.

You can use a dot of CA glue to better secure the lower shock mounting set screw.

See next step for pill chart tips.

Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)

Bag 4 - Step 2

Illustration showing the rear suspension arms mounted to the chassis with spacers and hinge pins.

The (#92432) C and (#92433) D aluminum arm mounts allow for a large amount of setup combinations when using the (#92014) 0.5° and 1° arm mount inserts.

For a complete list of pill setup combinations, please visit our website by using the link below: http://bit.ly/B6PillChart

Bag 5 - Step 1

Illustration showing the assembly of the gear differential components: gear, sun gear, and outdrive.

[Black Grease] #6588

Bag 5 - Step 2

Illustration showing the assembly of the gear differential with planet gears, shims, and cover.

[Black Grease] #6588

Bag 5 - Step 3

Illustration showing the final assembly of the gear differential, including sun gear, outdrive pin, and gasket.

[Diff Fluid]

31522 M2.5 x 10mm BHCS x4

Fill to top of the cross pins.

Bag 6 - Step 1

Illustration showing the assembly of the gearbox halves, top shaft, and idler gears.

Bag 6 - Step 2

Illustration showing the assembly of the anti-roll bar system, including links, pivots, and collars.

Note order of assembly.

Note: Orientation of set screws should face away from gearbox. Insert one collar and bar, then add second collar for installation. Center anti-roll bar. Do not overtighten!

Do not over-tighten the anti-roll bar set screws. The anti-roll bar should rotate freely in the assembly.

Bag 6 - Step 3

Illustration showing the assembly of the rear gearbox, top shaft, and diff height inserts.

Add a drop of Diff Lube (#6591 - not included) to the teeth of the diff gear, idler gear, and top shaft.

Diff Height Inserts: The number on top is the setting. Stock diff height is 2.

[Thread Lock] #1596

Bag 6 - Step 4

Illustration showing the assembly of the slipper clutch, spur gear, and motor mount.

#92295 spur gear walls should point away from gear box.

There's also a 72T, 48P spur gear (#92293) included for stock motor use!

Optional rear bumper included!

Bag 6 - Step 5

Illustration showing the assembly of the slipper spring adapters and rear tower cover.

See page 23 for gear mesh, and slipper clutch setting instructions!

Set nut flush with top shaft as a starting point.

Bag 6 - Step 6

Illustration showing the final assembly of the rear suspension components, including rear wing mount and body mount.

Bag 7 - Step 1

Illustration showing the assembly of the rear hubs, ballstuds, and associated hardware.

Note: HRC and Std hubs included in Kit. HRC allows for higher axle heights (+2 positions).

[Thread Lock] #1596

92179 Rear Hub Inserts

Build x2 (right and left side)

Bag 7 - Step 2

Illustration showing the assembly of the CVA bones, couplers, and pins.

[Black Grease] #6588

91859 CVA Axle, +2mm x2

Build x2

Bag 7 - Step 3

Illustration showing the assembly of the clamping wheel hex, rear hub spacer, and hinge pin.

Do not overtighten the 1.6 x 5mm SHCS into the Clamping wheel hex.

Hinge Pin will be tight in the rear hub, but should rotate freely in the rear arms.

Build x2 (right and left side)

Bag 8 - Step 1

Illustration showing the assembly of the front camber turnbuckles.

Racers Tip: Use black grease (#6588) on the threads of the turnbuckles for easier ball cup installation!

Orient the notch to the left throughout the car. It indicates which end has the left hand threads!

Front Camber Turnbuckle: 26.60mm

Build x2 (right and left side)

[Black Grease] #6588

Bag 8 - Step 2

Illustration showing the assembly of the steering turnbuckles.

There are two offset ballcups labeled "1" and "2". The ballcup labeled "1" goes on the right side of the vehicle.

Orient the notch to the left throughout the car. It indicates which end has the left hand threads!

Steering Turnbuckle: 28.70mm

Build x2 (right and left side)

[Black Grease] #6588

Measurements given are approximation. Camber should be set with a gauge at ride height.

Bag 8 - Step 3

Illustration showing the assembly of the rear camber turnbuckles.

Orient the notch to the left throughout the car. It indicates which end has the left hand threads!

Rear Camber Turnbuckle: 27.40mm

Build x2 (right and left side)

[Black Grease] #6588

Measurements given are approximation. Camber should be set with a gauge at ride height.

Bag 9 - Step 1

Illustration showing the assembly of the front and rear shock pistons and shafts.

Mount the shock pistons with the number facing up!

Racers Tip: Use a marker over the numbers on the pistons to make them easily visible!

Build x2 front shocks

Build x2 rear shocks

Bag 9 - Step 2

Illustration showing the assembly of shock bodies, caps, O-rings, and spacers.

Lightly rub shock oil on the O-ring before installation!

Racers Tip: Coating the O-rings with green slime (#1105) helps seal & reduce O-ring swell! Green slime not included in kit!

[FT Green Slime] #1105

Build x2 front shocks

Build x2 rear shocks

Bag 9 - Step 3

Illustration showing the selection and assembly of shock eyelets and pivot balls.

There are 3 lengths of shock eyelet in the kit. Pay attention to length when building as these affect your droop and uptravel.

Omm +2mm +4mm

Lightly rub shock fluid or green slime on threads

[Shock Fluid]

[FT Green Slime] #1105

Build x2 front shocks

Build x2 rear shocks

Bag 9 - Step 4

Illustration detailing the shock bleeding process, showing steps for filling, air removal, and final assembly.

Shock Bleeding Steps:

1. Before assembly, get each bleed screw and thread it 1-2 turns into the shock cap, then remove the screw. This will make it easier when you are bleeding your shocks.
2. Pull shock shaft down.
3. Fill shock body 3/4 full with silicone shock fluid.
4. Slowly move the shock shaft up and down to remove air from under the piston.
5. Wait for bubbles to come to surface.
6. Fill shock body to top with silicone shock fluid.
7. Place a drop of oil in the cap and on cap threads.
8. Install cap (without bleed screw) and tighten completely.
9. Slowly compress shaft all the way to bleed excess silicone shock fluid out the hole in the cap (use rag around shock to catch excess fluid).
10. Install M2x4mm button head screw until snug while shaft is fully compressed.

Steps 2-3

Steps 4-5

Steps 6-7

Step 8

Steps 9-10

Stroke Front: 23.5mm

Stroke Rear: 27.5mm

Bag 9 - Step 5

Illustration showing the assembly of shock spring collars and threaded collars.

Screw collars to top. Use to adjust ride height.

Racers Tip: Use your finger to rub shock fluid on the O-ring for smoother adjustment!

Build x4

Bag 9 - Step 6

Illustration showing the final assembly of the front and rear shocks with spring cups.

#91966 13mm Shock Spring Cups: 0mm, 5mm, 9mm

Build x2 front shocks

Build x2 rear shocks

Bag 9 - Step 7

Illustration showing the attachment of the assembled shocks to the front suspension arms.

Use outside hole in front arm!

Build x2 (right and left side)

Bag 9 - Step 8

Illustration showing the attachment of the assembled shocks to the rear suspension arms.

Make sure the flange on the shock pivot ball is towards the rear arm.

Build x2 (right and left side)

Bag 10 - Step 1

Illustration showing the mounting of the motor and fan to the chassis.

Fan not included!

Motor not included!

See page 25 for gear mesh setting instructions!

Bag 10 - Step 2

Illustration showing the placement of the receiver and ESC onto the chassis.

Receiver not included!

ESC not included!

41096 M3 x 8mm LP SHCS x2

Pinion & Setscrew not included!

Bag 10 - Step 3

Illustration showing the battery holder options (Standard and Offset) and their installation.

Standard and Low Profile battery thumb screws are included. Shims may need to be added if battery weights are used.

Use M3 x 18mm for standard height. Use M3 x 12mm LP height.

Battery not included!

Bag 10 - Step 4

Illustration showing the mounting of the clear body and wing to the chassis.

There are two options for trimming the kit body on the left rear side. Dotted line is preferred if you run a motor fan.

Install hook and loop tape (#91743) along the side braces in 2 spots. One near the front, and one in the middle. Install the opposite side of the hook and loop tape inside the body!

Bag 10 - Step 5

Illustration showing the attachment of the wing button and wing mount.

Install button and washer with wing mount.

Wing Mount Options:

• 6° - Mount under wing - KIT
• 3° - Mount on top of wing
• 0° - Mount under wing

Front of Vehicle

Bag 10 - Step 6

Illustration showing the gluing of tires to wheels, and the attachment of wheel nuts.

Wheels, Tires, and Inserts are not included!

Carefully apply CA glue (tire adhesive) to the tire bead on the side. Do one side at a time, allowing it to dry before gluing the other side! CA glue not included!

[FT Tire Adhesive] #1597

Build x2

Build x2

Build 2 (1 left, 1 right)

Painting, Beginners

Your Kit requires a clear polycarbonate body. You will need to prep the body before you can paint it. Wash the INSIDE thoroughly with warm water and liquid detergent (do not use any detergents with scents or added hand lotion ingredients!). Dry the body using a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. Use the supplied window masks to cover the windows from the INSIDE of the body (RC bodies get painted on the inside). Using high quality masking tape, apply tape to the inside of the body to create a design. Spray (use either rattle can or airbrush) the paint on the inside of the body (preferably dark colors first, lighter colors last). NOTE: ONLY use paint that is recommended for (polycarbonate) plastics. If you do not, you can destroy the body! After the paint has completely dried (usually after 24 hours), cut the body along the trim lines. Make sure to drill or use a body reamer to make the holes for the antenna if needed! Use hook and loop tape to secure the body to the side rails of the vehicle.

Tips for Beginners

Before making any changes to the standard setup, make sure you can get around the track without crashing. Changes to your vehicle will not be beneficial if you can't stay on the track. Your goal is consistent laps. Once you can get around the track consistently, start tuning your vehicle. Make only ONE adjustment at a time, testing it before making another change. If the result of your adjustment is a faster lap, mark the change on the included setup sheet (make additional copies of the sheet before writing on it). If your adjustment results in a slower lap, revert back to the previous setup and try another change. When you are satisfied with your vehicle, fill in the setup sheet thoroughly and file it away. Use this as a guide for future track days or conditions. Periodically check all moving suspension parts. Suspension components must be kept clean and move freely without binding to prevent poor and/or inconsistent handling.

Rear Arm Mount Pill Insert Setup

The aluminum rear arm mounts utilize eccentric pill inserts to make fine adjustments to anti-squat, toe, pin heights, and pin width. Adjustments can be made using the supplied inserts (#92014).

Insert Hole Locations

Number indicates degree of change: 0.5°, 1.0°, 0° (center dot)

Standard Position

Use this position as a reference when changing pill locations.

• Toe: 3°
• Roll Center: +0
• Anti-squat: 2°
• Pivot Width: +0

Pin Width

More distance = wider pivot. Less distance = narrow pivot.

*Note: For pin width -1.4mm, use 67mm CVA driveshafts.

Anti-squat Angle

More angle = More anti-squat. Less angle = Less anti-squat. Shown in 1° changes.

Pin Height

Higher pin = Higher roll center. Lower pin = lower roll center.

Toe Angle

More angle = More toe in. Less angle = Less toe in. Shown in 1° changes.

For additional setup tips, please visit our website by using the link or QR code below: http://bit.ly/B6PillChart

Motor Gearing

Proper motor gearing will result in maximum performance and run time while reducing the chance of overheating and premature motor failure. The gear ratio chart lists recommended starting gear ratios for the most widely used motor types. Gear ratios will vary depending upon motor brand, wind, and electronic speed control. Consult your motor and electronic speed control manufacturers for more information. Team Associated is not responsible for motor damage due to improper gearing.

B7 Gear Ratio Chart (Internal Gear Ratio 2.60:1)

*75T spur gear (#92294) not included

Set The Gear Mesh

You should be able to rock the spur gear back and forth in the teeth of the pinion gear without making the pinion gear move. If the spur gear mesh is tight, then loosen the #41096 screws (p.19) and move the motor away, then try again. A gear mesh that is too tight or too loose will reduce power and damage the gear teeth.

Diff Height Adjustment

The diff height adjustment (p.12) is a good way to tune the car for grip level. On high grip with low ride heights, a higher diff height will be a good option. On lower grip with higher ride heights, a lower diff height will be better.

Slipper Clutch

The assembly instructions give you a base setting for your clutch. Turn the nut on the shaft so that the end of the top shaft is even with the outside of the nut. At the track, tighten or loosen the nut in 1/8 turn increments until you hear a faint slipping sound for 1-2 feet on takeoffs. Another popular way to set the clutch is to hold both rear tires firmly in place and apply short bursts of throttle. If the clutch is properly set, the front tires should lift slightly up off the surface.

Caster

Caster describes the angle of the caster block as it leans toward the rear of the vehicle. Positive caster means the kingpin leans rearward at the top. The kit includes three inserts to adjust caster angle at the caster block, 0°, 2.5°, and +5°. The total caster angle is the sum of the kick-up angle and the caster block angle. Standard total caster angle for the B6 is 30°, with 25° kick-up and +5° caster block angle. For less entry steering and more exit steering, try 0° caster block angle.

Front Camber

Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the front. Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, is not recommended. A camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.

Testing camber with camber gauge

Rear Camber

Camber describes the angle at which the tire and wheel rides when looked at from the back. Negative camber means that the tire leans inward at the top. A good starting camber setting is -1°. Adding a small amount of positive camber, where the top of the tire is leaning out, will tend to improve straight-line acceleration on loose tracks. A camber gauge can be used to more accurately set camber.