Do-it-Yourself Screen Enclosure
Notes: The following instructions are for Tutorial purposes only. Please check with your local Building Department representatives on how to meet each area's Building Code requirements. Remember Safety First: Follow all instructions that come with your tools!
Framework Members
Framework Members include: 1x2 Framework, 2x3 Framework, 2x2 Framework, 1x2 Framework at wall, 2x2 Angle, Gutter Brace/Strap, Capri Clip, Kick Plate Channel, Door Adapter, 1x1x6" Angle (Gutter Brace/Strap), Roof Pitch, Valance, Gutter, Inter-Locking Pan, 2x3 Post, Castle Clip, Optional Screen Door, Kick Plate, Optional Kick Plate, Kick Plate Coil.
Tools Used for Typical Installation
Miter Saw: Best tool for cutting Aluminum Framework members. Use a plywood blade. Keep oil handy to lubricate the saw blade frequently.
Hack Saw: Can be used to cut Aluminum Framework or trim burrs.
Circular Saw: Alternative for cutting aluminum Framework.
3/8" Drill: Hammer Drill works best for drilling into concrete walls and slabs. It also converts into a regular drill for screwing framework together using Nut Driver Bits.
3/16" Steel Drill Bit: For making holes in 1x2 Framework to attach the 2x3 Beam at the top of the front wall with #10x2 S.M.S.
3/16" masonry Drill Bit: Used for Flange Anchors at Walls and Slab.
1/4" Steel Drill Bit: For making holes in 1x2 Framework to attach the 1x2 to the Wall and Concrete Slab with Flange Anchor.
1/4" Nut Driver Bit: Drill attachment used to screw the #8x9/16 Tek Screw, #10x2 S.M.S. and the #10x3 S.M.S.
4' Level: To keep verticals and horizontals aligned.
Chalk Line Box: Marks lines on slab or walls as guidelines.
Sheet Metal Shears: Trim Optional Kick Plate and Roof Flashing.
Flat & Phillips Head Screwdriver: Needed for optional Screen Door.
5/16" Nut Driver Bit: Drill attachment used to screw the Flange Anchor into Concrete.
Retractable Utility Knife: Trim the fiberglass Screen and Rubber Spline.
Screen Spline Roller: Rolls the Rubber Spline for the screen into the Aluminum Framework.
Caulking Gun: Fill in irregular areas from Framework to Wall and waterproof fasteners on Aluminum Roof. Silicone-based caulking works best.
Roof Members
Roof Members include: Valance, 3" Roof Pan, Gutter.
Four Steps to Outdoor Living
Step 1: Install Header to House
In this example, the Header is fastened to the Fascia of the house. Attaching to the house wall under the overhang is another method.
Apply Caulking along the top of the Header.
The Header length will be determined by the number of Roof Pans (12" wide) needed to cover the width of the room. Add 12" to provide a minimum 6" side overhang on each end.
Pre-drill the header and follow the suggested drill spacings.
Header to Fascia Attachment: Measure height from the bottom of the Header to the Slab and subtract 1/4 inch per foot of the projection measurement of the Slab to get the overall height for the Outer Wall on the width of the Slab. This allows for proper roof drainage. For example, if the slab projection is 10 feet, you have (10) 1/4 inches = 2 1/2 inches. If the distance from the bottom of the Header to the Slab is 84 inches, subtract 2 1/2 from 84, resulting in 81 1/2 inches for the outer wall height.
Header to Masonry (Concrete) Wall attachment: Pre-drill holes in the Header with a 1/4" Steel Drill Bit. Keep hole spacings within 24 inches apart. Apply Caulking to the side going to the Wall before fastening. Use a 5/16" Nut Driver Bit with Drill to install the Flange Anchors.
Header to Wood Fascia or Wood Wall attachment: Pre-drill holes in the Header with a 3/16" Steel Drill Bit. Use a 3/4 inch Washer with each screw. Keep hole spacings within 8 inches apart. Apply Caulking to the side going to the Wall before fastening. Use a 1/4" Nut Driver Bit with Drill to install the S.M.S. (Sheet Metal Screw).
Alternative to #10 x 3 S.M.S. (Header to Wood Fascia or Wood Wall): Pre-drill holes in the Header with a 1/4" Steel Drill Bit. Keep hole spacings within 24 inches apart. Apply Caulking to the side going to the Wall before fastening. Use a 7/16" Socket with Ratchet to install Lag Bolts.
Step 2: Measure Width of Slab and Create Front Wall
Take your Tape Measure and make a mark 2 inches in from the outside of the Slab on all 3 sides. Measure the Width of Slab in inches from your 2 inch mark to the other. Divide that number by 68 inches; this will give you an idea of how many Screen openings there will be. Keep all screen openings within 68 inches wide and equally spaced apart.
Each vertical 2x3 framework Post is 2 inches wide. Mark on the width of the slab (Outer Wall) where each Post goes and size to be equally spaced apart. Remember to keep each outside vertical post 2 inches in from both of the Side Walls and Outer Wall. Measure between Posts' marks; this is the size needed to cut the 1x2 and 2x2 horizontal Framework rails.
The 2x3 Framework beam will be cut 12 inches longer than the distance from the outside left Post to the outside right Post. This allows for 6 inches of overhang on each side of the Outer Posts to hold Roof Pans.
Layout the openings in pencil on the Slab to double-check your calculations. Use Chalk Line Box to make the perimeter of Screen Walls on the Slab from your pencil marks.
Lay all Vertical and Horizontal members out on a flat surface and assemble using the Clips and Angles shown. Move the assembled wall to chalk marks on the Slab and fasten at the bottom. Note: Process may require 2 people.
Framework Assembly Details:
- Gutter Brace/Strap: Use with (2) Tek Screws into 2x3 Beam & (3) Tek Screws into 2x3 Post.
- Capri Clip: Use with (4) #8x9/16" Tek Screws.
- Castle Clip: Use with (4) #8x9/16" Tek Screws.
- 1x2 framework at Slab: Fasten with Flange Anchors.
- Optional 2x2 Framework for chair-rail and kick plate rail.
- 2x3 Framework used as Beam and Post.
- 2x2 Framework used as Chair-rail.
- Maintain 2" Min. Setback from Outer Slab edge.
- 6" maximum spacing between Posts.
- 6" overhang of 2x3 Beam on each end.
- #10x3 SMS Screw 6" spacing from each end & within 24" spacing inside.
- Flange Anchor 6" spacing from each end & within 24" spacing inside. (Note: Some Building Codes Require 2 Anchors per Angle)
- 2x2 Angle
- #10x2 SMS
Step 3: Add 3" Roof Pans, Gutter and Valance
Roof Pan Installation: Slide Roof Pan into Header. Use (3) #8x3/4" Pan Screws in each Roof Pan to the 2x3 Beam and Gutter. Evenly space #8x9/16" Tek Screws approximately 6" apart, fastened to the 3" Pan Roof side.
Gutter Brace/Strap: Second use for Gutter Brace/Strap. Holds the 2x3 Beam to the 2x3 post. Use (2) Tek screws at Beam and (3) Tek screws at Post.
Valance Installation: Fasten Valance with (2) #8x9/16" Tek Screws at Header end and Gutter end.
Important: As you install each Roof Pan, apply Caulking to EACH screw head after Roof Pan is fastened. Also, caulk the inside of the Roof Pan where it slides into the Header.
Drill several holes in the bottom of the Gutter for the Downspout. Follow the Downspout Manufacturer's installation guide.
Insert Roof Pan into Curved Lip edge and rotate down. Slide new Pan into the Header and fasten with Pan screws.
Step 4: Create Side Walls and Install Fiberglass Screen
The Outer Wall and Roof are now installed. Measure from the House Wall to the inside of the Outer Wall at the 2x3 Post. Mark the center of that distance, and measure 18 inches each side of the center mark. This will total 36" (Door Opening). Mark where your 1x2's and 2x2's are on the Slab. Transfer these dimensions up to the Roof Pan above.
Screw Castle Clips to the marks made on the Roof Pan for the Door Posts. Screw up into the Roof Pan and Caulk the screw tips protruding at the Roof Pan Top Side.
Use Tape Measure and get measurement lengths from Slab to Roof of (1x2 at Wall), (2x2 at each side of Door), (1x2 at Outer Wall). Take cut Door Verticals and put them in place. Check Top and Bottom alignment with a Level. Fasten the top of each Door Vertical with a Tek screw into the Castle Clip. Measure the Horizontal 2x2 and 1x2 Framework members from each side of the 2x2 Vertical Door Post. Use a Level to help maintain good measurement marks.
Follow the fastening and Clip component arrangement shown.
This installation step should be put together piece by piece in place, not like Step 2.
Screening the Room:
- Measure each opening that gets screened.
- Lay Screen Roll on the ground and cut each section using a Utility Knife. Allow at least 4" extra when cutting Screen Width and Height to give you the ability to hold and tighten during installation.
- Roll the left vertical side first, from top to bottom.
- Roll the right vertical side second, from top to bottom.
- Roll the top horizontal third, from right to left.
- Roll the bottom horizontal fourth, from right to left.
- Use a utility Knife to trim excess Screen flush with the Framework surface.
Door Opening Details:
- Door Opening must be 36" between vertical 2x2 framework.
- The 36" dimension allows any Pre-Hung Screen Door to be installed into the opening. Follow Door Manufacturer's installation guide.
- Optional Kick Plate: Measure openings for Kick Plate. Cut with Sheet Metal Shears. Slide Kick Plate Channel over all 4 sides and fasten with #8x9/16" Tek screws.
Framework Components for Side Walls:
- 1x2 Fastened to Wall with Flange Anchors
- Capri Clip
- Castle Clip
- 2x2 Angle
- 2x2 Vertical Framework for Door Posts
- 2x2 Chair Rail
- Optional 2x2 Kick Plate Rail
- 1x2 Fastened to 2x3 Outer Wall Post with #10x2 SMS
- 1x2 at House Wall (See Step 1. Attach at Wall using same fastener type as header)
Screen Spline Installation:
- Screen Spline Roller to roll in Flat Spline into Framework grooves.
- Flat Spline: Insert end into Framework groove at a slight angle. (Install Spline according to Manufacturer's instructions).
You're Done! Enjoy!