Technical Service Manual
SAFETY NOTICE: This documentation is only intended for qualified technicians who are aware of the respective safety regulations.
Specifications
This section details the technical specifications for the dishwasher.
A line drawing of a dishwasher with its door open.
| Electrical supply | 220-240V, 50Hz |
| Supply water pressure | 0.04MPa-1.0MPa |
| Supply water temperature | below 60°C |
For basic operation instructions, please refer to the instruction manual attached with each unit.
Water Circuit
Water Circuit Scheme
Note: This page is for models with common inlet hose.
A schematic diagram illustrating the water circuit of the dishwasher. It shows the inlet hose connecting to an inlet valve, then to an air breaker and water softener. Water then flows to the upper and lower sprayer arms. The washing pump circulates water, and the drain pump removes it. The diagram uses colored lines to indicate different water routes: magenta for inlet water, blue for drain water, and cyan for cycle water.
Inlet water route (magenta): Water enters through the inlet hose and inlet valve, passes through the water softener, and then to the tub via the sprayer arms.
Drain water route (blue): Water is pumped out from the sump by the drain pump.
Cycle water route (cyan): Water is circulated by the washing pump, sprayed onto dishes, collects in the sump, and is re-pumped.
Note: This page is for models with aquastop hose.
Similar to the previous water circuit diagram, but notes that the Inlet valve is involved in the aquastop hose.
Process Description
Process of water inlet (indicated by magenta route): In this process, the regeneration water route is cut off, and the main water route is open. Water is softened by the softener and enters the tub. Some inlet water is stored in the air breaker for regeneration.
Process of cycle washing (indicated by blue route): The washing pump motor drives the cycle washing. Water is pumped through the washing pump, into the spray arms, out through the nozzles onto the dishes, into the sump, and back to the washing pump for the next cycle.
Location and Theory of Parts
PCB (Printed Circuit Board)
A diagram showing the internal layout of the dishwasher, with labels pointing to key components like the Inlet valve, Washing Pump, Heater, Main PCB, Drain Pump, and Softener.
The Printed Circuit Board (PCB) is the control center of the dishwasher, receiving and processing signals from components, sending commands, and managing feedback.
Access PCB
The PCB can be accessed from a protecting box in the bottom of the machine.
- Disconnect power supply.
- Remove cutlery basket, basket, and filter system.
- Take out the protecting box.
- Remove the screws securing the PCB to the protecting box.
- Disconnect the connectors from the PCB.
- Remove the PCB.
- Reverse the above procedure to install.
View of PCB
A detailed schematic of the PCB, showing various components, connectors (CON1, CON2, etc.), and integrated circuits. It is labeled as applying to the 7601S model.
PCB Component Description
| NO. | Mark | Function |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | ML-H | Higher-speed Washing Pump |
| 2 | PS | Drain Pump |
| 3 | EV1 | Inlet Valve |
| 4 | P01/P02 | Heating Element |
| 5 | EV2 | Regeneration Valve of Softener |
| 6 | EV3 | Diverter Valve |
| 7 | ML-L | Lower-speed Washing Pump |
| 8 | D/Ed | Dispenser |
| 9 | FAN | Fan |
| 10 | BUZ1 | Buzzer |
| 11 | LIGHT | Top light |
| 12 | RE | Thermistor |
| 13 | IS | Door |
| 14 | IAQS | Overflow detect |
| 15 | ISS | Salt detect |
| 16 | ISB | Rinse detect |
| 17 | FM | Flowmeter |
| 18 | TURB | Turbidity detect |
Note: There may be small differences in pole location between models, but the marks on the PCB have the same meaning as described.
Inlet Valve
Location of Inlet Valve
A view from the bottom of the dishwasher showing the location of the inlet valve.
Appearance
An illustration of the inlet valve, showing its terminals, connection to the air breaker, and the electric coil inside.
The Work Principle
The inlet valve is an electromagnetic valve that controls water entry. When the appliance requires water, the controller sends an electric signal to the coils to open the valve. The valve consists of an electric coil, valve body, valve pole, and filter. It allows water to enter the machine upon receiving a command from the controller.
The Defeat Point
- Valve coil is broken: Valve cannot open, causing E1 error.
- Filter is jammed: Water cannot enter, causing E1 error.
- Connector is loose: Valve cannot open, causing E1 error.
- Valve pole is rusted or locked by debris: Valve cannot open or close, causing E1 or E4 error.
Technical Data
| Nominal voltage | 220-240VAC |
| Frequency | 50/60Hz |
| Resistance | Approx:3.4 - 4.4kΩ |
| Work duty | 100%ED T25 |
| Flux | 2.5L/min 15% |
| Power | 5W |
| Work Pressure | MAX.Working Pressure 1MPa |
Access Inlet Valve
- Disconnect power.
- Remove the water inlet hose (Caution: be careful of remaining water drop).
- Remove the cover of the bottom board.
- Disconnect the 2 terminal lugs from the inlet valve.
- Pull out the valve slightly, then contrarotate it to remove.
- Remove the clamp and disconnect the inlet hose (to air breaker) from the water valve.
- Reverse above procedures to install.
Inspect Inlet Valve
Check Electric Part
- Open the protecting box and take out the PCB.
- With the door closed, unplug the CON3 and ACN wires. Use a multi-meter (Ω setting) to measure resistance between the blue wire (EV1) and the blue wire (ACN). Normal resistance is about 4.4kΩ to 4.8kΩ.
- If the measured resistance is incorrect, the valve coil may be broken or the connector loose. Check the connection first. If the problem persists after re-connection, replace the valve.
- If the resistance is OK, inspect the valve body.
Check Machine Part
- If the electric part is OK, check the machine part.
- Check the valve filter. If blocked, clear the residues.
- If the filter is clear and water still doesn't enter, check if the valve operates. If not, replace the valve.
- If water continues to enter, replace the valve.
Drain Pump
Location of Drain Pump
A view from the bottom of the dishwasher showing the location of the drain pump.
The Work Principle
The drain pump consists of an electrical motor, impeller, inlet, and outlet. It is driven by a permanent magnet synchronous motor with a rotor made of permanent magnet material, offering very small running inertia. The stator is made of silicon steel stack and coil, allowing the rotor to start easily when power is applied.
The Defeat Point
- Motor coil is broken: Drain pump cannot work, causing E1 error.
- Weak motor rotor magnetism: Drain pump cannot work, causing E1 error.
- Loose connector: Drain pump cannot work, causing E1 error.
- Rotor is locked by residues: Drain pump cannot work, causing E1 error.
- Loose drain pump assembly rack: Causes noise.
- Bad non-return valve: Causes remaining water.
Explanatory notes: A drain pump failure can cause E1 error because if water is not drained, the pressure switch may cut off the inlet valve in the next inflow process, preventing water entry.
Technical Data
| Nominal voltage | 220-240VAC |
| Frequency | 50Hz |
| Resistance | 235Ω ± 15Ω |
| Delivery height | 1M |
| Delivery performance | ≥17l/min(230VAC) |
Access Drain Pump
- Drain off water from the dishwasher and disconnect the power supply. (Note: Ensure no water remains to avoid wetting the floor.)
- Remove the cover of the bottom board. (Note: Loosen top hooks first, then side hooks. Be careful not to break hooks.)
- Label and disconnect the two terminal lugs from the drain pump.
- Contrarotate the drain pump to take it off.
- Reverse the above procedure to install.
Inspect Drain Pump
Check the Electric Part
- Open the protecting box and take out the PCB.
- With the door closed, unplug the CON3 and ACN wires. Use a multi-meter (Ω setting) to measure resistance between the red wire (PS) and blue wire (ACN). Normal resistance is about 220Ω to 250Ω.
- If the measured resistance is incorrect, the pump coil may be broken or the connector loose. Check the connection first. If the problem persists after re-connection, replace the drain pump.
- If resistance is OK but the pump doesn't work, the magnetism may be too weak; replace the drain pump.
Check the Machine Part
- If the electric part is OK, check the machine part.
- Remove the bottom board.
- If the non-return valve is wrongly assembled, much water will remain in the tub. Re-assemble the non-return valve.
- If the drain pump is working but no water drains out or only a little, check the drain hose or drain body.
Heater
Location of Heater
A view from the bottom of the dishwasher showing the location of the heater.
The Work Principle
The heater consists of a heating element and a pressure switch, connected via a fuse.
Technical Data
| Nominal voltage | 220-240VAC |
| Rating power | 1800W |
| Resistance | 27.0-29.83Ω |
| Fuse | G5 184 C |
The Defeat Point
- Heater coil is broken: Heater cannot work, causing E3 error.
- Fuse is active: Heater cannot work, causing E3 error.
- Connector is loose: Heater cannot work, causing E3 error.
Access Heater
- Drain off water in the dishwasher and disconnect the power supply. (Note: Ensure no water remains to avoid wetting the floor.)
- Remove bottom board.
- Label and disconnect the terminals.
- Remove the 2 clamps for fixing the pump hoses. (Caution: Clamps are easily damaged and cannot be reused. Replace with a new universal clamp.)
- Contrarotate the upper pump to take it off.
- Reverse above procedures to install.
Inspect Heater
- Remove bottom board.
- With the door closed, use a multi-meter (Ω setting) to measure resistance between the two terminals. Normal resistance is about 27Ω to 30Ω.
- If the measured resistance is incorrect, the heater coil or thermostat is broken. Replace the heating element or thermostat.
Washing Pump
Location of Washing Pump
A view from the bottom of the dishwasher showing the location of the washing pump.
The Work Principle
The washing pump is a type of asynchronous motor with a capacitor. The stator consists of silicon steel stack and two coils: a main coil and an assistant coil. The diagram shows a simplified electrical connection with BLUE and RED/BLACK wires indicating coils and a temperature sensor (150°C).
The Defeat Point
- Motor coil is broken: Wash pump cannot work, causing E3 error.
- Weak motor rotor capacitor: Washing pump cannot start, may emit electromagnetic noise. If the motor continues to be electrified, the thermal protector will work, causing E3 error.
- Loose connector: Wash pump cannot work, causing E3 error.
- Rotor is locked by residues: Wash pump cannot work, causing E3 error.
- Loose drain pump assembly bracket: Causes noise.
- Machine not used for a long time: May prevent the wash pump from starting.
Technical Data
| Models | YXW50-2E |
|---|---|
| Items | |
| Nominal voltage | 220-240VAC |
| Frequency | 50Hz |
| Resistance | Main coil: 116.2 7%Ω, Assistant: 101.5 7%Ω, M1:41.4 7%Ω |
| Delivery height | 1.8m |
| Delivery performance | ≥46l/min(235VAC) |
| Lock rotor current | 0.44 15%(230VAC) |
| Operating current | 0.96 10%(230VAC) |
| Capacitor | 3μF 425V |
Access Washing Pump
- Disconnect power.
- Remove bottom board.
- Label and disconnect the terminals.
- Remove the 2 clamps for fixing the pump hoses. (Caution: Clamps are easily damaged and cannot be reused. Replace with a new universal clamp.)
- Contrarotate the upper pump to take it off.
- Remove the 1 screw fixing the impeller to the pump.
- Remove the 2 screws fixing the lower pump to the motor.
- Reverse above procedures to install.
Inspect Washing Pump
Check the Electric Part
- Open the control panel and take out the PCB.
- With the door closed, unplug CON1 and CON2. Use a multi-meter (Ω setting) to test resistance between two wires (ML-H and ACN). Normal resistance is about 100Ω to 130Ω. Test resistance between two wires (ML-H and ML-L). Normal resistance is about 350Ω to 450Ω.
- If any resistance is incorrect, the pump coil may be broken or the connector loose. Check the connection first. If the problem persists after re-connection, replace the washing pump.
- If resistance is OK but it cannot work, the capacitor may be weak. Replace the capacitor.
Check the Machine Part
- If the electric part is OK, check the machine part.
- Remove bottom board.
- Check the pump assembly. If the bracket is loose, it will cause noise; tighten it.
- If the wash pump cannot start and the machine hasn't been used for a long time, the seal element may be bonded.
- If the drain pump is working but no water or little water drains out, check the vane wheel.
NTC (Negative Temperature Coefficient Thermistor)
Location of NTC
A view from the bottom of the dishwasher showing the location of the NTC, integrated into the sump.
The Work Principle
The Negative Temperature Coefficient Thermistor is integrated into the sump and used for measuring the temperature of water in the tub.
Access NTC
- Remove bottom board.
- Remove two screws securing the NTC to the sump (as shown in the picture).
- Take out NTC.
- Reverse the above procedure to install.
Inspect NTC
- Open the protecting box and take out the PCB.
- With the door closed, unplug the RE connector. Use a multi-meter (Ω setting) to test resistance between the two blue wires (RE and GND). The normal resistance is shown in the table below.
- If the resistance is incorrect, there is a problem with the NTC circuit. Check the connection first. If the problem persists after re-connection, replace the NTC.
NTC Resistance Table
| Temperature | Resistance |
| 15°C | 17.48kΩ |
| 20°C | 12.12kΩ |
| 25°C | 10kΩ |
| 30°C | 8.299kΩ |
| 40°C | 5.807kΩ |
| 50°C | 4.144kΩ |
| 60°C | 3.011kΩ |
| 70°C | 2.224kΩ |
| 80°C | 1.667kΩ |
| 85°C | 1.451kΩ |
Flowmeter
Location of Flowmeter
A view from the bottom of the dishwasher showing the location of the flowmeter, integrated into the Air Breaker.
The Work Principle
The Flowmeter is integrated into the Air Breaker and measures the amount of water entering the appliance. It consists of an impeller, tongue tube, and terminal. When water passes through, it rotates a magnetic impeller. The tongue tube senses the impeller's magnetic field and sends electronic pulses.
Access Flowmeter
- Remove the baseboard, top panel, and left side panel.
- Remove the plastic nut inside the tub that secures the air breaker to the tub (replace the air breaker if the flowmeter fails, as they are integrated).
- Disconnect the wire and remove the clamp fastening the hose to the air breaker.
- Take out the air breaker.
- Reverse the above procedure to install.
Inspect Flowmeter
- Open the protecting box and take out the PCB.
- With the door closed, unplug the CON2 wire. Use a multi-meter (Diode setting) to test between the black wire (FM) and blue wire (GND) to confirm if electrical pulses are sent out while water passes through the flowmeter.
- If there are continual electrical pulses, the multi-meter will emit a continuous "de" sound.
- If there are no electrical pulses, the multi-meter will not sound. This indicates a problem with the flowmeter circuit. Check the connection first. If the problem persists after re-connection, replace the air breaker.
Safety Hose
Location of Safety Hose
A view from the bottom of the dishwasher showing the location of the safety hose.
The Work Principle
There are two types of Safety Hose: Mechanical Aquastop Hose and Electronic Aquastop Hose, each with different principles and assembly modes.
Mechanical Aquastop Hose
Images show a two-layer hose and foaming material inside.
This hose has two layers. If water leaks and fills the air space between the layers, the foaming material expands and locks the hose, potentially causing an E1 alarm.
Electronic Aquastop Hose
Images show a two-layer hose with an electromagnetism valve inside, and a connection to the air breaker.
This hose also has two layers. If water leaks onto the bottom tray, a flooding pressure switch activates the electromagnetic valve on the hose, cutting off the water supply and causing an E4 alarm.
Access Safety Hose
Images show the clamp and connection points for the safety hose.
- Remove baseboard, side baseboard, top panel, and left side panel.
- Remove clamp, cut the bound belt, and disconnect the wire connector. Then the inlet hose can be pulled out.
- Reverse the above procedure to assemble.
Inspect Safety Hose
Electronic Aquastop Hose
- Open the protecting box and take out the PCB.
- With the door closed, unplug the CON3 and ACN wires. Use a multi-meter (Ω setting) to measure resistance between the blue wire (EV1) and blue wire (ACN). Open circuit and short circuit are both incorrect.
- If the measured resistance is incorrect, the valve coil is broken or the connector is loose. Check the connection first. If the problem persists after re-connection, replace the safety hose.
Mechanical Aquastop Hose
Moisture absorption of the foaming material in the mechanical device can cause a self-lock fault (preventing water fill), which is non-resettable.
Test Program
This section describes a test program designed to check component operation and diagnose malfunctions.
How to activate Test Program
To activate the test program, with the door opened and within 60 seconds after power on, hold down the Start/Pause button and press the POWER button until the machine enters Test Program. The appliance will pause and stand by (as step 00). Then close the door to start the Test Program.
Test Program Operation Table
| How to activate | Test Program Operation |
|---|---|
| Test program | With door opened, Start & Pause+Power |
| Start Test Program | Close the door |
| Jump into next step | Start & Pause |
Test Program Steps and Error Codes
| Step | Program |
|---|---|
| E1 | Cloud Wash |
| E3 | Cloud Wash+Rapid |
| E4 | 90 min |
| E6 | 90 min+Rapid |
| E7 | 90 min+Rapid+Cloud Wash |
| Ed | ECO+90 min+Cloud Wash |
During test program running, you can press the Start/Pause button to jump into the next step (except the inlet valve step).
Note: 1. The activation method may differ slightly between models. 2. Switch off the unit from the wall, then switch on before following the instructions above to activate the test cycle.
Procedure of Test Program
(for models controlling water filling by flowmeter)
| No. | Process | Description |
|---|---|---|
| 0 | Initialization | Power on, stand by |
| 1 | Inlet Valve | Open inlet valve and feeds with 3.6L water (45cm model feeds with 3.0L water). If the model is equipped with a diverter, it would move to position rotating both upper and lower spray arms. |
| 2 | Higher-speed Washing Pump and Heating Element | Run higher-speed washing pump and 10s later run heating element until the water temperature reaches 57°C. Then the machine will pause. Press Start/Pause button to jump into the next step. |
| 3 | Lower-speed Washing Pump and Dispenser | 2s later run lower-speed washing pump for 8s, dispenser will act for 45s in this step. |
| 4 | Regeneration Valve | Open regeneration valve for 30s. |
| 5 | Drain Pump | Drain for 30s. |
| 6 | finish | Buzz one sound, stop, and stand by. |
Error Code
How to know which error code has occurred
Refer to the Test Program Operation table. For example, if error 1 occurs, the buzzer alarms for 30 seconds and "E1" is displayed. Other errors are indicated similarly. If error 7 occurs (e.g., 5303), the buzzer alarms for 30 seconds and ECO, 90min, and Rapid indicators flash simultaneously.
Error Code Indicator Combinations
The table shows the relation between indicator combinations and error codes for ECO, 90 min, Rapid, and Cloud Wash programs.
| Error Code | ECO | 90 min | Rapid | Cloud Wash |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E1/Water filling exceed pre-set time | ○ | ● | ○ | ○ |
| E3/Heating exceed pre-set time | ○ | ● | ● | ○ |
| E4/Overflow | ○ | ○ | ○ | ● |
| E6/Open-circuit failure of thermistor | ● | ○ | ○ | ○ |
| E7/Short-circuit failure of thermistor | ○ | ○ | ● | ○ |
| Ed/Communication Failure | ○ | ○ | ○ | ○ |
Notice: The majority of models follow this regulation.
Attention
Priority level of E4 is the highest. E4 operation is valid only after other error operations have completed. When E4 operation is done, all others become invalid. In test program, E1, E3, E4, E6, E7, Ed are valid.
How does the appliance react when error code occurred
- E1 Water filling exceed pre-set time: If inlet valve is open for 4 mins but water quantity is insufficient, E1 occurs. Drain pump runs until flowmeter is motionless for 2 mins, other components stop. Buzzer alarms for 30s, "Error 1" shown.
- E3 Heating exceed pre-set time: If heating element works for 60 mins but water temperature is not reached, E3 occurs. Drain pump runs until flowmeter is motionless for 2 mins, other components stop. Buzzer alarms for 30s, "Error 3" shown.
- E4 Overflow: If overflow micro-switch activates for >2 seconds, E4 occurs. Drain pump runs until flowmeter is motionless for 2 mins, other components stop. Buzzer alarms for 30s, "Error 4" shown. (Priority level of E4 is highest.)
- E6 Open-circuit failure of thermistor: Detected by controller, E6 occurs. Drain pump runs until flowmeter is motionless for 2 mins, other components stop. Buzzer alarms for 30s, "Error 6" shown.
- E7 Short-circuit failure of thermistor: Detected by controller, E7 occurs. Drain pump runs until flowmeter is motionless for 2 mins, other components stop. Buzzer alarms for 30s, "Error 7" shown.
- Ed Communication failure: If display board shows communication data anomalies for 20 seconds, Ed occurs. Check display board connections, reinsert connecting line, and power on again.
Inspection Trees
E1 code: Longer inlet time
A flowchart for diagnosing E1 error (Longer inlet time).
Starts with checking water in the tub. If no water, check inlet hose of AQUASTOP or tap. If little water, check tap. If opened, check inlet hose. If OK, check Inlet Valve circuit. If model has Flowmeter, check its circuit. If model has Pressure Switch, check its circuit. If still wrong, check Flowmeter circuit. If OK, check Pressure Switch circuit. If OK, check Drain Hose. If OK, check PCB.
E3: Longer heating time
A flowchart for diagnosing E3 error (Longer heating time).
Starts with checking water temperature. If high, check over-heat proof micro-switch. If low, check filter. If OK, check Heater. If OK, check Washing Pump circuit. If OK, check NTC circuit.
E4: Overflow
A flowchart for diagnosing E4 error (Overflow).
Starts with checking for water on the bottom board. If some water, check Flooding Switch circuit. If no water, check Drain Hose. If OK, check Flowmeter circuit (if applicable) or Pressure Switch circuit (if applicable). If correct, check for real leakage.
E6&E7&Ed tree: Inspection
Flowcharts for diagnosing E6 (Open-circuit failure of thermistor), E7 (Short-circuit failure of thermistor), and Ed (Communication failure).
For E6/E7: Check NTC circuit. If OK, check Flowmeter circuit. If OK, replace NTC. If still wrong, replace NTC.
For Ed: Check if main control board and display board signal wire is loose. If NO, replace PCB assembly board. If YES, check connection. If correct, proceed.
If the problem has not been solved through all the inspection mentioned above, the PCB may have a malfunction. Replace PCB and test again.
Caution: Because the real situation is unpredictable, inspection trees mentioned in this manual are for reference only.
Troubleshooting
E1 Longer inlet time
| Symptom | Possible Reason | Analysis | Operation | Remedy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E1 Longer inlet time | Check the AQUA STOP hose | Defective AQUA STOP hose might cut off the water inlet route | For mechanical AQUA STOP hose, check whether the mechanical device is lock or not. For electronic AQUA STOP hose, check whether the valve circuit is ok or not. | Replace the hose |
| check the water supply | the tap isn't open | check whether the tap open or not | give advice | |
| check the inlet valve | inlet hose is blocked or kinked | unblock or unkink | reconnect or replace the hose | |
| loosing connection or defective inlet valve might cause the E1 alarm | check the circuit of inlet valve | reconnect or replace the valve | ||
| check the flowmeter | for models with flowmeter, defective flowmeter might cause the E1 alarm | check the circuit of flowmeter | reconnect or replace flowmeter | |
| check the pressure switch (83/63) | for models controlling water filling by pressure switch, defective pressure switch might cause the E1 alarm | check the circuit of pressure switch | reconnect or replace the pressure switch | |
| check the drain | wrong installation of drain hose might cause water siphon out | make sure it is installed properly. (refer to instruction manual) | reinstall drain hose | |
| check the PCB | defective PCB might cause the E1 alarm | When you have eliminated other possible causes, maybe there is something wrong with PCB | reconnect or replace PCB |
E3 Heating fault
| Symptom | Possible Reason | Analysis | Operation | Remedy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E3 heating fault | check filter | severely jammed filter might cause E3 alarm | Advice: Even though a dishwasher is constantly being pounded with water and soap, it needs an occasional cleaning. Food particles, hard water deposits, mildew, mold and bacteria can build up along surfaces and in crevices. Cleaning regularly keeps it functioning properly, keeps your family healthy and safe, and ensures sparkling dishes. | clean the filter and give advice |
| check the hydraulic pressure | low hydraulic pressure might cause the less filling water | make sure the hydraulic pressure is in the range from 0.04 to 1.0 Mpa. | give advice | |
| check the drain hose | wrong installation of drain hose might cause water siphon out | make sure it is installed properly. (refer to instruction manual) | reinstall drain hose | |
| check washing pump | washing pump doesn't running might cause E3 alarm | Listen to the sound of appliance to see whether washing pump run or not. Defective motor might cause the washing alarm. | replace the washing pump | |
| check heater and NTC | malfunction of heater or NTC might cause E3 alarm | Measure water temperature in tub continuously when test program is running to see whether temperature increasing (approx. 2°C/min) is normal and if appliance pauses when water temperature reaches 60°C. | replace the defective component | |
| check anti-drying pressure switch | abnormal anti-drying pressure switch might cause E3 alarm | If problem not found after checking other components, the anti-drying pressure switch is likely abnormal. | replace the anti-drying pressure switch | |
| check PCB | defective PCB also might cause E3 alarm, but its probability is small. | When you have eliminated other possible causes, try changing the PCB. | reconnect or replace PCB |
E4 Overflow
| Symptom | Possible Reason | Analysis | Operation | Remedy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E4 overflow | chech whether the appliance is level | if appliance is not level, it might cause the E4 alarm | make sure the appliance is level | level appliance |
| check the drain pump | defective drain pump might cause the E4 alarm | The first step of all washing programs is drain, which could be used to test whether drain pump works normally or not. | replace the drain pump | |
| check the amount of filling water | too much filling water could make a overflow | For models controlling water filling by pressure switch (83/63), run test program and check whether the amount of filling water is normal or not. For models controlling water filling by flowmeter, run test program and check whether the amount of filling water is normal or not. | replace the pressure switch (83/63) or replace the flowmeter | |
| check the float microswitch | sticking float microswitch could cause the E4 alarm | Disassemble the bottom tray and check whether the float microswitch moves freely up and down. | repair or replace the float microswitch | |
| find where leakage is | there is a real leakage | Finding where leakage to find and solve problem, do as suggestion mentioned in service manual. | repair or replace the defective component |
E6 & E7 open-circuit & short-circuit
| Symptom | Possible Reason | Analysis | Operation | Remedy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| E6 & E7 open-circuit & short-circuit | check the NTC thermistor | if the appliance detects the malfunction of NTC thermistor, E6 or E7 would be set off | check the NTC circuit and measure the resistance of NTC thermistor. | reconnect or replace the NTC thermistor |
| check the PCB | if the NTC thermistor is ok, but the alarm still be set off, the PCB might have defect | change the PCB to see if the appliance is run normally. | reconnect or replace PCB | |
| check the loading | improper loading could block the spray arm | following the advice on how to load mentioned in instruction manual, which is the necessary condition of getting good dishes and silverware properly. | give advice |
poor washing performance
| Symptom | Possible Reason | Analysis | Operation | Remedy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| poor washing performance | check the use of detergent and rinse aid | improper amount of detergent and rinse aid and poor quality detergent and rinse aid might cause poor performance | refer to instruction manual | give advice |
| check the setting of salt consumption | improper salt consumption might cause the poor performance | Observe whether there are water spots or white film on washed dishes and glass caused by hard water mineral. If water is too hard, adjust salt consumption. (refer to instruction manual) | adjust salt consumption | |
| check dispenser | malfunction of dispenser might cause the poor performance | Run the test program to see whether dispenser opens normally. | replace the dispenser | |
| check the water level | less water might cause the poor performance | Make sure the appliance is level. Wrong installation of drain hose might cause water siphon out, so ensure it is installed properly. Low hydraulic pressure might cause less filling water. For models with flowmeter, defective flowmeter might cause less filling water. For models with pressure switch, defective pressure switch might cause less filling water. Defective PCB might also cause less water, but probability is small. Last resort is to replace PCB. | level appliance, reinstall drain hose, give advice, replace flowmeter, replace pressure switch, replace PCB | |
| check heater and NTC | malfunction of heater or NTC might cause E3 alarm | Measure water temperature in tub continuously during test program to see if temperature increases (approx. 2°C/min) normally and if appliance pauses when water temperature reaches 60°C. | replace the defective component | |
| check washing pump | washing pump not running | Listen to the sound of appliance to see whether washing pump runs or not. | replace the washing pump |
poor drying performance
| Symptom | Possible Reason | Analysis | Operation | Remedy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| poor drying performance | check loading | improper loading might cause water remains on the dishes. | Make sure to tilt dishes and load glass bottom-side-up, following instruction manual for proper loading. | give advice |
| check the using program | improper program might cause poor performance | refer to instruction manual | give advice | |
| check rinse aid dispenser | Rinse aid ensures food and chemical residues are not redeposited. Malfunction might cause poor rinse. | Make sure rinse aid container is not empty and rinse aid is released normally in the cycle. Air drying can be sped up by opening the dishwasher after finishing to let moist air escape as dishes cool. | fill rinse aid or replace dispenser |
noise
| Symptom | Possible Reason | Analysis | Operation | Remedy |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| noise | check whether the noise is normal | some audible sounds are normal | - | give advice |
| check the loading | dishes are not secure in the rack or something small has dropped | Ensure everything is secured in the dishwasher. | reload and give advice | |
| check the washing pump | malfunction of washing pump might make an abnormal noise | check the washing motor whether run normally. | replace washing pump | |
| check the drain pump | blocked or defective drain pump might make an abnormal noise | check the drain motor whether run correctly. | replace drain pump |
