Samsung Air Source Heat Pump Installation and Maintenance Manual

The Outdoor Unit (Boiler)

Deciding on Where to Install the Outdoor Units

Choose a location where the noise of the Air to Water Heat Pump when running and the discharged air do not disturb any neighbours. Install the outdoor unit on a flat, stable surface with plenty of drainage, gravel or grass is ideal; make sure the base can support its weight. Position the outdoor unit so that the air flows into an open area, where there are no plants and animals.

If you can see the sea from the position of the outdoor unit, you need to apply Blygold, Bronze glow or equivalent anti-corrosion coating on the whole unit.

The unit will not benefit from being mounted on the North or South of the building; any aspect is fine. You should avoid very exposed positions to avoid wind blowing into the back or front of the unit.

The unit needs to be securely mounted at least 100mm off the ground on rubber feet. The unit must be bolted down for security using 10mm bolts and Zebedee bolts. If wall brackets are used, we recommend 600mm unistrut cantilever arms are used. Caution should be applied when wall mounting because any vibration from the unit can be transmitted into the wall creating noise.

The unit must have adequate drainage away from the unit; it can produce up to 6 L / hour. There is a drainage kit included which is not recommended; it is best to let the unit drain into the ground. If a drip tray is used, it must be 25mm longer and wider than the base of the unit to catch all the drips.

Dimensions:

• Size 16: 1420mm (height) x 940mm (width) x 330mm (depth) - 103kg
• Size 9: 998mm (height) x 940mm (width) x 330mm (depth) - 75kg

Space around the unit: Allow 300mm to the left hand side (facing the front of the unit), 600mm to the right of the unit, 300mm to the rear of the unit and 1500mm to the front of the unit.

Diagram Description: A diagram shows the outdoor unit with dimensions for clearances. It also indicates a drain hole (Φ20 x 4ea), drain plug (1ea), and drain cap (3ea). The air discharge side is also indicated.

The Control Box

Each heat pump is delivered with its own control box which also contains the flow switch. Install the control unit indoors as it's not waterproof. It needs to be sited less than 15m from the hot water cylinder, 100m from the outdoor unit and as near as possible to the pump, flow switch and any zone valves. The box dimensions are 323mm (width) x 339mm (height) x 131mm (depth).

Pipework Schematic

Pipework Schematic size 9 and 16 units

Each heat pump has 1-inch BSP male connections; these should be connected to flexi hoses. The flexi hoses have to be insulated to conform to MCS.

You cannot combine the flow of the units together without a low loss header or buffer.

To maintain flow rate, we recommend 28mm pipework is used with this machine. NEVER use 22mm plastic tube; if you insist on using plastic, use 28mm throughout.

You will also need to install:

• A low loss header, buffer, or 2 heat exchangers
• 2 High resistance pumps
• Expansion vessel
• Pressure gauge
• Pressure relief valve
• Filling loop
• 2 x Magnetic filter strainers
• 2 x Flow meters
• Flow switch
• 4 x 2-port valves

We recommend the system has a break in it; you can use a header, a buffer, or a heat exchanger to do this. This is done to maintain uninterrupted flow.

The domestic hot water cylinder must be manufactured specifically for the heat pump and have a coil with a surface area of 3m² equivalent.

Diagram Description: A schematic shows two heat pumps (master and slave) connected to a header or buffer tank. It illustrates the flow of water, connections for pumps, a flow switch, and zone valves. Text annotations describe the connections and components.

Other Components to Supply and Fit

An expansion vessel, pressure gauge, pressure relief valve and filling loop

Most heating engineers use a robokit with the appropriate size expansion vessel; this is sized exactly the same way as when using a boiler.

Pump

Your pump needs to supply 20 l/min for the 9kW and 30 l/min for the 16kW unit. The static resistance through the unit is 10kPa for the 9kW and 15kPa for the 16kW unit. The flow meter has a resistance of around 5kPa. The cylinders (Gledhill) have a static resistance of 5kPa for the heat pump coil and 19kPa for the solar coil. The total resistance of the components will be approximately 39kPa for the size 9 unit and if the cylinder is piped using both coils, and approximately 44kPa for the size 16 unit.

Flow switch and flow meter

Each unit requires 17 L/min flow at all times. If you don't achieve this, an E911 error will occur. To check this, the flow switch is installed with the control box. The flow switch MUST be installed in either a horizontal or vertical orientation with at least 150mm of straight pipe either side. The connection is 1" female BSP. The wire is 2m long and needs to connect into the wiring station. This wire can be extended to suit. We recommend a flow meter is installed into the flow side of the flow switch as per the photo. Adaptors may be required to enable this join. The flow switch is not IP65 rated (weatherproof) and so must not be installed externally.

Diverter valves

If you require domestic hot water and heating, diverter valves are required; you need to supply these.

Water Filter

In all cases, a filter with a strainer needs to be installed in the return to the heat pump. A magnetic filter must also be installed in the return to the unit. The filters ensure that debris/foreign materials do not cause damage to the heat exchanger, which would void warranties.

Glycol

A propylene glycol mixture must be utilized to prevent freezing of the water within the system. It is important that the glycol concentration is adequate to protect the unit in case of power failure in very cold conditions. If the unit freezes up, there will be no warranty. Manufacturer dependent, a mix of around 25% should suffice.

Buffer vessels, heat exchangers and low loss headers

You don't have to use a buffer vessel on a Samsung, but we do need a minimum flow rate of 17 l/min and a circulating volume of over 20 Litres. To achieve this, it is much easier if you break the system in two with a header, a buffer, or a heat exchanger.

Bypass Valve

If you don't use a header, buffer, or heat exchanger, you must install a bypass valve in the heating circuit as far away from the heat pump as possible. The bypass valve enables flow to be maintained as the TRVs shut down at all times to prevent unit flow faults.

The Cylinder:

The cylinder needs to be installed less than 15m from the control box to allow for the temperature sensor cable. Note the size and weight of the cylinder. Full installation instructions are included with the cylinder. Cylinders can be used IF the coil area is more than 2.5m². Smaller coils are not acceptable and cannot be used. Please do not attempt to utilize a standard central heating, non-heat pump optimized cylinder. Cylinders can be pressurised or open vented.

Diagram Description: Images show an expansion vessel with a pressure gauge, a pump, and a flow meter with a flow switch.

Wiring Diagrams

Wiring diagram for heating and HW heat pump: Master

Diagram Description: A wiring diagram for the master unit shows connections for power input, flow switch, backup boiler sensor, run signals, communication cable, and various terminals (TB-C, T5, T40, T3, T2). It details power supply requirements for different unit sizes.

Wiring Diagram Slave

Diagram Description: A wiring diagram for the slave unit shows connections for power input, flow switch, tank sensor, communication cable, immersion heater, hot water valve, heating valve, and various terminals. It also details power supply requirements and how valves operate.

Stats and heating wiring

Diagram Description: A diagram illustrates the wiring for thermostats and heating, showing connections from pumps to thermostats and a header/buffer/heat exchanger. It notes that if underfloor heating is used, the stat is replaced with the boiler run signal in the manifold.

Wiring and Power Supply Information

Master Unit:

• Power: The EHS system needs 2 power supplies. One connects into the outdoor unit (20 Amp for 9kW, 32 Amp for size 16). The other for the control box is 3 Amp and wires into A1 and A2 on the PCB; the breaker must be removed.
• Communication cable: Must be run from the outdoor unit to the control box. Use 2-core flex 0.5-1mm (16V ac).
• Sensors: The red safety sensor is to avoid over-temperature; it plugs into a red socket T3 on the controller PCB and must be fixed to the flow pipe of the heat pump before it joins the header.
• Thermostats/timers and underfloor heating manifolds: It is recommended that heating is controlled by an external field-supplied room stat/setback stat, time clock, or a run signal from a boiler enable signal from underfloor manifolds. The heat pump run signal connects from B20–B22; B20 is permanently live 240V ac.
• Pump: The circulation pump must be wired Live to B6 and neutral to B5. MAX pump power is 500 Watts. If two pumps are used, wire them both to these terminals.

Slave Unit:

• Power: The EHS system needs 2 power supplies. One connects into the outdoor unit (20 Amp for 9kW, 32 Amp for size 16). The one for the control box is 16 Amp and wires into A1 and A2 on the PCB; the breaker must be removed.
• Immersion Heater: Connected into the control box terminals A3 (Neutral) and A4 (Live). The control box controls the immersion heater. If a fused spur is used, it must be labelled as switching it off will cause an error.
• Communication cable: Must be run from the outdoor unit to the control box. Use 2-core flex 0.5-1mm (16V ac).
• Sensors: The blue cylinder sensor plugs into socket T4 on the controller PCB and into the control sensor pocket in the cylinder, in the top ½ of the cylinder. It must be above the immersion heater. The cylinder sensor needs to go 115mm into the cylinder and must be clipped so it can't pull out. The red safety sensor is not needed.
• Using two-port valves: For Hot water, wire brown wire to B9 and Blue to B7; the rest are not used. For heating zone 1, wire B14 (live) and B11 (neutral).
• Run signal: The run signal for this unit comes from terminal B2 in the master unit and connects to B22 in the slave unit.
• Pump: The circulation pump must be wired Live to B6 and neutral to B5. MAX pump power is 500 Watts. If two pumps are used, wire them both to these terminals.

Start-up Procedure

Commissioning one unit at a time

Filling and flushing:

When installing any Heat pump, we insist on a thorough system flush prior to connection in line with the Building Regulations for England and Wales, Part L, 2006. Using the power flusher, fill the system with water and 25% Propylene Glycol to more than 1 bar.

With the power OFF, remove the front of the remote controller by sliding it upwards. Turn it over and hold the red sensor at the top. DON'T TOUCH THE PCB. There are 8 dip switches near the red sensor. Using a small screwdriver, flick dip switches 1 and 5 to ON. Cooling will no longer be available. Put the controller back on the wall.

Image Description: Images show the Samsung remote controller, its front cover removed to reveal dip switches, and the internal PCB with a red sensor.

Powering Up

Make sure all your room thermostats are off and all underfloor run signals are off first. Apply power to the indoor control box first, then the outdoor unit. At the indoor unit, in the middle of the control box PCB, you will see two tiny LEDs: one red and one orange/green flashing. If this doesn't happen, check there is power on at the outdoor unit. Check the comms cable between the outdoor unit and the control box (F1 and F2).

Setting the Clock and Field Settings

Setting the Clock

Press the grey set button for 5 seconds. The day will flash; adjust this with the silver up and down buttons, then press grey set. The hours will flash; adjust with the silver up and down buttons, press grey set. The minutes will flash; adjust with the silver up and down buttons, press grey set. You are back to the normal screen.

Diagram Description: A series of controller screen mockups show how to set the clock, highlighting the 'Set' button and up/down controls.

Field Settings

Field settings define how the unit is configured and operates. Many field settings will need to be made. The set button is grey, not blue. Field settings are grouped: 20s for weather compensation and temperature control in heating, 30s for the cylinder, and 40s for backup boilers and hybrid systems.

To enter field settings, press 'test' for 6 seconds; '10' will show on the screen. Scroll up to 20 using the silver up button, press 'set'; '2011' will show. To adjust a setting, press 'set' again; the setting appears at the top of the screen. Adjust with silver up/down buttons and press 'set' again. Scroll to the next field setting using up/down buttons and repeat. When finished with the 20s, press 'cancel delete' once; '20' will show. Press the silver up button to move to the 30s and repeat. When finished, press 'cancel delete' twice to return to the normal screen.

Note: If you set a field setting and go back to check it, it will not have changed. Field settings are not written to the PCB until you finish setting and exit.

Field settings to set, see user manual for a full list:

• 2011-2: Low ambient setting for optimisation set to -5 in Scotland
• 2012 +15: High ambient temp for optimisation
• 2021 45-50: Flow temperature in cold weather 50°C for rads, 45°C for ufloor
• 2022 37°C: Flow temperature in mild weather 37°C for rads, 37°C for ufloor
• 2091 1: Tells unit to look for a run signal on terminal B22
• 3011 1: Tells unit it has a tank connected
• 3025 50-90: Mins, max tank heating time (50 for up to 210L, 75 for 300L tanks)
• 3032 30: Mins, delay time before immersion heater starts in tank mode
• 3042: Wednesday day legionella happens (always use Wednesday)
• 3043: 3 am time it happens
• 3044: 60°C legionella temp

It is possible to scroll through the days and select every day, then legionella can be run daily rather than weekly.

Electrically Testing the Unit

It is possible to test each component one after another using a service function to ensure correct wiring.

To access service mode, press the blue 'set' button and 'test' button together for 6 seconds. The controller will display 'TEST'.

Press the top left button: the unit will run the pump. To test the external run signal or stat, adjust the temperature on the stat upwards. 'Heat1' will replace 'TEST' on the screen.

To exit service mode, press and hold 'cancel delete' for 6 seconds.

Test 1

Firstly, in test mode, run the pump by pressing the blue 'set' button and 'test' button together for 6 seconds. The controller will display 'TEST'. Immediately press the top left button to turn the pump on and leave it running. When the pump is running, a symbol of a house with a circle around it appears in the status window of the controller.

The unit requires at least 17 L/min flow to activate the flow switch. If there is not enough flow, the unit will never operate. You should have a flow meter installed. If you look into the flow meter, you can see the flow in litres per minute. The image shows a flow rate indicated as 25 L/min (not 35 L/min).

If the flow rate is too low, you need to fix this before moving on.

Diagram Description: A controller screen shows 'TEST' and a flow meter displays '25 L/min'.

Starting it up in heating mode:

Turn up your thermostats to send a run signal to the unit. The pump will start immediately. A symbol of a house with a circle around it appears in the status window. When the compressor starts after 3 minutes, a symbol of a milk churn with a 'c' in it appears in the status screen. The pipework will begin to heat up. Check the flow temperature by pressing the blue 'view' button once; the temp of the flow is shown next to the house symbol. Over time, this will warm up. Check all radiators or U-floor loops are hot as well.

E911 and compressor not running:

E911 means the water is not moving fast enough to push the paddle switch. The flow switch trips out at 15 L/min; if the flow drops below this, E911 shows.

Check:

• The flow rate MUST be over 17 L/min.
• The flow switch is connected to the PCB of the control box.
• The flow switch is oriented correctly; you can turn the head.
• All valves are open.
• The pump speed is set at the highest.
• There is no air in the system.
• There is water in the system.

If you manually open the hot water 2-way valve and check the flow rate again, if you can only reach 16 L/min with both heating and hot water open, it's a sure sign the pump you have installed is too small.

If you think the flow switch is faulty (it very rarely is), remove the paddle from the water by undoing the red nut. You will need to block up the hole temporarily. Run the pump again, switch your stats down then up again. After 3 minutes of pump operation and holding the flow switch, the outdoor unit will start. Do not rush the system; it takes time.

Rattling flow switch / Cavitation

E911 fault could be caused by a rattling flow switch. This can usually be heard but can also be felt by holding the flow switch. To correct it, use a screwdriver or pliers on the top of the flow meter and turn the ball-o-fix valve from 12 o'clock to 1 o'clock; this deflects the water flow and should further reduce the rattle.

Diagram Description: Images show a flow meter with a valve in the 1 o'clock position.

Starting the System in Hot Water Mode

Press the 'Hot water on/off' button (top right button) to start the unit.

Set the desired temperature to 48°C. Press the blue 'set' button once until a tap symbol shows, then set the temperature using the up and down buttons.

The unit will take up to 6 minutes to start in Hot water mode. Be patient and do not press buttons. When the unit is heating the cylinder, a coke can symbol shows on the controller.

Run test in hot water mode

In hot water mode, check that the 2-port valves are sending water into the hot water cylinder. Using the 'view' button (blue) on the remote controller, check the hot water cylinder temperature and note it down. The hot water temperature is displayed when the tap symbol shows.

After 15 minutes of running, check the hot water temperature again; it should have risen. If the temperature has not risen, check the blue temperature sensor is installed properly. If the unit is running well, it should heat the cylinder to 48°C without needing the immersion heater.

Not enough hot water.

The water storage temperature is lower (48°C) than a normal fossil fuel cylinder. It's important to check that any shower or bath mixers do not further reduce the water temperature. Using your thermometer, check that the hot water comes out of the tap at the same temperature it leaves the cylinder. If it doesn't, you might need to make adjustments to taps/mixers etc. Do not raise the cylinder temperature to compensate.

Problems and Cold Weather Caution

Problems:

If there is a problem, see page 14.

Caution in Cold weather

If the water in the system is below 10°C, the heat pump WILL NOT START. Press the blue 'view' button; you can see 4 sensor readings. Press it until the pump symbol (a circle round a house) shows. This is the water temperature. If it's below 10°C, the unit will not start, but the pump will run.

You must warm up the water to get the unit to run. The easiest way to do this is to run the immersion in Test mode (page 13) to warm up the cylinder first. By manually cranking open the HW valve, you can prime the heat pump with the warm water coming back from the cylinder.

If everything is cold (less than 5°C – the remote controller, the water, the tank, etc.), the unit will not operate correctly; it can't understand how the house has got so cold. You will find the on/off button for heating won't work, and if you try to use HW mode, it will switch itself off. You need to allow the unit to warm up first. Make sure the remote controller is in a heated room.

Warranty Registration

Warranty MUST be registered within 30 days of delivery to site. You must send proof of delivery with the warranty card. Warranty will start from the date the unit is delivered.

All registrations made more than 30 days after this period will be rejected.

If commissioning data is not available at this time, register the unit and send the data at a later date. The warranty certificate will be returned to you when the whole form is completed.

This warranty covers only the Samsung components of the installation; it is parts with a pre-set labour allowance only. The warranty is between Freedom Heat Pumps and the installation company only; this is NOT an end-user warranty.

It is the role of the installer to offer a warranty to the end user covering all of the heating system, including the heat pump.

The standard warranty is valid for 12 months from the date of delivery as entered on this card. If the unit is installed by a Samsung approved installer and this card is sent back within 30 days of the delivery date, the warranty is automatically extended to 36 months.

Approved installers also have access to warranty extensions at the time of registration for warranty; a 4-year extension to the warranty can be purchased from your distributor or directly from Freedom Heat Pumps.

Call 02380274833 for details and pricing.

The warranty card can also be used as a maintenance card.

Form Description: A form titled 'Samsung EHS commissioning and maintenance sheet' is presented, with fields for unit details (Model Number, Serial Number, Ambient air temp, filter cleaning, glycol concentration, coil cleaning, polishing), heating mode details (Water flow temp, Water return temp, Flow rate, Temp of air at back of unit, Flow rate with manifolds closed), cylinder details (model, water temp, flow rate, immersion heater settings), commissioning data (purchase location, installation date, commissioning date, installer approval), and engineer details (name, company, address, phone, email, signature, date). It concludes with a declaration to accept warranty terms and register the system.

Maintenance Monobloc Systems

The Samsung heat pump should be maintained at least once a year to comply with warranty and RHI. The warranty card also doubles up as a maintenance sheet.

Maintenance procedure

1. Stop the unit, clean the strainer or magnetic filter in accordance with manufacturer's recommendations and replace it.
2. Test the concentration of the anti-freeze (glycol) in the system using a glycol tester; the level should be 25%. If you don't have a glycol tester, a glycol tester/refractometer can be bought from your heat pump supplier or online.
3. Refill the unit; pressure should be 1-2 bar.
4. We need to test the operation of the unit against the hot water cylinder. Draw off 50 liters of water, run a couple of taps for 5 mins to achieve this. The unit should start up automatically in hot water mode. If it doesn't, press the top right button on the controller. In 3-4 mins, it will start heating the cylinder; a coke can symbol will show in the status section of the remote controller.
5. The heat pump should be able to achieve 48°C cylinder temperature without using the immersion heater.
6. While running, check the outdoor unit for damage & debris. The coil needs washing; use an approved EHS heat pump cleaning chemical. Clean and polish the outside casing with car wax.

Hot water Cylinder:

Check electrical connections & sensor are fixed properly and the overheat thermostat is set to 70°C.

Diagram Description: An image shows the immersion heater within a hot water cylinder, with an overheat thermostat adjustment point indicated.

Press the silver immersion button on the Samsung remote controller; this will force the immersion heater on. Check immersion heater works properly. Measure the current drawn by the heater; it should be 12-13 Amps.

Measure the temperature of the flow using the remote controller.

Measure the flow rate from the flow meter.

With the unit running flat out, measure the temperature of the air as it enters the coil and the temperature of the air in the garden. They should be the same; check cold air is not recirculating.

Explaining the Operation to the End User

Master System Operation:

The unit runs from an external signal (room thermostat or underfloor heating system via B20-B22 and/or B20-B24). The controller no longer drives the unit. When the contact is made, the unit starts, and water temperature is controlled by the heat pump based on outdoor temperature (weather compensation mode).

You will see 0.0°C on the screen, indicating weather compensation is active. You can boost heating water temperature by pressing silver up/down buttons, which adds up to +5°C to radiators but increases running costs.

When an external stat or run signal is used, most functions of the Samsung remote are disabled, indicated by a 'waging finger' symbol.

Note: When the heating command is sent, the unit will not start for 3 minutes. When the thermostat or signal is removed, the pump will run on for up to 6 minutes. On the latest software, the end user can override the stat by switching the unit off with the top left button; avoid this as the unit will no longer run. If the sun signal is not on the display, heating will not operate.

Slave Unit Operation:

When the master unit struggles to heat the house and the ambient temperature is below 10°C, the slave unit will assist.

How Hot Water Works:

The hot water cylinder has priority over heating. If the cylinder temperature falls 5 degrees below its set point, the unit automatically switches to heating the cylinder. Once the set temperature is achieved, it returns to heating the house. The hot water cylinder loses almost no heat (1/3 degree per hour) if no hot water is used. A cold cylinder should reheat within an hour. An anti-legionella operation occurs automatically once a week (typically Tuesday morning), making the hot water hotter on that day.

Information for the Homeowner

Your Samsung heat pump heats the house and hot water cylinder similarly to a normal fossil fuel boiler, with a few differences:

1. The radiator temperatures are lower than normal and vary with outdoor temperature. This function is automatic and saves money. Radiator temperatures can reach 50°C. Setting a constant radiator temperature by an engineer will increase run costs by up to 25%.
2. The system is designed to run continuously in cold weather. Turning it on and off makes the house uncomfortable and increases run costs. The most efficient way to run this system is to leave it running at the set temperature 24 hours a day in winter. If the house gets cold (below 17°C), it will take a long time to warm up.

Your system is set up for simple operation. The Samsung controller is for commissioning and making settings only; do not use it for daily operation. You should see 0.0°C on the screen, indicating external control from a room thermostat.

If the system goes into fault, the screen will show a number starting with 'E' (e.g., E911–A00). The engineer will need this number.

Heating:

Heating control is via your wall-mounted thermostat, not the Samsung controller. Read the thermostat's instructions. The boiler runs when told by the thermostat. Do not set the room temperature too low, as the heat pump takes time to recover. As a rule, do not set the temperature more than 2 degrees below your normal setting when you go out; otherwise, it will take a long time to recover. To switch off heating in summer, set the temperature down to 16°C. Use radiator valves to control room temperature.

Hot water:

Your system keeps the hot water cylinder hot automatically. As you use water, the heat pump tops up the cylinder. A cold cylinder reheats within an hour. An anti-legionella operation occurs weekly (predetermined time, e.g., Tuesday morning), making the hot water hotter on that day.

Warranty Important:

Attached to this document is a warranty page that your installer must fill in and return to activate the warranty. No claim will be processed without this paperwork. Your installer will offer warranty packages for your installation and their own work.

www.samsungehs.co.uk ©G Hendra January 2015