Braemere Models

Introduction and Preparation

CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER

The silicone release agent used in the casting process will react with paint; it must be thoroughly cleaned off before painting.

This is a guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each stage to ensure the model is going together correctly. Any alterations not in the instructions should be carried out with caution.

Glue: Recommended glue is a good quality super glue, such as Gorilla Super Glue. The blue lid Gorilla Super Glue is readily available from most hardware stores. It provides a strong bond; the acrylic around the bond will snap before the bond breaks.

Paint: The instructions will suggest the best point to paint components. A good quality automotive primer or plastic primer followed by automotive acrylic is recommended. Brands such as Hycote or Halfords are generally problem-free and provide a good finish.

Read all instructions before building to avoid unexpected surprises.

Step 1: Cleaning and Preparation

Clean the resin parts (wheels and tyres) in a strong washing-up liquid solution. Remove any flash (excess resin left over from the casting process) from the resin parts.

[Image Description: A bottle of Gorilla Super Glue.]

Remove the plastic backing from all acrylic parts and sand the surface with fine-grit sandpaper (220 grit or less). The laser-cutting process can leave a slight raised edge that inhibits strong adhesion. Sanding these edges improves the glued bond and the plastic surface for paint adhesion. Sharp edges can lead to thin paint application, showing as white edges in the final paint.

Take care when sanding as acrylic is brittle and can easily snap. If a part breaks, align the crack lines and glue it back together. Allow 24 hours for the glue to set firmly before using the part again. This also applies to resin parts.

[Image Description: Prepared plastic parts, including chassis components, laid out on a cutting mat, some showing sanding marks.]

Chassis Assembly

Step 2: Chassis Sides

Glue the chassis sides 1 and 4 back-to-back as pictured. Ensure they are glued on opposite sides.

[Image Description: Two chassis side pieces being glued together back-to-back.]

Step 3: Side Members

Glue the side members 2, 9, 5, 6, 3, and 10 in the order shown. Each piece glues into a slot on the inner chassis 4. Ensure they are glued straight and true in both directions. Piece 2 glues to the front of 9 with a small gap between the hole and the edge at the top of the chassis.

[Image Description: Chassis side pieces with various numbered members (2, 9, 5, 6, 3, 10) being glued into place.]

Step 4: Capping the Chassis

Cap the chassis off by gluing the second set of chassis rails to the other end of the cross members.

[Image Description: The chassis structure with additional rails being added to cap it off.]

Drawbar and Chassis Details

Step 5: Ram Members and Light Clusters

Add the two ram members 7 to the cross member 5, ensuring they are oriented correctly with the pin holes aligned. Add the rear light clusters 11 into the slots on piece 1.

[Image Description: Ram members and rear light clusters being attached to the chassis assembly.]

Step 6: Drawbar Assembly

Build the drawbar by gluing the two pieces numbered 8 back-to-back. Then add the drawbar eye 34 into the slot at the front. The shoe is built from two pieces numbered 35 glued back-to-back, attached to the drawbar approximately 10mm back. The drawbar glues into place on the chassis in the slot at the front and is pinned at the rear.

[Image Description: The drawbar components being assembled and attached to the chassis.]

Step 7: Hose Holder and Springs

The hose holder is built from piece 31 with piece 30 glued to the front. This then glues together by slotting the end of 31 into the hole in piece 2. Finally, glue the printed drawbar springs to the drawbar and chassis as pictured.

[Image Description: The hose holder and drawbar springs being attached to the drawbar and chassis.]

This completes the chassis.

Trailer Body Construction

Step 8: Constructing the Sides

Construct the sides by gluing pieces 12 to 13, ensuring the sides glue opposite each other. Then add the 16mm wide backing sheets and trim as necessary.

[Image Description: The sides of the trailer being constructed by gluing pieces together.]

Step 9: Floor Sheet and Bearers

The floor sheet glues to the floor piece 15 as illustrated. The flared end fits to the rear with hinge slots and follows the bearer profile. Then glue the support triangles 17 to the bearers as pictured. They should be flush with the edges and not glued to the thin front bearer.

[Image Description: The trailer floor piece with support triangles being attached.]

Step 10: Attaching Sides to Floor

Attach the sides to the floor by gluing the sides to the edges of the triangles. Ensure they are glued straight and square. The rear end should be flush, and the front should stick out 2mm.

[Image Description: The trailer sides being attached to the floor assembly.]

Body Details and Mudguards

Step 11: Floor and Side Seam

This is the trickiest step. The pointed thin plastic strip needs slotting into the gap between the floor and side. It may require trimming to fit. The pointed end aligns with the pointed end. It is easier to glue this in place with a solvent cement like Deluxe Plastic Magic or EMA Plastic Weld, but it can be done with other glues.

[Image Description: A thin plastic strip being carefully fitted into the gap between the trailer floor and side.]

Step 12: Mudguards

The mudguards are made up of four parts each. Glue the angle plates 20 behind the rear member of the floor. Then glue the main mudflap 19 to the side. It should sit on the angle of 20, and the top edge should butt up against the side. Finally, glue 21 at an angle at the front and rear of each mudguard.

[Image Description: Mudguard components being assembled and attached to the trailer body.]

Completing the Trailer Body

Step 13: Front Plate

Cap the front of the body off with the front plate 14. It should slot into the front with the sides sitting flush.

[Image Description: The front plate being attached to the trailer body.]

Step 14: Ram Pivots and Chassis Rails

The ram pivots 22 glue into slots in the floor as shown, with the holes pointing to the front of the body. Then add the chassis rails before and after. Piece 16 glues in front, and piece 23 glues behind.

[Image Description: Ram pivots and chassis rails being fitted into the trailer body floor.]

Step 15: Rear Hinges

The rear hinges 18 glue into the slots in the floor 15. (They appear slightly larger than in the picture).

[Image Description: Rear hinges being glued into the trailer floor.]

This completes the body.

Tailgate and Silage Sides

Step 16: Tailgate Construction

The tailgate is built by gluing the main frame 24 to the thin sheet, trimming to size. Then glue the four blocks 26 to the frame as illustrated, protruding 3mm out. Glue the arms 25 to the ends of those blocks.

[Image Description: The tailgate frame being constructed with blocks and arms attached.]

Step 17: Grain Hatch and Rear Arch

Check the fit in the rear body. Also, add the grain hatch. Plate 27 glues centrally on the tailgate, and then the chute 28 fits around the engraved area. If building a grain trailer variant, glue the rear arch 29 onto the top of the tailgate to complete the tail gate.

[Image Description: The rear of the trailer body showing the tailgate, grain hatch, and chute being fitted.]

If building a grain trailer, skip to painting. If building a silage trailer, continue below.

Step 18: Silage Sides and Tailgate Extension

Glue the silage sides 36 and 39 to the 25mm wide thin sheets and trim the sheets as appropriate. Using the excess tailgate thin sheet, glue the tailgate extension 40 to the sheet.

[Image Description: Silage sides being prepared and attached to thin sheets, with a tailgate extension added.]

Step 19: Attaching Tailgate to Sides

Glue the tailgate to the short sides with the tailgate edges glued to the face of the short sides. This can then be glued to the top of the tailgate.

[Image Description: The tailgate being attached to the trailer's short sides.]

Step 20: Silage Sides to Front Arch

Glue the silage sides to the front arch 37. This can then be glued onto the top of the body.

[Image Description: The silage sides being attached to the front arch of the trailer body.]

Painting and Decals

Step 21: Painting the Model

The parts are now ready for paint. Start with a plastic primer, such as Halfords Grey Plastic Primer. This helps the paint bond to acrylic parts and levels the surface. Once the primer is dry, use an automotive paint. This trailer was painted using RAL5017 Blue spray paint, available online or at car body supply shops. For a similar colour, Halfords Monza Electric Blue is a moderate match.

Rims, grain hatch, and ladder have been painted with Hycote Aluminium Effect; any silver paint is suitable. For the front screens, decant some blue paint and use a fine brush to paint around the engraved slots. Lightly sanding around the slots can improve paint adhesion. Do not use a primer on clear sheets as it will show through.

[Image Description: The model trailer parts after priming and painting, showing the blue body and silver details.]

Step 26: Applying Decals

Apply the decals next, as individual parts are easier to handle before final assembly. Cut each sticker from the larger sheet using scissors, cutting close to the text for the best effect. Peel off the backing paper to reveal the clear decal and stick it in place as desired. A small drop of water can aid positioning. Once positioned, push water out from underneath and dry with tissue.

Reflective tape can be cut from the supplied sheets of white and red (2mm length) and applied to the model.

[Image Description: Close-up of the trailer body with 'STEWART' decals applied to the sides and tailgate.]

Final Assembly

Step 27: Mounting Body to Chassis

With decals in place, begin final assembly. Mount the body on the chassis using a piece of thicker wire folded into an L-shape. Thread it through the hinge holes and bend at the other end to lock it in place, taking care not to snap any acrylic.

[Image Description: The trailer body being attached to the chassis using wire hinges.]

Step 28: Mounting Rams

Mount the rams in the body using short lengths of the thicker wire. Locate the ram in position and push a pin through the centre. A drop of glue on the end will secure it. Repeat for the opposite side. Then mount the rams in the chassis, repeating the process with one long rod and bending the ends up.

[Image Description: The hydraulic rams being fitted into the trailer body and chassis.]

Step 29: Fixing the Tailgate

Finally, fix the tailgate to the body. Use thin wire cut and bent to an L-shape with pliers. Feed the longer end of the L through the tailgate and body holes. Gently fold the other end of the wire down to hold it in place and connect the tailgate to the body. Be careful not to apply too much pressure, as this could snap the acrylic or make the hinge too tight, preventing tailgate movement. A gentle bend is ideal. Trim any excess wire with snips.

[Image Description: The tailgate being attached to the trailer body using wire hinges.]

Finishing Touches

Step 30: Ancillary Items and Wheels

Paint and glue any remaining ancillary items such as mudguards and mudflaps. If the mesh silage extension was painted separately, glue it in place. Be cautious when gluing painted parts, as superglue can fog surrounding paint. A clear glue like UHU or Deluxe Materials Glue 'n' Glaze is better for this.

Glue the clear panel into the front window; avoid super glue as it will fog the clear glazing. Paint this with a fine brush, building up layers on alternate lines.

Finally, push the 2mm steel axle into one of the rims, thread the axle through the chassis holes, and push the other rim on to secure. Use the black straw to make spacers if necessary, and a drop of glue will help keep the rims on the axle. Check that the tyre tread is running the correct way!

The model is now complete and ready for harvest. Sit back and admire your creation. Great work!

[Image Description: The fully assembled 1:32 scale Stewart GX 16-21 S Grain/Silage Trailer model, shown from multiple angles.]