KitchenAid K45SS Owner's Manual

KITCHENAID K45SS Owner's Manual

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SERVICE MANUAL KitchenAid MIXERS

Models covered: KSMC50, K5SS, K45SS, KSM90

KITCHENAID INC. ST. JOSEPH MICHIGAN 49085

TOOLS REQUIRED

• Speed Tool #4164839
• 5/32" Drift Punch
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Small Flat Screwdriver
• Straight Screwdriver
• 1 Nut Driver 3/8" Hollow Shank
• 11/32 Wrench
• Needle Nose Pliers
• Small Hammer
• Rubber/Rawhide Mallet
• Watt-Meter (170VAC / 240VAC)
• V.O. Meter
• Custom-made cradle from wood, cushioned with cloth to avoid damage to the mixer's finish.

INTRODUCTION

All KitchenAid mixers are well designed and carefully built, providing continual use year after year without requiring service attention. This manual aims to cover potential troubles through improved design and careful record-keeping.

CAUTION: Always remove the power cord from the electrical outlet before disassembling any part of the mixer.

INDEX

KITCHENAID MODELS

• K45SS
• KSM90
• K5SS
• KSMC50

SECTIONS

1. Disassembly of Gear Case and Planetary
2. Disassembly of Motor and Control Unit
3. Repairs to Motor and Control Unit
4. Repairs to Gear Case and Planetary
5. Repairs to K45SS & KSM90 Pedestal
6. Adjusting of Control Unit
7. Repairs to Model K5SS & KSMC50 Bowl Lift Assembly
8. Troubleshooting the K5SS Bowl Lift Assembly

GENERAL INFORMATION

NORMAL PERFORMANCE

The KitchenAid mixer uses a universal motor operating on 50 or 60 Hertz. Ensure the power supply voltage is within 10 volts of the specified voltage. A mixer in good condition starts slowly at the 'stir' position and increases speed up to #10. Some noise is normal at higher speeds due to gears and motor. A slight clattering noise when first starting may disappear as lubrication warms up.

The switch lever should move freely through definite positions for speeds stir, 2, 4, 6, 8, and 10. Speeds 3, 5, 7, and 9 do not have definite notches.

POWER

The mixer has full power on all speed settings. To check, hold the planetary with one hand and operate the switch lever. The planetary should not stall easily at the stir position, nor should it slow down noticeably under pressure.

HEATING

Under normal conditions, the mixer should not overheat due to its ventilating system. However, under heavy loads or extended use, the mixer head may become warm to the touch.

SPEED CONTROL

Speed is controlled by a governor assembly and control plate. The electrical circuit is made and broken by the fly ball governor. The triac in the phase control circuit regulates motor speed by adjusting voltage. The control plate contacts influence the triac's operation.

BEATER

The beater fits freely on the beater shaft in the planetary. Power is transmitted from the motor via the worm gear to the center and bevel gear assembly, which engages the beater pinion.

LUBRICATION

Under normal service, the mixer requires minimal lubrication. The gear case is packed with Shell Darina #2 grease. Motor and beater shaft bearings are oil-impregnated. The rear motor bearing has a felt washer, and the front motor bearing is a ball bearing.

SECTION 1: DISASSEMBLY OF GEAR CASE AND PLANETARY

All solid-state KitchenAid mixers share similar motors and control parts, with slight variations in planetary parts and bowl lift mechanisms. Early K5SS models may have a lead weight. The K5SS and KSMC50 models have a different bowl lift system compared to the K45SS and KSM90.

Before repairs: Perform a watt test. Plug the wattmeter into the mixer. If the dial shows up to 135 watts (stir to high speed), the mixer is in good condition. Readings of 175-400 watts indicate potential electrical or mechanical issues. Check bearings, gears, motor, and brushes.

CAUTION: Always disconnect the power cord before disassembly.

To remove the planetary:

1. Remove the drip cup by tapping its upper edge.
2. Use a 5/32" drift punch to remove the groove pin holding the planetary to the vertical center shaft.
3. Pry the planetary off the shaft.
4. Remove the #6-32 x 3/8" oval head screw and the end cover.
5. Remove the two #6-32 x 3/16" binding head screws holding the trim band. Remove the trim band.
6. If necessary, loosen the setscrew on the pedestal and drive out the hinge pin to remove the pedestal.
7. Remove cord flag terminals from the control board and ground wire from the bearing bracket.
8. Remove the bottom cover by unscrewing five special screws.
9. Remove four #10-24 fillister head screws from the bottom cover.
10. Gently tap the pedestal to remove the bottom cover, which contains transmission gears, cord, and plug.
11. To remove the cord and plug, squeeze the heyco strain relief with pliers and pull out.
12. Remove the attachment hub bevel gear by pulling it from the attachment hub.
13. Clean out the gear case, removing as much grease as possible.

SECTION 2: DISASSEMBLY OF MOTOR AND CONTROL UNIT

1. Remove flag terminals from the stator.
2. Remove the end seal and disconnect terminals from the phase control.
3. Unhook the control board spring.
4. Unlock and remove the two lock nuts and adjusting screws to remove the control board.
5. Disassemble the phase control unit by unscrewing the #4-40 x 1/4" pan head screw.
6. With screwdrivers, pry off the governor assembly. Remove the governor drive stud.
7. Remove the speed control link and cam assembly by taking out the pivot screw and tension washer. Pull the assembly out after removing the flat spring.
8. Unscrew and remove the two #10-24 nuts, the bearing bracket, and the motor stud sleeve.
9. Unscrew the two brush holder screw caps and remove the brushes and springs. Mark their orientation.
10. Remove the armature by inserting a drift punch through the attachment hub opening and tapping it back through the stator with a block of wood.
11. Pull the two wires from the stator through the slot in the gear case and motor housing.
12. Pull brush clips from motor out of brush holders. Remove two #10-24 nuts and one stator screw to pull out the stator.
13. To remove brush holder housings, unscrew the other stator screw and the #10-24 x 1/4" cup point setscrews. Push housings out by hand.

NOTE: Early production mixers used square brushes. Chamfered edge brushes fit square holders.

Stator Testing: Use an ohmmeter on the 1X scale. Connect leads to the red and black wires of the upper coil. A low resistance reading indicates a good coil. Test the other coil similarly.

Assembly: Assemble the two stator screws and tighten them. Start the stator onto the screws and ribs of the gear case/motor housing. Ensure lead wires are on the same side as the slot. Insert brush clips between brush holder housing and insert. Ensure they are fully pushed in.

Armature Check: Use a growler or an electric motor repair shop for testing. Replace if not in good condition. Straighten bent ventilating fan blades. If replacing armature, transfer washers to the new one. Oil the worm and shaft, then install the armature. Tap gently with a non-metallic mallet to seat the bearing.

Bearing Bracket Installation: Start bracket onto stator screws. Push until screws go through. Start nuts on screws and tighten until bearing bracket is seated.

Bearing Replacement: Remove three #4-40 x 1/2" pan head screws and lift the bearing retainer. Remove the old bearing. Place the new bearing with the square notch at the top. Soak the felt washer in oil and place the retainer on the bearing, aligning the tongue with the square notch. Screw in the three screws.

End Play Check: Ensure a perceptible amount of end play for the armature. Add a thin washer if end play is excessive.

Brush Installation: If brushes are longer than 5/16", install them in brush holders, ensuring correct orientation (right/left, up). Secure with brush holder screw caps.

Speed Control Link and Cam Assembly: Place assembly through the bearing bracket slot. Position flat spring and slide assembly over it. Place speed control spring on switch lever stud. Place assembly over the stud. Tighten tension washer on pivot screw.

Governor Assembly: If the governor spring is rusty, replace the assembly. Place governor drive stud on armature shaft. Position governor with keyway up and push onto the shaft.

Phase Control Installation: Ensure the heat sink on the triac unit has thermal conductive compound. Place #4-40 x 1/4" pan head screw through the triac and into the bearing bracket, tightening to 4-5 in. lbs. Avoid overtightening.

Control Plate Installation: Place control plate on the bearing with adjusting screws at the top. Turn screws until about 3/8" remains. Ensure screws are even so the control plate rests squarely on the bearing bracket extensions.

Control Plate Spring: Hook the control plate spring into the bottom of the control plate. Place end seal onto mixer. Connect stator and phase control flag terminals to the control plate. Ensure connections are tight.

SECTION 4: REPAIRS TO GEAR CASE AND PLANETARY

NOTE: Grease is not shown in these pictures.

Attachment Hub Bearings: Examine brass bearings in the attachment hub and gear case roof. If worn, the housing must be replaced. Shafts should turn smoothly.

Attachment Hub Bevel Gear: If teeth show wear, replace the gear. Coat the shaft with oil and push the gear into the attachment hub bearing from inside the gear case.

Worm Gear Bracket: Remove three #10-24 x 7/16" Phillips fillister head screws and lift out the worm gear bracket, bearing, and pin assembly.

Center Gear Removal: Push the vertical center shaft upward to expose the pin. Lift out the center gear, bevel gear, and vertical center shaft.

Shaft Removal: Pull out the shaft from the bottom of the gear case cover. Check shaft for bearing wear. Lift gears from case for inspection.

Lower Center Bearing: This is an oilless bearing. If worn, the gear case bottom cover must be replaced.

Bevel Gear Replacement: If the attachment hub bevel gear was replaced, the center gear bevel gear assembly must also be replaced.

Gear Assembly Installation: Place the washer on the lower center bearing. Place the gear assembly on the center bearing. Insert the vertical shaft into the bottom of the lower gear case. Push shaft upward and insert pin. Align pin in shaft and lower shaft into gear assembly. Turn shaft until pin seats and gears turn together. Wipe excess lubricant from the vertical shaft.

Worm Gear Check: Check the worm gear, shaft, and pinion. To replace, drive out the groove pin. Note the positions of fiber washers. Install new gears similarly. Drive out the shaft and pinion from the top of the worm gear bracket.

Shaft and Pinion Installation: Start a new shaft and pinion from the bottom of the bracket. Place the washer on the bearing before the shaft emerges. Start the shaft into the washer. Place a new worm gear next to the washer and push the shaft into the gear. Place another washer and push the shaft through it and into the upper bearing. Align pin holes and drive in the pin.

Worm Gear Assembly Installation: Place the worm gear assembly and bearing bracket on the gear case bottom cover, aligning dowels. Insert three screw and lock washer assemblies and tighten them into the bottom cover.

Latch, Link, and Lever Assembly: Check for wear or trouble.

Lubrication: Use 6 oz. of Shell Darina #2 lubricant and pack around the gears. This is available through authorized parts distributors. Keep the bearing in the roof of the gear case open.

Gasket Installation: Clean the gasket surface of the gear case. Place a new gasket on the bottom cover and press it down.

Cord and Plug Check: Replace if drying or cracking.

Bottom Cover Installation: Lock the latch lever. Hold the bottom cover in position over the gear case and motor housing. Start the shaft into the upper bearing and push the parts together.

Gear Case Assembly: Do not force the gear cases together. Align gears properly for easy assembly.

Internal Gear Replacement: Pry the gear from the gear case cover. Align notches with holes and tap into place with a non-metallic mallet. Tighten the five special screws (18-20 in. lbs.). Then screw in the four #10-24 x 1" fillister head screws.

Internal Gear Lubrication: Fill the teeth of the internal gear with Shell Darina #2 lubricant.

Planetary Check: Check for play in the agitator shaft and bearing. If there is play, replace the planetary and shaft. Hold the agitator shaft firmly and remove the pinion retaining clip, pinion, pin, and washer. Pull out the agitator shaft.

Agitator Shaft Assembly: Oil the shaft and push it into the bearing. Place washers on the shaft. Place the pin through the shaft. Set the pinion gear on the shaft, straddling the pin. Place the retaining clip on the shaft.

Grease Application: Apply a light coat of Shell Darina #2 lubricant to the planetary pinion and internal gear.

Washer Installation: Place washers on the vertical shaft. Place the planetary on the shaft and push it up to the washers. Ensure perceptible end play. Align holes in planetary and shaft. Use a scribe to hold the shaft up if necessary. Drive in the groove pin. Place the drip cup on the gear case.

Adjusting Screw Check: This screw has a nylon insert. Replace if loose.

SECTION 5: REPAIRS TO K45SS & KSM90 PEDESTAL

Hinge Pin: If the pedestal was removed, check the hinge pin. If galled, loosen the setscrew and replace the pin. Do not drive the new pin in.

Rubber Feet: Replace worn or softened rubber feet. Twist old feet out, clean holes with solvent, and dry. Moisten new feet before inserting.

Bowl Screw Cap: Replace if worn out. Remove three #10-24 x 1/2" flat head screws, lift out the old cap, place new cap, and tighten with screws.

Pedestal Installation: Place the pedestal on the gear case and motor housing. Line up hinge pin holes and drive the pin in so it extends equally on both sides.

Hinge Pin Setscrew: Tighten the hinge pin setscrew.

SECTION 6: ADJUSTING OF CONTROL UNIT

NOTE: When replacing a control plate, hook a rag over the control plate spring to keep it accessible.

Adjustment: After installing new parts, adjust the control plate so all speeds are consistent with factory settings.

Wiring Check: Ensure all wire leads are properly connected and locked. Plug into a properly rated receptacle.

Stir Speed Adjustment: Move the switch lever to stir. If the motor doesn't start, turn out the two adjusting screws evenly until the planetary turns at approximately 60 RPM. To test, hold a finger to the beater shaft and count touches in 15 seconds. Adjust screws until approximately 15 touches occur.

Locking Nuts: Lock the two lock nuts with an 11/32" wrench. Recheck speeds and make fine adjustments without loosening the nuts.

Speed #6 Adjustment: Move the switch lever to speed #6. The planetary should turn 180 RPM. Test by touching finger to the beater shaft and counting touches in 5 seconds. Adjust the bottom screw if needed.

Speed #8 and #10 Check: Test speed #8 and #10. A slight difference between #8 and #10 is acceptable. If adjustment is needed, use the single bottom screw.

Final Check: Test all speeds. If stir and #6 are adjusted correctly, others should be fine. A definite change in speed between #8 and #10 indicates correct adjustment.

Strobograph Use: A speed tool (strobograph) can be used for planetary speed settings. Ensure it works with fluorescent light.

Graph Usage: Use Graph A for stir speed (K45/K5) or Graph B for solid state models. If the graph doesn't stand still, adjust control plate mounting screws. Use Graph C for speed #6 and Graph D for speed #8 and #10. Graph D should not stand still on #8. For speed #10, there should be a difference between #8 and #10.

Locking Nuts: Lock the upper mounting screws with an 11/32" wrench after setting speeds. Recheck speeds and make fine adjustments.

Model 4-C Procedure: Similar procedure applies, using Graphs A, B, C, and D for different speeds.

SECTION 7: REPAIRS TO MODEL K5SS & KSMC50 BOWL LIFT ASSEMBLY

The K45SS & KSM90 and K5SS & KSMC50 mixers have different bowl types and sizes. The K45SS & KSM90 bowl is stationary, while the K5SS & KSMC50 bowl slides on gibs.

Bowl Support Assembly: If the mixer is tipped, the bowl support assembly may break and require replacement.

Bowl Support Replacement:

1. Remove four 5/16"-18 x 3/4" round head screws and lift the gear case/motor housing off the column.
2. Lay the bowl lift assembly on its back. Remove four 5/16"-18 x 3/4" round head screws and lift the column off the base.
3. Remove two #10-24 x 1/2" flat head screws and pull the bowl support off the column.

Bowl Lift Arm Replacement:

1. Examine the bowl lift arm for cracks at the pin hole. Replace if faulty.
2. To install a new arm, drive out the taper pin. Pull out the bowl lift handle. Remove the bowl lift arm.
3. Hold the bowl lift arm with the large end of the tapered hole up. Start the bowl lift handle into the arm, pointing down. Push it through the arm and into the column bearing hole. Place the small end of the taper pin in the arm and drive it through the lift handle. Ensure the pin is tight.

Bowl Support Assembly Installation: Slide the new bowl support assembly onto the column. Place the bowl lift bracket and screw in the two #10-24 x 1/2" flat head screws tightly. Check the castle nut for tension to snap the rod into the arm.

Base Installation: Place the base on the bottom of the column and screw in the four 5/16"-18 x 3/4" round head screws tightly (70-90 in. lbs.).

Base Feet Replacement: Unscrew #8-32 x 1/2" round head screws, remove old feet, and install new feet. Do not overtighten.

Bowl Spring Latch: Install the bowl spring latch to hold the rear of the bowl down. Insert two #10-24 x 1/4" round head screws into the column and tighten them.

Final Assembly: Place the gear case and motor housing on the column and screw in the four 5/16"-18 x 3/4" round head screws tightly (70-90 in. lbs.).

Attaching Bowl: Place bowl support tabs over locating pins. Press down on the back of the bowl until the bowl pin snaps into the spring latch.

SECTION 8: TROUBLESHOOTING THE K5SS BOWL LIFT ASSEMBLY

Beater Rubbing Bottom of Bowl: Tap the yoke arm with a mallet to adjust clearance. There should be 1/16" clearance between the bowl and beater.

Excessive Clearance: Tap the yoke arm to achieve 1/16" clearance. A dime can be used as a gauge; the beater should just touch the coin.

Bowl and Beater Too Far Apart: Use a mallet to adjust the yoke arm until the 1/16" clearance is met.

Bowl Rocks on Support: This is caused by a broken bowl spring latch. Remove and replace the latch.

Worn Bowl Retaining Pins: If pins are worn, the bowl may move, causing the beater to hit the bowl sides. Twist and pull to remove old pins. Insert new pins, supporting the arms and driving them gently. Be careful not to bend the arms.

Troubleshooting Table

Wiring Diagram

The diagram shows the connections between the motor components, control board, and phase control. It details adjustments for stir speed (60 RPM) and speed #6 (175-180 RPM).