1. Introduction
This manual provides essential instructions for the safe and effective use of the PETZL NEOX Belay Device and the accompanying Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner. The NEOX is an assisted blocking belay device designed for lead climbing, top-rope climbing, and rappelling, suitable for both gym and outdoor environments. The Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner is a lightweight, compact D-shaped locking carabiner for various climbing applications. Read and understand all instructions before using this equipment.
2. Safety Information
WARNING: Climbing is inherently dangerous. Misuse of this equipment can result in severe injury or death. This product must only be used by competent and responsible persons, or under the direct supervision of a competent person. Users must be trained in the correct techniques for using this equipment. It is your responsibility to understand and follow all instructions and warnings. If you have any doubts, do not use this product.
- Always inspect your equipment before and after each use for any signs of wear, damage, or malfunction.
- Ensure all components are compatible and correctly assembled.
- Use only with ropes within the specified diameter range (8.5 to 11 mm for NEOX).
- Always maintain control of the brake strand. The assisted blocking feature is an aid, not a substitute for proper belay technique.
- Regularly check the locking mechanism of the Sm'D Twist-Lock carabiner to ensure it is fully closed and locked.
- Never modify the equipment.
- Store equipment in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight, chemicals, and extreme temperatures.
3. Components Overview
3.1 PETZL NEOX Belay Device
Figure 1: PETZL NEOX Belay Device. This image shows the overall design of the NEOX, highlighting its orange and black casing, the rope channel, and the cam-assisted blocking mechanism.
The NEOX features a robust body, a rope channel, a cam-assisted blocking mechanism, an integrated wheel for smooth slack payout, and an ergonomic handle for controlled lowering. It is designed for use with single ropes.
3.2 Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner
Figure 2: PETZL Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner. This image displays the D-shaped carabiner with its orange body and red Twist-Lock gate mechanism.
Figure 3: Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner Features. This diagram illustrates the key features of the Sm'D carabiner, including its ergonomic H-shaped cross-section, Keylock system, Twist-Lock mechanism, and keeper hole for accessory attachment.
The Sm'D Twist-Lock carabiner is a D-shaped aluminum carabiner featuring an automatic Twist-Lock gate. Its H-shaped cross-section provides an improved grip and reduces weight. The Keylock system prevents snagging, and a keeper hole allows for connecting accessories like a TIBLOC or MICRO TRAXION with a cord.
4. Setup
4.1 Attaching the NEOX to your Harness
- Ensure your climbing harness is properly fitted and secured.
- Connect the Sm'D Twist-Lock carabiner to the belay loop of your harness. Ensure the carabiner gate is fully closed and the Twist-Lock sleeve is rotated to the locked position.
- Attach the NEOX belay device to the Sm'D carabiner. The orientation of the NEOX should allow for the rope to feed smoothly.
4.2 Loading the Rope into the NEOX
Figure 4: Loading the Rope. This image shows a hand correctly loading the climbing rope into the NEOX device, illustrating the proper rope path for belaying.
- Open the side plate of the NEOX device.
- Insert the rope into the device according to the engraved diagrams on the NEOX. The climber's side of the rope should exit the device towards the climber, and the brake hand side should exit towards the belayer's brake hand.
- Close the side plate, ensuring it clicks securely into place.
- Perform a visual check to confirm the rope is correctly loaded and the device is closed.
5. Operating Instructions
Always maintain a firm grip on the brake strand with your brake hand. The assisted blocking feature is a secondary safety mechanism and does not replace proper belay technique.
5.1 Belaying a Lead Climber
- Giving Slack: To give slack, push the rope through the device with your guide hand while simultaneously pulling slack from the climber's side. The integrated wheel allows for smooth and quick slack payout. Keep your brake hand ready to block the rope.
- Taking Slack: To take slack, pull the brake strand downwards while simultaneously pulling the climber's side of the rope through the device with your guide hand.
- Catching a Fall: When the climber falls, immediately tighten your grip on the brake strand and pull it downwards. The cam-assisted blocking mechanism will engage, helping to arrest the fall. Maintain control of the brake strand until the climber is stable.
5.2 Belaying a Top-Rope Climber
- Taking Slack: Continuously take in slack as the climber ascends, keeping the rope taut. Pull the brake strand downwards while simultaneously pulling the climber's side of the rope through the device.
- Catching a Fall: In the event of a fall, the NEOX will engage its assisted blocking mechanism. Maintain a firm grip on the brake strand.
5.3 Lowering a Climber
- Ensure the climber is ready to be lowered.
- With your brake hand firmly on the brake strand, slowly depress the ergonomic handle. This will disengage the cam and allow the rope to feed through the device.
- Control the rate of descent by varying the pressure on the handle and the position of your brake hand. Release the handle to re-engage the blocking mechanism and stop the descent.
- Lower the climber smoothly and steadily to the ground.
6. Maintenance
6.1 Inspection
- Before each use, inspect the NEOX for cracks, deformation, sharp edges, or excessive wear on the rope channels, cam, and handle. Check that the side plate opens and closes smoothly and securely.
- Inspect the Sm'D carabiner for cracks, deformation, corrosion, or sharp edges. Ensure the gate opens freely and closes automatically, and that the Twist-Lock sleeve rotates smoothly and locks securely.
- If any damage or excessive wear is found, retire the equipment immediately.
6.2 Cleaning and Storage
- Clean the device with fresh water and mild soap if it becomes dirty. Rinse thoroughly and allow to air dry completely away from direct heat.
- Avoid contact with corrosive substances.
- Store the equipment in a cool, dry, dark place, away from chemicals, extreme temperatures, and UV radiation.
7. Troubleshooting
| Problem | Possible Cause | Solution |
|---|---|---|
| Rope not feeding smoothly through NEOX. | Incorrect rope loading; dirty device; rope diameter too large. | Check rope loading direction. Clean the device. Ensure rope diameter is within 8.5-11 mm. |
| Sm'D carabiner gate not locking. | Debris in locking mechanism; damaged gate/sleeve. | Clean the gate and sleeve. If damaged, retire the carabiner. |
| Difficulty lowering climber. | Handle not fully depressed; excessive friction; rope too thick. | Ensure handle is fully depressed. Check rope path for obstructions. Verify rope diameter. |
| NEOX not engaging assisted blocking. | Incorrect rope loading; device worn or damaged. | Immediately stop use. Re-check rope loading. If issue persists, retire the device. |
8. Specifications
- Product Name: PETZL NEOX Belay Device with Sm'D Twist-Lock Carabiner
- Model: NEOX
- Brand: PETZL
- Material: Stainless Steel (NEOX components), Aluminum (Sm'D Carabiner)
- Rope Diameter Compatibility (NEOX): 8.5 to 11 mm single ropes
- Carabiner Locking System: Twist-Lock (automatic)
- Item Package Dimensions: 5.08 x 3.15 x 0.79 inches
- Package Weight: 2.72 ounces
- ASIN: B0CY1J2YPP
- Manufacturer: Petzl
- Date First Available: March 13, 2024
9. Warranty & Support
PETZL products are guaranteed for 3 years against any material or manufacturing defect. Exclusions: normal wear and tear, oxidation, modifications or alterations, incorrect storage, poor maintenance, damage due to accidents or negligence, or use for which this product is not intended. For warranty claims or technical support, please contact your authorized PETZL dealer or visit the official PETZL website for contact information.
