The Project
Lightweight and elegant, this top is made from muslin with a Crêpe de Chine lining. The shoulders with raglan sleeves are adorned with a raised seam, designed using Elna's Stitch Composer software for creating custom stitches. The exclusive stitch is available on the Elna website (elna.com) under the 'Inspirations' section and is compatible with the eXcellence 780+, eXpressive 860, and 920 machines.
Materials
- 120 cm Crêpe de Chine silk (as lining fabric)
- 120 cm double-sided muslin silk
- 60 cm x 60 cm of fabric decorated with the Stitch Composer software stitch
- 1 button ?
- 5 mm wide and 4 cm long piping (from muslin scraps for the button loop)
- Sewing thread (in the color of the fabric)
- Basting thread, needle, pins, measuring tape, scissors ✂️
Machines
- Elna electronic sewing machine, e.g., from the eXperience or eXcellence series (this tutorial uses the eXcellence 780+).
Instructions
Step 1: Download and Prepare Pattern
1. Download the pattern from elna.com under 'Inspirations'. First, print only the page with the control square and check with a ruler that it measures exactly 10 cm x 10 cm. Then, print the remaining pages. The pattern consists of several sheets that need to be joined using the markings (lines and letters). Once the pattern is assembled, cut out the pattern pieces according to your measurements.
Diagram showing pattern layout with grainline indicated.
Step 2: Cutting
2. Cut the fabric pieces:
- From the lining fabric: Front and back pieces (on the fold) with 1.5 cm seam allowance on the sides and hem, and 1 cm seam allowance for the neckline and armholes. Sleeves on the bias grainline, with 1 cm seam allowance all around.
- From the muslin: Front and back pieces (on the fold) with 1.5 cm seam allowance on the sides and hem, and 1 cm seam allowance for the neckline and armholes. Mark the slit on the back.
Elna Tip No. 1: To make cutting lightweight and slippery fabrics easier, such as silk muslin or crêpe de Chine, cover your work surface with a patterned fabric beforehand. This prevents the fabric from slipping and makes it easier for you to trace the pattern and cut the fabric.
Step 3: Prepare and Cut Sleeves
3. If you previously prepared the fabric for the raglan sleeves with the Stitch Composer stitch, cut the sleeves from the fabric, leaving a 1 cm seam allowance all around. If you do not want decorated sleeves, cut the sleeves from the muslin with a 1 cm seam allowance.
Step 4: Attaching the Sleeves
4. Muslin: Place the back of the sleeves onto the back of the top, right sides together. Pin, baste if necessary, and stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. Join the front parts of the sleeves to the front of the top in the same way. Trim the seam allowance to 5 mm and then press the seams to the side.
Lining: Proceed with the lining in the same way as with the muslin.
Close-up of sewing machine stitching decorative pattern onto fabric.
Step 5: Joining the Side Seams (Flat-Felled Seam)
5. Place the two side pieces with their wrong sides together, so that the edges lie on top of each other. Pin and stitch 5 mm from the edge. Press the seam allowances and lay them to one side. Turn the top to the other side. The fabric is now right sides together. Now stitch the side seams again with a 1 cm seam allowance and press to one side. Proceed the same way with the lining side seams.
Step 6: Joining the Neckline
6. Place the muslin and the lining right sides together. Align the sleeve seams and the center markings on the front and back. Pin and baste together. Align the two markings for the back slit.
Diagram showing neckline preparation for slit and button loop.
Step 7: Finish Neckline Edge
7. Stitch the neckline 1 cm from the edge. Press the seam and trim the seam allowance to 5 mm.
Step 8: Create Back Slit
8. On both sides of the marking for the slit in the back piece, stitch at 4 mm. Leave a 1/4" (1 cm) opening for the button loop. Using fine scissors, cut between the two rows of stitching through both fabric layers.
Step 9: Attach Button Loop
9. Insert the button loop into the opening. Secure it with a basting stitch. Then, stitch the opening closed.
Step 10: Shape and Press Slit
10. Shape the corners of the back slit, turn the fabric to the right side, and press the neckline and the back slit.
Step 11: Topstitch Neckline
11. For a reinforced and emphasized neckline, topstitch the neckline close to the edge (approx. 2 mm) on the lining side. The seam allowance should also be on the lining side; stitch through it as well.
Step 12: Attach Button
12. Sew the button ? by hand onto the other side of the back slit.
Step 13: Sewing the Sleeve Hems
13. Turn the sleeve hems to the wrong side between the two fabric layers. Pin and baste if necessary, then stitch 1 cm from the edge. Turn the hems right side out again in the same way and then press from the right side.
Image of finished sleeve detail.
Step 14: Closing the Armholes
14. To close the armholes, pull the top to the wrong side in the same way as the sleeve hems (between the two fabric layers). Place the muslin onto the lining, right sides together. Pin and baste if necessary, then stitch 1 cm from the edge. Trim the seam allowance to 2 mm, then turn the fabric and press the seams from the right side.
Step 15: Finishing the Hems
15. Turn the top to the wrong side. Fold the lining hem by approx. 4 mm, press, and then fold again by 5 mm. Pin and baste, then stitch. Repeat the process with the muslin and press the hems.
Bravo, your blouse is now finished!
Elna International Corp. SA, all rights reserved.
Copyright: We hereby grant permission for the use of this documentation for non-commercial use only. The content of this documentation is the sole property of Elna International Corp. SA. This documentation does not grant any right to transfer any copyrights of Elna International Corp. SA to the user or third parties.
