Everbilt Convertible Jet Pump Use and Care Guide

Application

This unit is a convertible jet pump designed for pumping water where the water level is less than 70 ft. deep. If the water level to the pump is deeper than 70 ft., a deep well submersible pump should be selected. A pressure switch pre-set at 30 psi "on"/ 50 psi "off" has been installed on the pump. The pressure switch will automatically turn the pump on and off based on the system pressure.

Tools Required

• Flathead Screwdriver
• Phillips Screwdriver
• Wrench
• Safety goggles
• PVC Primer
• PVC Cement
• Tape Measure
• Thread Tape

Package Contents

Specifications

Determine the Depth of Your Well

Tie a small but heavy weight such as a fishing weight to the end of a piece of cotton string. Lower the weight into the well until it reaches the bottom of the well. Make a mark on the string at ground level. Pull the weight out of the well and measure from the bottom of the weight to the ground level mark. This is the depth of your well. Subtract 5 ft. from the depth of your well. If this number is less than 25 ft., shallow well installation should be taken. If this number is more than 25 ft. and less than 70 ft., deep well installation should be taken. If this number is more than 70 ft., a deep well submersible pump should be selected. Measure the ground level mark to the mark where the cotton string is wetted. This number is your well's water level. It should also be at least 10 ft. below the well's water level while the pump is running in order to prevent the pump from sucking air due to water level drawdown.

Location of the Pump

Decide on the area for the pump installation. Select a pump location with adequate space for future pump maintenance. It can be located in the basement or utility room of the house, at the well, or between the house and the well. If installed outside of the house, it should be protected by a pump house with auxiliary heat to prevent possible freezing. Protect the pump against flooding and excess moisture. The well also should be protected for sanitary reasons. Mount the pump as close to the well as possible.

Tanks - Pre-Charged Storage

For best performance of the pump, it is recommended that you use a diaphragm pressure tank (sold separately). It is best to have this in place before installing the pump. A pre-charged storage tank has a flexible bladder or diaphragm that acts as a barrier between the compressed air and water. This barrier prevents the air from being absorbed into the water and allows the water to be acted on by compressed air at initially higher than atmospheric pressures (pre-charged). More usable water is provided than with a conventional type tank.

CAUTION: In order for the pump and tank to operate properly, the pressure tank needs to be drained of all water BEFORE INSTALLING THE NEW PUMP. After draining, if you are using the supplied 30/50 psi pressure switch at the pre-set settings, add or adjust the air pressure in the tank to 28 psi of pressure BEFORE startup.

Materials Required (Not Included)

• One can PVC cement & primer (read instructions carefully)
• One can thread compound (read instructions carefully)
• Thread tape
• Rigid pipe
• Check valve
• Flexible plastic pipe/clamps
• Tank tee
• One well seal with vent plug
• Foot valve
• Priming tee and plug
• Relief valve
• Adaptor
• Tank

⚠️ WARNING: All joints and connections must be AIRTIGHT. A single leak will prevent the proper operation of the pump. Wrap thread tape clockwise on all threaded connections. For all non-threaded connections, you must use PVC Purple Primer and PVC Cement to ensure airtight seals. Measure all pipe lengths before attaching.

NOTE: A foot valve is a check valve that is used to keep the water from running back into the well from the pump and maintain hydraulic pressure when the pump is not running. If the foot valve does not hold the water the pump will lose it's prime and will not pump water. If the foot valve open pressure is too high (the spring is too stiff), or the flow area is too small, the pump suction head and flow rate will significantly drop.

NOTE: The suction pipe size should not be less than 1-1/4 in. The suction size of this pump is 1-1/4 in. FNPT.

Replacing an Existing Pump

⚠️ WARNING: Risk of electric shock. Can shock, burn or kill. Disconnect power to pump before working on pump or motor.

1. Drain and remove the old pump. Check the old pipe for scale, lime, rust, etc., and replace it if necessary.
2. Install the pressure gauge in the pump body.
3. Install the pump in the system. Make sure that all pipe joints in the suction pipe are air-tight as well as water tight. If the suction pipe can suck air, the pump will not be able to pull water from the well.
4. Adjust the pump mounting height so that the plumbing connections do not put a strain on the pump body. Support the pipe so that the pump body does not take the weight of piping or fittings.

You have just completed the well plumbing for your new shallow well jet pump. Please go to discharge pipe and tank connections.

Diagram: Illustration of a shallow well jet pump system setup, showing the pump connected to a tank via a discharge tee, flexible pipe, and rigid pipes leading to a well seal, which houses a pipe with a foot valve and strainer at the bottom. The diagram indicates depth measurements for the well components.

New Shallow Well Installation

CAUTION: To avoid skin burns, unplug the pump and allow time for it to cool after periods of extended use.

1. Connecting a rigid pipe to the foot valve
   Subtract 5 ft. from the depth of your well. This is the total length of rigid pipe. Connect one section of rigid pipe to the foot valve.
   ⚠️ WARNING: Read the cement instructions carefully and make sure the pipe connections are strong enough. This pump could build up to 70 psi pressure in the system. If the pipe joints are weak, the pipe and foot valve could pop out and fall into the well by the system high pressure.
2. Sliding the pipe assembly into the well
   Before sliding the pipe assembly into the well, firmly clamp the assembly with a pipe clamp (not included) to prevent the assembly from sliding down into the well.
   NOTE: DO NOT let the assembly slide down into the well.
   Diagram: Illustration showing a pipe assembly being lowered into a well, with depth markers for 5 ft., 10 ft., and 25 ft. max.
3. Sliding a well seal over the rigid pipe
   Remove the pipe clamp and slide a well seal (sold separately) over the rigid pipe and onto the well casing (not pictured). The rigid pipe should extend approximately 12 in. from the well seal, depending on the height of the pump. Tighten the well seal until the rubber gaskets are tight against the well casing and the rigid pipe.
   Diagram: Illustration showing a well seal being placed over pipes entering a well casing. The diagram indicates approximately 12 inches of pipe extending from the well seal.
4. Attaching a tee to the rigid pipe
   Attach a 1-1/4 in. tee and plug (sold separately) onto the rigid pipe extending from the well seal.

5. Connecting the rigid pipe to the pump inlet
   Install pressure gauge in the pump body. Mount the pump as close to the well as possible. Connect a section of 1-1/4 in. rigid pipe to the pump inlet. Attach a check valve (sold separately) to the other end of the rigid pipe. Attach a section of 1-1/4 in. rigid pipe to the other end of the check valve.
6. Connecting a flexible plastic pipe
   Connect a flexible plastic pipe to the 1-1/4 in. rigid pipe. Connect the other end of the plastic pipe to the rigid pipe extending from the well seal. Tighten the flexible plastic pipe two ends with clamps. Ensure the pipe slopes slightly toward the well (to prevent air trapping in the pipe).
7. Connecting a discharge tee to the pump
   Wrap thread tape around threads of a 1 in. discharge tee (sold separately). Using a pipe wrench, thread the 1 in. discharge tee into the discharge hole on the top of the pump.
   Diagram: Illustration showing the top of the pump with a 1-inch discharge tee being attached.
8. Connecting a PVC adaptor to the discharge tee
   Wrap thread tape around the threads of a 1 in. male PVC adaptor (sold separately). Thread the adaptor into the discharge tee.

9. Connecting a tank tee to the pressure tank
   Wrap all threads with thread tape. In order for the pump and the pressure tank (sold separately) to operate properly, the pressure tank needs to be drained of all water BEFORE INSTALLING IT TO THE PUMP. Thread a 10 in. tank tee (sold separately) or another necessary size tee into the pressure tank. Plug one outlet on top of the tank tee with a 1/4 in. plug (sold separately) and install a pressure gauge (sold separately) on the other outlet on top of the tank tee. Thread two 1 in. female PVC adaptors (sold separately) onto the two inlet sides of the tank tee. Thread a 1/2 in. relief valve and a 1/2 in. drain valve (both sold separately) to the front of the tank tee.
   Diagram: Illustration of a pressure tank with a tank tee attached, showing connections for a pressure gauge, 1/4 in. plug, 1 in. female PVC adaptors, 1/2 in. relief valve, and 1/2 in. drain valve.
10. Checking the pressure in the tank
    Air pressure in the tank must be 2 psi lower than the "cut-in" of the pressure switch.
    NOTE: The pump has a 30/50 psi pressure switch, which means the "cut-in" is 30 psi; therefore, the tank needs to be set to 28 psi. To check the pressure in the tank, use a tire pressure gauge (not included). If more air is needed, add air to the tank with a tire pump or air compressor. If less is needed, bleed out some air.
11. Connecting the pump with the water system
    CAUTION: Never install a shut-off valve between the pump and the tank, as this can cause excessive friction loss and can damage the pressure switch and/or pump. If necessary, only install a fully open gate valve (sold separately).
    Using PVC purple primer and PVC cement, attach a section of 1 in. PVC pipe (sold separately) as needed to connect the 1 in. male PVC adaptor on the discharge tee to the 1 in. female PVC adaptor on the tank tee. Attach another section of 1 in. PVC pipe (sold separately) as needed to connect the other 1 in. female PVC adaptor on the tank tee to the water system from the house.
12. Priming the pump and rigid pipe
    ⚠️ WARNING: If the pump's level is lower than the suction pipe, the air may trap in the pipe. The pump may not work properly.
    To prime, remove both:
    a. The two plugs from the top of the two discharge tees (water will be filled in here), and;
    b. The air plug in front of the discharge tee (this is to allow air to vent out while priming). Fill the two discharge tees with water until water overflows.
    NOTE: It may take some time to fully fill the pipes and the pump completely. Keep watching the discharge tee water level and make sure the water level is stable and no air bubbles come out from the discharge tee.
    Wrap the two discharge tee plugs and air plug threads with thread tape and re-attach to the pump. Tighten with a wrench.

Materials Required (Not Included)

• One can PVC cement & primer (read instructions carefully)
• One can thread compound (read instructions carefully)
• Thread tape
• Rigid pipe
• Check valve
• Flexible plastic pipe/clamps
• Elbow
• Nipple
• One well seal with vent plug
• Foot valve
• Priming tee and plug
• Relief valve
• Adaptor
• Tank
• Tank tee

⚠️ WARNING: All joints and connections must be AIRTIGHT. A single leak will prevent the proper operation of the pump. Wrap thread tape clockwise on all threaded connections. For all non-threaded connections, you must use PVC purple primer and PVC cement to ensure airtight seals. Measure all pipe lengths before attaching.

NOTE: The ejector kit from the factory is for shallow well application. For deep well installation, the venturi tube (B) (J32P-18/#11) and nozzle (C) (#02) have to be installed.

Replacing an Existing Pump

⚠️ WARNING: Risk of electric shock. Can shock, burn or kill. Disconnect power to pump before working on pump or motor.

1. Drain and remove the old pump and the ejector in the well. Check pipe for scale, lime, rust, etc., and replace it if necessary.
2. Refer the following instruction to finish the new pump installation.

NOTE: Your old ejector (in the well) can't be properly matched to your new pump. You must use the included ejector to your new pump.

New Deep Well Installation (4” or Larger Well)

1. Removing the pre-assembled nozzle and venturi
   Removing the pre-assembled ejector first then removing the pre-assembled nozzle and venturi.
   For SKU 1001 480 251: Turn the venturi tube (#13) counter clockwise. Remove the venturi tube (#13) and nozzle (#04) with an O-ring from the ejector.
   For SKU 1001 480 255: Turn the venturi tube (#14) counter clockwise. Remove the venturi tube (#14) and nozzle (#04) with an O-ring from the ejector.
   Diagram: Illustration showing the disassembly of an ejector, venturi tube, nozzle, and O-ring.
2. Attaching the nozzle and venturi to the ejector
   Wrap the threads of the venturi tube (B) (J32P-18/#11) with thread tape. Attach the O-ring (D) on the nozzle (C) (#02) and screw the nozzle (C) (#02) into the venturi tube (B) (J32P-18/#11). Attach the venturi tube (B) (J32P-18/#11) with the nozzle (C) and O-ring (D) to the Ejector.
   Diagram: Illustration showing the assembly of the nozzle and venturi tube onto the ejector.
3. Connecting the foot valve to the ejector
   Wrap both ends of a 1-1/4 in. x 3 in. nipple (sold separately) with thread tape (sold separately). Thread the nipple into 1-1/4 in. foot valve (sold separately). Thread the other end of the nipple into the bottom of the ejector. Hand tighten, and then tighten 1-1/2 turn with a pipe wrench.
   Diagram: Illustration showing a 1-1/4 inch foot valve connected to a 1-1/4 inch x 3 inch nipple, which is then attached to the bottom of the ejector.
4. Connecting the rigid pipe to the ejector
   Connect two pipes (1 in. drive, 1-1/4 in suction) to the ejector.
   NOTE: If using PVC pipe to connect, a 1 in. x 3 in. nipple is required.
5. Sliding the pipe assembly into the well
   Before sliding the pipe assembly into the well, firmly clamp the assembly with a pipe clamp (not included) to prevent the assembly from sliding down into the well.
   Keep the 1 in. pipe 2 in. shorter than the 1-1/4 in. pipe.
   Diagram: Illustration showing the pipe assembly being lowered into a well, with the 1-inch pipe being 2 inches shorter than the 1-1/4 inch pipe.
6. Sliding a well seal over the rigid pipe
   Remove the pipe clamp and slide a well seal (sold separately) over the rigid pipes and onto the well casing. The rigid pipe should extend approximately 12 in. from the well seal, depending on the height of the pump.
   NOTE: DO NOT allow the assembly to slide down into the well. Tighten the well seal until rubber gaskets are tight against the well casing and the rigid pipes.
   Diagram: Illustration showing a well seal being placed over pipes entering a well casing, similar to the shallow well installation.
7. Attaching a elbow & tee to the rigid pipes
   Attach a 1 in. elbow and a 1-1/4 in. tee (both facing the pump) to the pipes extending from the well seal. Attach rigid pipes to 1 in. elbow and 1-1/4 in. tee separately.
8. Connecting rigid pipe to the pump body
   Mount the pump as close to the well as possible. Attach two sections of rigid pipes (1 in. drive, 1-1/4 in suction) to the pump body.
   NOTE: If using PVC pipe to connect, a 1 in. x 3 in. nipple is required.
9. Connecting two flexible plastic pipes
   Connect a flexible plastic pipe (1-1/4 in.) to the 1-1/4 in. rigid pipe. Connect a flexible plastic pipe (1 in.) to the 1 in. rigid pipe. Connect the other end of the plastic pipes to the rigid pipes extending from the well seal. Tighten the flexible plastic pipe two ends with clamps. Ensure the pipe slopes slightly toward the well (to prevent air trapping in the pipe).
10. Removing the elbow insert from the pump body
    Pull out the pressure tube from the 90° elbow insert. Unthread and remove the elbow insert from the pump body.
11. Connecting the pressure gauge to the elbow insert hole
    Wrap the threads of the 1/4 in. pressure gauge (included) with thread tape and thread it in the elbow insert hole. Cut off the expanded portion of the pressure tube.
12. Priming the pipe & pump
    Fill the pipe with water until water overflows. Replace the plug back to the tee. Fill the pump with water until water overflows.
    NOTE: It may take several minutes to fill the pipes and the pump completely.
    NOTE: If the pump does not hold its prime, inspect all pipes and connections for leaks, and repair the leaks.
13. Connecting the pressure regulator to the pump
    Wrap thread tape around the threads of a 1 in. pressure regulator (E). Using a pipe wrench, thread the 1 in. pressure regulator (E) into the top of the pump.
    NOTE: This pressure regulator is a normally-closed valve installed at the discharge of the pump to provide an obstruction to flow and thereby regulate the pump pressure and provide back pressure for the ejector. Failure to use this item may result in a loss of prime and/or a low pressure.
14. Connecting the brass elbow to the pressure regulator
    Thread the 1/4 in. disassembled elbow insert into the 1/4 in. hole on the side of the pressure regulator. Slide the pressure tubing (attached with the pump pressure switch or included in regulator kit) over the 1/4 in. brass elbow and the pressure switch connector.
15. Connecting the PVC adaptor to the pressure regulator
    Wrap thread tape around the threads of a 3/4 in. MNPT x 1 in. slip PVC adaptor (sold separately). Thread the adaptor into the pressure regulator.
16. Connecting a tank tee to the pressure tank
    Wrap all threads with thread tape. In order for the pump and the pressure tank (sold separately) to operate properly, the pressure tank needs to be drained of all water BEFORE INSTALLING IT TO THE PUMP. Thread a 10 in. tank tee (sold separately) or another necessary size tee into the pressure tank. Plug one outlet on top of the tank tee with a 1/4 in. plug (sold separately) and install a pressure gauge (sold separately) on the other outlet on top of the tank tee. Thread two 1 in. female PVC adaptors (sold separately) onto the two inlet sides of tank tee. Thread a 1/2 in. relief valve and a 1/2 in. drain valve (both sold separately) to the front of the tank tee.
    Diagram: Illustration of a pressure tank with a tank tee attached, showing connections for a pressure gauge, 1/4 in. plug, 1 in. female PVC adaptors, 1/2 in. relief valve, and 1/2 in. drain valve.
17. Checking the pressure in the tank
    Air pressure in the tank must be 2 psi lower than the "cut-in" of the pressure switch.
    NOTE: The pump has a 30/50 psi pressure switch, which means the "cut-in" is 30 psi; therefore, the tank needs to be set to 28 psi. To check the pressure in the tank, use a tire pressure gauge (not included). If more air is needed, add air to the tank with a tire pump or air compressor. If less is needed, bleed out some air.
18. Connecting the pump with the water system
    CAUTION: Never install a shut-off valve between the pump and the tank, as this can cause excessive friction loss and can damage the pressure switch and/or pump. If necessary, only install a fully open gate valve (sold separately).
    Using PVC purple primer and PVC cement, attach a section of 1 in. PVC pipe (sold separately) as needed to connect the 3/4 in. MNPT x 1 in. slip PVC adaptor in the pressure regulator. Attach another section of 1 in. PVC pipe (sold separately) as needed to connect the other 1 in. female PVC adaptor on the tank tee to the water system from the house.
19. Voltage setting
    ⚠️ WARNING: All electrical work should be performed by a licensed electrician.
    This pump is pre-wired at 230 volts. If the power source is 115 volts, remove the electrical housing cover. Flip the switch to 115 volts. Replace the cover.
    Diagram: Illustration of the electrical housing cover with a switch for selecting between 115V and 230V.
20. Setting pressure regulator
    Turn the regulator adjustment screw down tight. Turn on pump. If the pump is properly primed, a high pressure will immediately show on the pressure gauge. With the pump operating at high pressure, slowly unscrew the adjusting screw until maximum water flow is obtained without pressure dropping to zero. If pressure falls completely, retighten the screw and readjust it. If no pressure shows, stop the pump, remove the pressure regulator from pump, add more water, and try again. After the adjusted bolt is set up, lock the screw nut on the bolt. The pump is ready for use.
    NOTE: The pressure regulator screw is very tight. A big screw driver needed.
    Proceed to the Pressure Switch Assembly Instructions section on page 10 of this manual.

Do

• Remove the drain plug (located on the front of the pump close to the inlet hole) and air plug (located on the top of the pump close to the outlet hole) to vent the system.
• Drain all piping to a point below the freeze line.

NOTE: While this will drain the pump, it will not necessarily drain all the unprotected parts of the piping system. To drain the tank, disconnect the piping at the tank outlet.

Diagram: Illustration showing the pump with locations of the drain plug and air plug indicated.

Do Not

• Do not disassemble the motor housing. This motor has NO repairable internal parts, and disassembly may cause dangerous electrical wiring issues.

Problem: The pump does not start or run.

Problem: The pump does not prime.

Problem: The pump operates but pumps little or no water.

Problem: The pump starts and stops too often.

Problem: The pump does not shut off.