User Instructions for RX-009(PLUS)

Content

1. Setup RX-009 Knife Sharpener
2. Start Sharpening by Following Steps Below
3. Tips on Operating
4. Tips on Judging Whether the Sharpening is Completed
5. FAQ
6. Function & Usage of Various Sharpening Stones

Part 1. SETUP RX-009 KNIFE SHARPENER

1. Assemble the whetstone bracket and connect the rod. Use a screwdriver to tighten the screws to prevent looseness during sharpening. (Figure 1)
2. Fix the base on the table. Remove the screws on the base. (Figure 2) [Tool Icon: Unscrew]
3. Secure the Angle Adjustment Post to the Base. Tighten the long rod first, then tighten the butterfly buckle firmly. (Figure 3) [Icon: Tighten the angle positioning rod]
4. For chef knives or other kitchen knives, place the silicone non-slip pad on the base. For pocket knives, the silicone pad is not necessary. A protective tape can be applied to the knife clamp position to prevent wear on the knife surface. (Figure 4) [Icon: Put on the rubber boot]
5. Instructions on sharpening stones installation: Install the stone according to Figure 1. Slightly tighten the screws at the back. Turn the handle in the indicated direction until the stone is well clamped. (Figure 5)
6. Installation completed as shown.

Part 2. START SHARPENING BY FOLLOWING STEPS BELOW

1. CHECK: Re-check your setup of the knife sharpener.
2. Angle Adjustment:
   • Use a protractor app on a smartphone (e.g., iPhone's Measure-Level app) to measure the angle of the knife blade's flat surface. Add or subtract the desired bevel angle to determine the required stone angle.
   • Insert the stone holder rod into the ball joint and adjust the thumb screw to set the stone to the proper angle.
   • Measure the stone angle and knife angle again, then recalculate or adjust as necessary.
3. Choose the appropriate stone: Coarse (LOW Grit) or Fine (High Grit). Coarse grit is for repairing damaged blades, while fine grit is for creating an edge, consolidating the blade, and daily sharpening. Start with the coarsest stone and progress to finer ones. The RX-009 pivot has a whetstone thickness compensation function, allowing adjustment for different whetstone thicknesses by simply adjusting the pivot height. [Diagram: Whetstone Thickness Compensation]
4. Steps to use the stones before and during sharpening:
   • Wet the stone with water and soak for 5-10 minutes before use. Lubricate with water or honing oil as needed. Stones can be soaked simultaneously to save time. Wipe off excess water before use.
   • Insert the stone into the holder.
   • Draw the stone diagonally along the blade, from tip to handle or handle to tip, towards the spine. Use light pressure, no more than the weight of the stone. Move slowly and smoothly.
5. Repeat step 4.c) for about 10 strokes and wipe the blade with a clean, soft cloth.
6. Sharpen the other side of the blade by flipping the knife. Re-measure and adjust the angle. Repeat steps 4.c) and 5 on the other side of the blade. Refer to the FAQ for angle changes during flipping.
7. If the edge is nearly complete, repeat step 4.c) with 5 strokes on each side.
8. Change Stones: Move to the next finer stone (higher grit).
9. Repeat steps 4.c) through 7 until you have sharpened with your finest stone.
10. Leather strop use (if included): Adjust the angle as needed. Strop the edge from tip to handle or handle to tip, diagonally AWAY from the spine. Strop for 3-5 strokes on each side. Re-measure and adjust the angle whenever flipping the knife.
11. Wipe the knife clean.

Part 3. TIPS ON OPERATING

1. Wipe off excess water from the stones to prevent it from falling onto the stone arm or pivot.
2. Place the blade on the blade table with the knife handle against the machine and the edge parallel to the front of the guide.
3. Place the stone on the knife's edge. Pull the knob all the way towards you and slide the stone over to the heel of the blade.
4. The Stroke: Push the stone arm forward, simultaneously sliding the stone to the opposite side of the blade table in a diagonal motion. Pull the stone arm back to the starting position along the same path. Apply just enough pressure for the stone to cut. Most sharpening occurs on the push stroke. Do not lift the stone on the pull stroke; let it slide on the edge. Use smooth, long, slow strokes, gently bumping the stops. Hold the knob loosely to allow it to follow the knife blade's shape. Let the stone slide in a straight line. Avoid circular motions, which concentrate sharpening in one area.
5. Go slowly. Stones cut faster and are easier to control when moving slowly. Fast movement causes stones to slide over the blade without cutting.
6. Clean the stone and wipe the knife blade. Move the stone arm to the side to allow water to run away from the pivot. Apply enough water to the stone to cover its surface. This helps float metal and grit away. Wipe the stone with a damp terry cloth/rag. [Diagram: Sharpening stroke with labels for Stone Arm, Stop, Pull (Back), Push (Forward)]

Part 4. TIPS ON JUDGING WHETHER THE SHARPENING IS COMPLETED

1. Bring the edge to a BURR. Make equal passes down each side of the blade. When the sharpening cuts meet at the edge, the metal breaks down, forming a BURR that can be felt by drawing your thumb across and away from the edge on the opposite side of the last pass. [Diagram: Burr formation with labels indicating 'Draw thumb across and away from edge' and 'The BURR always occurs on the opposite side of the last sharpening pass.']
2. Check for a BURR each time you switch sides. The BURR may form unevenly. Concentrate sharpening on areas without a BURR and lightly pass over areas where a BURR has started. Once an even BURR is present on both sides, switch to a finer stone and make a few light passes on each side.
3. Remove the BURR. Wipe the stone and knife. Make 2-3 passes down each side of the blade with NO PRESSURE, using only the weight of the stone arm. DO NOT HIT THE STOP. Move the knife quickly so the stone makes only one light stroke per blade section. Check that the BURR is gone. Excessive pressure or too many stone strokes will create a new BURR.

Part 5. FAQ

1. Q1: The stone cannot be clamped tightly
   A: First, check if the handle is properly in place. The screw on the handle can be loosened to adjust its position. Second, verify that the stone has been installed according to the instructions. [Diagram: Whetstone clamp with adjustment screw highlighted]
2. Q2: Whetstone Guide Rod Falls Off
   A: The guide rod may fall off if not tightened sufficiently. Try tightening it with a screwdriver.
3. Q3: Angle adjustment pivot slides during sharpening
   A: Ensure the stopper (circled in red) is positioned correctly under the pivot to maintain fixed angles. Stoppers are required to prevent the pivot from slipping. If the pivot moves up and down, use two stoppers together (one on the whetstone guide rod) to secure the pivot's position. [Diagram: Pivot with stopper circled and diagram showing two stoppers used]
4. Q4: Angle difference while flipping the blade
   A: Check if the knife is inserted too deeply into the fixture and adjust the knife's position on the clamp accordingly. [Diagram: Illustration showing 'TOO DEEP' and 'NORMAL' knife insertion angles]
5. Q5: Pivot sliding stuck
   A: Slightly loosen the screw above the pivot. Apply lubricating oil or graphite to the guide rod. Insert the guide rod and move it back and forth to lubricate the pivot. [Diagram: Pivot area with instruction to 'ADJUST THE PIVOT LOOSENESS']

Part 6. FUNCTION & USAGE OF VARIOUS SHARPENING STONES

DIAMOND STONE

Diamond stones are used for cemented carbide knives. They have high hardness and large grinding capacity and do not require lubrication. Ceramic knives can also be sharpened with diamond stones.

[Image: Diamond stones of varying grits: 120#, 240#, 600#, 1000#, 2000#, 3000#]

• 120-240#: Coarse grinding, suitable for removing chips from a damaged blade.
• 600#: Medium grinding, smoothing a rough edge into a medium edge.
• 1000-3000#: Fine grinding, smoothing a medium edge into a sharp edge for daily use.

SILICON CARBIDE WHETSTONE

Made from sintered silicon carbide abrasive mixed with a binder. Offers high hardness and grinding performance, suitable for edge repair. Before use, soak in water or lubricate with honing oil.

[Image: Silicon Carbide Whetstones labeled 180, 400, 800]

• 180#(60-70um): Suitable for removing chips from a damaged blade.
• 400#(35-25um): Roughly sharpens a blunt edge.
• 800#(14-20um): Smooths a rough edge into a medium edge.

Alumina ceramic whetstone

Sintered from alumina and binder. Alumina ceramics have high mesh and hardness, suitable for fine grinding of knives. Before use, soak in water or lubricate with honing oil.

[Image: Alumina ceramic whetstones labeled 1500, 2000, 3000]

1500-3000#(2.5-7um): Smoothing a medium edge into a sharp edge for daily use.

BORON CARBIDE WHETSTONE

Sintered from boron carbide particles and binder, offering good stability and high hardness for polishing knife edges. More durable and provides better protection for the knife. Before use, soak in water or lubricate with honing oil.

[Image: Boron Carbide Whetstones labeled 3000 and 6000]

• 3000#fine (1.5-2um): Preliminary polishing of the blade.
• 6000#(0.5-1.0um): Polished blade to mirror effect.

NATURAL WHETSTONE/WATER STONE

Cut from natural emeralds, with a high grain size ideal for edge polishing. May have natural cracks that do not affect use.

[Image: Natural Whetstone labeled 10000]

10000#(0.5-1.0um): Polished blade to mirror effect.

LEATHER STROP

Made of cowhide paste, used at the end of sharpening to remove burrs and sharpen the edge. Polishing paste can be applied for further polishing.

[Image: Leather strop]

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