Petzl NEOX Belay Device: Instructions for Use and Safety Guide

Introduction and Safety Warnings

⚠️ WARNING / ATTENTION: Activities involving the use of this equipment are inherently dangerous. You are responsible for your own actions, decisions and safety.

Before using this equipment, you must:

• Read, understand, follow and apply all Instructions for Use.
• Get specific training in its proper use.
• Become acquainted with its capabilities and limitations.
• Understand and accept the risks involved.

Failure to heed these instructions or any of these warnings may result in severe injury or death.

This product must only be used by competent and responsible persons, or those placed under the direct and visual control of a competent and responsible person.

1. Field of Application

Personal protective equipment (PPE) used for fall protection from height. Belay device with cam-assisted blocking, for rock climbing. EN 15151-1 type 6: devices for belaying and rappelling without a panic blocking element.

The NEOX allows the user, with the device attached to their harness, to belay a climber on lead or top rope and to lower them. It also allows rappelling on a single strand of rope.

This product must not be pushed beyond its limits.

This product must not be used for any purpose other than those described in Petzl instructions (example of unauthorized use: self-belaying).

2. Nomenclature

The NEOX consists of the following parts:

• (1) Moving side plate
• (2) Cam
• (3) Cam axle
• (4) Brake plates
• (5) Wheel
• (6) Handle
• (7) Attachment holes
• (8) Rivet
• (9) Brake side of the rope

Principal materials: aluminum, stainless steel, nylon.

3. Inspection, Points to Verify

Your safety depends upon the integrity of your equipment. Petzl recommends a detailed inspection at least once every 12 months. WARNING: Your intensity of use may cause you to inspect your PPE more frequently. Record the results on your PPE inspection record sheet: see examples at Petzl.com.

Before each use:

• Verify the absence of any deformation, cracks, marks, wear or corrosion on the product.
• Verify that the cam and release handle move freely and that the springs are working properly.
• Check the condition of the wheel and verify that it rotates in both directions. Verify that it can move upward when pushed and that it returns to its proper place when released.
• Check the condition of the cam and the friction plates.
• Verify that there are no foreign objects in the mechanism and no lubricant on the rope path.

During use:

It is important to regularly monitor the condition of the product and its connections to the other equipment in the system. Make sure that all items of equipment are correctly positioned with respect to each other. Verify that the carabiner is always loaded on the major axis. Verify that it is locked. Verify that the cam and the frame of the NEOX are able to move freely at all times.

4. Compatibility

Verify that this product is compatible with the other elements of the system in your application (compatible = good functional interaction).

Ropes:

Compatible with 8.5 to 11 mm diameter EN 892 dynamic single ropes and EN 1891 low-stretch kernmantle ropes. WARNING: commercially, nominal rope diameters have a tolerance of up to ±0.2 mm.

WARNING: low-stretch ropes are not designed for lead climbing. For lead climbing, use an EN 892 dynamic rope.

WARNING: the blocking effectiveness of the NEOX may be reduced when used with a new rope.

In general, blocking effectiveness and ease of giving slack can vary depending on the diameter, condition, state of wear, and surface treatment of your rope. Be vigilant and familiarize yourself with the belaying and lowering performance of your NEOX each time you use a rope other than the one you normally use.

• Thin ropes: require special precautions during use because they are harder to grip. They can be more difficult to control while lowering, rappelling or in the event of a fall. Using thin ropes with the NEOX requires greater vigilance and a high level of experience with belay techniques.
• Large-diameter ropes: ropes that are worn (swollen, stiff) or of large diameter can require more effort to give slack quickly.

WARNING: certain ropes can be slippery and reduce the blocking effectiveness of the NEOX (for example, ropes with sheath treatments, ropes that are new, icy, wet, muddy).

Attachment carabiner:

NEOX is compatible with Petzl locking carabiners (for example, Sm’D SCREW-LOCK) and directional carabiners (ATTACHE BAR SCREW-LOCK). If using any other carabiner, carry out a compatibility test (correct installation and functioning, and check for any possibility of poor positioning). Make sure that your carabiner does not impede the function of the NEOX, especially the cam's ability to move freely.

5. Function Principle and Test

Belaying:

When the rope is moving and not under tension, for example giving or taking up slack, the wheel can turn in both directions. If the user does not hold the brake side of the rope, the rope can slide through the device (for example, under its own weight).

Blocking:

When the climber falls, the hand holding the brake side of the rope initiates the blocking of the wheel: the rope tension makes the wheel move upward, which activates the internal stops that block its rotation. The NEOX then pivots on the carabiner, the cam pivots and the rope is blocked by being pinched between the two brake plates.

If the belayer does not hold the brake side of the rope, the rope tension is insufficient to raise the wheel and initiate blocking.

The cam and the frame of the NEOX must be able to move freely at all times. The NEOX must be free to rotate around the carabiner. Any obstruction of the device or cam will negate the blocking action on the rope.

Once the rope is blocked, continue to hold the brake side of the rope at all times to prevent any accidental unblocking in the event the climber moves.

Note: in certain cases, such as when taking up slack before holding the climber, the wheel may make a half-turn before blocking is engaged. This is normal operation.

Special cases:

WARNING: in certain cases, for example, belaying a very light climber, when there is significant rope drag or with an extra-friction system, the rope may run with no blocking assist. Holding the brake side of the rope then allows you to hold the climber and/or control their descent.

Function test:

Before each use, perform a function test to check that the rope is installed in the right direction, and that the NEOX is working properly.

6. Installing the NEOX

Use the markings on the product to help make sure the rope is installed in the proper direction. The blocking function and descent control will not work if the rope is installed in the wrong direction.

Partner check: the climber and belayer should carry out a mutual check of the belaying components (especially the harness, rope, NEOX, carabiner) before climbing.

7. Belaying Techniques

Precautions:

• Always hold the brake side of the rope: if the brake side of the rope is not held, there is a risk that the device will not block the rope. If the device does not block the rope, the climber is exposed to a risk of serious injury or death (for example, a fall to the ground).
• Do not obstruct the device or the cam with your hands: there is a risk of negating the blocking action on the rope.
• Take care to avoid any slack between your brake hand and the device, which could delay the blocking action on the rope.

7A. Primary Belaying Position

You must be specifically skilled in belay techniques before using the NEOX.

7B. Giving Slack

To facilitate feeding the rope, focus more on pushing the rope into the device than pulling it out (rotational movement). Anticipate clips by being attentive to the climber’s progress.

7C. Taking Up Slack

(Diagram shows the action of pulling rope through the device to reduce slack.)

7D. Catching a Fall

Tip for a dynamic belay: do a small jump, or step forward, to reduce the impact force on the climber.

8. Rappelling and Lowering

Precautions:

Always hold the brake side of the rope when operating the handle. If the brake side of the rope is not held, there is a risk of losing control of the descent. Operate the handle to gradually unblock the rope. The handle helps adjust the friction, but the descent is controlled by the hand gripping the brake side of the rope.

9. Hands-Free Situation

If you need to have your hands free (for example, to untangle the rope), tie a tight knot in the brake side of the rope, near the device. This knot will serve as a stop in case of rope slippage.

10. Additional Information

This product meets the requirements of Regulation (EU) 2016/425 on personal protective equipment. The EU declaration of conformity is available at Petzl.com.

• The Instructions for Use must be provided to the user of this equipment, in the language of the country where the equipment is used.
• Keep the Instructions for Use in a permanent file for reference after removing them from the equipment.

When to retire your equipment:

WARNING: an exceptional event can lead you to retire a product after only one use (depending on the type and intensity of usage, and the environment of usage, for example: harsh environments, marine environments, sharp edges, extreme temperatures, chemicals).

A product must be retired when:

• It has exceeded its lifespan.
• It has been subjected to a major fall or load.
• It fails to pass inspection. You have any doubt as to its reliability.
• You do not know its full usage history (e.g. an illegible product marking).
• It becomes obsolete (for example, due to changes in legislation, standards, technique or incompatibility with other equipment).

Destroy these products to prevent further use.

Icons:

• A. Unlimited lifespan
• B. Acceptable temperatures: -40°C/-40°F to +80°C/+176°F
• C. Usage precautions
• D. Cleaning: Max 30°C / 86°F
• E. Drying: Max 30°C / 86°F
• F. Storage/transport
• G. Maintenance
• H. Modifications/repairs (prohibited outside of Petzl facilities, except replacement parts)
• I. Questions/contact

3-year guarantee

Against any material or manufacturing defect. Exclusions: normal wear and tear, oxidation, modifications or alterations, incorrect storage, poor maintenance, negligence, uses for which this product is not designed.

Warning symbols:

• 1. Situation presenting an imminent risk of serious injury or death.
• 2. Exposure to a potential risk of accident or injury.
• 3. Important information on the functioning or performance of your product.
• 4. Equipment incompatibility.

Traceability and markings:

• a. Meets PPE regulatory requirements. Notified body performing the EU type examination.
• b. Number of the notified body responsible for the production control of this PPE.
• c. Traceability: datamatrix.
• d. Compatible diameter: 8.5 - 11 mm.
• e. Serial number.
• f. Year of manufacture.
• g. Month of manufacture.
• h. Batch number.
• i. Individual identifier.
• j. Standards: EN 15151-1, EN 1891.
• k. Read the Instructions for Use carefully.
• l. Model identification: NEOX®.
• m. Climber.
• n. Hand on brake side.
• o. Manufacturer address: Petzl, Cidex 105A, FR-38920 Crolles, France.
• p. Warning: always hold the brake side of the rope.

Diagram Descriptions

Partner Check:

Illustrates a four-step process for checking the belay system before climbing. This includes checking the harness, rope, belay device (NEOX), and carabiner connection.

Belaying Techniques:

• 7A. Primary Belaying Position: Shows the correct stance and hand position for the belayer, ensuring the brake strand is held securely.
• 7B. Giving Slack: Depicts the motion of feeding rope through the device, emphasizing pushing the rope into the device rather than pulling it out, using a rotational movement.
• 7C. Taking Up Slack: Illustrates the action of pulling rope through the device to reduce slack, maintaining control.
• 7D. Stopping a Fall: Shows how the device automatically blocks the rope during a fall. It advises a dynamic belay technique (slight jump/step forward) to reduce impact force on the climber.

8. Descending and Lowering:

Illustrates the operation of the handle to release the rope for controlled descent. Emphasizes maintaining a firm grip on the brake side of the rope throughout the process.

9. Hands-Free Situation:

Shows how to tie a tight knot in the brake strand of the rope near the device. This knot acts as a safety stop if hands need to be freed.

10. Additional Information Icons:

• A. Lifespan: Indicated as unlimited.
• B. Acceptable Temperatures: Shows a range from -40°C/-40°F to +80°C/+176°F.
• C. Usage Precautions: General safety advice.
• D. Cleaning: Recommended temperature (max 30°C / 86°F).
• E. Drying: Recommended temperature (max 30°C / 86°F).
• F. Storage - Transport: General guidelines for storage and transport.
• G. Maintenance: General guidelines for upkeep.
• H. Modifications - Repairs: Prohibited outside of Petzl facilities, except for replacement parts.
• I. FAQ - Contact: Information on where to get help or ask questions.

Technical Specifications & Manufacturer

Model: NEOX®

Certifications: CE 0082, EN 15151-1 type 6: 2012, UIAA

Manufacturer: Petzl

Address: Cidex 105A, FR-38920 Crolles, France

Website: Petzl.com

Quality Standard: ISO 9001

Product Code: D0035500A03 (050324)