Instruction Manual for Real Good Toys models including: JM907 Special Edition Alison, JM907, Special Edition Alison, Edition Alison, Alison
Real Good Toys Dollhouse Assembly Instructions - download for free
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DocumentDocumentSpecial Edition Alison, Jr. Instructions for
Real Good Toys' The
Special Edition Kit #SE-JM907 ©05/24
Congratulations on your choice of a Real Good Toys product. Your kit has been precision made with meticulous care by our craftspeople using carefully selected materials. This Dollhouse will last for years, even generations, if heirloom care and attention is given during assembly. Take your time and read the instructions completely. If you have questions, ask the experts at your local Dollhouse store or at info@realgoodtoys.com
Before you begin - You have already opened the box and see all the parts organized in boxes and bundles. For the moment, keep them that way. There are important things to do before you open your glue bottle.
Preview the Overview (page 2) to plan and organize your build; this helps you proceed with confidence.
Measure and identify the parts: The kit is packed in groupings that protect the parts, and that is how the Parts List is organized. As you measure and identify the parts, label them with sticky notes using the names from the parts list, and check them off the parts list so you know you have everything. Taking the time now to identify and organize the parts also makes them familiar so you will understand what the instructions intend as you read ahead.
Prepare your space: This dollhouse will spread out over a large area while it is being built. You will need a large flat tabletop for the house,
several boxes to keep parts organized until they are needed, and several trays lined with waxed paper for holding small parts like windows and
railings. A snap-lid box will keep your tools and supplies handy between building sessions.
· Plan ahead so you know where you are going · Read ahead so you know how to get there · Paint ahead so the parts will be ready when you need them
Supplies: see www.realgoodtoys.help "Supplies" tab for more info on finding and using the supplies suggested here
Paint: Interior semi-gloss latex paint... Almost everything gets at least one coat before assembly - get the paint now.
Paintbrushes 1" or 2" foam brushes for each color, 3" foam roller for interior painting
Sandpaper: 320 grit, 3-5 sheets
Glue: Aleene's Original Tacky Glue for the dollhouse, Solvent-Based panel cement for shingles
Masking tape: ¾" or 1"
Wiring: it's easiest to install some parts during assembly... order wiring supplies now.
Wallpaper paste: Grandmother Stover's or Roman's "Border" Paste
Not suitable for children under 13 years of age California 93120 compliant for formaldehyde phase 2
www.realgoodtoys.help
Real Good Toys 122 Gallison Hill Rd Montpelier VT 05602 802 262-6018 www.realgoodtoys.com
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-907 Alison Jr
Assembly Notes /Getting Started (A) page 2
Options for building the Alison Jr. Dollhouse
See your local dollhouse shop or www.realgoodtoys.com
Exterior: Exterior Paint Color:
Doors: Exterior
Interior
see www.realgoodtoys.help for suggestions
Accessories:
Gingerbread
Flower Boxes
Foundation Stucco Grit
Octagonal Shingles
Fancy Windows and Doors
Turnposts and Spindles
Interior:
Wiring
Wallpaper Interior paint color:
#6002
#6018
#6022
#1015
Ceilings Painted walls Interior trim Flooring:
A Doghouse for your Dollhouse
Note: I often enlarge an interior door opening to fit the #6022 Windows: fit: full-size; working or non-working
Split Octagonal Shingles
Applied wood, tile, or carpet Banister & Landing Rails
Shingle Dye
Window and Door trim
Baseboard and Crown
Wallpaper
Dye1: Reddish Brown Dye3: Dark Grey
#5042
#5041
P2000 HH444
JM33
Turntables, Platform Turntables, and Turntables with wiring feed are available
Trim and Stripwood
Flute24
SW16
RGT8
See page 22
Real Good Toys' Best1 Dollhouse Wiring Set
#4017 Stair and Landing Set
6803 Banister & Landing Set
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-907 Alison Jr
Assembly Notes /Getting Started (A) page 3
Overview of the Build:
Slideshows, demos, useful links, details, and photos are all at:
Details of each step will be expanded along the way, but lots
www.realgoodtoys.help
of folks like to see how it all fits together before they start
Glue the shingles on with glue that doesn't have any water
Identify and label all of the parts
in it! If the glue says "water clean-up", it will curl the wooden
Paint everything* one coat (see www.realgoodtoys.help/JM907/painting) shingles. Look carefully at the glue you intend to use to be
*that will be painted in the finished dollhouse
sure it is solvent-based, or use hot-melt glue (and watch out
Finish the floors
for the burns). I use a "Sub-Floor Adhesive" glue which
Sand painted surfaces until the paint is smooth, trans- comes in a caulking-gun tube at the hardware or building
parent, and some of the wood is showing through
supply store. It says "Caution: Flammible" on the front, and
Optional: Add an Electrification Slot to the Base Floor* that's how I am sure it is solvent based. Check ingredients
Build the housebody until the Top Floor
and warnings! See www.realgoodtoys.help [Shingls] for more.
Optional: Start the wiring Mark, paint, and attach theTop Floor Build and attach the Foundation Pre-cut wallpaper for the inside of the Roofs Attach the Roofs (Optional: E-slot the Top Floor)
If you Wallpaper, use Grandmother Stover's (Yes®) paste or pre-mixed Roman's 543 "Border" paste. Brush paste on the wallpaper, then the wall, and finally smooth the wallpaper into position.
Optional: Attic wiring
Taking things apart: Heat softens glue. If you have to take
Install the Dividers (but not the Blind Dividers)
things apart, warm the part in the oven at 170o for up to a half
Optional: Finish the wiring
hour to let the heat get into the joint where the glue is. Don't let
Assemble and finish painting
it get hotter than you can touch or the paint may scorch. Don't
Finish the outside
heat window panes.
Finish the inside
When glue is drying, skip ahead to up-coming assembly
*Wiring? www.realgoodtoys.help Click the buttons "JM907" and "Wiring" for wiring information specific to this house.
steps and prepare the parts that will be used Before you begin, read the "Finish the Inside" section on the last page.
Assembly Tips:
A large, clutter-free, well-lighted work area is helpful Q: Can I wallpaper before I assemble the doll house? during assembly, but a flat work surface is essential.
A: Yes you can (it's your house!) Many experienced builders
Read the instructions carefully; look at each of the are advocates of papering before construction - I am not.
illustrations. !With the parts in your hands!, think the My biggest objection to papering first is that you are always
assembly through before you proceed.
too skimpy with glue so none will squeeze out and get on the
Test fit each time you are ready to glue a piece in place...then you'll know you have it right. If more tape or a helper is needed, it's good to know that before the parts have glue on them.
paper. I try to use the amount of glue that fills the joint, so some will squeeze out in every joint and be wiped up. But wiping glue off of wallpaper leaves a streak, so the temptation is to go skimpy, and the joints aren't as strong.
Don't be stingy with glue or tape; use generous amounts. Always wipe off excess glue immediately. Keep one damp rag and one dry rag handy all the time. Have weights available for holding things tight as glue joints dry (stacks of books, gallons of pure Vermont Maple Syrup - anything heavy)
Glue the body of your dollhouse together with white, water clean-up glue that dries clear. Do not use instant-bond (super glue), fast-tack, rubber cement, silicone, or hot melt glues. They are all used in some wood applications, but they all have some characteristic that makes them un-desirable for the body of your dollhouse. Carpenter Glue works well, but glue-smear dries yellow; many of the things you glue onto the house are pre-painted extra glue will show. I use Aleene's Original Tacky Glue® for housebody assembly. Make sure everything is straight and flat as glue dries... That's the shape that will be permanent.
Second, I can always tell a house that was pre-papered because the corners show a void instead of being continuous (see the slideshows about how to crowd the papers together in the corner... you can't do that with pre-papered walls).
Third, I have had to replace paper too often that has gotten damaged by glue or tape during construction... that wastes time and paper ($) and can make it so you are left deciding whether to replace a damaged paper or letting it slide because you don't have any more of that pattern and you'll have to order it and that takes too much time (running out but then needing another piece is a distressing moment).
Finally, I don't find pre-papering to be faster. By the time I have done all of the extra planning that getting the papers in the right place requires, I have used up any potential advantage. I have great big blacksmith's hands, and papering in a finished house is easy for me. All that having been said, I do pre-cut the papers used in the attic before attaching the Roofs and I paper in front of the Blind Dividers (21/2") before I glue them in place.
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-907
Identify the parts: Open one bundle at-a-time. Measure each part and find it on the parts list. Label the parts and, as you preview the instructions, group them as they will be used.
Parts List
page 4
The Woodgrain Flooring, Assembled Door, Sawn Shingles, and other extras make this a "Special Edition" Kit. In any correspondence include the words "Special Edition" so we can help you properly.
Parts List: Measurements are approximate and are for identification purposes only
(1) UE 6411 Base Floor: (1/4 w/ flooring) 22 x 117/8 (1) UE 6412 Middle Floor: (3/8 w/ flooring) 22 x 117/8, Stair hole (1) UE 6413 Top Floor: (3/8 w/ flooring) 237/8 x 157/8, Stair hole (1) E 6414 Porch Base Floor: (1/4) 14 x 37/8 (1) E 6415 Porch Mid Floor: (3/8) 14 x 37/8 (2) E 6416 Side: (3/8 Milled) 185/8 x 113/4, Grooved (1) E 6417 Right Front: (3/8 Milled) 185/8 x 14, Cutouts, Grooved (2) E 6418 Tower Side: (3/8 Milled) 185/8 x 37/8, Grooved
Mid Floor
Electrification Slot - makes running tapewire from floor-to-floor easier... if you do not intend to wire your dollhouse, ignore the Electrification Slot
(1) E 6419 Tower Front: (3/8 Milled) 28 x 7, Windows, Grooved (1) E 6420 Left Front: (3/8 Milled) 185/8 x 11/2, Grooved (1) E 6423 Attic Divider: (3/8) 9 x 155/8, Door (2) E 3615 Divider: (3/8) 9 x 113/4, Door
Top Floor
(4) E 6424 Blind Divider: (3/8) 9 x 13/8 (1) E 6425 Rooftop: (1/4) 205/16 x 141/8
Base Floor
(1) E 6426 R. Front Roof: (1/4) 1411/16 Base x 97/32, Dormer Cutouts
(1) E 6430 Tower Rooftop: (1/4) 41/2 x 43/4
Tower Floors
(1) E 6431 Rooftop Extension: (1/4) 77/8 x 25/8
(1) UE 6432 Tower Base Floor: (1/4 w/ flooring) 61/2 x 4 (1) UE 6433 Tower Floor: (3/8 w/ flooring) 61/2 x 4 (1) E 6436 Foundation: (1/2) 205/8 x 11/4
Tower Rooftop
Long Foundations
(4) E 6437 Foundation: (1/2) 147/8 x 11/4
(1) E 6438 Foundation: (1/2) 117/16 x 11/4 (1) E 6441 Foundation: (1/2) 225/32 x 11/4 (2) E 9803 Stringer: (1/8) 13/16 x ±107/8, Mitered
Porch Floors
(2) E 9801 Bottom Stair Block: 21/4
(2) E 9802 Top Stair Block: 21/4
Rooftop
Attic Divider
Rooftop Extension
Top Stair Block
Divider
Bottom Stair Block
Blind Dividers
Stringer
Left Front Tower Side Tower Front Tower Side Right Front Sides
Instructions for Special Edition Kit #JM-907
Bevel Left Side Roof
Bevel faces out Left Front Roof
Right Front Roof
Parts List
page 5
Bevel Right Side Roof
(10) E 6448 7/16 Trimstrip: 3/32 x 185/8 (Exterior)
(2) E 6449 1/2 Ledge Trim: (1/8) x 157/8
(1) E 6450 1/2 Ledge Trim: (1/8) x 14 13/16
Interior Door Trim
(1) E 6451 1/2 Ledge Trim: (1/8) 21/4 (packed with the Door)
Inner Box: (1) E 6453 Bag of Shingles (850) (22) E 6443 Bracket: 1/4 (11) E 6515 3/8 Beads (11) E 6444 Trimpost: (1/2 Flutepost) 7/8 (1) E 6456 Hanging Front Gingerbread: 11/8
(28) T1020 Window Vertical Frame: 55/16, Mitered (4) E6455 Dormer Interior Vert. Trim: 5, Miters
(28) T1021 Window Horizontal Frame: 213/16, Mitered (4) E6454 Dormer Interior Horiz. Trim: 21/2, Miters (24) E3633 Shutter Panel: (5/64) 3/4 x 17/8
(4) E 6447 Fillstrip: (1/8) 3/8 x 9 (Interior) (2) E 6452 9/16 Trim: 3/32 x 9 (1) E 3623 Groove Fill: (1/8) 3/8 x 4 (4) E 3619 Porch Post: (1/2 Flutepost) 9 (2) T0558 Door Interior Side Trim: 711/16, Miter
(12) E3632 Shutter Core: (1/8) 1 x 45/8 (3) E 6445 Assembled Railing: 63/8 (2) E 6446 Assembled Railing: 31/4 (1) 6042 Assembled Door (8) T1022 Window Pane: 5 x 21/2 (4) E 6459 Porch Front Gingerbread: 63/8 (1) T0559 Door Interior Top Trim: 33/8, Miters
(1) E 6462 Roof Top Cresting, Left: 75/8 (1) E 6463 Roof Top Cresting, Front: 113/16 (1) E 6464 Roof Top Cresting, Right: 123/4
(1) E 6457 Hanging Side Gingerbread: 31/4 (2) E 6458 Porch Side Gingerbread: 31/4 (2) E 6460 Tower Top Cresting: 31/8 (2) E 6461 Tower Top Cresting: 31/4
(3) E 6429 Tower Roof: (1/4) 77/8 Tall x 73/8 Base (1) E 6427 Left Front Roof: (1/4) 21/8 Base x 97/32 Tall (1) E 6421 Left Top Tower Side: (3/8 Milled) 9 Tall x 21/8 Top (1) E 6422 Right Top Tower Side: (3/8 Milled) 9 Tall x 21/8 Top (1) E 6428R Right Side Roof: (1/4) 155/8 Base x 97/32 (1) E 6428L Left Side Roof: (1/4) 155/8 Base x 97/32 (4) E 6434 Dormer Side: (1/4) 57/16 Tall x 13/16 Top (2) E 6435A Dormer Ceiling: (1/4) 29/16 x 13/16 Top, Bevel (2) E 6435B Dormer Roof: (3/4) 15/8 x 31/2, Bevels (3) E 3626 Flower Box: (1/2) 3/4 x 33/4, Mitered (2) E 6439 Foundation: (5/8) 11/32 x 11/4 (3) E 6440 Foundation: (5/8) 5/8 x 11/4 (1) E 6442 Step: (3/4) 6 x 11/2
Tower Roofs
Shutter Panel Shutter Core
Top Tower Sides
Tower Top Cresting
Dormer Roof Dormer Ceiling
Dormer Side
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
Assembly notes, A: Getting Started Page 6
A: Getting Started: Do these things before the house assembly
Square the corners of the window, door, and stair holes with a utility knife - each cutout has a rounded corner left over from the tool that made it. Make two cuts in each corner from the outside (one from each direction), then cut from each direction on the inside to cut away the rounding in the corner so the window, door, or stairs will fit.
A Double-Cut Coarse File is easier for many people to use when squaring the corners. Make several strokes from each direction in each corner and test the Window or Door to see how it fits.
Utility Knife
Coarse Double-Cut File
Stain the Shingles: Our pro uses Real Good Toys' Shingle Dye (available through your Real Good Toys miniature dealer) when dying the shingles for this house. If you stain the shingles, you must use penetrating oil based stain, not "rubbing", "Gel" or latex-based. Batch dye or stain the shingles several days ahead of time so they will be dry when the time comes to use them (instructions are with the shingle dye).
Batch Dye Shingles
Pre-Assembly: Assemble the Foundation
Foundation Step 1
117/16"
11/32" 147/8"
225/32" (longest)
Foundation Step 2
view from the top
11/32"
Foundation Step 3
147/8" 147/8" 147/8"
Foundation Step 4
5/8
5/8
5/8
Without glue, line up a floor with the edges of the Foundation to hold the Foundation square as the glue dries.
63/16" spacing 205/8"
63/16" spacing
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
Painting Page 7
Painting: www.realgoodtoys.help has painting and sanding videos
Paint (first-coat) everything that will be painted in your finishing plan.. Don't try to sand , fill, primp, or do much of anything to the wood before the first coat. The first coat fills and reinforces the wood so sanding clips off the fibers rather than pushing them around. The first-coat is all about what penetrates and fills the wood. There is no expectation that more than a hint of paint will be on the surface. Don't `double paint' or try to give it an extra thick first coat as you watch the paint soak in... that is expected and preferred. Don't paint gluing surfaces or edges like the bottom of the Base Floor or the outsides of the roofs.
The first benefit of painting before assembly (one-coat) is that it is the easiest time to do a really thorough job of sanding after painting. The difference between a heirloom-grade finish on a dollhouse and a "I-was-in-a-hurry" finish is most often the quality of the sanding, and it's hard to sand into the little hidden corners of an assembled dollhouse, but it's easy to sand the flat panels layed out on a workbench. So sand everything now - sand until the paint is smooth and transparent with no scratchiness to it, and with lots of wood showing through the paint. For the clapboard walls, sand "one clapboard course at-a-time": fold the sandpaper and hold it on your finger-tips, then sand back-and-forth across one clapboard's suface 2 or 3 times, then move up to the next clapboard. "One at a time" is what makes it smooth and "Heirloom-Great".
Second coat everything after building the housebody up to the top of the Walls (before attaching the Top Floor). The second coat goes on smooth and creamy, and except for touchup, it may be enough.
First-coat
Sanding one course at a time
Q: How can I prevent glue from seeping onto the floor after I clamp (tape) the Sides together? A: Do not skimp on the glue... a little squeezing out tells you that there's enough glue in the joint. Clean up the
squeezings with a damp rag followed by a dry rag, and the little bit that remains down in the grooves will shrink back
as it dries, and will not be visible. This issue is one of the reasons it is important to pre-finish the floors before assembly. I know, the finish tries to bead up when you first put it on and it is `paint-can-runny', but just keep rubbing it out as it loses it's excess moisture and starts to get tacky, and that first coat will eventually behave itself and lay down properly. I like to do the first-coatrub-out with a crumple of brown paper bag so I can rub vigorously and `de-shine' the print flooring, but other builders report success with just brushing and brushing until the moisture level gets right. After the finish is dry, do a very light de-shine with a non-woven abrasive pad (like `Scotch Brite", the green pad you use in the kitchen for stainless steel pots... a used one is just right), and then apply a second coat of finish.
Finish the Floors: The floors need finishing to protect them from damage by tape being removed, by paint or glue, or by normal wear-and-tear during assembly. Wipe off the first coat and, when it is dry, de-shine the surface with a non-woven pad (also called "synthetic steel wool") or a crumple of brown paper bag; then apply more coats.
Can I do it differently? Yes you can - it's your house! The information on these pages is offered as "best practices" advice, and it is what we do when we build this house. If you are customizing or have something else in mind, test-ahead to make sure your planning includes everything!
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
B: HouseBody
Page 8
Assemble the Housebody:
1. Select the Middle Floor. Without glue, test the Floor panel along with the Sides to check the fit - scrape the edges of the grooves and the under-side of the floors where they fit into the grooves if necessary. Look at Illustration #2. The top edge of the Side is the edge without a groove. The top surface of the Middle Floor has the "flooring" finish, the stair hole is toward the front edge, and the floor sticks out 1/8" at the front edge.
Complete steps 2 - 9 without stopping
2. Spread glue in the grooves of both Side panels (Illustration #3). Use plenty of glue and spread it lightly with your finger to keep it from dripping
Now is a great time for an extra pair of hands.
3. Stand the Middle Floor on end (check the orientation again) in the middle groove of the Side.
Scrape the Floor
Scrape the Groove
Illustration #2 Check the fit of the Middle Floor and Side Panels
Top Edge
4. Adjust and check all the parts. The Floor must be flush at the back edge of the Side panel ("flush" means `forming a continuous, unbroken surface'). The Floor overhangs the front of the Side panels by 1/8"
5. The Base floor fits into the base floor groove. Notice that the floorboards are wider on one edge, and narrower on the other edge. Set up the Base Floor with the floorboard profile matching the floorboard profile of the Middle Floor. Set the Base Floor into the base floor groove lined up on the back edge.
6. Set the other Side onto the ends of the floors, flush at the back edge. Tape the floors to the Sides. Use lots of tape and stretch it tight for a good glue joint.
The Floor overhangs the front of the Side panels by 1/8"
Illustration #3 Spread glue in the grooves
7. Install the Groove Fill; tap with a hammer and wood
block for a snug fit (If the fit is too tight sand the edges of the Groove fill). The Groove Fill fills the floor's groove inside the stair hole, leaving a smooth wall (Illustration #4).
Illustration #4 Install the groove fill
Base Floor
If I can't continue to step 9 for any reason, I still temporarily set
the Right Front on the housebody as in step 9, and straighten the house to match the edges of the Right Front. If the glue dries
without straightening the house, Step 9 is more difficult.
The Floors stick out 1/8" in front
Groove Fill
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
B: Housebody
Page 9
8. Lay the housebody down on its BACK. Without glue test the Right Front in place on the house, flush with the Right Side at the top, bottom, and right edge. Remove the floor's tape that gets in the way.
9. Spread glue in the grooves of the Right Front panel and on the front edge of the Right Side panel. Set the Right Front into position on the housebody (Illustration #5).
Carefully tape in many places along the bottom edge, making sure the Base Floor is tight to the top edge of the groove.
Exactly line up the edge of the Front with the face of the Side, all the way from the bottom to the top (this is the operation that straightens the house). Tape the Front securely to the Right Side to hold everything tight as the glue dries (Illustration #6).
Review: Make sure all parts are in place and all the joints are tight.
· Check the position of the stair hole, closer to the
front edge.
· The Base Floor is tight to the groove-top. · The house is exactly lined up on the right edge.
Preview: In this section, you will attach the Tower Sides, Tower Floors, Fillstrips, and Left Front.
10. Glue a Tower Side to the Right Front panel touching the front edge of the floors (Illustration #7). Glue a Fillstrip to the back edge of the Tower Side between each floor. Tape the Tower Side and Fillstrip to the Right Front.
Illustration #5
Base Floor
Illustration #6
Flush
Illustration #7
Fillstrip
Right Front Panel Side Panel
Flush
Steps 10 and 12 view from the top
Left Front
Fillstrip
Right Front Tower Side
Tower Side
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
11. Hold the Tower Floors against the House Floors and check out the flooring pattern. When it is right, the pattern will be a continuous board width from the back of the house to the front. Glue and tape the Tower Floors in place, into the grooves of the Tower Right Side, and against the housebody's floors (Illustration #8). Make sure the top surface of the joint is lined up smoothly.
12. Glue and tape the Tower Left Side and Fillstrips to the Tower Floors.
13. Glue and tape the housebody's Left Front in place (Illustration #9).
14. Lay the housebody down on its back. Without glue, test the fit of the Top Floor
on the housebody, centered side-to-side. The Top Floor overhangs the Tower Sides 1/8" in the front and overhangs the house 11/16" on each side.
Lightly trace the perimeter of the housebody on the bottom of the Top Floor (Illustration #10). Check to make sure the housebody's sides are parallel with the sides of the Top Floor. The space outside the edges must be 11/16" on each side.
Remove the Top Floor and paint the outside of the tracing now. Make sure your housebody painting is done as well. Let the paint dry.
Illustration #8
Illustration #9 Left Front Panel
You can skip ahead to the section for assembling the Windows, and come back here when the paint is dry.
Wiring? Now is the best time to prepare for wiring. See www.realgoodtoys.help
B: Housebody
Page 10
Illustration #10 Trace the Housebody on the bottom of the Top Floor
1/8" overhang
Top Floor
11/16" overhang
11/16" overhang
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
C: Foundation
Page 11
15. Glue and tape the Top Floor to the housebody, flush at Left Front Roof the back and spaced evenly along the sides. The Top Floor must overhang the housebody evenly (11/16") on each side.
Top Floor
Review: all parts are in place and all joints are tight. · Check the position of the stair hole - on the right when looking at the house from the front. · The house is straight - the Sides are straight up-and-down in back · The Top Floor overhangs the sides by 11/16" · The Top Floor lines up with the Side inside the stair hole · The Top Floor lines up with the Sides in back
Add weights all around let the glue dry
Right Front Roof
Pro Tip: Do a second check for centering the
Top Floor by holding the Front Roofs upside-down against the bottom of the Top Floor. Each Roof should nearly reach (equal on both sides) from the Tower Side to the end of the Floor.
Attach the Foundation:
Wiring? The easiest time to prepare for wiring into the Foundation space for an E247 Jack is now (www.realgoodtoys.help).
16 - 17. If your Foundation hasn't been assembled yet, go back to page 6 and do it now. Pro Tip: Our Assembly Pro paints the foundation before attaching it to the house.
18. Glue, tape, and weight the housebody to the foundation set, lined up at the back edge and spaced evenly sideto-side. Make sure the Foundation is spaced evenly from back-to-front along each side.
Illustration #14
Foundation lines up with the rear edge of the Base Floor
Centered side-to-side, lined up with the floor
Centered side-to-side along the Side walls
19. Glue, tape, and weight the Porch base Floor (1/4" thick) to the housebody and Foundation
Let the glue dry
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
C: Foundation, D: Porch Page 12
Back to the Housebody...
20. Glue and tape the Tower Front in place flush
along the edges (Illustration #15).
21. Glue and tape the Top Tower Sides to the Tower
Front, lined up at the top (Illustration #16).
Illustration #15 Tower Front
Flush
Flush
Illustration #16
Tower Top Side
Flush
Illustration #17
9/16" Trim - 9"
Porch Assembly: The parts used in this section should be painted ahead of time. If they have not been painted, do so now.
Divider
Divider
Blind Divider
Preview: In this section, you will assemble the Porch.
Lay the housebody on its back. Place two Dividers on the Right Front Panel, one touching the porch base, and one touching the bottom of the Top Floor.
22. Glue the Porch Mid Floor to the Front Panel and
the Right Tower Side in the space between the Dividers. Use Blind Dividers to stabilize the Porch Mid Floor in position! (Illustration #17). [the Porch Mid Floor is 3/8" thick]
23. Glue (2) 9/16" Trim - 9" to the right side of the
Tower, lined up in Front.
Porch Mid Floor
Temporary use of Dividers and Blind Dividers to hold the Porch Floors while the glue sets. Remove the Dividers before installing the Porch Gingerbread
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
D: Porch
Page 13
3 1/4" Porch Side Gingerbread
Porch Post
Housebody
24. Set up the Rails, Posts and Gingerbread as shown in Illustrations 19 & 20. Use pairs of shingles if you wish to elevate the Railing sets above the Porch Floor.
Glue the porch parts in place.
31/4" Rail
Illustration #19
Porch Floor
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
D: Porch
63/8" Porch Front Gingerbread
Page 14
Porch Post
Porch Post
63/8" Rail
Illustration #20
Porch Floor
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
Illustration #21 Shingle Guidelines
E: Roof
Page 15
Pro Tip: it is far easier to pre-cut wallpaper to fit the roofs before attaching the roofs to the house. Wiring? Visit www.realgoodtoys.helo/JM907/wiring for steps to do right now.
1"
Housebody Roof:
Step 25
Preview: In this section you will draw Shingle guidelines,
and attach the Roof Panels and Roof Tops.
25. Glue and tape the Ledge Trim to the exposed edges
1"
of the Top Floor, flush along the bottom edge (the Ledge
Trim sticks up above the Floor).
26. On the outside of the Front and Side Roof Panels
draw guidelines for locating Shingles. The first guideline
should be drawn one Shingle length (11/4) from the bottom
1"
edge. Draw the rest of the guidelines spaced 1" apart (Il-
lustration #21 and the Guideline Measure at right).
27. Without glue, Test the Roof panels on the house to see how they fit. Take the Roofs off, then glue and tape
Ledge Trim - lined up on the bottom
them to each other, to the Top Floor, and to the Tower Top
1"
Sides (Illustration #22).
Check to make sure the Roofs are flush with the edges of the Tower Top Sides on the inside.
28. Set the Attic Divider inside the attic against the
1"
Front Roof. Make absolutely sure that the Front Roof is
flush with the top edge of the Attic Divider and the Tower
Top Sides (Illustration #22). Let the glue dry.
more details and slideshows at: www.realgoodtoys.help
Right Front Roof
Left Front
Roof
1"
Left Front Roof lines up with the back of the Tower Top Side on the inside
Side Roof
Attic Divider
1" Side Roof
Illustration #22
One Shingle Length
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
F: Roof Top
Page 16
29. Without glue, test the Roof Top on the tops of the Roofs and Tower Walls, flush with the back edge of the Roofs, and with an even overhang all around.
Roof Top
Roof Top Extension
· Make sure the overhang is parallel all along the Side Roofs, make sure the Roof Top is lined up with the back edges of the Side Roofs.
Tape · Test the Rooftop Extension on top of the Tower, lined up with the Roof Top on the Left edge.
Trace the outline of the house on the bottom of the Rooftop and Rooftop Extension.
Remove the Roof Top and Rooftop Extension. Paint the outside of the tracing. Finish painting the Tower Top Sides. Let the paint dry.
Illustration #23
Glue and tape the Roof Top in place. Check to make sure the overhang is parallel all along the Side Roof Top Extension Roofs, make sure the Roof Top is lined up with the back edges of the Side Roof; then tape the Roof Top to the back edge of the Side Roofs (Illustration #23). Add weights as the glue dries for a tight fit.
Roof Top
30. Glue and tape the Rooftop Extension in position (Illustration #24).
Review: Check the fit of all the parts and make sure all the joints are tight. Make sure the Floors and Roof Top are straight, flat, and evenly spaced around the edges. Use tape and weights as necessary to get all the joints tight as the glue dries.
Illustration #24
Let the glue dry
Exterior Painting:
Finish all of the Exterior painting now!
Skip ahead to the proper assembly sections to decide how
you would like each part finished:
· Brackets (pg.17)
· Trimstrips (at right)
· Windows and Door (pg.18) · Shutters (pg.18)
Illustration #25
· Dormers (pg.19)
· Cresting (pg.20)
· Fluteposts/Beads (pg. 20)
· Flower Boxes (pg.20)
7/16" Trimstrips:
31. Glue Trimstrips to cover the side edges of the fronts (Left, Right, Tower). See Illustration #25.
Cut and carve Trimstrip material to fit the tower edges above the ledge (Trimstrip material can be cut with a razor saw, utility knife with a new, sharp blade, or with scissors)
Cut 7/16" Trim 9" for the inside corner of the porch (the Right Tower Side gets 9/16" x 9" Trim).
3/8" Fillstrips
Trimstrips
Carve the Trim for a perfect fit
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
F: Trim, Tower Roof
Page 17
Brackets:
32. Paint the Brackets before attaching them. Turn the house upside-down. Lay out the Brackets as follows:
· Three pairs across the Tower Front (Illustration #26) · Four pairs on each Side of the house (Illutrtation .#27)
The outside pairs touch the Trimstrips. Space the Brackets in each pair about 1/16" apart. When the Bracket spacing is right (about 39/16" on the sides and 33/16" on the tower), remove the Brackets one at a time, and glue that bracket on.. etc. until all the brackets are glued on. Check that all the spacing is still the way you like it. Let the glue dry.
Illustration #26 Tower Front 33/16"
Brackets
Illustration #27
Space approx. 31/16" on center
31/16
Tower Roof:
33. A. On the outside of the Tower Roofs, draw guidelines for locating Shingles. The first guideline should be drawn one Shingle length from the bottom edge. Draw the rest of the guidelines spaced 1" apart (Guideline Measure on page 15).
B. Glue and tape the Tower Roofs together with the Tower Front Roof overlapping the Tower Side Roofs.
Glue the Tower Roof Top in place on the Tower Roofs, spaced evenly all around. Tape and weight as necessary for a good fit. Paint the Tower Roof Top.
C. Glue the Tower Roofs to the house Roof Top, spaced evenly on the front and sides.
Step 33 A
Tower shingle guidelines
Tower Side Roof
Tower Front Roof
Step 33 B Tower Roof Top
step 33 C
Spaced evenly
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
G: Windows & Door
Page 18
Window Assembly: The parts used in this section should be painted ahead of time. If they have not been painted, do so now.
34. Test assemble (no glue) a window set Practice holding the frame pieces face-down on the work surface and putting on the rubber band (Illustration #31: a scrap of tape at each corner helps). In the illustrations, the hands are holding the frame parts down, not squeezing together. When you can get the rubber band on every time without pieces flying, then you are ready for glue
35. Glue and rubber band together the window frames (14). Glue, tape, and rubberband together two Dormer Interior Trim frames (Illustration #32). Make sure the frames are square as the glue dries (Illustration #33).
36. Check the fit of the windows in the openings. Make sure the windows can sit level with the house. Trim the corners of the openings square if necessary for a good fit.
37. Paint the Shutter parts on both faces. Without glue, adjust the spacing of the Shutter Panels on the Shutter Cores (Illustration #34). Remove the Shutter Panel, put a scant line of glue on each edge of the back surface, then replace the Shutter Panel. Too much glue will make the panel curl.
38. Glue the windows, the Door, and the Shuttters in place only after everything (including the Housebody) is painted.
Attach the exterior window frames as part of the exterior finishing. After the interior finishing is done (wallpaper, paint, etc.), set the window plexi into the window cutout without glue and glue the interior window frame in place.
Snips of tape can hold the corners while putting on a rubber band - take off the tape while the glue dries Window Frame is shown face down
Illustration #31
The hands are holding the frame parts Down, not squeezing them together
Dormer Window
Illustration #32
Dormer Exterior Frame
Dormer Interior Frame
Standard Wndow Interior Window Frame
Window Plexi
Exterior Window Frame
Illustration #33
Illustration #34
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
H: Dormers, Shingles
Page 19
The Dormers:
Preview: In this section you will build and install the Dormers.
Dormer
Dormer Ceiling
Flush
o39. Glue and tape the Dormer Sides to the
Side
Dormer Ceiling, flush at the top edges.
(Illustration #35)
Illustration #35
Dormer
Side Pro Tip: Our Assembly Pro paints and installs
the Dormer Sides/Ceiling before shingling,
and pre-paints and installs the Dormer Roofs
after the shingling is complete.
o40. Glue and tape a Window Frame into
Illustration #36
the Dormer body. Glue the Dormers to the Front Roof lined up with the Dormer holes (Illustration #36). Check to make sure the Dormers are
Window Frame
straight up-and-down. Tape the Dormers to the Roof from the inside. 41. Glue the Dormer Roofs to the tops of the
Dormer Roof
Dormer bodies centered side-to-side (Illustration
#37).
Illustration #37
Shingle The Roof:
www.realgoodtoys.help has shingling demos
Glue: Use a thick solvent-based adhesive (notice flammability and ventilation warnings) available
Bead of adhesive
in a caulking gun tube at building supply stores.
Trim just a little of the end of the tube for a tiny
hole, to give a thin bead of glue. Always use good ventilation with solvent based adhesives.
o42. Apply a thin line of adhesive 1/8" below
Illustration #38
Overlap covers the squeezings
Flush
the lowest guideline all the way across one Side
Roof. Press the top edge of a Shingle into the
line of glue, squeezing out the excess. Hold the first Shingle steady and press another shingle
Flush One shingle length
into the adhesive, tight to the first. Hold the next
Shingle and press in another... etc. all the way
across the roof, cutting the last shingle to fit. Cut
angled Shingles for the corners before attach-
ing them. The first row of Shingles is tight to the bottom, the rest line up with the guidelines. Illustration #39
Finish each row (the sides first, then the front) before starting the next row.
o43. Continue up the roof one row at a time
1" between guidlines
Guideline 1"
around all the roofs. Start every other row with
1"
a half Shingle so that the seam between Shingles is staggered back and forth as you go up the roof.
1" Reveal
1"
Cut the Shingles for the top row so that each row will have the same reveal.
1" Reveal
Where two roofs meet, shingle the side roofs first 1" Reveal
Bead of adhesive
then the front roof.
1" Reveal
One shingle length
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
Finish the Outside
Illustration #40
3/8" Beads
7/8" Flutepost
Roof Top Cresting: 44. Lay out the Roof Top Cresting set.
Note from the Pro: Paint the Cresting, the Flutepost, and the Balls before assembly.
45. Assemble the Flutepost/Bead sets (Illustration #40).
77/8"
31/8"
31/4"
31/4"
31/8"
I: Gingerbread
Page 20
123/4" 113/16"
46. Without glue, set up the Cresting set with Posts at the corners. When the position is the way you like it, remove one piece at a time, and glue that piece on..etc.
47. Glue the Flower Boxes in place centered side-to-side below the Tower Windows (Illustration #41).
48. Install the Left Gingerbread (31/4" Side and 11/8" Front) with a 7/8" Trimpost and Bead (Illustration #42).
49. Glue the Front Step in place (Photo on pg. 1).
Illustration #41
Illustration #42 Left Gingerbread
Flower Box
Centered side-to-side
31/4" Side Gingerbread
11/8" Front Gingerbread 7/8" Trimpost and Bead
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr. Finish the Inside...Plan Ahead!
J: Interior
Interior finishing involves so many choices! Will this house be a
play-house or a display for miniatures? What accessories will be used and where will they go? Wiring? Wallpaper? Tile or carpet-
Top Stair Block
ing? Every choice makes a difference in the order of finishing.
Real Good Toys has provided materials for some basic interior
work, but you may choose to do it differently. Make your choices
Illustration #43
Get your materials
Test your layout
With the pieces in your hands, imagine the steps to get to where
you want to be.
Now you're ready for your order of interior finishing. Here's the order that our assembly pro follows for tackling most custom interior finishing:
Bottom Stair Block
· Dividers · Electrical wiring (using "tape" style wiring) · Ceilings · Flooring · Wallpaper · Interior Window Trim · Stairs · Baseboard and crown moldings
Stringer Pattern
Dividers are important supports for the floors and roof, but their position is flexible. Test your interior furnishings and install Dividers where they best serve your interior plan. Blind Dividers are optional separators front-to-back for the Tower Rooms. To install a Divider, spread glue on the edges, tip the Divider and put it almost all the way into the house, set the base and stand the Divider upright, slide it the rest of the way into position.
Stairs and Stringer: Line up the Stringer with the pattern, and mark the cut. Cut the Stringer with a fine toothed saw.
Glue the Bottom and Top Stair Blocks together (Illustration #43). Without glue, test the Stair assembly in the stair hole. The stairs are tight to the wall and the top tread is flush with the floor.
Wait to permanently install the stairs until flooring and wallpapering are done.
Glue the stair assembly in place. Let dry.
Glue the Stringer to the side of the Stair assembly for support.
Attic Divider
Page 21
Blind Divider
Cut Off
Divider
Adjust the fit of all the parts. Everything must be in place as the glue dries You have finished the Dollhouse Assembly part of your project...
ENJOY THE REST
Instructions for the Special Edition #SE-JM907 The Alison, Jr.
Options
Page 22
The JM907 Alison Jr. is shown above with the JM33 Addition
added to the left side (can also be added to the right side).
Options:
A wide variety of materials and accessories are available to help you achieve your dream house.
The following is a partial list of accessories available through your dealer from Real Good Toys.
J-FK Interior Finishing kit JM33 Victorian Style Junior Addition JM66 Junior Conservatory Addition Dye-1 Brown Shingle Dye Dye-3 Grey Shingle Dye SC Sheet Copper EL-66 EZ Punch and Electrification Helper Set (The EZ Punch piercing tool punches holes making nailing, screwing and setting electrical parts easier.)
Visit www.realgoodtoys.com for more wiring products and to download of the "Quickstart Guide" for dollhouse electrification.
The JM907 Alison Jr. is shown above with the JM66 Addition