GoWesty AUX-700 Auxiliary Battery Kit Installation Guide

Introduction

This kit is designed to add an auxiliary battery under the driver's seat of 1983-1991 Vanagon Westfalia full campers. It allows for the use of a Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePo) battery or a traditional Lead Acid battery. The kit will rewire the sink, 12V outlet on the dashboard, radio, interior lights, and clock to the auxiliary battery. This enables these items to be used without discharging the primary starting battery.

Important Note: This installation involves cutting and splicing factory wiring. If you are not comfortable with automotive electrical work, it is recommended to seek assistance from a qualified automotive electrician. Incorrect wiring can be hazardous.

Safety First: A battery can produce significant current. Always be careful not to short the battery terminals. Cross out any sections that do not apply to your specific Vanagon model year.

Charging Circuit: The charging circuit for the second battery is limited to 50 amps. Avoid drawing more than 50 amps from the auxiliary battery when the engine is running, as this will trip the circuit breaker. High-draw accessories should be connected directly to the primary battery.

Tools Required:

• 10mm & 13mm Combination Wrenches
• Drill with 2" or Longer #2 Phillips Bit
• Phillips Head Screwdriver
• Wire Stripper/Crimper
• Electrical Tape
• Sand Paper
• Pliers

Hardware/Parts List:

• Self-Tapping Screws
• Fused Power Wire
• Battery Bracket(s)
• Rubber Grommet
• Wago Lever Nut
• Circuit Breaker
• Solenoid

Recommendation: For best results, watch the GoWesty installation video before beginning.

Prepare for Installation

1. Disconnect the negative terminal of the primary battery.
2. Remove the driver's seat. Slide the seat forward, release the track, and slide it off. Be mindful of sharp edges and pinch points. Having a helper is recommended.
3. If your Vanagon has a swivel seat, rotate the seat platform 180 degrees or remove the four 8mm nuts securing it. Open the lid of the compartment behind the seat. Taping the lid open can be helpful.

Install the Solenoid and Circuit Breaker

1. Remove the stock relay located under the driver's seat, leaving the wires connected.
2. Determine the optimal location for your battery, solenoid, and circuit breaker. If installing the battery under the driver's seat, use the hold-down bracket to confirm the placement.
3. Install the solenoid and circuit breaker using the provided self-tapping screws. Ensure the mounting surface is clean and free of paint where the solenoid contacts the metal for a proper ground connection.

Wiring Connections

For 1986-1991 Vanagon Models (Connect to Fusebox):

1. Route the long fused red wire under the pedestal and through the grommet to the fusebox area. This wire will connect to the auxiliary battery's positive terminal.
2. Remove the fuse panel. Locate wiring block "B". Cut wires from locations B11 and B12 approximately 1" from the fuse panel. For 1986-1987 models, B12 will have two red wires, and B11 will have one. For 1988-1991 models, both B11 and B12 will have one wire each. Tape the ends of the cut wires.
3. Strip the wires and insert them into the included lever nut. Insert the long fused wire that was routed to the fusebox. Connect one wire per port. This connects the radio, interior lights, and 12V dash outlet to the auxiliary battery.
4. Reconnect connector B and reinstall the fuse box and cover, ensuring no wires are pinched.

For 1983-1985 Vanagon Models (Connect to Fusebox):

1. Remove the fuse box cover and detach the fuse box mount.
2. Locate the connection at the back of fuse 8. The top end of the fuse has 2 or 3 red wires in two connectors, and one red wire with a yellow stripe. Do not alter the wires at the bottom end of the fuse. The top of the fuse is closest to the steering wheel when installed.
3. Cut all plain red wires from the top of fuse S8 (approximately 1" away from the fuse panel). DO NOT cut the red and yellow striped wire. Unplug and discard the connector with the cut wires. Tape the ends of the remaining wires coming from the fuse panel.
4. Locate the red and white striped wire at the top of fuse 9 (next to fuse 8). Cut this wire and plug it into the connector. Do not cut the plain red wire on fuse 9.
5. At the back of the headlight switch, locate the two PIN 30 connections. Depending on the year, one PIN 30 will have a large red or red/yellow wire, and the other will have one or two smaller red wires. Cut only the small red wire(s). Tape the ends coming from the switch and route the other ends down to the fuse panel.

6. NOTE: Some vehicles may not have the small red wire(s) that power the clock. If this is the case, proceed. After installation, ensure the clock is powered by the auxiliary battery. If not, trace the wire back from the clock to its source.

7. Connect the long red wire from the battery to the cut wires using the 5-port lever nut connector. Strip 1/2" of insulation from each wire, straighten the ends, and insert them into the ports. Ensure a secure connection with pliers. Only one wire per port. Verify all wires are captured through the clear side of the connector.

8. Reinstall the fuse box and cover, ensuring no wires are pinched.

Secure the Battery

For Non-Swivel Driver's Seat:

For SLA 1161 Batteries:

1. Slide the driver's seat forward and tape the box lid open.
2. Place the battery in the box on its side with terminals facing the front of the van.
3. Poke out the backing sticker for the bolt hole.
4. From under the van, insert an M8 bolt with a washer through the hole. Place the bracket, followed by a washer, split washer, and the M8 nut.
5. Tighten securely, shake the battery to ensure stability, and tighten one last time.

For LiFePo4 Batteries:

1. Slide the driver's seat forward and tape the box lid open.
2. Attach the "L" bracket to the battery box groove using the included sheet metal screw, ensuring it is positioned between the spot welds and the underside is clear.
3. Place the battery in the box on its side with terminals facing the front. Ensure the "L" bracket is snug against the battery, adjusting if necessary.
4. Poke out the backing sticker for the bolt hole.
5. From under the van, insert an M8 bolt with a washer through the hole. Place the bracket, followed by a washer, lock washer, and the M8 nut.
6. Tighten securely, shake the battery to ensure stability, and tighten one last time.

For Swivel Driver's Seat:

1. Remove the four 8mm nuts from the seat pedestal and set the seat aside.
2. Remove the wire clip at the back of the battery box. The wire loom can rest on top of the battery.
3. Insert the battery on its side with terminals at the top front of the battery box.
4. For LiFePO4 Batteries: Install brackets as shown.
5. For SLA 1161 Batteries: Install brackets stacked as shown in diagram "B".
6. Install the split washer and flat washer onto the bolt and tighten both brackets.
7. Shake the battery to ensure stability and tighten the bolt one last time.
8. Make wiring connections, reinstall the swivel seat, and the installation is complete.

Alternate Installation Locations

Other recommended locations include beneath the rear bench or in the camper's cabinet. If installing multiple batteries, ensure they are connected in parallel to maintain proper voltage. Securing and procuring additional wiring may be necessary for these locations.

Connect the Battery!

1. Install the solenoid, stock fridge, and front fuse panel wires to the positive terminal of your battery using the 6mm bolt and washer. Orient the wires neatly to prevent contact with the compartment cover.
2. Using a self-tapping screw, affix the ground wire's terminal ring to the metal near the battery post. Sand the paint off the metal surface to ensure a good connection.
3. Close the battery compartment cover, reinstall the seat, and reconnect the negative terminal on the primary battery. Your sink, interior lights, radio, and 12V dash outlet are now powered by the auxiliary battery. The refrigerator will continue to function on DC power only when the engine is running.

Congratulations! You are ready to go off the grid!

Wiring Diagram

A wiring diagram illustrating the connections between the auxiliary battery, main battery, alternator, isolator, relay, and various vehicle components is provided.

Key connections include:

• 86-91 from Connector B
• 83-85 from S8 and S9
• Relay connections (85, 86, 30, 87, 87)
• Alternator connection
• 50 Amp isolator
• Refrigerator connection
• Main Battery (Engine Start)
• Fuse Panel P Terminal

Tips for a Happy Battery

Lead-Acid Battery Chemistry: Energy is stored via a chemical reaction. The process is reversible by feeding current back into the battery. This cycle can only be repeated a finite number of times before capacity degrades.

LiFePo4 Batteries: These batteries require less maintenance, offer more charge/discharge cycles, and have integrated management systems to prevent excessive discharge.

Lead-Acid Battery Care:

1. Discharge lead-acid batteries as little as possible between charges. Avoid deep discharges, as they are harmful and reduce lifespan.
2. Never let the voltage drop below 10.5 volts, as this causes irreversible damage. If lights dim noticeably, charge the battery. Most inverters automatically shut off around 10.5 volts.
3. Always store lead-acid batteries fully charged. Storing them at lower voltages reduces lifespan. Avoid storing below 11.5 volts. Batteries self-discharge, so recharge every 6 months or as needed to maintain above 11.5 volts. Fully automatic chargers are recommended to prevent overcharging.
4. Faster energy withdrawal reduces available energy. A 10-amp load will last less than half the time of a 5-amp load. A 50-amp load will last significantly less than an hour. Calculate amp draw by dividing watts by 12 volts (e.g., a 500-watt device draws approximately 42 amps at 12 volts).
5. Inverters are not 100% efficient (approx. 85%). A 500-watt device plugged into an inverter will draw about 590 watts, or approximately 50 amps at 12 volts. Do not attempt to charge a battery by plugging a charger into an inverter connected to the same battery.
6. Battery capacity decreases over time. If capacity drops significantly (e.g., drains much faster than before), the battery may be nearing failure. Test the battery and replace if necessary. A battery is generally considered "good" if it retains at least 80% of its original capacity.