Component Access/Removal Integrated (700-3 TALL) Series
COMPONENT ACCESS AND REMOVAL
This section explains how to remove components from 736 Series Units starting with serial # 2970000. If different models have similar adjusting, accessing, and/or removal procedures, they are grouped together under the appropriate heading. The units covered in the procedures are listed between brackets after the heading. This section is arranged as follows: Exterior cosmetic and mechanical components, followed by the internal cosmetic and mechanical components, unit tray mechanical components, with the sealed system components at the end. An attempt has been made to arrange these procedures in such a way as to simulate which components would need to be removed first in order to gain access to other components. When following a component removal procedure, it may be necessary to reference another component removal procedure listed earlier in this section.
NOTE: Before continuing, please take note of the WARNINGS and CAUTIONS below.
⚠ WARNING
- IF IT IS NECESSARY TO REMOVE A UNIT FROM ITS INSTALLATION, REMEMBER THAT THE UNIT COULD TIP FORWARD WHEN PULLED FORWARD BEYOND THE ANTI-TIP COMPONENTS, RESULTING IN SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH. PULLING A UNIT FROM ITS INSTALLATION SHOULD ONLY BE PERFORMED BY AN AUTHORIZED SERVICE TECHNICIAN OR INSTALLER.
- TO AVOID ELECTRIC SHOCK, POWER TO THE UNIT MUST BE DISCONNECTED WHENEVER ACCESSING AND/OR REMOVING COMPONENTS POWERED BY ELECTRICITY OR COMPONENTS NEAR OTHER ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS. IF THE UNIT IS PLUGGED IN, BUT HAS NOT BEEN SWITCHED ON BY PRESSING THE UNIT ON/OFF KEY, POWER IS STILL PRESENT AT THE CONTROL BOARD.
- IF REMOVING A DOOR OR DRAWER FROM A UNIT, REMEMBER THAT DOORS AND DRAWERS ARE HEAVY. IF THEY WERE TO FALL, THEY COULD CAUSE SERIOUS PERSONAL INJURY.
⚠ CAUTION
- If removing or disconnecting door hinge assemblies, remember they are spring loaded and may recoil quickly when released.
- If working in the compressor area, remember that compressor and tubing may be hot.
- If working on or around the evaporator or condenser, remember that evaporator and condenser fins are sharp.
EXTERIOR COSMETIC AND MECHANICAL COMPONENTS
Kickplate/Grille Removal (All Models)
The kickplate/grille is attached by four screws passing through the kickplate into adjustable kickplate brackets.
NOTE: Because drawer panels may extend down in front of the kickplate/grille, it may be necessary to remove the bottom drawer to gain access.
To remove kickplate/grille, extract screws (two each side) and pull kickplate/grille forward. (See Figure 7-1)
Figure 7-1. Kickplate/Grille Removal
Side Molding Strip Removal (All Models)
Side molding strips are held in place by four unit-to-cabinet brackets attached to the sides of the cabinet.
NOTE: Remove drawers first to make this task easier.
To remove the side trim molding strips (See Figure 7-2):
- Place a straight-blade screwdriver in channel at bottom of molding. Gently pull molding forward until face-frame edge of molding is accessible.
- Place another straight-blade screwdriver under face-frame edge and gently work molding away from face-frame, and off of unit-to-cabinet brackets.
Figure 7-2. Side Molding Strip Removal
Upper Compartment Light Switch & Fan Switch Removal (All Models)
The upper door compartment light switch and fan switch protrude through the top trim molding, just above the door. Tabs on the switches hold switches in the switch bracket behind the top trim. The bracket is attached to the switch enclosure with screws.
NOTE: The switch with white back is for the lights and the switch with black back is for the evaporator fan.
To access and remove a light and/or fan switch (See Figure 7-3):
- Remove side molding strips.
- Pull top of top molding forward, then lift up.
- Extract screws from switch bracket and pull bracket forward.
- Disconnect electrical leads from switch being removed.
- Depress tabs on side of switch and push switch out of bracket.
Figure 7-3. Upper Light Switch & Fan Switch
INTERIOR COSMETIC, MECHANICAL AND ELECTRICAL COMPONENTS
Door Shelf and Dairy Compartment Adjustment / Removal (All Models)
There are “L” shaped grooves in the end caps of the door shelves and dairy compartment, and there are knobs formed in the dikes of the door liner. (See Figure 7-8) The door shelves and dairy compartment are hung on the door by lining up the “L” shaped grooves with the knobs.
Push in and down to install a door shelf. Pull up and out to remove a door shelf.
Figure 7-8. Door Shelf
Compartment Shelf Adjustment / Removal (All Models)
Compartment shelf side rails have hooks at the back that allow the shelves to be hung from shelf ladders.
To remove a compartment shelf, tilt the front of the shelf up, then lift the back of the shelf up to disengage the hooks from the shelf ladders and pull the shelf from the unit. (See Figure 7-9)
To reinstall a compartment shelf, tilt the front of the shelf up and align the hooks with the slots in the shelf ladders, then insert the hooks into slots and lower the front of the shelf.
Figure 7-9. Compartment Shelf Removal
SEALED SYSTEM COMPONENTS
Upper Refrigerator Compartment Evaporator Removal (All Models except 736TFI)
The upper evaporator is attached to the back wall with screws.
NOTE: Before attempting to remove the evaporator, evacuate the refrigerant from the sealed system.
To access and remove the upper evaporator, first remove the light diffuser and evaporator cover, then (See Figure 7-44):
- Extract screws securing evaporator to the back wall.
- With a tube cutter, cut inlet tube approximately one inch from the end and cut the outlet tube approximately two inches from the end.
NOTE: Sweating the joints apart is not recommended as this may induce moisture into the sealed system and could cause a solder restriction in the capillary tube.
NOTE: When installing a new evaporator, be sure to thoroughly clean the tubing before brazing. After brazing and inspecting the joint for leaks, it is recommended to apply an acrylic-based paint to the joints to protect the exposed metals from oxidation.
Figure 7-44. Upper Evaporator Removal
Lower Compartment Evaporator Removal
The lower evaporator is attached to the back wall with screws.
NOTE: Before attempting to remove the evaporator, evacuate the refrigerant from the sealed system.
To access and remove the lower evaporator, first remove the heat exchanger cover, evaporator cover and switch enclosure. In the model 736TCI, the evaporator fan shroud will also need to be removed, then (See Figure 7-45):
- Extract screws securing evaporator to back wall.
- With a tube cutter, cut the inlet tube approximately one inch from the end and cut the outlet tube approximately two inches from the end.
NOTE: Sweating the joints apart is not recommended as this may induce moisture into the sealed system and could cause a solder restriction in the capillary tube.
NOTE: If reusing the existing defrost heater, defrost terminator and evaporator thermistor, they can be removed from the evaporator after it is removed from the unit.
Figure 7-45. Lower Evaporator Removal
High-Side Filter-Drier Removal
The high-side filter-driers are located in the center of the unit tray, behind the condenser and are attached to the drier bracket with a cable tie.
NOTE: Before attempting to remove a filter drier, evacuate the refrigerant from the sealed system.
To access and remove a high-side filter-drier, the kickplate/grille will need to be removed first and the unit tray will need to be slid out. To slide the unit tray out, extract the two screws that secure the tray to the unit, located at the front right and left corners. Grab the front flange of the tray and pull forward. (See Figure 7-46)
NOTE: It may be necessary to disconnect the compressor electrical leads in order to pull the tray out far enough to access the filter-driers.
- Remove a filter-drier by cutting the cable tie which secures filter-driers to the bracket. (See Figure 7-47)
- With file edge, score a line around capillary tube approximately one inch from filter-drier outlet, then fatigue capillary tube at this line until it separates.
- With a tube cutter, cut the inlet tube approximately one inch from filter-drier.
NOTE: Sweating the joints apart is not recommended as this may induce moisture into the sealed system and could cause a solder restriction in the capillary tube.
NOTE: Check the end of the remaining capillary tube for internal burrs. If burrs exist, re-score a line around the capillary tube (approximately one inch from the end) and fatigue the capillary tube at this new line until it separates.
NOTE: When installing the replacement filter-drier, insert the capillary tube until it touches the screen, then pull the capillary tube approximately 3/8” away from the screen before brazing. (See Figure 7-48) When installing a new filter-drier, be sure to thoroughly clean the tubing before brazing.
Figure 7-46. Sliding Unit Tray Out
Figure 7-47. Filter-Drier Removal
Figure 7-48. Filter-Drier Cut-Away View
Compressor Removal
The compressors have four rubber compressor grommets inserted into their base. Cylindrical metal spacers are placed over threaded studs that are pressed into the unit tray. The compressor grommets fit over the spacers and a washer sets on top of the grommet and spacer. A nut is then installed on the threaded stud and tightened down on the washer and spacer.
NOTE: Before attempting to remove a compressor, evacuate the refrigerant from the sealed system.
To access and remove a compressor, the kickplate/grille will need to be removed first and the unit tray will need to be slid out. To slide the unit tray out, extract the two screws that secure tray to the unit, located at the front right and left corners. Grab the front flange of tray and pull forward.
- Use a flat-blade screwdriver to remove compressor electrical cover.
- Disconnect electrical leads from compressor. (See Figure 7-49)
- Remove compressor by cutting the inlet and outlet tubing with a tube cutter, approximately one inch from the compressor ports. (See Figure 7-50)
- Extract nuts and washers from the threaded studs, then lift compressor off of studs. (See Figure 7-50)
NOTE: Sweating the joints apart is not recommended as this may induce moisture into the sealed system.
NOTE: The high-side filter-drier must be replaced whenever servicing the sealed system.
NOTE: When installing a compressor, be sure to thoroughly clean the tubing before brazing.
Figure 7-49. Removing Compressor Electrical Cap
Figure 7-50. Compressor Removal
Condenser Removal
The condenser is secured to the unit tray by four rivets that pass up through the unit tray into the condenser side brackets.
NOTE: Before attempting to remove the condenser, evacuate the refrigerant from the sealed system(s).
To access the condenser, the kickplate/grille will need to be removed first and the unit tray will need to be slid out. To slide the unit tray out, extract the two screws that secure tray to the unit, located at the front right and left corners. Grab the front flange of tray and pull forward. (See Figure 7-51)
NOTE: It will be necessary to disconnect compressor electrical leads in order to pull the tray out far enough to remove the condenser.
- Remove condenser by cutting the inlet and outlet tubes to and from the condenser, approximately one inch from the weld joints.
- Prop front of the unit tray up and drill out the rivets securing condenser to unit tray. (See Figure 7-52)
NOTE: Sweating the joints apart is not recommended as this may induce moisture into the sealed system.
NOTE: The high-side filter-drier(s) must be replaced whenever replacing the condenser.
NOTE: To reattach the condenser to the unit tray, use #10-24 X 3/8" bolts (#6200020) passing up through the unit tray and condenser brackets with #10-24 Hex nuts (#6150030) tightened down on top.
NOTE: When installing the replacement condenser, be sure to thoroughly clean the tubing before brazing.
Figure 7-51. Sliding Unit Tray Out
Figure 7-52. Condenser Removal
Upper Compartment Heat Exchanger Removal
The upper compartment heat exchanger passes down through a hole in the back left corner of the mullion. The heat exchanger then passes down through the lower compartment behind the heat exchanger cover, and through a hole in the back left corner of lower compartment floor.
NOTE: Before attempting to remove a heat exchanger, evacuate the refrigerant from the sealed system.
To access and remove the upper compartment heat exchanger, the following components must first be removed: the upper light diffuser, upper evaporator cover, both drawer assemblies, left side drawer slides, heat exchanger cover in the lower compartment and the kickplate/grille. The unit tray will also need to be slid out.
NOTE: It will be necessary to disconnect the compressor electrical leads in order to pull the tray out far enough to access and remove the heat exchanger.
- Begin removing heat exchanger by cutting the inlet and outlet tubes at evaporator. (See Figure 7-53)
- Cut suction line approximately two inches from compressor. (See Figure 7-54)
- Since the filter-drier will be replaced at the same time, cut drier inlet tube approximately one inch from drier, leaving capillary tube attached. (See Figure 7-55)
- The heat exchanger will be scrapped, so use a tin snips or similar tool to cut heat exchanger near hole in mullion and hole in floor of the lower compartment. (See Figure 7-53)
- Pull the pieces of heat exchanger out and clear the Hot-Melt away from holes.
NOTE: To avoid damaging the unit from the brazing torch flame, remove the evaporator from the compartment and attach the new heat exchanger to the evaporator outside of the unit.
NOTE: Applying dish soap on the tubing insulation of the heat exchanger and around the holes in the mullion and lower compartment floor, will assist in working the heat exchanger through the holes.
NOTE: When installing replacement heat exchanger, be sure to thoroughly clean the tubing before brazing.
NOTE: Apply a bead of silicone around the heat exchanger where it passes through the holes in the mullion and lower compartment.
Figure 7-53. Cut Inlet and Outlet at Evaporator
Figure 7-54. Cut Suction line at compressor
Figure 7-55. Cut Inlet to Filter-Drier
Lower Compartment Heat Exchanger Removal
The lower compartment heat exchanger is behind the switch enclosure and passes down through a hole in the back right corner of the lower compartment floor.
NOTE: Before attempting to remove a heat exchanger, evacuate the refrigerant from the sealed system.
To access and remove the lower compartment heat exchanger, the following components must first be removed: both drawer assemblies, left side drawer slides, heat exchanger cover, lower evaporator cover, switch enclosure and the kickplate/grille. The unit tray will also need to be slid out.
NOTE: It will be necessary to disconnect the compressor electrical leads in order to pull the tray out far enough to access and remove the heat exchanger.
- Begin removing heat exchanger by cutting the inlet and outlet tubes at evaporator. (See Figure 7-56)
- Cut the suction line approximately two inches from compressor. (See Figure 7-57)
- Since the filter-drier will be replaced at the same time, cut drier inlet tube approximately one inch from drier, leaving capillary tube attached. (See Figure 7-58)
- The heat exchanger will be scrapped, so use a tin snips or similar tool to cut heat exchanger near hole in floor of the lower compartment.
- Pull the pieces of heat exchanger out and clear the Hot-Melt away from hole.
NOTE: To avoid damaging the unit from the brazing torch flame, remove the evaporator from the compartment and attach the new heat exchanger to the evaporator outside of the unit.
NOTE: Applying dish soap on the tubing insulation of the heat exchanger and around the holes in the lower compartment floor will assist in working the heat exchanger through the hole.
NOTE: When installing replacement heat exchanger, be sure to thoroughly clean the tubing before brazing.
NOTE: Apply a bead of silicone around the heat exchanger where it passes through the hole in the lower compartment.
Figure 7-56. Cut Inlet and Outlet at Evaporator
Figure 7-57. Cut Suction line at compressor
Figure 7-58. Cut Inlet at Filter-Drier
File Info : application/pdf, 25 Pages, 1.81MB
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