Menstrual Phase (D1-6): When Hormones Are at Their Lowest
During this phase, estrogen and progesterone levels are at their lowest point in the cycle. Androgens become relatively dominant compared to the drop in other hormones.
Skin Changes
Dehydration & Fragile Barrier Function
Linked to the drop in estrogen. Estrogen is crucial for ceramides, which act as the skin's cement to retain water and form a protective barrier. It's also linked to aquaporins, which transport water to cells. This phase sees a decrease in these essential components, leading to dehydration.
Heightened Skin Sensitivity
This is due to the reduced anti-inflammatory effect of estrogen. With fewer natural anti-inflammatory agents (like IL-10), pro-inflammatory molecules (IL-6, TNF-alpha, etc.) can increase, making the skin more prone to eczema or hives.
Dull Complexion, Sometimes Uneven
The relative dominance of androgens combined with the reduced anti-inflammatory power of estrogen can lead to inflammatory acne breakouts, particularly on the chin (U-zone). A dull complexion can also occur due to increased sebum production and oxidation.
3 Cosmetic Reflexes to Adopt
- Gentleness: For cleansing, opt for a gentle cleanser (milk or oil) without sulfates, which can further compromise the skin barrier and increase dehydration.
- Hydration is Key: Prioritize hyaluronic acid, ideally a blend of different molecular weights for both hydrating and anti-aging benefits.
- On-the-Go Care: A soothing, hydrating mist is perfect for caring for your skin anytime. Enriched with magnesium, it helps calm the heightened sensitivity experienced during this phase.
Body & Psychological Changes
Mood
The unwanted duo: fatigue and irritability. With estrogen and progesterone at their lowest, it's like turning off relaxing music, making ambient noise (stress, annoyances) feel more irritating.
Energy
Energy reserves are low. The inflammatory environment, combined with blood loss and subsequent iron loss, leads to increased fatigue.
Pain
Do you find yourself more sensitive to pain? This is normal. Estrogen acts as a natural painkiller; its drop leads to a lower pain threshold.
Tips for the Follicular Phase & Ovulation
Phase 2: Follicular Phase (D7-13) & Ovulation (D14) - The Skin's Spring
This is the ideal time for a soothing, hydrating, or even lightly exfoliating mask for combination to oily skin.
Cosmetic Routine
This is the ideal moment for a soothing, hydrating mask, or even a lightly exfoliating one for combination to oily skin only.
Diet
Prioritize anti-inflammatory foods like omega-3 sources (small fish like sardines/mackerel) or vegetable oils (flaxseed, camelina, rapeseed oil) – never heat them to preserve their benefits.
Drink more water than usual; refill a 500mL water bottle daily during this phase or add two herbal teas to your day.
Lifestyle
Sleep Goal: Aim for 7-8 hours of sleep per night, minimum. Scientific studies suggest that less sleep can lead to a duller complexion. Naps are okay, but limit them to 30 minutes per day.
Estrogen: A major change. They rise sharply, becoming the dominant hormone until the peak just before ovulation.
Progesterone: Remains low and stable, starting to increase slightly around ovulation.
Androgens: Stable, and lower than estrogen during this phase.
Skin Changes
Hydration & Reinforced Barrier
The rise in estrogen boosts hyaluronic acid synthesis, a powerful humectant that can retain up to 1000 times its weight in water. Water exchange between cells becomes more efficient, and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) decreases.
Attenuated Sensitivity: Calm After the Storm
Higher estrogen levels mean more anti-inflammatory substances (like IL-10). The skin feels less sensitive and better resists external aggressors (like pollution and UV rays).
Radiant Complexion, Sometimes Still Uneven
Hydration + reinforced barrier + soothed immune system = the trio for a uniform, smooth complexion and brighter skin. However, increased estrogen also boosts melanin synthesis, which can lead to diffuse dark spots in sensitive areas like the nasolabial folds, mouth, and underarms. Be mindful of sun exposure during this period.
3 Cosmetic Reflexes to Adopt
- Work with Your Skin: Boost Radiance: Your skin works from within for better radiance. Use gentle peeling active ingredients like lactic acid or gluconolactone to support renewal and eliminate hyperpigmented cells.
- Prevent Dark Spots: Use ingredients like Vitamin C, polyphenols, bakuchiol, sea lily extract, etc. Opt for anti-dark spot actives to prevent potential hyperpigmentation.
- Lightness: This is the time in your cycle when you can switch to a lighter cream, fluid, or serum. Your barrier is reinforced, and hydration is at its peak, allowing for lighter textures, especially in summer.
Body & Psychological Changes
Mood
The key words are optimism and sociability, thanks to estrogen, which boosts the production and sensitivity of serotonin and dopamine receptors (neurotransmitters of motivation and pleasure).
Cognition
While not a dramatic difference, your working memory and reaction speed may improve. Estrogen promotes new neural connections.
Energy
Dynamism returns; you're on an upward trend. Your body uses the energy you provide more efficiently.
Tips for the Follicular Phase & Ovulation
- Cosmetic Routine: If you want to try new skincare products or actives, now is the time. Your skin is least sensitive during this period of your cycle.
- Diet: Enjoy yourself and take the time to try new recipes, prioritizing raw or gently cooked fruits and vegetables (steamed preferably).
- Sport: Leverage your dynamism to establish a weekly sports routine. However, limit intense efforts around ovulation, as estrogen increases ligament plasticity. The risk of ligament rupture is 4 to 8 times higher around ovulation.
Phase 3: Luteal Phase (D15-28) - The Hormonal Whirlwind
Estrogen: A slight rise followed by a sharp drop, occurring at the same time as progesterone.
Progesterone: This is the star of this phase, reaching its peak around day 22, then declining.
Androgens: Influential early in the phase, they become more prominent as estrogen and progesterone decrease.
Skin Changes
Hydration & Barrier Function: Mixed Results
Everything is fine until around day 25. Then, with the drop in progesterone and estrogen, ceramide production (the skin barrier's cement) and hyaluronic acid levels notably decrease.
A 2023 study showed that during the second part of the luteal phase (D22-28), the skin barrier was more fragile than during the first part (D15-21).
Sensitivity & Immunity: Imminent Alert
The hormonal drop triggers a peak in pro-inflammatory cytokines. The skin is on high alert. Mast cells (involved in allergic reactions) become more easily activated, potentially causing itching or redness.
3 Cosmetic Reflexes to Adopt
- Spot Treatment: Inflammatory pimples may appear at the end of the luteal phase. Do not pick them to avoid spreading inflammation and causing scars. Use a localized spot treatment containing zinc, an anti-inflammatory. Apply this type of treatment as soon as redness appears, 2-3 times a day, before the pimple fully forms.
- Peeling with Moderation: If you started a peeling treatment during the follicular phase, space out applications (every other or every third night) during the luteal phase if you feel your skin is more sensitive/fragile.
- Less is More: If your skin becomes oilier towards the end of the phase, be minimalist with your routine: 2 products morning and night are sufficient (including a cleanser). Choose mattifying, anti-acne, and hydrating products, or even anti-aging ones to benefit from multiple active ingredients.
Body & Psychological Changes
Mood
This is the famous Premenstrual Syndrome (PMS) period, characterized by irritability, anxiety, and sadness. The culprit is the drastic and sudden drop in progesterone. The brain had become accustomed to its relaxing effect over the previous 15 days and suddenly loses it.
Tips for the Luteal Phase
- Cosmetic Routine: Adaptability & flexibility. During this phase, sometimes a simple cleanse is enough, and sometimes a double cleanse is necessary (to remove impurities and excess sebum). In both cases, use gentle cleansers: oil or balm + milk, for example, to protect the skin barrier as much as possible (especially at the end of the phase).
- Diet: Limit sugar and dairy products (which exacerbate inflammation and increase sebum production). Conversely, stock up on magnesium (dark chocolate >70%, almonds, spinach) which helps regulate mood.
- A Tip to Remember: Raspberry leaves are known to help regulate cycles and soothe premenstrual cramps. You can try this 100% natural herbal tea!
Cravings for Sugar
The brain, whose serotonin supply has decreased, seeks ways to feel better, and sugar is its preferred fuel. Additionally, the energy required for the body's functions increases slightly during this phase.
