Motor and Upgrade Kit for McDonald's Vertical Toaster

Replacing Motor

1. Remove the chain. (Refer to Figure 1: A view of the drive chain in the vertical toaster with the vertical brace removed.)
2. Remove the two screws that hold the drive sprocket to the motor's shaft. Note that one bolt rests against the flat side of the motor's shaft. (Refer to Figure 2: Two bolts hold the drive sprocket on the motor's drive shaft. The four machine bolts holding the motor are accessible after the sprocket is removed.)
3. Lay the unit on its back. Use a 2x4 or a similar block under the toaster to avoid stressing the power cord. (Refer to Figure 3: Illustration showing the unit resting on a 2x4 or similar block to avoid stressing the power cord.)
4. Remove the bottom of the unit. (Refer to Figure 4: Illustration showing the motor in place on the bottom of the toaster.)
5. Remove the bolts that hold the motor in place. Support the motor with your hand as you remove the final bolt.
6. Note: The new motor may have a longer drive shaft than the original motor. (Refer to Figure 5: The new motor, shown in front, has a longer drive shaft. The mounting points are not tapped and require self-tapping bolts. It is recommended to run the bolts into the motor casing first.)
7. Disconnect the wiring and remove the old motor.
8. Note: The holes in the mounting points on the new motor are not tapped. The self-tapping machine bolts used to attach the motor will tap the mountings. For this reason, it is best to run the bolts into the motor casing on a workbench prior to putting the motor in place in the toaster.
9. Put the new motor in place and use the machine bolts to secure it. Ensure it is shifted as far toward the front of the toaster as possible. (Refer to Figure 6: An image showing how to check the mounting slots before tightening the motor mounting bolts to ensure the motor is shifted toward the front of the toaster.)
10. Attach the cooling fan on the rear of the motor. Ensure it is flush with the end of the shaft. (Refer to Figure 9: The cooling fan on the rear of the motor shaft should be flush with the end of the shaft.)
11. Note: New wiring terminals are provided to attach wiring harnesses from early production toasters.

Replacing Drive Sprocket

1. Replace the bottom of the unit and sit it upright.
2. Position the new sprocket on the end of the drive shaft with the setscrews facing out. (Refer to Figure 7: Illustration showing the sprocket positioned on the drive shaft with setscrews facing out. It is critical to position it correctly relative to the cabinet wall for the chain to run flat.)
3. Use a ruler to measure the distance from the cabinet wall to the drive-roller sprocket. Use this measurement to set the depth of the drive sprocket.
4. Use the new setscrews to attach the sprocket, ensuring one setscrew is resting against the flat on the shaft. Do not overtighten the bolts on the sprocket.

Examining Sprockets

Examine the drive and idler sprockets carefully. The wear between the sprocket's teeth should be evenly distributed. If the sprocket's teeth have a pronounced sawtooth-like curve, the sprocket should be replaced. (Refer to Figure 8: Comparison of a worn idler sprocket (right) with a new sprocket (left). The worn sprocket shows a sawtooth-like curve and deep, uneven valleys between teeth, indicating it should be replaced.)

Pinning Idler

1. Re-install the chain. With the idler loose, twist the idler assembly clockwise with the top stud resting on the left side of the idler and the bottom stud resting against the right side of the bracket. Tighten mounting bolts, ensuring there is 1/4 inch (¼") deflection in the chain from the center with light pressure. (Refer to Figure 10: Illustration showing how to cock the idler assembly to ensure proper chain tension and tighten nuts. The image shows the chain off to reveal the position of the studs.)
2. Run the unit with the side panel off to ensure the chain runs in a flat plane.
3. With the idler properly positioned, use a high-quality 11/64-inch drill bit to drill through the bracket and the cabinet wall. (Refer to Figure 10 and Figure 11: Illustration showing the use of a high-quality 11/64-inch drill bit to drill through the bracket and cabinet.)
4. Secure the idler in this position with a #10 screw. (Refer to Figure 12: Illustration showing the use of a #10 screw to lock the bracket in place after drilling.)

Installing Heat Shrink

1. Cut the wire wraps from the power cord lines that enter through the stress relief.
2. Cut the supplied heat shrink into two equal lengths.
3. Disconnect the power cord lines from the latching relay. Pull the wire from the wiring bundle, creating a clear path from the terminal end to the point the wire enters the cabinet.
4. Slide the heat shrink onto the white wire, pushing it flush to the stress relief. (Refer to Figure 13: Illustration showing heat shrink being slid onto a white wire, pushed flush to the stress relief. Refer to Figure 15: A close-up of the heat shrink tubing on a wire, showing it resting firmly against the stress relief.)
5. Leave enough material on the terminal end to partially cover the terminal. (Refer to Figure 14: Illustration showing heat shrink tubing being placed on a power cord, with enough material left to partially cover the terminal.)
6. Apply heat to the shrink wrap. (Refer to Figure 16: Illustration showing the use of a heat gun to secure the shrink wrap in place.)
7. Plug the terminal back onto the latching relay while the heat shrink is still warm. The wire will stiffen as the heat shrink cools, making handling more difficult.
8. Repeat the procedure for the black wire.
9. Realign power cord lines with the wiring bundle and secure with wire wraps.

Installing Crumb Catcher

1. Remove the rear screw securing the controller-side front roller to the cabinet wall. (Refer to Figure 17: Illustration showing a screw on the controller side of the front upper roller that is removed to accommodate the crumb catcher.)
2. Place the crumb catcher in position in the cabinet and replace the roller-securing screw. This screw now also holds the crumb catcher in place.
3. Ensure the screw securing the crumb tray is tight and the tray does not rattle in the cabinet. (Refer to Figure 18: Illustration showing the crumb catcher positioned inside the top of the controller-side cabinet, mounting under the front roller axles. The screw removed earlier is used to secure it.)
4. Lubricate the chain with the supplied lubricant.
5. Replace the angled bracket and secure the wiring bundle with wire wraps.
6. Reinstall the side panel and replace the compression knobs. The setscrews in the knobs should go to the flats on the compression setting shafts.
7. Set knobs to 3 and C.
8. Apply power and verify correct operation.