EK-Quantum Vector XC3 RTX 3080/90 ABP Set D-RGB GPU Water Block User Guide

Preparing the Graphics Card

Removing the Stock Cooler

Option 1: GPU Versions Without a Backplate

You will need a Phillips Head Screwdriver. Use it to remove the eleven marked screws and the Stock Cooler Backplate from the backside of the GPU. Do not remove the unmarked I/O Bracket screw. Carefully detach the PCB from the stock cooler and disconnect all cables connecting the stock cooler to the PCB. Remove the stock cooler slowly, as it might be firmly attached with thermal pads.

Option 2: GPU Versions With a Backplate

You will need a Phillips Head Screwdriver. Use it to remove the twelve marked screws and the Stock Cooler Backplate from the backplate's side. Carefully detach the PCB from the stock cooler and the backplate, and disconnect all cables connecting the stock cooler to the PCB. Remove the stock cooler slowly, as it might be firmly attached with thermal pads.

Cleaning the PCB

Wipe off the remains of the original thermal compound using a non-abrasive cloth or Q-tip until the components and circuit board are completely clean. Denatured alcohol is recommended for removing TIM leftovers. After that, remove all remaining stock thermal pads from the PCB.

Preparing the Water Block for Installation

Removing Terminal Components

DO NOT REMOVE THE UPPER TERMINAL BADGE. First, remove the terminal badge attached to the terminal with two magnets. Under the badge, unscrew three (3) screws M4x20 DIN7984. Additionally, remove eight (8) screws M3x10 AX1 as shown in the image. Carefully remove the complete active backplate with the terminal. Remove two (2) O-rings 14 x 1 EPDM50.

Removing Standoffs and PCB Cardboard

You will need the EK-Plug Out Spludger Tool. Unscrew eight (8) M2.5-M3 x 6.6 standoffs using the tool. Ensure you do not unscrew the M3.5-M2.5 x 11.3 standoff; if it unscrews, carefully tighten it back with the 4 mm wrench. After removing the standoffs, remove the PCB cardboard, which is printed on a 1:1 scale.

Cutting and Placing Thermal Pads

Your GPU water block comes with thermal pads that must be cut into smaller pieces to cover all VRM components, such as COILs, MOSFETs, and drivers. Remove the protective foil from both sides of the thermal pad before installation. The cardboard is printed in scale 1:1; cut Thermal Pads to the size printed on the cardboard. Once cut, place the Thermal Pads on the block as shown in the picture. Before attaching the PCB to the Water Block, ensure all Thermal Pads are placed correctly. You will need scissors for this step.

Replacement thermal pads:

• Thermal Pad F 1.0 mm (120 x 16mm) EAN: 3830046996732
• Thermal Pad F 1.5 mm (120 x 16mm) EAN: 3830046996749
• Thermal Pad F 2.0 mm (120 x 16mm) EAN: 3830046996756

Thermal Pad Placement for Active Backplate:

RTX 3080 / 3080Ti: Place F1.5 pads on the first two positions from the left, then F2 pads on the remaining positions.

RTX 3090: Place F1.5 pads on the first and third positions from the left, F2 pads on the second and fourth positions, and F1 pads on the fifth and sixth positions.

Applying Thermal Compound

Apply the enclosed EK-TIM Ectotherm thermal grease (thermal compound) on the GPU heat spreader (IHS) as shown in the image. The layer of the thermal compound must be thin and even over the entire surface of the IHS. Excessive or uneven application may lead to poor performance. You will need the Thermal Grease for this step.

Attaching the Water Block

Step 1: Initial Placement

Carefully position the water block with pre-installed standoffs on the graphics card. Align the mounting holes of the PCB with the holes of the water block. Do not use too much force when pressing the block down to the PCB, as chip dies are prone to cracking. Ensure all thermal pads are correctly placed before attaching the PCB to the Water Block.

Step 2: Securing the PCB and I/O Bracket

Use six (6) M2.5 x 4 AX1 Screws and Polyamid Washers to tighten the PCB onto the water block. Tighten the screws evenly using a Phillips-head screwdriver. After attaching the PCB, use one (1) M2.5 x 8 AX1 Screw and one (1) M2.5 Nut to secure the I/O Bracket. You will need a Phillips Head Screwdriver for this step.

Step 3: Installing Standoffs

Place the M2.5-M3 x 6.6 Standoff in each of the eight (8) mounting holes of the standoff M3.5-M2.5 x 11.3, as shown in the image. Tighten them evenly with the EK-Plug-Out Spludger Tool. Do not use excessive force. You will need the EK-Plug Out Spludger Tool for this step.

Attaching the Active Backplate

Step 1: Placing Thermal Pads

After attaching the water block, place additional thermal pads on the backside of the GPU PCB. Cut thermal pads to size as illustrated. EK provides an adequate quantity of thermal pads.

Replacement thermal pads:

• Thermal Pad F 1.0 mm (120 x 16mm) EAN: 3830046996732
• Thermal Pad F 1.5 mm (120 x 16mm) EAN: 3830046996749
• Thermal Pad F 2.0 mm (120 x 16mm) EAN: 3830046996756

Thermal Pad Placement for Active Backplate:

RTX 3080 / 3080Ti: Place F1.5 pads on the first two positions from the left, then F2 pads on the remaining positions.

RTX 3090: Place F1.5 pads on the first and third positions from the left, F2 pads on the second and fourth positions, and F1 pads on the fifth and sixth positions.

Step 2: Positioning the Active Backplate

Insert two (2) O-rings 14 x 1 into the slots on the cold plate. Carefully place the active backplate onto the standoffs as shown in the image. Ensure the O-rings remain in their slots while positioning the active backplate onto the PCB. Before attaching the Active Backplate, ensure all Thermal Pads are placed correctly.

Step 3: Securing the Active Backplate

Place eight (8) M3 x 10 AX1 screws into the water block standoffs and tighten them using a Phillips head screwdriver. After attaching the AX1 Screws, attach three (3) terminal screws M4 x 20 DIN7984 using the Allen Key 2.5mm. The terminal badge can be reused after securing the terminal screws. Pay attention not to use too much force when tightening the active backplate. You will need a Phillips Head Screwdriver and an Allen Key 2.5mm for this step.

Fittings and Tubing

Screw-in two (2) G1/4 threaded male fittings. Attach the liquid cooling tubes and connect the water block to the cooling loop. Plug the remaining two openings using the enclosed EK-Plug G1/4 or its equivalent. EK recommends using EK fittings with all EK water blocks. CAUTION: When using connectors other than EK fittings, pay special attention to the length of the fittings' male G1/4" thread – 5mm is the maximum G1/4" thread length allowed. You will need the EK-Loop Multi Allen Key for this step.

Inserting the Graphics Card into the Chassis

Carefully lift your graphics card with the installed water block and insert it into your PC's motherboard PCI Express expansion slot. Keep in mind that your graphics card is heavier than before it was equipped with the water block. Handle the graphics card with extreme care. Avoid all unnecessary manipulation of the water block assembly that might damage your card or water block.

Connecting the D-RGB LED Strip

Plug the 3-pin connector of the distribution plate D-RGB LED light to the D-RGB HEADER on the motherboard. The LED will work if the pin layout on the header is as follows: +5V, Digital, Empty, Ground. Incorrect installation or installation to a wrong header can damage the LED strip or the header itself.

Testing the Loop

To ensure the successful installation of EK components, perform a leak test for 24 hours. When your loop is complete and filled with coolant, connect the pump to a PSU outside of your system. Do not connect power to any other components. Turn on the PSU and let the pump run continuously. It is normal for the coolant level to drop during this process as air collects in the distribution plate. Inspect all parts of the loop. In the eventuality that coolant leaks, fix the issue and repeat the testing process. Ensure that all hardware is dry before the system is powered on to prevent any damage.