Part 1. SETUP RX-009 KNIFE SHARPENER
Step 1: Assembly
Assemble the whetstone bracket and connect the rod. To prevent loosening during sharpening, a screwdriver ? can be used to tighten it. Diagram: Shows a connecting rod and the whetstone bracket assembly, with arrows indicating screw tightening points.
Step 2: Base Installation
Fix the base on the table, then remove the screws on the base. Diagram: Illustrates securing the base to the table using a knob and removing screws.
Step 3: Angle Adjustment Post
Secure the Angle Adjustment Post to the Base. Tighten the long rod first, then tighten the butterfly buckle firmly. Diagram: Shows the angle adjustment post being attached to the base, with arrows indicating the tightening sequence for the rod and buckle.
Step 4: Silicone Pad for Knives
If sharpening a chef knife or other kitchen knife, you can attach the silicone non-slip pad. Note: For pocket knives, the silicone pad is not necessary. To prevent wear on the knife surface, protective tape can be applied to the clamp position. Diagram: Shows silicone pads being placed onto the knife clamp.
Step 5: Sharpening Stone Installation
Install the stone according to Figure 1. Slightly tighten the screws at the back. Turn the handle in the indicated direction until the stone is well clamped. Diagram: Depicts three stages of installing a sharpening stone into the holder, showing positioning and tightening actions.
Step 6: Installation Complete
The installation is completed as shown. Diagram: A view of the fully assembled knife sharpener with a sharpening stone installed.
Part 2. START SHARPENING BY FOLLOWING STEPS BELOW
Step 1: Check Setup
Re-check your setup of the knife sharpener.
Step 2: Angle Adjustment
Use a protractor app on a smartphone (e.g., iPhone's Measure-Level) to measure the angle of the knife blade's flat surface. Add or subtract the desired bevel angle to this measurement to determine the required stone angle. Insert the stone holder rod into the ball joint and adjust the thumb screw to position the stone at the proper angle. Measure the stone angle and knife angle again, then recalculate or adjust as needed.
Step 3: Choose Appropriate Stone
Select the appropriate stone from the kit: Coarse (LOW Grit) or Fine (High Grit). Coarse grinding is for repairing seriously damaged or passivated blades, while fine grinding is for creating an edge, consolidating the blade, and daily sharpening. Start with the coarsest stone and progress to finer ones. Note: The RX-009 pivot has a whetstone thickness compensation function, allowing adjustment of the pivot height to accommodate different stone thicknesses. Diagram: Illustrates the pivot mechanism and how adjusting its height compensates for stone thickness.
Step 4: Stone Usage Before and During Sharpening
Wet the stone with water and soak it for 5-10 minutes before use. Lubricate with water or honing oil as needed. You can soak all stones simultaneously to save time. Wipe off excess water before use. Insert the stone into the holder. Draw the stone diagonally along the blade, from tip to handle or handle to tip, towards the spine. Use LIGHT pressure, no more than the weight of the stone. Move slowly and smoothly.
Step 5: Repeat Strokes and Wipe
Repeat step 4.c) for about 10 strokes and wipe the blade with a clean, soft cloth.
Step 6: Sharpen Other Side
Sharpen the other side of the blade by flipping the knife. Remember to re-measure and adjust the angle. Then repeat steps 4.c) to 5 on this side. (Refer to the FAQ section if the angle changes during flipping).
Step 7: Final Strokes
If the edge is nearly complete, repeat step 4.c) with 5 strokes on each side.
Step 8: Change Stones
Switch to the next finer stone (Higher Grit).
Step 9: Continue Sharpening
Repeat steps 4.c) through 7 until you have finished with your finest stone.
Step 10: Leather Strop Use
Note: Skip this step if a leather strop is not included in your package. Check and adjust the angle as needed. Strop the edge from tip to handle or handle to tip, but diagonally AWAY from the spine this time. Strop for 3-5 strokes on each side. Remember to re-measure and adjust your angle each time you flip the knife.
Step 11: Clean Knife
Wipe the knife clean.
Step 12: Stone Maintenance and Storage
After use, rinse the stones. Rub the used side with a finger or soft brush to loosen metal filings. Dry the stones with a clean towel and let them air dry completely before storing.
Step 13: Disassembly and Storage
Disassemble the knife sharpener and store all components back into the carry bag.
Part 3. TIPS ON OPERATING
Wipe off excess water after wetting the stones to prevent water from dripping onto the STONE ARM or PIVOT.
Place the blade on the BLADE TABLE with the knife handle against the machine and the edge parallel to the front of the GUIDE.
Place the STONE on the knife's edge. Pull the knob fully towards you and slide the STONE over to the HEEL of the blade.
The Stroke: Push the STONE ARM forward while simultaneously sliding it to the opposite side of the BLADE TABLE (diagonal motion). Pull the STONE ARM back to the starting position along the same path. Apply just enough pressure for the stone to cut; most sharpening occurs on the push stroke. Do not lift the STONE on the pull stroke; let it slide on the edge. Use smooth, long, slow strokes, gently bumping the stops. Hold the KNOB loosely so it can follow the knife blade's shape. Let the STONE slide from side to side in a straight line. Avoid circular motions, as they concentrate sharpening in one area of the edge.
Go Slowly: Stones cut faster and are easier to control when moving slowly. Fast movements cause them to slide over the blade without cutting.
Clean the STONE and wipe the knife blade. Move the STONE ARM to the side so water runs away from the PIVOT. Apply just enough water to cover the stone's surface to float metal and grit away. Wipe the STONE with a damp terry cloth/rag. Diagram: Shows the STONE ARM with PUSH (FORWARD) → and PULL (BACK) ← arrows, and a STOP point.
Part 4. TIPS ON JUDGING WHETHER THE SHARPENING IS COMPLETED
Bring the edge to a BURR. Continue making equal passes down each side of the blade. When the two sharpening cuts meet at the edge, the metal breaks down and forms a BURR, which can be felt by drawing your thumb across and away from the edge on the opposite side of the last pass. Diagram: Illustrates the knife edge showing the BURR formation on the opposite side of the last sharpening pass.
Check the edge for a BURR each time you switch sides. The BURR may form in some areas before others. Concentrate sharpening on areas without a BURR and pass lightly over areas that have started to BURR. When an even BURR is present on both sides, switch to a finer stone and make a few light passes on each side.
Remove the BURR. Wipe the stone and knife. Make 2-3 passes down each side of the blade with NO PRESSURE on the STONE, using only the weight of the STONE ARM. DO NOT HIT THE STOP. Move the knife quickly so the STONE makes only a light stroke in each section. Check that the BURR is gone. Excessive pressure or too many strokes will create new BURRs.
Part 5. FAQ
Q1: The stone cannot be clamped tightly
Firstly, check if the handle is properly in place (the screw on the handle can be loosened to adjust its position). Secondly, verify that the stone has been installed according to the instructions. Diagram: Shows the clamp mechanism, highlighting the handle and potential adjustment points.
Q2: Whetstone Guide Rod Falls Off
The guide rod may fall off if it is not tightened enough. Try tightening it with a screwdriver ?. Diagram: Shows the guide rod assembly, indicating where tightening might be needed.
Q3: Angle adjustment pivot slides during sharpening
First, check if the stopper (circled in red) is positioned under the pivot. Stoppers are required to maintain fixed angles and prevent the pivot from slipping. If the pivot moves up and down, use two stoppers together (one on the pivot, the other on the whetstone guide rod) to fix the pivot's position. Diagram: Shows the pivot with a stopper circled, and then with two stoppers in place to secure it.
Q4: Angle difference while flipping the blade
Check if the knife is inserted too deeply into the fixture. Adjust the knife's position on the clamp accordingly. Diagram: Illustrates two scenarios: 'TOO DEEP' knife placement causing an incorrect angle, and 'NORMAL' placement.
Q5: Pivot sliding stuck
Slightly loosen the screw above the pivot. Apply lubricating oil or graphite to the guide rod. Insert the guide rod and rub it back and forth to lubricate the pivot. Diagram: Shows the pivot area with a screw labeled for adjusting looseness.
Part 6. FUNCTION&USAGE OF VARIOUS SHARPENING STONES
DIAMOND STONE
Diamond stones are generally used for cemented carbide knives. They offer high hardness and large grinding capacity, requiring no lubrication. Ceramic knives can also be sharpened with diamond stones. Image: Five diamond sharpening stones of varying colors and grits.
Grit Usage:
- 120-240#: Coarse grinding, suitable for removing chips from a damaged blade.
- 600#: Medium grinding, smoothing a rough edge into a medium edge.
- 1000-3000#: Fine grinding, smoothing a medium edge into a sharp edge for daily use.
SILICON CARBIDE WHETSTONE
Made by sintering silicon carbide abrasive with a binder, these stones have high hardness and grinding performance, suitable for edge repair. Before use, soak them in water or lubricate with honing oil. Image: Three silicon carbide whetstones.
- 180# (60-70um): Suitable for removing chips from a damaged blade.
- 400# (35-25um): Roughly sharpening a blunt edge.
- 800# (14-20um): Smoothing a rough edge into a medium edge.
Alumina Ceramic Whetstone
Sintered from alumina and binder, alumina ceramics have high mesh and hardness, making them very suitable for fine knife grinding. Before use, soak them in water or lubricate with honing oil. Image: Three alumina ceramic whetstones.
- 1500-3000# (2.5-7um): Smoothing a medium edge into a sharp edge for daily use.
BORON CARBIDE WHETSTONE
Sintered from boron carbide particles and binder, these stones offer good stability and high hardness, ideal for polishing knife edges. They provide more durable and better protection for the knife. Before use, soak them in water or lubricate with honing oil. Image: Two boron carbide whetstones.
- 3000#fine (1.5-2um): Preliminary polishing of the blade.
- 6000# (0.5-1.0um): Polished blade to mirror effect.
NATURAL WHETSTONE/WATER STONE
Cut from natural emeralds, these stones have a high grain size ideal for edge polishing. As natural stones, they may have minor cracks, which do not affect their use. Image: One natural green whetstone.
- 10000# (0.5-1.0um): Polished blade to mirror effect.
LEATHER STROP
Made from cowhide paste, typically used at the end of knife sharpening. It removes burrs and sharpens the edge. Polishing paste can also be applied for further polishing. Image: A leather strop.
For any questions about the product, please email: cruitech4u@hotmail.com