Shop Dust Collection With Motorized Gates and Touchscreen Control

Step 1: Design Considerations

The gates do not require extremely tight tolerances; air pressure helps seal them when closed. Servos like the MG996R provide ample power, with most resistance coming from 3D-printed gears. Cleaning and sanding these gears can improve movement. The gates are designed to be unpowered when stationary to maintain their position, requiring minimal power to move. A 2A 5V power supply is sufficient if only one gate is powered at a time. The circuit supports up to 7 gates, utilizing an Arduino Nano with 7 unused pins after connecting the display and two for serial communication. The current sketch controls six gates. The touchscreen interface is flexible and allows for easy label changes.

Step 2: Gate Hardware

Begin by creating a jig for cutting the pipe hole. This involves cutting a 4-inch diameter circle in a thick piece of plywood and using a router with a fitting to ensure a precise hole for the 4-inch ID pipe.

[Image Description: A wooden jig with a 4-inch circle marked on it, a PVC pipe fitting placed on the circle, and clamps securing the jig to a workbench. This setup is for creating the gate housing.]

Cut two 3-inch sections of 4-inch ID pipe per gate. For the gate body, cut two 6x6 inch pieces from your chosen stock (laminated particleboard shelf is suggested). Ensure the material is thick enough for the pipe to sit well and provide a gluing surface. Mark the pipe hole, leaving at least 20mm clearance towards the opening and 40mm for the mechanism. The initial cuts may be oversized and trimmed later.

[Image Description: A piece of white material, likely laminate or HDPE, with a 4-inch circle drawn on it, positioned on a jig. This is part of the gate housing construction.]

Cut a circle slightly smaller than the mark using a jigsaw, starting with a drilled hole. Use the jig to guide a router to smooth the hole for a snug fit with the pipe. Minor imperfections in roundness are acceptable as long as the pipe fits. Glue the pipe segments into the material pieces, ensuring the pipe ends do not protrude and glue does not enter the gate's interior. Use a strong adhesive like 3M 4693, as wood glue will not bond to plastic pipe.

[Image Description: A jigsaw cutting a marked circle on a piece of wood clamped to a jig, demonstrating the initial cutting of the gate housing opening.]

[Image Description: A router smoothing the edges of a cut hole in material, guided by a jig, to create a precise opening for the PVC pipe.]

[Image Description: A clean, circular opening in material, ready to accept a PVC pipe, showing the result of the routing process.]

[Image Description: A 4-inch PVC pipe segment inserted into a prepared piece of material with a 4-inch hole, showing the initial assembly of the gate housing.]

[Image Description: Two pieces of material, each with a 4-inch hole, intended to form the sides of the gate housing.]

[Image Description: Cans of DAP Weldwood Contact Cement and 3M 4693 Industrial Plastic Adhesive, highlighting the recommended adhesives.]

[Image Description: A piece of white material with a 4-inch circle, clamped to a table saw sled, indicating another method for cutting housing components.]

[Image Description: Cans of 3M Super 77 Adhesive and another 3M adhesive product.]

[Image Description: Two partially assembled gate housings with PVC pipe segments glued in place and clamped, awaiting further assembly.]

[Image Description: Multiple gate housings clamped together, suggesting the curing process for the adhesive.]

[Image Description: A Black & Decker jigsaw cutting a hole in material, similar to the process shown earlier.]

For the moving gate, laminate or HDPE can be used. Once the gate thickness is determined, create spacers slightly thicker than the gate. Assemble the gate using strong glue and clamp until dry. Trim any excess material.

Step 3: Make the Gate Mechanism

The gate mechanism parts are 3D printed using PLA filament. Supports are included in the STL files. For a more secure motor connection, replace the stock servo connector with a JST-SM female connector.

Cut a 65mm piece of 5mm stainless steel rod for the axle, ensuring it protrudes slightly on both sides to secure the cover. The mechanism includes a frame, two gears, a rack gear, mounting blocks, and a cover. The servo mounts to the frame using M3 screws, washers, and nuts. The motor position may need adjustment for optimal gear meshing.

The gear ratio allows 155 degrees of servo rotation for approximately 4 inches of travel. One gear mounts on the servo, the other on the axle. Use the provided servo screws, cut to length, and drill holes in the gear for attachment to a servo mount. A 16mm M3 screw secures the assembly to the motor. The 5mm axle should fit snugly in all four holes (frame, gear, cover). A 5mm reamer drill bit helps achieve a tight fit. Ensure there is enough space for the axle gear to disengage the motor for adjustment. Electrical tape on the axle can help prevent slippage if holes are loose.

[Image Description: A collection of green 3D-printed parts for the gate mechanism, including the frame, gears, rack, servo mount, and cover, laid out with screws.]

[Image Description: A 3D printer in operation, printing a green gate mechanism component using PLA filament.]

[Image Description: Two JST-SM connectors, one disconnected, illustrating the connection method for servo motors.]

[Image Description: A detailed layout of all 3D-printed components for a single gate mechanism, including the servo motor, gears, rack, and mounting hardware.]

[Image Description: A close-up view of M3 screws used for assembling the mechanism.]

[Image Description: A 3D-printed gear held in a drill chuck, with a 5mm stainless steel rod nearby, showing preparation for axle mounting.]

[Image Description: A fully assembled gate mechanism with servo motor, gears, and rack, attached to a PVC pipe segment. Links to download STL files are provided.]

Step 4: Assemble the Gate

Mount the mechanism onto the gate using three 1/2 inch #6 screws, aligning the screw attachments with the gate body edge. The rack has a mounting extension with two M3 screw holes. A thicker spacer block goes between the rack extension and the gate, with a thinner spacer block on the other side. Drill holes through the gate to align with mounting holes, making them slightly oversized for position adjustment. Screws pass through the thinner spacer block, gate, and thicker spacer block into the rack extension. Ensure mounting screws do not protrude excessively above the rack extension.

For mounting the mechanism cover, slide the axle towards the motor until its other end is flush with the frame. The cover should snap into place, and the axle can then be pushed back to protrude through the cover's hole and lock. Remove the cover until the gate is adjusted.

Step 5: Make the Controller

This step involves significant soldering. A wiring test sketch is provided to verify circuit power. For better legibility, a larger board is used than what fits in the final controller box; the circuit needs to be condensed onto a 70x50 mm board. Insulated wrap wire is recommended for connections to avoid wire crossing issues.

The display connects via three cables (2, 5, and 6 connectors) and is mounted separately. Wires should be long enough for a 180-degree twist. Power cables connect via a JST-SM male connector. A standard 19x12 mm power switch is used, which may require trimming or shimming the housing hole.

[Image Description: A Fritzing software screenshot showing the breadboard view of the electronic circuit, illustrating wiring between the Arduino Nano, touchscreen display, and other components.]

[Image Description: A Fritzing software screenshot showing the PCB layout for the controller circuit. Links to download Fritzing project files are provided.]

[Image Description: The 3D-printed housing for the controller, including the base and cover, with internal struts and nuts for mounting electronics.]

[Image Description: The inside of the 3D-printed controller housing with the Arduino Nano microcontroller board and the ILI9488 touchscreen display mounted.]

[Image Description: Assembled electronics (Arduino Nano, display, wiring) fitted inside the 3D-printed controller housing. Links to download STL files for the housing are provided.]

The main challenge in writing a GUI on a small controller is limited memory. The provided code stores object information in program memory. The interface has six objects, each with a related struct. Buttons are positioned on the display, corresponding to control pins on the Arduino Nano. Changing labels requires modifying text length in the struct. The button is dimensioned with extra space for centering the label.

The sketch uses a 'clickable' object, accessing PROGMEM data. Example code shows button definition with fixed data (label, struct) in PROGMEM. Color pairs (BLUE/YELLOW for 'off', WHITE/RED for 'on') are used. The controller stores gate status in EEPROM, recalling the last state on power-on. While a motor is moving, the screen is unresponsive to input.

Step 6: Make and Assemble the Housing

The housing base is designed for wall mounting, and the cover houses the electronics, sliding onto the base. The cable opening on the base should face downwards.

The housing cover features six integrated M6 printed screws for mounting the controller and display. Ten M6 printed nuts, five thick struts (strut.stl), and one thin strut (strut2.stl) are required. Metal M6 nuts can be used, but non-conductive ones are preferred. If printing speed caused issues, clean the integrated M6 screws by carefully threading on a metal M6 nut.

Slide the display into its opening. Secure the housing components using the struts and nuts. Two thick struts go over the outer screws, tightened with four nuts. Two nuts are threaded into the middle screws. Two more thick struts cover the longer pairs of screws. Place the circuit board onto the struts, followed by the remaining two struts (one thick, one thin) over the board. Tighten with the remaining four M6 screws.

Step 7: The Control Sketch

The control sketch manages the system. Links to download the Arduino sketch files (.ino) are provided.

[Image Description: The completed controller unit with its touchscreen interface, displaying operational buttons for various workshop tools.]

Download Control Sketch (.ino)

Download Control Sketch (.cpp)

Download Control Sketch (.h)

Step 8: Assemble the System

Cut and connect piping according to your workshop layout, using 45 and 90-degree elbows, junctions, and connectors. Standard 4" OD dust fittings should fit the 4" ID sewer pipe. Most gates move horizontally, but some may operate at a 45-degree angle.

For gates near the controller, phone wire can be used. For longer runs, use thicker cable for motor power, as phone wire has high resistance. Phone wire is suitable for signal lines. JST-SM connectors are used throughout.

To calibrate a gate, disconnect the gear from the motor. Open the gate via the controller. Move the gate so its tip is just inside the pipe, then re-engage the axle gear with the motor. The gate should now open and close correctly. Finally, mount the cover.

[Image Description: A close-up view of a 3D-printed gate mechanism attached to a PVC pipe, showing the gears and servo motor in operation.]

[Image Description: A view looking into a PVC pipe fitting, revealing the internal gate mechanism.]

[Image Description: Another close-up of the gate mechanism, detailing the servo motor, gears, and their connection to the PVC pipe.]

[Image Description: A gate mechanism mounted on a PVC pipe, with a piece of particleboard forming part of the housing.]

[Image Description: A gate mechanism attached to a PVC pipe, with flexible dust collection ducting connected.]

[Image Description: A wide shot of the entire workshop dust collection system in operation, showing the dust collector, blower, ducting, and various machines connected via the motorized gates.]

[Image Description: A miter saw, one of the tools that would be connected to the automated dust collection system.]

The system connects to tools like a table saw via 4" flexible pipe. The dust collection bag is mounted above the blower to save space. The system includes the blower, fan on/off switch, controller, and dust collector. The setup allows for efficient airflow, significantly reducing dust from tools like the miter box.