PENTAIR RO2050 Reverse Osmosis System
Product Information
Specifications:
- Model: RO2050
- System Type: 4-Stage Reverse Osmosis
- Thin Film Membrane: OM1
- TDS: 2000 ppm
- Maximum Hardness: Sulfide, Iron, and Manganese: 10 gpg
Product Usage Instructions
Installation:
- Read through the installation instructions provided in the manual.
- Ensure your water supply meets the operating specifications mentioned.
- Gather all necessary tools for installation.
- Follow step-by-step instructions for installing the system components.
Maintenance:
- Regularly check and replace pre-and post-filter cartridges as recommended.
- Monitor system performance and conduct system tests periodically.
- Refer to the manual for troubleshooting tips in case of any issues.
Operating:
- Once installed, turn on the system and allow it to run through a flushing cycle as per instructions.
- Use the faucet provided with the system to access purified water.
- Ensure to follow any specific usage guidelines provided in the manual.
13845 Bishops Dr., Suite 200, Brookfield, WI 53005
Phone: 800.279.9404 • pentair.com
Tools and Materials Required
- Hand or electric drill
- Drill bits: 1/8″, 3/16″, 1/4″ and 3/8″
- Adjustable wrenches
- Pencil
- Slotted and Phillips screwdrivers
- Tape measure
- File
- Safety glasses
- Towel
- Utility knife
For sinks without extra hole for faucet: - Center punch
- Cone-shaped grinding wheel
- 1 1/4″ hole saw or drill bit
- Safety mask
NOTE: All tools may not be necessary for installation.
Read installation procedures before starting to determine what tools are necessary.
Parts Included
- Pre-assembled filter system (mounting bracket, membrane housing, membrane, preand postfilter housings and pre- and postfilter cartridges)
- Reverse osmosis membrane
- Inlet supply adapter
- Drain clamp
- 1/4″ and 3/8″ Tubing
- Tank valve
- Storage tank with stand
- Chrome faucet
- Feed tubing
- Housing wrenches
- Plumber tape
- TDS test kit
- Silicone
System Tested and Certified by NSF International against NSF/ANSI Standards 53 and 58 for the reduction of the claims specified on the Performance Data Sheet.
OPERATING SPECIFICATIONS
WARNING
Before installing this reverse osmosis system, make certain your water supply complies with the following operating specifications. Failure to do so may reduce the effectiveness of the system and will void the warranty.
- Thin Film Membrane: OM1
- Min/Max Pressure: 40–100 psi
- Min/Max Temperature: 40°F–100°F
- TDS: 2000 ppm
- Maximum Hardness†: 10 gpg
- Sulfide, Iron and Manganese‡: <0.1 ppm
- Chlorine in Water Supply: <2 ppm
- pH Limits: 3–11
- Flow Rate: 1 gpm
- Capacity 1,000 gallons
- Daily Product Water Rate: 9.85 gpd
- TDS Rejection: 96.7%
- Turbidity: 11 NTU Average
†If the hardness of your water is above 10 gpg, lime scale will build up rapidly on the membrane. Scale buildup will plug the membrane and make the system ineffective. We recommend the installation of a water softener in conjunction with the RO2050 System if your water hardness is above 10 gpg.
‡A maximum total level of approximately 0.01 ppm sulfide, iron or manganese is permissible. See your local dealer or water treatment specialist to reduce these substances in your water.
PRODUCTION CAPABILITIES
Tested by NSF International according to NSF/ANSI Standard 58 has given 9.85 gallons per day. Source water test parameters are 50 psig, 77°F, pH of 7.5 ±0.5 and 750 ppm total dissolved solids.
SYSTEM DIMENSIONS
- Overall Dimensions: 13 1/2″ W x 5 1/2″ D x 17 1/4″ H
- Weight: 17.3 lbs.
- Tank Dimensions: 13-1/2″ W x 9″ D x 9″ H
- Tank Capacity Max: 2.8 gal.
- Tank Air Pressure Empty: 5 to 7 psi
- Tank Weight (Full) 28.5 lbs
GENERAL PRECAUTIONS
WARNING
- Do not use with water that is microbiologically unsafe or of unknown quality without adequate disinfection before or after the system. Systems certified for cyst reduction may be used on disinfected waters that may contain filterable cysts.
- California Residents – Proposition 65 Warning – This product contains chemicals known to the State of California to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm.
CAUTION
- Filter must be protected against freezing, which can cause cracking of the filter and water leakage.
- Because of the product’s limited service life and to prevent costly repairs or possible water damage, we strongly recommend that the bottom of all plastic housings be replaced every five years for clear and ten years for opaque.
If the bottom of your housing has been in use for longer than this period, it should be replaced immediately. Date the bottom of any new or replacement housing to indicate the next recommended replacement date.
NOTE
- Your water must be within required limits for satisfactory operation. If not, your membrane life may be shortened and your warranty will be voided (see Specifications).
- We recommend the installation of a water softener in conjunction with the RO2050 System if your water hardness is above 10 gpg.
- This reverse osmosis system will not protect against disease-causing bacteria or remove naturally-occurring harmless bacteria.
- Install on cold water line only.
- Do not use wicking or sealer to fit connections into the cap of the filter. Plumber tape is recommended.
- Make certain that installation complies with all state and local laws and regulations.
- The replacement cartridges and reverse osmosis membrane included with this system have limited service lives. Changes in taste, odor, and color of the water being filtered indicate that the cartridge should be replaced (see Replacing the Prefilter and Postfilter Cartridges, and Replacing the 3rd Stage Reverse Osmosis Membrane).
- After prolonged periods of non-use (such as during a vacation) it is recommended that the system be flushed for 5 minutes before it is used.
- A drinking water cartridge may contain carbon fines (very fine black powder). After installation, flush the system for 5 minutes to remove the carbon fines before using the water.
- It is recommended that you run the tap at least 20 seconds prior to using water for drinking or cooking purposes.
- The contaminants or other substances removed or reduced by this water treatment device are not necessarily present in your water.
HOW REVERSE OSMOSIS (RO) WORKS
The RO2050 Reverse Osmosis (RO) System uses a semi-permeable membrane to reduce dissolved salts and minerals, improving the taste and odor of your water. The RO membrane is made of layers of micron-thin film wound around a hollow center core. Water molecules can pass through the membrane, but dissolved salts and minerals are rejected.
The RO2050 Reverse Osmosis System features 4-stage filter action. Your water supply is prefiltered to reduce dirt and chlorine that may foul the membrane. The RO membrane separates this prefiltered water into PRODUCT WATER and DRAIN or REJECT WATER. Incoming water pressure forces the product water through the membrane and into the storage tank. Dissolved solids and other contaminants cannot pass through the membrane and are sent to the drain as reject water. When you open the drinking water faucet, product water is drawn from the storage tank through an activated carbon postfilter, providing you with cleaner, great-tasting water.
For each gallon of water produced, several gallons are discharged as reject water. The storage tank can hold up to 2.8 gallons of water at a time, for drinking and cooking needs. When used under the Specifications, your Reverse Osmosis membranes should last 12-24 months.
INSTALLATION
- Read all installation and operating instructions before installing and using your RO system.
- For standard, under-sink installation on a 3/8″ steel, brass or copper cold water line.
- Carefully unpack unit and make sure all components are present. See check list below for the components included with your system.
What’s in the Box
Item | Qty | Description |
1 | 1 | Module |
2 | 2 | Housings |
3 | 1 | Storage tank and tank base |
4 | 1 | Sediment cartridge |
5 | 1 | Carbon block |
6 | 1 | RO membrane |
7 | 1 | Plastic bag with parts and faucet |
8 | 1 | Plastic bag with two O-rings and silicone packet |
If upon opening your unit you determine that a part is missing, DO NOT RETURN the unit to the store. Call 800-279-9404.
Install the Water Supply Adapter
- For standard under-sink installation on 1/2″ 14 NPS threads or 3/8″ x 3/8″ compression.
- Please read all instructions and precautions before installing and using your Filtration System.
- Numbered diagrams correspond with numbered steps.
The supply adapter fits 1/2″ - 14 NPS supply threads or 3/8″ x 3/8″ compression. If local codes permit, it may be used to connect the system to the cold water supply line. If local codes do not permit the use of the supply adapter, alternate connectors can be obtained from your local supplier.
- A) Turn off cold water supply line. If cold water line does not have a shut-off valve under the sink, you should install one.
- B) Turn on the cold water faucet and allow all water to drain from line.
- C) Disconnect riser cold water supply valve.
- D) Ensure the sealing gasket is fully seated into the feed adapter valve female thread.
- E) Install feed adapter valve onto supply valve. Hand tighten only.
- F) Connect the riser to the feed adapter valve.
NOTE
See Figures 1G-1H for configuring the feed adapter to 3/8″ x 3/8″ compression connections.
Selecting the Faucet Location
The drinking water faucet should be positioned with function, convenience, and appearance in mind. An adequate flat area is required to allow faucet base to rest securely. The faucet fits through a 1-3/8″ hole. Most sinks have pre-drilled 1-3/8″ or 1-1/2″ diameter holes that may be used for faucet installation. If these pre-drilled holes cannot be used or are in an inconvenient location, it will be necessary to drill a 1-3/8″ hole in the sink to accommodate the faucet.
WARNING
- This procedure may generate dust which can cause severe irritation if inhaled or come in contact with the eyes. The use of safety glasses and respirator for this procedure is recommended.
- Do not attempt to drill through an all-porcelain sink. If you have an all-porcelain sink, mount the faucet in pre-drilled sprayer hole or drill through countertop next to sink.
- When drilling through a countertop, make sure the area below the drilled area is free of wiring and piping. Make certain that you have ample room to make the proper connections to the bottom of the faucet.
- Do not drill through a countertop that is more than 1″ thick.
WARNING
Do not attempt to drill through a tiled, marble, granite or similar countertop. Consult a plumber or the countertop manufacturer for advice or assistance.
- A) Line the bottom of the sink with newspaper to help prevent debris, parts or tools from falling into drain.
- B) Place masking tape over area to be drilled to help prevent scratches if drill bit slips.
- C) Mark hole with a center punch. Use a 1/4″ drill bit to drill the pilot hole.
- D) Use a 1-3/8″ drill bit and drill a hole completely through the sink.
- E) Smooth rough edges with a file.
Mounting the Faucet
- A) Remove faucet base from faucet by twisting base 1/4 turn. The rubber washer should be in place below the base. The two toggle bolts should be inserted through the base and the rubber washer. The bolts are screwed into the spring-loaded toggle.
- B) Place the base assembly over the hole in the sink. The two toggles should pass through the hole far enough to spring fully open. If they are not open, unscrew the bolt until the toggle moves down to clear the sink.
- C) Look down through the base for this step. Before tightening the bolts, determine the correct rotation of the base. The final position of the handle will be 45 degrees off from the bolt heads. Use Figure 5 to help determine the best position for your installation.
Through the hole in the base, hold the toggle in position while tightening the bolt. The spring loaded toggle will contact the bottom of the counter top and hold in position. Do not fully tighten. Repeat for second toggle bolt.
Check the final position of the base and toggle bolts. Tighten the two bolts evenly. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Tighten only far enough to prevent the base from rotating when the faucet is rotated in place. - D) Attach large diameter 3/8″ (red) drain tube to the larger barb fitting at the faucet bottom. This tube should be long enough to reach the drain clamp in Step 5.
- E) Attach small diameter 1/4″ (red) brine tube to other barb fitting at faucet bottom. This tube should be long enough to reach the right side of the head assembly without kinking or stressing.
- F) Locate blue plastic tubing. Slide the compression nut onto the tubing, followed by the white plastic ferrule. The long tapered end of the ferrule should face towards the end of the tubing and the tubing should extend through the ferrule about 1/4″. Place white insert into end of tubing.
- G) Insert white plastic tubing into the threaded shaft from the faucet and hand tighten the compression nut. Using a wrench, tighten nut 1 to 1-1/2 turns.
- H) Check that the O-ring is in place on the faucet. Feed the three tubes throught the base. Hold the faucet in the final position and rotate backwards (to the left) while pushing down. The faucet will drop into the base. Push down on the faucet and rotate forward (to the right) to lock it into final position. The O-ring will be seated and the faucet held securely in position.
- I) Insert the spout into the top opening. Hold in position and screw the collar onto the base.
NOTE: If the faucet handle is not in the correct position, remove the faucet, loosen the toggle bolts and reposition the base. Tighten the toggle bolts. Then reinstall the faucet.
Installing the Drain Clamp
NOTE:
If you have a single-basin sink with a disposal unit, call Customer Support for options.
NOTE: Before installing the drain clamp, check the drainpipes under the sink for corrosion. Corroded pipes should be replaced before continuing with installation.
- A) Attach the drain clamp to a vertical section of the drainpipe, about 6″ above the trap. Make sure the opening on the drain clamp is facing towards the drinking water faucet.
- B) Using the fitting hole of the drain clamp as a guide, drill a 1/4″ hole through one side of the drainpipe.
- C) Remove the drain clamp from the drainpipe and enlarge the hole with a 3/8″ drill bit. Use a file to remove rough edges from the drilled hole.
- D) Make sure the black rubber gasket is adhered to the inside of the drain clamp and place the drain clamp assembly over the drilled hole. Look through the hole and position the clamp so that the center of the clamp hole is slightly higher (about 1/16″) than the center of the drilled hole. (See Figure 8). Tighten the clamp securely.
- E) Screw the plastic compression nut onto the drain clamp until hand-tight.
Installing the Filter Housings and Cartridges
- A) Locate two black rubber O-rings and silicone grease in plastic bag.
- B) Lubricate each O-ring with a coating of clean silicone grease. With two fingers, press each O-ring securely into the groove below the threads of each housing.
CAUTION
The rubber O-ring provides the water-tight seal between the cap and the bottom of the housing. It is improtant that the O-ring be properly seated in the groove below the threads of the housing or a water leak could occur. - C) Unwrap cartridges and insert in the bottom of the housings. Make sure cartridge slips over standpipe in the bottom of the housing.
NOTE: Be sure to install cartridges in proper housings (see Figure 10). - D) Screw housings onto unit and HAND TIGHTEN ONLY. Do not over-tighten. Do not use the wrench or other mechanical devices. The wrench that is provided in the package is only to loosen the housing when it is time to change the cartridges.
Connecting the Faucet to the Drain
NOTE: This is a gravity drain line. Any loops, kinks or sharp bends must be eliminated before proceeding. Failure to create a straight line to the drain may result in reject water leaking through the air gap in the faucet onto the counter top and below the faucet.
- A) Align the 3/8″ red tubing from the faucet with the compression nut on the drain clamp. Create as straight a path as possible with the tubing. Cut the tubing squarely below the nut and remove the internal and external burrs.
- B) Loosen the compression nut two complete turns. Insert the tubing into the nut until it stops. Tighten with fingers, then tighten 1 to 2 turns with a wrench.
Installation of Mounting Screws
- A) If system is being installed under the kitchen sink, locate it on back or right wall. Make sure to allow ample space for installation (Figure 11). To change the filter cartridges, a minimum of 1-1/2″ of clearance is required underneath the filter housings. A minimum of 2″ of clearance from the left side of the unit is also required or 5″ from the left bracket mounting screw hole.
- B) Install mounting screws at least 15″ from cabinet floor and 7-1/2″ apart. Leave a 5/16″ space between the head of the screw and the wall to slip bracket onto screws.
NOTE: Each connection fitting on the RO Assembly has a plug that must be removed before inserting tubing. Push in on the collar and pull the plug out.
Connecting the Faucet to the System
- A) Locate the red (1/4″) tubing (reject water line) from the drinking water faucet.
This tube is the smaller of the red tubes. Place a mark on the tubing 5/8″ from the end. Moisten the end of the tubing with water and insert tubing into the quick-connect fitting on the flow restrictor found on the right side of system behind the membrane.
If tubing is not firmly connected, leaking will occur. It is important for the tubing to be inserted all the way until the mark is flush with the outer edge of the quickconnect insert.
NOTE: Tubing and sanitary inserts may be quickly and easily removed from the fitting if necessary by pressing the collar around the fitting then pulling the tubing with your other hand. - B) Insert the 1/4″ blue tube from the faucet into the postfilter. The fitting is at the top left of the RO System.
Connecting the Storage Tank to the System
CAUTION: When tank is full, it weighs approximately 28.5 pounds. Provide ample support under the tank.
- A) Remove sanitary cap from top of tank and apply 3 or more wraps of plumber tape to threads on tank. Thread the tank valve onto the top of the tank opening and then tighten 1-1/2 to 2 turns with a wrench. Turn tank so handle is in line with tubing.
CAUTION: The tank /valve connection will leak if not properly sealed. Plumber tape will normally seal the threaded connection. - B) Locate the green 1/4″ tubing. Place a mark on the tubing 5/8″ from each end.
Moisten one end of the tubing with water and insert with a twisting motion into the port of the tank valve until the 5/8″ mark is flush with the quick connect fitting. Then locate the tank near the system’s installation area.
C) Cut the tubing to correct length. Install free end of tubing into white quickconnect fitting on the post filter tee on the right side. Do not cut tubing.
D) Place entire system over mounting screws on wall and slide down.
CAUTION: Make certain system is firmly attached to wall to prevent it from falling and possibly becoming damaged.
NOTE: Use caution not to bend or pinch the tubing behind the system while attaching to mounting screws.
Connecting the Supply Adapter and Inlet Filter
- A) Locate remaining length of white 1/4″ plastic tubing.
- B) Push into quick connect fitting on the right side of system.
- C) Cut the tube to a length that will allow connection to the cold water supply fitting. Ensure the tubing does not kink. Push the tube into the fitting.
Installing the Membrane
- A) Remove tube attached to membrane housing by pressing in the white collar around the fitting while pulling the tubing with your other hand.
- B) Hold the membrane housing with one hand and turn the cap (wrench provided) with other hand to remove. To make it easier to hold the membrane housing, you may want to remove the postfilter.
With clean hands (sanitary gloves preferred), remove the membrane from the plastic bag. HANDLE WITH CARE.
CAUTION: Do not unwrap the tape around the membrane, as it is part of the membrane. Do not squeeze membrane. - C) Use clean silicone grease (pack is included with the system) to lubricate both O-rings and the brine seal.
- D) With the double O-ring side first, push membrane into housing until it stops.
About 1/8″ of the membrane’s plastic core will stick out beyond the housing. - E) Hand-tighten membrane housing cap until you feel resistance, then tighten an additional 1/2 turn. Do not over-tighten.
- F) Reinsert the tube by pushing it into the quick connect fitting.
Faucet Operation
- A) For water flow, rotate the handle 1/4-turn until it stops.
System Start-up
NOTE:
- The reverse osmosis membrane is treated with a food grade sanitizing agent that may cause an undesirable taste. Although it is not harmful, it should be flushed from the system.
- The post-polishing filter may contain fine black carbon particles. These fines are harmless, but may make the water appear gray in color. The carbon fines are flushed from the system with the first tank full of water.
- The RO system does not produce a high volume of water on demand as an ordinary filter does. Water is produced at a slow, drop-by-drop rate. The system requires about 2 to 4 hours to fill the storage tank. As water is taken from the tank, the system automatically starts the cycle of replacing the water and then stops water production when the tank is full.
CAUTION
Visually check the entire system for leaks. If a leak is present, see Troubleshooting.
- A) Turn off valve at top of storage tank.
- B) Turn on the cold water supply.
- C) Turn the faucet handle 1/4 turn to the open position and let it drip for 30 minutes.
- D) Completely open the cold water supply until it comes to a stop. Allow water to drip from the faucet for 24 more hours. Then close the faucet and open the valve on the storage tank. The tank valve is open when the handle lines up with the tubing connection.
NOTE: In the normal production of this membrane the use of different materials and preservatives are used to ensure optimal shelf life of the unit. As with any drinking water filtration product, we recommend a thorough 24 hour flush of this element to ensure optimal taste and water quality. - E) Allow 3 hours for the tank to fill. Again, periodically check the installation for leaks. After the storage tank is filled, open the faucet to flush the post-polishing filter. Allow 4 to 5 minutes for all of the water to drain from the tank.
- F) Close faucet and allow tank to fill.
- G) Repeat steps E and F four times.
NOTE: Initially, the water may appear cloudy. This is a result of air trapped in the post-polishing filter. It is not harmful and will disappear in a matter of minutes. It may take up to a week after installing a new post-polishing filter for the trapped air to dissipate.
For California Residents
In your installation kit you will find a label that needs to be applied to your unit.
This label is required by California HSC Section 116835 and should be applied to your unit after installation.
The system is ready for operation. You can now enjoy quality water from your Reverse Osmosis System.
TESTING YOUR REVERSE OSMOSIS SYSTEM
- Model RO2050 Reverse Osmosis System
- Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Test
NOTE: Under NSF/ANSI Standard 58, it is highly recommended that you (the consumer) have your water tested at least every 6 months to verify that your system is performing satisfactorily.
Sampling Instructions:
Sampling instructions are included with the Total Dissolved Solids (TDS) Test Kit.
OPTIONAL INSTALLATION
Connecting your Reverse Osmosis System to Refrigerator Icemaker /Water Dispenser
CAUTION:
- If you are connecting this unit to your refrigerator icemaker/water dispenser with initial RO installation, wait to turn on the icemaker until the postpolishing filter has been flushed according to Step 12.
- Use plastic tubing and fittings. Do not use copper tubing or brass fittings.
NOTE: For optimum performance, it is recommended that the distance between the RO system and the refrigerator icemaker/water dispenser be no greater than 10 feet. At distances greater than 10 feet, the water pressure from the system may not be adequate to deliver water to the refrigerator.
MATERIALS REQUIRED (available from your local hardware store):
- 1/4″ x 1/4″ x 1/4″ compression or quick-connect tee
- 10 feet of 1/4″ polyethylene tubing
- Shut-off valve
- Turn off refrigerator water supply and icemaker (consult manufacturer’s guidelines).
- Close tank valve (on top of storage tank).
- Turn off water to RO system at the cold water supply.
- Open drinking water faucet to relieve pressure.
- Locate tubing (permeate) leading to your drinking water faucet. Cut and insert the 1/4″ x 1/4″ x 1/4″ compression or quick-connect tee into the permeate tubing. Consult manufacturer’s guidelines before installing the supply adapter.
NOTE: When cutting the permeate tubing, you may experience some water leakage. - Using a length of 1/4″ polyethylene tubing, connect the icemaker/dispenser line with the free port on the compression tee.
- The shut-off valve should be installed as close to this port of the tee as possible. Shut-off valve should be installed in the OFF position. Consult manufacturer’s guidelines before installing the shut-off valve.
- Completely open cold water supply.
- Open tank valve.
- Turn off the drinking water faucet.
- Turn on water to RO system at cold water supply.
- Turn on icemaker and open shut-off valve. Consult manufacturer’s instructions.
- Check for leaks and tighten connections if necessary.
REPLACING THE PREFILTER AND POSTFILTER CARTRIDGES
1st Stage Prefilter and 2nd Stage Prefilter Cartridges:
The cartridge should be replaced every six months. If your water contains a high amount of sediment, it may be necessary to change the 1st stage cartridge more frequently. If your water contains a high amount of chlorine, it may be necessary to change the 2nd stage prefilter more often.
- Turn off incoming water supply and valve on the storage tank. Place a tray under the system to catch any water that spills during removal of the filter housings.
- Open faucet to release pressure.
- Unscrew bottom of filter housings from caps. Use the filter wrench. Discard used cartridges.
- Remove black rubber O-rings from grooves in housings. Wipe grooves and O-rings clean; set O-rings aside.
- Rinse out housings and fill each 1/3 with water. Add 2 tablespoons of bleach and scrub with non-abrasive brush or sponge. Rinse thoroughly.
- Lubricate each O-ring with a coating of clean silicone grease. With two fingers, press each O-ring securely into groove below the threads of the appropriate housing.
CAUTION: The rubber O-ring provides the watertight seal between the cap and the bottom of the housing. It is important that the O-ring be properly seated in the groove below the threads of the housing or a water leak could occur. - Insert cartridges in the bottom of the housings. Make sure cartridge slips over standpipe in the bottom of the housing.
NOTE: Be sure to install cartridges in proper housings (see diagram below). - Screw bottoms of housings back onto caps securely; do not over-tighten.
Turn on cold water supply. Check for leaks. Continue to check periodically to make sure no leaks develop.
4th Stage Postfilter Cartridge: postfilter should be replaced every twelve months.
- Turn off incoming water supply and valve on the storage tank. Place a tray under the system to catch any water that spills during removal of the filter housings.
- Open faucet to release pressure.
- Remove filter from bracket and discard.
- Remove tubes from fittings by pressing in collar around the fitting while pulling the tubing out with your other hand.
NOTE: The filter has an arrow on it showing the direction of flow.
The tee fitting connects to the inlet side of the filter and the elbow fitting attaches to the outlet side.
NOTE: Hand tighten fittings, then tighten with wrench 1/4 turn. - Attach 4th stage filter to bracket with the tee fitting on the right hand side.
- Attach tubes to fittings by pushing in until the tube stops. Check to see if tube is in place by trying to gently pull tube out.
REPLACING THE 3RD STAGE REVERSE OSMOSIS MEMBRANE
About the Reverse Osmosis Membrane
When used under operating conditions specified on page 1 of the manual, your reverse osmosis membrane should last at least one year. You should replace the membrane after 18 to 24 months. Replace it sooner if you notice a return of unpleasant tastes or odors or a noticeable decline in water production. The precise life span of your system’s membrane will depend on the quality of the water entering the system and the frequency with which you use it. Frequent system use prevents the filtered salts and minerals from building up on the membrane as scale. The more water the system is required to produce, the longer the membrane will last. You may wish to find a variety of uses for your system in order to prolong the life of the membrane.
During extended periods of non-use (such as during a vacation), remove the membrane from the membrane housing and place it in a sealed plastic bag. Store membrane in refrigerator for future use. DO NOT FREEZE.
NOTE: If system stands for more than 2 to 3 days without being used, the storage tank should be emptied.
Replacing the Membrane and Sanitizing the System and Filters
NOTE: It is recommended that you sanitize the system each time you change the membrane. It is not necessary to sanitize the system when changing only the prefilters or postfilter.
NOTE: When installing a new membrane, it is recommended that you replace the prefilter and postfilter cartridges as well.
Removing the Membrane and Filters
- Turn off the cold water supply. Allow five minutes for system to depressurize.
Place a tray under the system to catch any water that spills during removal of the filter housings. - Open drinking water faucet to drain tank. When tank is drained, close faucet.
- Disconnect tubing from the membrance cap. Hold the membrane housing with one hand and remove the membrane cap with the other hand.
- To remove the RO membrane, grasp membrane tube with pliers and pull.
Discard old membrane. Screw cap back onto membrane housing. DO NOT install new membrane. - Unscrew filter housings from caps and discard used cartridges.
- Remove black rubber O-rings from grooves in housings. Wipe grooves and O-rings clean; set O-rings aside.
Sanitizing the System - Rinse out bottom of housings and fill each 1/3 with water. Add 2 tablespoons of household bleach to each housing and scrub cap, bottom of housings, and membrane housing with non-abrasive sponge or cloth. Rinse thoroughly.
- Lubricate O-rings with a coating of clean silicone grease. With two fingers, press each O-ring securely into groove below the threads of the appropriate housing.
CAUTION: The rubber O-ring provides the water-tight seal between the cap and the bottom of the housing. It is important that the O-ring be properly seated in the groove below the threads of the housing or a water leak could occur. - Screw bottom of housing onto caps WITHOUT inserting prefilters and handtighten.
Do not over-tighten. - Hand-tighten membrane housing cap until you feel resistance, then tighten an additional 1/2 turn. Do not over-tighten.
- Reinsert the tube by pushing it into the quick connect fitting.
- Open the cold water supply and let the system run for 2 to 3 minutes to carry the bleach solution throughout the system.
- Close the cold water supply and turn on the drinking water faucet. Let the faucet run for about 30 seconds before turning off.
- Let the entire system stand for 30 minutes to sanitize.
- After 30 minutes, turn on the drinking water faucet to allow the bleach water to run out (about 3 to 5 minutes).
- Unscrew bottom of housings. Discard bleach water and rinse.
Replacing the Membrane and Filter Cartridges
- To replace the filters, see Replacing the Prefilters and Postfilter.
- To replace the membrane, see Step 12: Installing the Membrane.
NOTE: After installing new membrane and cartridges, allow system to run for 3 hours to fill tank. Check for leaks every hour. As pressure builds in tank, leaks may occur that did not exist directly after installation.
When the membrane and cartridges have been changed, follow the system startup procedure in Step 14: System Start-up.
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
Leaks between bottom of housing and cap
- Ensure sump is tightly screwed to cap. If it still leaks close the cold water supply and tank valves.
- Clean black rubber O-ring and lubricate with clean silicone grease. With two fingers, insert O-ring in groove below threads of housing and press into place. Tighten housing back onto cap.
- Open the cold water supply and tank valve. If leaks persist, call Technical Support.
Leaks on tank valve assembly
- Open drinking water faucet to drain storage tank. Let drinking water faucet run until it drips. Turn off cold water supply.
- Push in on white collar of tank valve fitting and pull out tubing. Unscrew the tank valve from the storage tank. Rewrap threads on top of the tank with plumber tape. Screw tank valve back onto tank. Trim 1/2″ from end of tubing and reinsert 5/8″ into tank valve fitting.
- Open the cold water supply and shut off the reverse osmosis faucet. Let the system pressurize for several hours and check for leaks. Check again after tank is fully pressurized.
Leaks on quick-connect fittings
- Close the cold water supply and tank valve.
- Depress plastic collar and pull out tubing.
- Cut off 1″ of tubing and place a mark 5/8″ from end of tubing. Tubing should be cut squarely. The internal and external burrs should be removed.
- Push tubing 5/8″ into fitting.
- Open the cold water supply and tank valve. If leaks persist, call Technical Support.
No flow or slow flow from the brine (drain) line Less than 1½ cups per minute
NOTE: Before checking brine (or reject) flow, make sure the system is producing water by turning off the valve on the storage tank and opening the faucet. Water should drip from faucet.
- Examine the RS14 and CB1 prefilters. If clogged, replace (see Replacing the Prefilter and Postfilter) and recheck the brine (or reject) flow rate.
- If the prefilters are not at fault, the brine (or drain) flow controller is probably clogged. Call Technical Support.
High TDS in Product Water
If high levels of TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) are detected in your product water (approximately 30% or greater of what is measured in your tap water, as determined with a conductivity meter or by the supplied TDS Test Kit), the RO membrane may need to be replaced, or the brine (or drain) flow control tubing may be clogged.
Reduced production
Slow or no product water flow usually indicates either a clogged prefilter or an exhausted membrane. First, replace the prefilters. If the production rate is not improved, replace membrane.
Gradual return of taste and odor Gradual return of unpleasant taste and odor over a period of time may indicate that your filter cartridges and/or RO membrane need to be replaced. See Replacing the Prefilters and Replacing the Reverse Osmosis Membrane.
Sudden return of taste and odor
If shortly after complete servicing noticeable taste and odors return, contact Technical Support.
No water pressure from the drinking water faucet or low volume in storage tank
- Close the cold water supply to system.
- Lift storage tank to see if it is empty. If not, open the drinking water faucet to empty water from tank.
NOTE: It may be necessary to pump a small amount of air into the tank with a bicycle pump to remove all the water from the tank. - When tank is empty, use a pressure gauge to check tank pressure. An empty tank should contain 5 to 7 psi pressure. Increase or decrease the air pressure in the tank accordingly.
- Open cold water supply. Let system run for 3 hours to fill tank, then check system performance. If performance has not improved, call Technical Support.
PERFORMANCE DATA
Important Notice: Read this performance data and compare the capabilities of this system with your actual water treatment needs. It is recommended that before installing a water treatment system, you have your water supply tested to determine your actual water treatment needs.
This system has been tested according to NSF/ANSI 53 and 58 for the reduction of the substances listed below. The concentration for the indicated substances in water entering the system was reduced to a concentration less than or equal to the permissible limit for water leaving the system, as specified in NSF/ANSI 53 and 58.
NOTE: Substances reduced are not necessarily in your water. Filter must be maintained according to manufacturer’s instructions, including replacement of filter cartridges.
Testing was performed under standard laboratory conditions. Actual performance may vary.
The tested efficiency rating for this system is 6.20%. Efficiency rating means the percentage of the influent water to the system that is available to the user as reverse osmosis treated water under operating conditions that approximate typical daily usage. The tested recovery rating is 14.57%. Recovery rating means the percentage of the influent water to the membrane portion of the system that is available to the user as reverse osmosis treated water when the system is operated without a storage tank or when the storage tank is bypassed.
NOTE: This reverse osmosis system contains a replaceable component critical to the efficiency of the system. Replacement of the reverse osmosis component should be with one of identical specifications, as defined by the manufacturer, to ensure the same efficienty and contaminant reduction performance.
The RO2050 has been tested for the treatment of water containing pentavalent arsenic [also known as As(V), As(+5), or arsenate] at concentrations of 0.050 mg/L or less. This system reduces pentavalent arsenic, but may not remove other forms of arsenic. This system is to be used on water supplies containing a detectable free chlorine residual or on water supplies that have been demonstrated to contain only pentavalent arsenic. Treatment with chloramine (combined chlorine) is not sufficient to ensure complete conversion of trivalent arsenic to pentavalent arsenic. Please see the Arsenic Facts section of the Performance Data Sheet for further information.
Model RO2050
Substance |
Average Influent Concentration |
Maximum Permissible Product Water Concentration |
Reduction Requirements |
Average Reduction |
Standard 58 | ||||
Arsenic (Pentavalent) | 0.050 mg/L ± 10% | 0.010 mg/L | 96.2% | |
Barium | 10.0 mg/L ± 10% | 2.0 mg/L | 99.0% | |
Cadmium | 0.03 mg/L ± 10% | 0.005 mg/L | 97.2% | |
Chromium (Hexavalent) | 0.3 mg/L ± 10% | 0.1 mg/L | 96.5% | |
Chromium (Trivalent) | 0.3 mg/L ± 10% | 0.1 mg/L | 99.4% | |
Copper | 3.0 mg/L ± 10% | 1.3 mg/L | 98.4% | |
Fluoride | 8.0 mg/L ± 10% | 1.5 mg/L | 94.8% | |
Lead | 0.15 mg/L ± 10% | 0.010 mg/L | 97.7% | |
Radium 226/228 | 25 pCi/L ± 10% | 5 pCi/L | 80.0% | |
Selenium | 0.10 mg/L ± 10% | 0.05 mg/L | 97.8% | |
Turbidity | 11 NTU ± 1 NTU | 0.5 NTU | 99.1% | |
Total Dissolved Solids | 750 mg/L ± 40 mg/L | 187 mg/L | 96.7% | |
Standard 53 | ||||
Cysts* | Minimum
50,000/mL |
99.95% | 99.99% |
*NSF/ANSI Standard 53 certified to reduce cysts such as Cryptosporidium and Giardia by mechanical means.
EPA Est. 082989-CHN-001
Arsenic Fact Sheet
Arsenic (abbreviated As) is found naturally in some well water. Arsenic in water has no color, taste or odor. It must be measured by a lab test. Public water utilities must have their water tested for arsenic. You can get the results from your water utility. If you have your own well, you can have the water tested. The local health department or state environmental health agency can provide a list of certified labs. There are two forms of arsenic: pentavalent arsenic [also called As(V), As(+5), and arsenate] and trivalent arsenic [also called As(III), As(+3) and arsenite]. In well water, arsenic may be pentavalent, trivalent, or a combination of both. Special sampling procedures are needed for a lab to determine what type and how much of each type of arsenic is in the water. Check with the labs in your area to see if they can provide this type of service. Reverse osmosis (RO) water treatment systems do not remove trivalent arsenic from water very well.
RO systems are very effective at removing pentavalent arsenic. A free chlorine residual will rapidly convert trivalent arsenic to pentavalent arsenic. Other water treatment chemicals such as ozone and potassium permanganate will also change trivalent arsenic to pentavalent arsenic. A combined chlorine residual (also called chloramine) may not convert all the trivalent arsenic. If you get your water from a public water utility, contact the utility to find out if free chlorine or combined chlorine is used in the water system. The RO2050 system is designed to remove pentavalent arsenic. It will not convert trivalent arsenic to pentavalent arsenic. The system was tested in a lab. Under those conditions, the system reduced 0.050 mg/L (ppm) pentavalent arsenic to 0.010 mg/L (ppm)(the USEPA standard for drinking water) or less. The performance of the system may be different at your installation. Have the treated water tested for arsenic to check if the system is working properly. The RO component of the RO2050 system must be replaced every 12-24 months to ensure the system will continue to remove pentavalent arsenic. The component identification and locations where you can purchase the component are listed in the installation/operation manual.
REPLACEMENT PARTS
For replacement parts contact your nearest OMNIFILTER retailer or call 1-800-279-9404.
Item # |
Part Number |
Description |
QTY |
1 | 244796 | Drain Clamp | 1 |
2 | 4004898 | Inlet Supply Adapter | 1 |
3 | 244857 | Faucet | 1 |
4 | 153049 | Housing | 2 |
5 | 244794 | 1/4″ White Tubing | 1 |
6 | 244875 | 1/4″ Red Tubing | 1 |
7 | EV544700 | 1/4″ Blue Tubing | 1 |
8 | 244850 | 1/4″ Green Tubing | 1 |
9 | 244849 | 3/8″ Red Tubing | 1 |
10 | 144604 | Tank Valve (1/4″ NPT x 1/4″ QC) | 1 |
11 | 244833 | Storage Tank | 1 |
12 | 244785 | Tank Stand | 1 |
13 | RS14 | 1st Stage Sediment Prefilter | 1 |
14 | CB1 | 2nd Stage Prefilter | 1 |
15 | OM1 | 3rd Stage RO Membrane | 1 |
16 | R200 | 4th Stage Postfilter | 1 |
17 | OW30 | Wrench | 1 |
18 | SZ12200338 | RO Housing Wrench | 1 |
19 | 143495 | Silicone | 1 |
20 | 244787 | Valve Auto Shut-off | 1 |
21 | 2GA-MH-EG25 | Membrane Housing | 1 |
22 | 150646 | TDS Test Kit | 1 |
* | 243250 | Screw Kit | 1 |
* | 244885 | Plumber Tape | 1 |
* | 244944 | Housing O-ring Kit for 153049 Housings | 1 |
Limited 3 Year Warranty
Pentair Residential Filtration, LLC (herein after PRF) warrants to the original owner, that (under normal use): Product or part to be free from defects in material and/or workmanship for three (3) years from the date of purchase. Any replacement products furnished will be free from material defects in materials and workmanship for the remainder of the original warranty period. This warranty does not cover: (1) filter cartridges (2) damage due to lightning or other conditions beyond the control of PRF (3) defects not reported within the above stated time periods, (4) items manufactured by other companies, (5) problems arising from failure to comply with PRF instructions, (6) problems and/or damage arising from acts of nature, abuse, misuse, negligence or accident by any party other than PRF, (7) problems and/or damage resulting in whole or in part from alteration, modification, repair or attempted alteration, modification or repair by any party other than PRF, (8) noncompliance with applicable codes/ordinances.
If a defect in workmanship or materials in a product or part covered by the warranty should arise, PRF, at its sole discretion, will repair or replace the defective product or part (PRF may consider, in good faith, the customer’s preference).
All claimed defective product must: (1) be authorized for return by PRF with a Return Goods Authorization number (2) include proof of the purchase date of the product or part (3) returned to PRF prior to the expiration of the applicable warranty period, at the customer’s expense, shipment pre-paid, (4) be accompanied by a letter detailing the Model Number, Serial Number (if any), and a brief description of the problem.
TO THE MAXIMUM EXTENT PERMITTED BY APPLICABLE LAW, PRF DISCLAIMS ALL OTHER WARRANTIES, WHETHER EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, THE IMPLIED WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY AND FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE, WITH REGARD TO THE PRODUCTS, PARTS AND ANY ACCOMPANYING WRITTEN MATERIALS.
To the maximum extent permitted by applicable law, PRF shall not be liable for any damages whatsoever (including, but not limited to, loss of time, inconvenience, expenses, labor or material charges incurred in connection with the removal or replacement of the product or part, special, incidental, consequential, or indirect damages for personal injury, loss of business profits, business interruption, loss of business information, or any other pecuniary loss) arising out of the use of or inability to use the defective products or parts, even if PRF has been advised of the possibility of such damages.
PRF’s maximum liability under any provision of this Limited Warranty shall be limited to the amount actually paid for the product or parts.
NOTE: Because some states do not allow the exclusion or limitation of incidental or consequential damages, the above limitations or exclusions may not apply.
THIS WARRANTY GRANTS SPECIFIC LEGAL RIGHTS, AND OTHER RIGHTS MAY APPLY. SUCH RIGHTS VARY FROM STATE TO STATE.
For Pentair Product Warranties visit: Pentair.com/assets/residential-filtration-warranty
13845 Bishops Dr. | Suite 200 | Brookfield, WI 53005 | United States
P: 262.238.4400 | Customer Service: 800.279.9404 | tech-support@pentair.com | pentair.com
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FAQs
Q: How often should I replace the membrane?
A: The membrane replacement frequency varies based on usage and water quality. It is recommended to check and replace the membrane as needed or as per the manual’s guidelines.
Q: What should I do if the system is not producing enough purified water?
A: Check for clogs in the filters, ensure proper water pressure,and verify all connections are secure. If issues persist, refer to the troubleshooting section in the manual or contact Customer Service for assistance.
Documents / Resources
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PENTAIR RO2050 Reverse Osmosis System [pdf] Instruction Manual RO2050 Reverse Osmosis System, RO2050, Reverse Osmosis System, Osmosis System |