CRAFTSMAN Dustless Plate Joiner Owner's Manual

Typical Applications

An illustration shows the 175010 Plate Joiner being used to create various types of wood joints: edge-to-edge joints, butt joints, miter joints, and T-joints, demonstrating how biscuits are inserted into slots for strong connections.

Introduction

Spline joinery is a strong woodworking method. When glue is properly applied to a spline and the joint area, a large surface area receives adhesion properties, forming a very strong joint.

Traditional spline joinery involves cutting slots with a router or table saw, then cutting thin wood strips to fit as splines.

Newer methods use a plate or biscuit joiner to cut precise mating oval slots in adjoining boards. This plate joiner is a fast, simple, and accurate plunge cutting tool for hard wood, soft wood, plywood, particle board, and other pressed woods.

Football-shaped wafers, called biscuits, are placed inside the slots with glue to help align adjoining surfaces. Water-based glues cause biscuits to swell, creating an extremely strong and firm bond. Examples include white glue, yellow glue, carpenter's glue, hide glue, and aliphatic resin glue.

This bonding technique has traditionally been limited to edge-to-edge joints. With this plate joiner, biscuits can now be easily used to connect butt, miter, and T-joints. Biscuit joining can be as strong as mortise and tenon, tongue and groove, standard spline, and doweled joints. In most cases, the material around the biscuit will break before the biscuit itself breaks. A greater surface area exposed to glue in a biscuit joint makes seams stronger.

Full One Year Warranty on Craftsman Plate Joiner

If this Craftsman Plate Joiner fails to perform properly due to a defect in material or workmanship within one year from the date of purchase, return it to (or contact) the nearest Sears Service Center/Department in the United States, and Sears will repair it, free of charge.

For commercial or rental purposes, this warranty applies for only 90 days from the date of purchase.

This warranty gives you specific legal rights, which may vary by state.

SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO. DEPT. 817 WA HOFFMAN ESTATES, IL 60179

Rules for Safe Operation

Read All Instructions

1. KNOW YOUR POWER TOOL: Read owner's manual carefully. Learn its applications and limitations as well as specific potential hazards.
2. GUARD AGAINST ELECTRICAL SHOCK: Prevent body contact with grounded surfaces (e.g., pipes, radiators, ranges, refrigerator enclosures).
3. KEEP WORK AREA CLEAN: Cluttered areas and benches invite accidents.
4. AVOID DANGEROUS ENVIRONMENT: Don't use power tools in damp or wet locations or expose to rain. Keep work area well lit.
5. KEEP CHILDREN AND VISITORS AWAY: All visitors should wear safety glasses and be kept a safe distance from work area. Do not let visitors contact tool or extension cord.
6. STORE IDLE TOOLS: When not in use, tools should be stored in a dry, high or locked-up place out of the reach of children.
7. DON'T FORCE TOOL: It will do the job better and safer at the rate for which it was designed.
8. USE RIGHT TOOL: Don't force small tool or attachment to do the job of a heavy duty tool. Don't use tool for purposes not intended (e.g., don't use a circular saw for cutting tree limbs or logs).
9. DRESS PROPERLY: Do not wear loose clothing or jewelry. They can be caught in moving parts. Rubber gloves and non-skid footwear are recommended when working outdoors. Wear protective hair covering to contain long hair and keep it from being drawn into air vents.
10. ALWAYS WEAR SAFETY GLASSES WITH SIDE SHIELDS: Everyday eyeglasses are NOT safety glasses.
11. PROTECT YOUR LUNGS: Wear a face or dust mask if operation is dusty.
12. PROTECT YOUR HEARING: Wear hearing protection during extended periods of operation.
13. DON'T ABUSE CORD: Never carry tool by cord or yank it to disconnect from receptacle. Keep cord from heat, oil, and sharp edges.
14. SECURE WORK: Use clamps or a vise to hold work. It's safer than using your hand and it frees both hands to operate tool.
15. DON'T OVERREACH: Keep proper footing and balance at all times. Do not use on a ladder or unstable support.
16. MAINTAIN TOOLS WITH CARE: Keep tools sharp at all times, and clean for best and safest performance. Follow instructions for lubricating and changing accessories.
17. DISCONNECT TOOLS: When not in use, before servicing, or when changing attachments, blades, bits, cutters, etc., all tools should be disconnected.
18. REMOVE ADJUSTING KEYS AND WRENCHES: Form habit of checking to see that keys and adjusting wrenches are removed from tool before turning it on.
19. AVOID ACCIDENTAL STARTING: Don't carry plugged-in tool with finger on switch. Be sure switch is off when plugging in.
20. MAKE SURE YOUR EXTENSION CORD IS IN GOOD CONDITION: Use a heavy enough cord to carry the current your product will draw. An undersized cord will cause a drop in line voltage resulting in loss of power and overheating. A wire gage size (A.W.G.) of at least 16 is recommended for an extension cord 100 feet or less in length. A cord exceeding 100 feet is not recommended. If in doubt, use the next heavier gage. The smaller the gage number, the heavier the cord.
21. OUTDOOR USE EXTENSION CORDS: When tool is used outdoors, use only extension cords intended for use outdoors. Outdoor approved cords are marked with the suffix W-A, for example - SJTW-A or SJOW-A.
22. KEEP BLADES CLEAN AND SHARP: Sharp blades minimize stalling and kickback.
23. KEEP HANDS AWAY FROM CUTTING AREA: Keep hands away from blades. Do not reach underneath work while blade is rotating. WARNING: BLADES COAST AFTER TURN OFF.
24. NEVER USE IN AN EXPLOSIVE ATMOSPHERE: Normal sparking of the motor could ignite flammable liquids, gases, or fumes.
25. INSPECT TOOL CORDS PERIODICALLY: If damaged, have repaired by an authorized service facility. Stay constantly aware of cord location and keep it well away from the rotating blade.
26. INSPECT EXTENSION CORDS PERIODICALLY: and replace if damaged.
27. KEEP HANDLES DRY, CLEAN, AND FREE FROM OIL AND GREASE: Always use a clean cloth when cleaning. Never use brake fluids, gasoline, petroleum-based products, or any strong solvents to clean your tool.
28. STAY ALERT AND EXERCISE CONTROL: Watch what you are doing and use common sense. Do not operate tool when you are tired. Do not rush.
29. CHECK DAMAGED PARTS: Before further use of the tool, a guard or other part that is damaged should be carefully checked to determine that it will operate properly and perform its intended function. Check for alignment of moving parts, binding of moving parts, breakage of parts, mounting, and any other conditions that may affect its operation. A guard or other part that is damaged should be properly repaired or replaced by an authorized service center.
30. DO NOT USE TOOL IF SWITCH DOES NOT TURN IT ON AND OFF: Have defective switches replaced by an authorized service center.
31. DO NOT OPERATE THIS TOOL WHILE UNDER THE INFLUENCE OF DRUGS, ALCOHOL, OR ANY MEDICATION.
32. GUARD AGAINST KICKBACK: Kickback occurs when the blade stalls rapidly and the plate joiner is driven in the direction opposite blade rotation. Release switch immediately if blade binds or joiner stalls.
33. USE ONLY 4 INCH DIAMETER SPECIFIED BLADES: Do not use blades with incorrect size holes. Never use blade washers or bolts that are defective, incorrect, or not specified.
34. AVOID CUTTING NAILS: Inspect for and remove all nails from lumber before cutting.
35. NEVER touch the blade or other moving parts during use.
36. NEVER start a tool when the blade is in contact with the workpiece.
37. NEVER lay a tool down before the blade has come to a complete stop.
38. POLARIZED PLUGS: To reduce the risk of electric shock, this equipment has a polarized plug (one blade is wider than the other). This plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not change the plug in any way.
39. When servicing use only identical Craftsman replacement parts.
40. SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS: Refer to them frequently and use them to instruct others who may use this tool. If you loan someone this tool, loan them these instructions also.

Features

The Plate Joiner is designed for making fast, accurate, and simple plunge cuts in wood, etc., so that biscuits can be used to join two or more boards together. It provides years of trouble-free performance and allows for beautiful and precise work.

Double Insulated

This tool is double insulated, eliminating the need for a three-wire grounded power cord. Two complete sets of insulation protect the user from electric current. All exposed metal parts are isolated from internal metal motor components with protecting insulation.

Switch

To turn your plate joiner "ON", depress the switch trigger. Release switch trigger to turn your plate joiner "OFF".

5/8 Horsepower Motor

The plate joiner has a powerful 5/8 horsepower motor with sufficient power to handle tough cutting jobs. It develops a no load speed of 10,000 RPM.

Carbide Tipped Blade

The plate joiner has an 8 tooth carbide tipped blade for cutting biscuit slots.

Biscuits

An illustration shows the three standard biscuit sizes: #0 (5/8 in. x 1-13/16 in.), #10 (13/16 in. x 2-1/16 in.), and #20 (15/16 in. x 2-5/16 in.).

• #0 (5/8 in. x 1-13/16 in.)
• #10 (13/16 in. x 2-1/16 in.)
• #20 (15/16 in. x 2-5/16 in.)

Adjustable Fence / Front Handle

The plate joiner has an adjustable fence. By loosening the height adjustment knobs, the fence angle can be set at angles up to 60° above and 45° below 90°, with positive stop settings in increments of 15°. The height of the fence can be set between 0 in. - 2 in. with a scale showing 0 in. - 1-1/2 in. The front handle is a molded part of the adjustable fence and should always be used to guide and balance your plate joiner, providing ease of operation and maintaining safe control.

Non-Skid Backing Pad

The fence on your plate joiner is padded with a non-skid backing pad to hold it stationary against the workpiece. It helps prevent skidding when making cuts and prevents marring of the workpiece.

Applications

Used for cutting precise mating oval slots in hard wood, soft wood, plywood, particle board, etc. for spline joinery applications.

Electrical Connection

The plate joiner has a precision built electric motor. It should be connected to a power supply that is 120 volts, 60 Hz, AC only (normal household current). Do not operate this tool on direct current (DC). A voltage drop of more than 10 percent will cause a loss of power and overheating. If your plate joiner does not operate when plugged into an outlet, double-check the power supply.

Depth Adjustment Knobs

A spring loaded depth adjustment knob makes it possible to make proper settings for three standard size biscuits. Fine adjustments to the cutting depth can be made with two knurled adjustment knobs located behind the depth adjustment knob. Once the correct depth setting has been made for one biscuit size, the other two depth settings will be automatically set.

Dustless Feature

The dust box on the rear of your plate joiner provides a dust collection system. Wood particles are drawn up through a tunnel in the base and collect in the dust box during cutting operations.

Highlighted Indicator Marks

Highlighted centerline and line of cut indicator marks have been provided on your plate joiner.

Know Your Plate Joiner

Your plate joiner is shipped completely assembled and ready for use. Inspect it carefully for breakage or damage during shipping. If any parts are damaged or missing, contact your local Sears store or Sears authorized service center to obtain replacement parts before attempting to operate. The dust box is installed on the rear of tool and helps keep the work area clean. Empty the dust box often for efficient pick-up of wood particles. Familiarize yourself with all operating features and safety requirements before use.

An exploded view illustration labels key components of the Craftsman Plate Joiner, including the switch trigger, rear handle, centerline/line of cut indicator mark(s), screen material, dust box, rear base assembly, height setting scale, front base assembly, angle setting scale, height indicator mark, front handle/adjustable fence, non-skid backing pad, height adjustment knob(s), and angle adjustment lock plate(s).

Adjustments

Depth of Cut Adjustments

Your plate joiner can be adjusted to three standard cutting depths for #0, #10, and #20 biscuits. Adjustments are made by engaging slots on the depth adjustment knob with tabs on the rear base assembly. For example, for a #0 biscuit, rotate the depth adjustment knob to the slot marked 0. For a #10 biscuit, rotate to 10, and for a #20 biscuit, rotate to 20.

To Set Depth Adjustment Knob

1. Unplug your plate joiner.

2. Pull knurled adjustment knobs in the direction of the arrow shown in figure 3 (towards the front of the tool). These knobs are spring loaded, so pulling them releases pressure from the depth adjustment knob.
3. Rotate depth adjustment knob until desired slot setting aligns with tabs on rear base assembly - 0, 10, or 20.
4. Release knurled adjustment knobs, applying pressure from the spring on depth adjustment knob.

An illustration shows the depth adjustment knob mechanism, indicating how to pull and hold the knurled adjustment knobs to rotate the depth adjustment knob to desired settings (0, 10, or 20) by aligning with tabs on the rear base assembly.

Make a test cut in a scrap piece of wood. Fit the correct size biscuit into biscuit slot. If the slot is too deep or too shallow, fine adjustments can be made by loosening the rear adjustment knob and making fine adjustments with the front adjustment knob. Turning the front knob forward will cut shallow biscuit slots; turning it backward will cut deeper slots. The biscuit slot should be deep enough to allow slightly more than one-half of the biscuit into the slot for proper alignment of the wood being joined.

To Make Fine Adjustments

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. Loosen rear knurled adjustment knob. This knob is used as a lock nut or jam nut only. Loosen by twisting it in the opposite direction away from the front knob.
3. Turn front knurled adjustment knob forward for a more shallow cut, or backward for a deeper cut.
4. Once desired depth of cut is reached, hold front knob so that it will not move out of adjustment. Next, tighten rear knob against front knob.
5. Recheck depth setting by making a test cut in a scrap piece of wood. Periodically check depth setting for accuracy.

An illustration details the knurled adjustment knobs for fine adjustments, showing how turning forward creates shallower biscuit slots and turning backward creates deeper slots.

Fence Height Adjustment

The adjustable fence can be moved up and down to adjust the blade's position relative to the workpiece top. A scale on both sides indicates the fence height from the blade's center. The fence can be positioned up to two inches from the blade's center, but the scale and indicator point only show up to 1-1/2 inches. Scale marks are in 1/16 inch increments.

To Adjust Height Setting

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. Loosen the two height adjustment knobs (approximately one turn each).
3. Slide the fence up or down until the indicator point is aligned with the desired dimension on the scale.
4. Tighten height adjustment knobs securely.

An illustration shows the front handle/adjustable fence, indicating how to loosen height adjustment knobs to lower or raise the adjustable fence, with the angle setting scale and height setting scale visible.

Fence Angle Adjustment

The adjustable fence can be set at angles ranging from 60° above 90° to 45° below 90°, with quick, accurate positive stops set in 15° increments. A scale on both sides of the front handle identifies these positive stop angles. Each click heard when rotating the adjustable fence equals a 15° positive stop angle change.

To Adjust Angle Setting

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. Loosen the two height adjustment knobs (approximately one turn each).
3. Rotate adjustable fence up or down to the desired angle.
4. Tighten height adjustment knobs securely.

An illustration shows how to rotate the adjustable fence to the desired angle by loosening and tightening the height adjustment knobs.

Operation

A variety of spline joints can be made using your plate joiner. The number and size of biscuits needed depend on wood thickness and joint length. Small #0 biscuits are for miter cuts in 3/4 in. materials; larger biscuits are for edge-to-edge joinery.

For 1-1/2 in. thick materials, stack two biscuits. For even thicker materials, use additional stacked biscuits.

For tabletops, workbenches, cutting boards, etc., more biscuits result in stronger joints.

How to Make Edge-to-Edge Joints

Edge-to-edge joinery is one of the most basic and easiest joints. Two main adjustments are depth of cut and location of cut.

An illustration shows a top view of the plate joiner, highlighting the centerline mark(s) and line of cut window for precise alignment. Another illustration demonstrates edge-to-edge joints, showing how biscuits are inserted into biscuit slots to connect two wood pieces, with centerline marks visible.

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. Prepare workpieces by laying them side by side on a workbench in assembly order.
3. Using a square, mark the center of each joint by drawing a line across each workpiece. Mark edges 2 in. from ends. Multiple close biscuits make stronger joints.
4. Loosen height adjustment knobs and set fence angle at 90°.
5. Slide fence up or down until indicator point aligns with desired dimension on scale. Remember: scale indicates fence height from blade center.
6. Tighten height adjustment knobs securely.
7. Select correct depth of cut setting for biscuit size. Make a test cut in scrap wood.
8. Clamp workpiece securely.
9. Plug in plate joiner. Grasp with both hands by front and rear handles.
10. Place fence against board, align indicator marks with centerline mark(s) on board.
11. Depress switch trigger to turn on, push forward to extend blade into wood.
12. When base assembly bottoms out against depth of cut adjustment knob setting, pull back to retract blade.
13. Repeat for all desired biscuit slots.
14. Once slots are cut, place a biscuit in each joint and dry assemble workpieces to check fit.
15. Disassemble, apply a bead of glue in each slot and over entire joint surface. Reinsert biscuits and reassemble.
16. Clamp workpieces until glue sets.

Butt Joints

A butt joint, mating end grain of one board with edge grain of another, is typically weak. Biscuits create a strong mortise-and-tenon effect.

An illustration depicts butt joints, showing how multiple stacked biscuits are used to join two wood pieces, with biscuit slots and centerline marks visible.

How to Make Butt Joints

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. Place wood pieces on a level workbench, aligned for assembly.
3. Using a square, mark centerlines for each biscuit joint across edges.
4. Loosen height adjustment knobs and set fence angle at 90°.
5. Slide fence up or down until indicator point aligns with desired dimension on scale.
6. Tighten height adjustment knobs securely.
7. Select correct depth of cut setting for biscuit size. Make a test cut in scrap wood.
8. Clamp workpiece securely.
9. Plug in plate joiner. Grasp with both hands by front and rear handles.
10. Place fence against board, align indicator marks with centerline mark(s) on board.
11. Depress switch trigger to turn on, push forward to extend blade into wood.
12. When base assembly bottoms out against depth of cut adjustment knob setting, pull back to retract blade.
13. Repeat for mating workpiece.
14. Once slots are cut, place a biscuit in each joint and dry assemble workpieces to check fit.
15. Disassemble, apply a bead of glue in each slot and over entire joint surface. Reinsert biscuits and reassemble.
16. Clamp workpieces until glue sets.

Offset Butt Joints

Rails of tables or workbenches are often offset from table legs. When offsets are required, cut slots in rails first, then re-adjust fence to cut slots in legs.

An illustration shows an offset butt joint, detailing how a biscuit is inserted into a biscuit slot to join two wood pieces, with centerline marks visible.

Procedure for cutting offset butt joints is identical to butt joints, with the exception of fence adjustment. For a 1/4 in. offset, mark centerlines, cut rail slots, then raise fence 1/4 in. and cut leg slots.

T-Joints

A T-joint connects the end of one board to the face of another, typical for shelves or support braces. Cutting a T-joint is simple, but accurate marking of centerlines and intersection points is critical.

An illustration shows a T-joint, with a biscuit inserted into a biscuit slot to connect the end of one board to the face of another, highlighting centerline marks. Another illustration shows horizontal and vertical boards set up for T-joint cutting, indicating board centerlines and biscuit slot centerline marks. A third illustration shows the plate joiner clamped to a horizontal board, demonstrating how to cut end slots in horizontal boards for T-joints.

How to Make T-Joints

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. Place wood pieces on a level workbench, with the inside face of the vertical board facing up.
3. Mark centerlines on each board; they must align. Measure carefully. Spacing of biscuit slots side-to-side must also match.
4. Plug in plate joiner and cut slots in all boards requiring end slots. Follow "Edge-To-Edge Joints" procedures: set fence angle at 90°, fence height at desired dimension, select correct depth of cut, clamp workpiece, and cut at marked centerline intersection.
5. Remove adjustable fence from plate joiner to cut slots into the face of the vertical board.

To Remove Adjustable Fence:

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. Loosen and remove height adjusting knobs, square head bolts, angle adjustment lock plates, and adjustable fence.
3. Place plate joiner on vertical board, align indicator marks on base assembly with centerline.
4. Place a straight piece of wood on the vertical board and clamp it flush against the base assembly. This piece acts as a fence/guide and must be square with vertical board sides and parallel with centerline.
5. Align centerline on bottom of base assembly with marked intersection for biscuit slot.
6. Plug in plate joiner.
7. Depress switch trigger to turn on, push down to extend blade into wood.
8. When base assembly bottoms out against depth of cut adjustment knob setting, pull back to retract blade.
9. Repeat for all required slots in vertical boards.
10. Once slots are cut, place a biscuit in each joint and dry assemble workpieces to check fit.
11. Disassemble, apply a bead of glue in each slot and over entire joint surface. Reinsert biscuits and reassemble.
12. Clamp workpieces until glue sets.

An illustration shows the adjustable fence assembly, highlighting the adjustable fence, angle adjustment plate(s), height adjustment knob(s), square head bolt(s), angle adjustment lock plate(s), and grooves on the bottom side of the base assembly. Another illustration shows the plate joiner positioned to cut slots in vertical boards for T-joints, with the vertical board clamped and the horizontal board acting as a guide.

After T-joint cutting, reassemble adjustable fence by reversing "TO REMOVE ADJUSTABLE FENCE" procedure. Align angle adjustment lock plates with mating angle adjustment plates (located in groove on each side of plate joiner). Secure with square bolts and height adjusting knobs.

Miter Joints

Two types: flat miters (for picture frames) and edge miters (for boxes, avoiding end grain show).

An illustration shows flat miter joints, with a biscuit inserted into a biscuit slot to join two mitered wood pieces, highlighting centerline marks.

How to Make Flat Miter Joints

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. Place wood pieces on a level workbench.
3. Using a combination square, draw a line through the center of each joint perpendicular to mitered edges.
4. Set fence angle at 90°, fence height at desired dimension, select correct depth of cut, and clamp workpiece securely.
5. Align indicator mark on fence with centerline on workpiece.
6. Plug in plate joiner.
7. Depress switch trigger to turn on, push forward to extend blade into wood.
8. When base assembly bottoms out against depth of cut adjustment knob setting, pull back to retract blade.
9. Repeat for mating slot and all required miter joint slots.
10. Once slots are cut, place a biscuit in each joint and dry assemble workpieces to check fit.
11. Disassemble, apply a bead of glue in each slot and over entire joint surface. Reinsert biscuits and reassemble.
12. Clamp workpieces until glue sets.

How to Make Edge Miter Joints

An illustration shows edge miter joints, with a biscuit inserted into a biscuit slot to join two mitered wood pieces, highlighting centerline marks. Another illustration shows the plate joiner cutting an edge miter slot from the long side of a workpiece. A third illustration shows the plate joiner cutting an edge miter slot from the short side of a workpiece.

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. Place wood pieces on a level workbench.
3. Mark centerline of the joint on each board.
4. For workpieces with different thicknesses, clamp securely to a workbench with long sides up to ensure outside surfaces match.
5. Loosen height adjusting knobs and set fence angle at 45°.
6. Slide fence up or down until fence height is at desired setting.
7. Tighten height adjustment knobs securely.
8. Place plate joiner on workpiece with adjustable fence resting on long side, base or vertical fence against mitered edge.
9. Recheck fence height setting to ensure it will not cut through workpiece.
10. Align indicator mark on fence with centerline on workpiece. Ensure base or vertical fence is pressed flat against mitered edge.
11. Plug in plate joiner.
12. Depress switch trigger to turn on, push forward to extend blade into wood.
13. When base assembly bottoms out against depth of cut adjustment knob setting, pull back to retract blade.
14. Repeat for mating slot and all required miter joint slots.
15. Once slots are cut, place a biscuit in each joint and dry assemble workpieces to check fit.
16. Disassemble, apply a bead of glue in each slot and over entire joint surface. Reinsert biscuits and reassemble.
17. Clamp workpieces until glue sets.

If workpieces are same thickness, clamp securely to workbench with short sides up. Set adjustable fence angle at 45° above 90° setting. Place plate joiner on workpiece with adjustable fence resting on short side, base or vertical fence against mitered edge. Follow steps 9-17 above. Before cutting, ensure blade will not cut through workpiece and both fences are pressed flat against mitered edge and face.

Auxiliary Fence

For workpieces less than 1-1/2 in. wide, an auxiliary fence must be made and mounted to the bottom of the adjustable fence. This provides a positive stop for height setting. The auxiliary fence thickness will affect the vertical fence scale accuracy; adjust height settings accordingly.

An illustration shows the dimensions and notch for constructing an auxiliary fence: 3-5/8 in. x 5-1/4 in. with 7/8 in. side margins and a 1-9/16 in. x 3-1/2 in. notch. Another illustration shows the auxiliary fence attached to the adjustable fence using screws, washers, and hex nuts.

How to Make Auxiliary Fence

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. Cut a thin piece of wood 3-5/8 in. x 5-1/4 in. The thickness will make the vertical fence scale inaccurate; adjust height settings for auxiliary fence thickness.
3. Cut a notch for viewing indicator mark and centerline markings.
4. Place auxiliary fence against bottom of adjustable fence.
5. Using screw holes in adjustable fence as a pattern, mark screw hole locations on auxiliary fence.
6. Drill 3/16 in. screw holes in auxiliary fence. Countersink holes on bottom so screwheads are flush or below surface.
7. Secure auxiliary fence to adjustable fence with 3/16 in. x 3/4 in. flat head machine screws, washers, and hex nuts.
8. Tighten screws securely, ensuring screw heads are flush or subflush with bottom surface.

Dustless Feature

The dust box located on the rear of your plate joiner provides a dust collection system. Wood particles are drawn up through a tunnel in the base and collect in the dust box during cutting operations. For more efficient operation, empty dust box when half full.

An illustration shows the dust box with tabs, screen material, and an arrow indicating how to remove the dust box.

To Remove Dust Box for Emptying

1. Unplug your plate joiner.
2. To release dust box, depress tabs located on each side.
3. Slide dust box to the rear and remove.
4. DO NOT press on the screen material with your hand or fingers. Screen material can be damaged. Screen material is located on the sides and rear of dust box.
5. DO NOT break tabs that secure dust box to plate joiner.
6. Empty dust box.

Maintenance

Cleaning Base Assembly / Dust Box Tunnel

After extended use, wood particles and resin may build up inside the base assembly of your plate joiner and clog the dust box tunnel, reducing dust collection efficiency and making cutting biscuit slots more difficult.

An illustration shows the plate joiner without the dust box, highlighting the screwdriver points for removing the front base assembly and the direction to pull the adjustable fence. Another illustration shows the blade, bearing plate with tabs, adjustment rod, and springs, indicating how to release springs and remove the rear base assembly. A third illustration shows the front base assembly slots and rear base assembly slots, indicating areas to clean.

How to Clean Base Assembly

1. Unplug your plate joiner.

2. Remove dust box by depressing tabs on each side and sliding it to the rear.
3. Place plate joiner upside down on a workbench.
4. Remove two screws securing front base assembly.
5. Pull adjustable fence in direction shown and remove front base assembly.
6. Using needle nose pliers, stretch and release springs from tabs on bearing plate.
7. Push adjustment rod away from bearing plate and remove rear base assembly.
8. With front and rear base assemblies removed, place plate joiner upside down on a workbench and clean wood particles and resin from blade, bearing plate and surrounding areas.

9. Clean wood particles and resin from slots and surrounding areas on front and rear base assemblies. Apply a thin coat of general purpose grease in slots or on bearing plate where base slides.
10. Replace rear base assembly. Position adjustment rod in its proper place.
11. Secure rear base assembly with two springs. Hook one end of each spring in notch on each side of base assembly. Use needle nose pliers to stretch each spring and hook it over tabs on bearing plate.
12. Reassemble front base assembly.
13. Replace screws and tighten securely.
14. Remove screwdriver.

Blade Replacement

The blade may become dull or break carbide tips if it hits a nail or blunt object, requiring replacement.

An illustration shows the plate joiner without the dust box, highlighting the screwdriver points for removing the front base assembly and the direction to pull the adjustable fence for blade replacement. Another illustration shows the blade, bearing plate with tabs, adjustment rod, and springs, indicating how to release springs and remove the rear base assembly for blade replacement. A third illustration shows the blade, carbide tipped cutting tooth, non-cutting tooth, and bearing plate, indicating where to place a screwdriver or pin to lock the blade for removal. A fourth illustration shows the gear spindle, inner blade washer, blade, outer blade washer, and blade screw, indicating the direction to remove and tighten the blade screw.

How to Replace the Blade

1. Unplug your plate joiner.

2. Remove dust box by depressing tabs and sliding it to the rear.
3. Place plate joiner upside down on a workbench.
4. Remove two screws securing front base assembly.
5. Pull adjustable fence in direction shown and remove front base assembly.
6. Using needle nose pliers, stretch and release springs from tabs on bearing plate.
7. Push adjustment rod away from bearing plate and remove rear base assembly.
8. With base assemblies removed, place plate joiner upside down on a workbench.
9. Place a #2 Phillips screwdriver or 1/4 in. diameter pin in one of the two holes provided in bearing plate.
10. Place one of the non-cutting teeth behind each carbide tipped cutting tooth against the screwdriver or pin and lock blade, preventing it from rotating. DO NOT lock blade against one of the cutting teeth; carbide tips will break.
11. Using a 3/16 in. hex key, remove blade screw (turn counterclockwise).
12. Remove outer blade washer and blade.
13. Clean wood particles and resin from blade washer, dust box area, base assembly slots, and all surrounding parts.

14. Place inner blade washer on gear spindle.
15. Place new blade onto shoulder of blade washer and secure with outer blade washer and blade screw. Note: Blade screw fits into cupped side of outer blade washer.

16. Tighten blade screw securely (turn clockwise).
17. Replace rear base assembly. Position adjustment rod in its proper place.
18. Secure rear base assembly with two springs. Hook one end of each spring in notch on each side of base assembly. Use needle nose pliers to stretch each spring and hook it over tabs on bearing plate.
19. Reassemble front base assembly.
20. Replace screws and tighten securely.
21. Remove screwdriver.

General Maintenance Notes

Only parts shown on parts list (page 23) are customer-serviceable. All other parts are part of the double insulation system and should be serviced only by a qualified Sears service technician. Avoid using solvents when cleaning plastic parts as most plastics are susceptible to damage. Use clean cloths to remove dirt, dust, oil, grease, etc.

When electric tools are used on fiberglass, they are subject to accelerated wear and premature failure due to abrasive fiberglass chips. It is not recommended for extended work on fiberglass material. During any use on fiberglass, clean the tool frequently by blowing with an air jet.

Lubrication

All bearings in this tool are lubricated with sufficient high-grade lubricant for the unit's life under normal operating conditions. No further lubrication is required.

Accessories

The following recommended accessories were current and available at the time this manual was printed:

• Item No. 9-25424: #0 Biscuits (5/8 in. x 1-13/16 in.) - Package of 50
• Item No. 9-25425: #10 Biscuits (13/16 in. x 2-1/16 in.) - Package of 50
• Item No. 9-25426: #20 Biscuits (15/16 in. x 2-5/16 in.) - Package of 50

Troubleshooting

Exploded View and Parts List

An exploded view diagram of the Craftsman Plate Joiner Model No. 315.175010 is provided, illustrating its various components. A corresponding parts list details each component by key number, part number, description, and quantity. For replacement parts, contact your nearest Sears Repair Center.