Craftsman 113.24181 12-Inch Motorized Table Saw

Front Cover Information

Sears

owners manual

MODEL NO. 113.24181

CRAFTSMAN

12-INCH MOTORIZED TABLE SAW

• assembly
• operating
• repair parts

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

Part No. 62597

Full One Year Warranty

This warranty covers defects in material or workmanship for one year from the date of purchase. Sears will repair the table saw free of charge. Warranty service is available at any Sears store or Service Center across the United States. This warranty grants specific legal rights, which may vary by state.

General Safety Instructions for Power Tools

1. Know Your Power Tool: Read the manual carefully to understand its application, limitations, and specific hazards.
2. Ground All Tools: Ensure the tool is equipped with an approved 3-conductor cord and a 3-prong grounding plug. Never connect the green grounding wire to a live terminal.
3. Keep Guards in Place: Ensure all guards are in working order, properly adjusted, and aligned.
4. Remove Adjusting Keys and Wrenches: Develop the habit of checking for and removing all keys and wrenches before turning the tool on.
5. Keep Work Area Clean: Cluttered areas invite accidents. Keep the floor free from slippery substances like wax or sawdust.
6. Avoid Dangerous Environment: Do not use power tools in damp or wet locations or expose them to rain. Ensure the work area is well-lighted and provides adequate space.
7. Keep Children Away: All visitors should maintain a safe distance from the work area.
8. Make Workshop Kid-Proof: Secure the workshop with padlocks, master switches, or by removing starter keys.
9. Don't Force Tool: The tool performs best and safest at its designed rate.
10. Use Right Tool: Do not force the tool or an attachment to do a job it was not designed for.
11. Wear Proper Apparel: Avoid loose clothing, gloves, neckties, or jewelry that could get caught in moving parts. Wear nonslip footwear. Roll up long sleeves above the elbow and use hair covering for long hair.
12. Use Safety Goggles (Head Protection): Always wear safety goggles complying with ANSI Z87.1. Use a face or dust mask if the operation is dusty, and ear protectors for extended use.
13. Secure Work: Use clamps or a vise to hold workpieces when practical, freeing both hands to operate the tool.
14. Don't Overreach: Maintain proper footing and balance at all times.
15. Maintain Tools with Care: Keep tools sharp and clean for optimal performance. Follow instructions for lubrication and accessory changes.
16. Disconnect Tools: Disconnect tools before servicing or changing accessories like blades or cutters.
17. Avoid Accidental Starting: Ensure the switch is in the "OFF" position before plugging in.
18. Use Recommended Accessories: Consult the owner's manual for recommended accessories and follow their instructions, as improper accessories may cause hazards.
19. Never Stand on Tool: Serious injury can occur if the tool tips or the cutting tool is accidentally contacted. Do not store materials on the tool in a way that requires standing on it.
20. Check Damaged Parts: Before further use, carefully check any damaged guards or parts to ensure proper operation. Check for alignment, binding, breakage, and mounting conditions. Repair or replace damaged parts.
21. Direction of Feed: Feed work into a blade or cutter only against the direction of rotation.
22. Never Leave Tool Running Unattended: Turn off the power and wait for the cutting tool to come to a complete stop before leaving.

Additional Safety Instructions for Table Saws

WARNING: DO NOT OPERATE THE SAW UNTIL IT IS COMPLETELY ASSEMBLED AND INSTALLED ACCORDING TO INSTRUCTIONS, AND YOU HAVE READ AND UNDERSTOOD THE FOLLOWING:

1. General Safety Instructions for Power Tools: Refer to page 2.
2. Getting to Know Your Saw: Refer to page 14.
3. Basic Saw Operation: Refer to page 17.
4. Adjustments: Refer to page 23.
5. Maintenance: Refer to page 26.
6. Stability of Saw: If the saw tends to tip or move during cutting operations (e.g., large panels), bolt it down. If using table extensions over 24 inches wide, ensure they are supported by a sturdy brace attached to the saw base or bench.
7. Location: Position the saw so neither the operator nor observers are in line with the saw blade.
8. Kickbacks: A kickback occurs when a workpiece binds, rises from the table, and is thrown toward the operator. Keep your face and body to the side of the saw blade. Kickbacks can usually be avoided by:
   • Maintaining the rip fence parallel to the saw blade.
   • Keeping the saw blade sharp and replacing anti-kickback pawls when dull.
   • Ensuring the blade guard, spreader, and anti-kickback pawls are in place and functioning.
   • Not ripping twisted, warped, or uneven-edged workpieces.
   • Not releasing the workpiece until it has passed the saw blade.
   • Using a push stick for ripping widths of 2-6 inches, and an auxiliary fence/push block for widths less than 2 inches.
   • Not confining the cut-off piece during ripping or cross-cutting.
   • Applying feed force to the workpiece section between the saw blade and the rip fence when ripping.
9. Protection: Eyes, Hands, Face, Ears, Body:
   • If any part of the saw is malfunctioning or broken (motor switch, controls, safety device, power cord), cease operation immediately until repaired or replaced.
   • Wear safety goggles (ANSI Z87.1 compliant) and a face shield if the operation is dusty. Use ear protectors for extended operation.
10. General Precautions:
    • Small loose pieces of wood contacting the rear of the blade can be thrown at high speed. Keep guards and spreaders in place and remove loose pieces from the table with a long stick.
    • Use extra caution when the guard assembly is removed for resawing, dadoing, rabbeting, or molding; replace it immediately after the operation.
    • Never turn the saw ON before clearing the table of all tools and scraps, except the workpiece and necessary feed/support devices.
    • Never place your face or body in line with the cutting tool.
    • Never place fingers or hands in the path of the saw blade or cutting tool.
    • Never reach behind the cutting tool to support the workpiece or remove scraps. Avoid awkward hand positions that could lead to slips.
    • Do not perform operations "FREEHAND"; always use the rip fence or miter gauge for positioning and guidance.
    • Never use the rip fence for crosscutting or the miter gauge for ripping. Do not use the rip fence as a length stop.
    • Do not touch the "free end" of a workpiece or a "free piece" while the power is ON or the blade is rotating.
    • Shut OFF the saw and disconnect the power cord when removing the table insert, changing the cutting tool, removing/replacing the blade guard, or making adjustments.
    • Provide adequate support for wide or long workpieces to the rear and sides of the table.
    • Plastic and composition materials may be cut, but their hardness and slipperiness may prevent anti-kickback pawls from stopping a kickback. Follow ripping procedures carefully and do not stand in line with a potential kickback.
    • If the sawblade stalls or jams, turn OFF the saw, remove the workpiece, and check blade alignment with table slots/grooves and spreader alignment. If ripping, check rip fence parallelism to the sawblade and readjust as needed.
11. Know Your Cutting Tools: Dull, gummy, or improperly sharpened tools can cause binding, stalling, or kickbacks. Minimize injury through proper tool and machine maintenance. Never attempt to free a stalled saw blade without first turning the saw OFF.

Motor Specifications and Electrical Requirements

The AC motor is a capacitor start, non-reversible type with the following specifications:

• Voltage: 240
• Amperes: 7
• Hertz: 60
• Phase: Single
• RPM: 3450
• Rotation (viewed from sawblade end): Counterclockwise

Motor Safety Protection: The motor is equipped with a manual-reset thermal overload protector that opens the power line circuit when the motor temperature exceeds a safe value.

Overload Protector (Red Button): If the overload protector trips, turn the switch OFF immediately and allow the motor to cool before resetting. Never turn the saw ON until the protector is reset.

Fuse/Circuit Breaker Capacity: Frequent opening of fuses or circuit breakers may indicate an overloaded motor or undersized circuit protection. Consult the power company if fuse capacity needs to be increased.

Voltage Tolerance: The motor operates safely on voltages within 10% above or below the nameplate voltage for normal loads. Heavy loads require voltage at the motor terminals to be not less than the nameplate voltage.

Motor Troubles: Most motor troubles are due to loose connections, overloading, or reduced input voltage (from long or undersized supply circuits). Check wire sizes and lengths. Replace worn or damaged power cords immediately.

Connecting to Power Source Outlet

WARNING: This saw must be grounded for electrical shock protection. If the power cord is damaged, have it replaced immediately.

CAUTION: This saw is wired for 240 volts only. Connect to a 15-ampere branch circuit protected by a 15-ampere time delay or circuit saver fuse or circuit breaker.

WARNING: Do not touch plug terminals when installing or removing from a live power source. Hold the plug as shown.

Diagram Description: An illustration shows a hand holding a plug, with the grounding blade being the longest of the three. It also shows a grounded outlet box and notes that no adapter is available for this type of plug.

WARNING: Improper grounding can lead to electrical shock, especially in damp locations or near plumbing. A shock hazard could also arise from hands contacting the sawblade.

The tool uses a 3-conductor cord with a grounding prong. Use only 3-wire extension cords with 3-prong grounding plugs and receptacles.

Diagram Description: A table lists extension cord lengths and recommended wire sizes (AWG). It also shows a wiring diagram with connections to the motor, ground, and switch.

WARNING: If unsure about outlet grounding, have it checked by a qualified electrician.

Unpacking and Checking Contents

Tools Needed: Hammer, Medium Screwdriver, Small Screwdriver, Pliers, Wrenches (3/8 in., 7/16 in., 1/2 in., 9/16 in., 3/4 in.), Combination Square.

The Model 113.24181 Motorized Table Saw is shipped complete in one carton, including two table extensions and steel legs.

Separate all parts from packing materials and check each item against the illustration and the list of loose parts. If any parts are missing, do not attempt assembly, plug in the power cord, or turn the switch on until missing parts are obtained and installed correctly.

Remove protective oil from the table top and edges using household grease and spot remover. CAUTION: Never use gasoline, naphtha, or similar volatile solvents. Apply automobile wax to the table. Wipe all parts with a clean, dry cloth.

WARNING: NEVER CONNECT THE PLUG TO THE POWER SOURCE OUTLET UNTIL ALL ASSEMBLY STEPS ARE COMPLETE AND SAFETY/OPERATIONAL INSTRUCTIONS ARE READ AND UNDERSTOOD.

Diagram Description: An illustration shows the tools needed and a detailed diagram of the table saw parts with corresponding key numbers and names.

List of Loose Parts

Assembly

Attaching Legs

Diagram Description: An illustration shows the saw turned upside down, with legs and stiffeners being attached using screws and nuts. It highlights where to use inner and outer holes for side and end stiffeners.

1. Turn the saw upside down, placing it on wood scraps or packing material to avoid scratching the table surface.
2. Gather the required hardware: 16 Hex Head Screws (5/16-18 x 5/8 in.), 16 Hex Nuts (5/16-18), 16 Hex Head Screws (1/4-20 x 1/2 in.), 16 Hex Nuts (1/4-20), 8 Hex Nuts (1/2-13), 4 Leveling Feet, 16 Lockwashers (1/4 in. External), and 16 Lockwashers (5/16 in. External).
3. Attach side stiffeners using the outer holes and end stiffeners using the inner holes.
4. Insert screws through legs and stiffeners, then install lockwashers and nuts. Do not tighten fully yet.
5. After all screws, washers, and nuts are installed, tighten all nuts.
6. Install the leveling feet.
7. Place the saw in an upright position.

Note: Before proceeding, check the Table Insert and Blade Squareness.

Checking Table Insert

Diagram Description: An illustration shows a hand inserting a finger into the table insert slot to remove it, and another showing how to check if the insert is flush with the table top.

1. Insert a finger into the table-insert slot and pull upward to remove the insert.
2. Replace the insert. If clips do not hold securely, remove the insert and bend the clips.
3. Ensure the insert is flush with the table top. Adjust the four setscrews as necessary.

Checking Blade Squareness to Table

Diagram Description: An illustration shows how to check if the blade is square to the table using a combination square, ensuring the square does not touch the tip of the tooth.

1. Loosen the ELEVATION LOCK by pulling the knob forward.
2. Turn the ELEVATION crank clockwise until the blade is at its highest position.
3. IMPORTANT: The blade must be SQUARE (90°) to the TABLE to properly align the rip fence.
4. Check for blade squareness. If the blade is not square, adjust it now. Refer to the "Blade Tilt, or Squareness of Blade to Table" adjustment section on page 24.

Attaching Table Extensions

Diagram Description: An illustration shows the process of attaching table extensions using screws, lockwashers, and nuts, and how to align and secure them.

1. Gather hardware: 8 Hex Head Screws (5/16-18 x 1-1/4 in.), 8 Lockwashers (5/16 in. External), and 8 Hex Nuts (5/16-18).
2. Insert screws through the extension holes and then through the table. Install lockwashers and nuts, but do not tighten fully.
3. Align the front edge of the extension with the front edge of the saw table.
4. Pull the extension upwards slightly above the table surface and lightly tighten the screws using a 1/2 in. wrench.
5. Using a small block of hardwood and a hammer, tap the extension downwards at the front, center, and rear until it is even with the table surface. Then, tighten all screws.

Installing Rip Fence Guide Bars

Diagram Description: Illustrations show laying the rear fence guide bar as a straightedge, attaching the front and rear guide bars to the table using screws and nuts, and inserting the guide bar rod.

1. Gather hardware: 2 Hex Head Screws (5/16-18 x 1-1/2 in.), 2 Hex Head Screws (5/16-18 x 7/8 in.), 4 Hex Nuts (5/16-18), 4 External Lockwashers (5/16 in.), 2 Spacers (3/4 in. dia. x 1/2 in. long), and 2 Self-threading nuts.
2. Lay the guide bars on the table. The holes allow repositioning and adaptation to other models.
3. Insert a 1-1/2 in. screw through the first hole from the left in the front bar, and another 1-1/2 in. screw through the large hole in the switch bracket and then the sixth hole in the bar. Hold them in place with tape.
4. Place spacers on the screws.
5. Insert bolts through the middle and right side holes of the front saw table, installing lockwashers and nuts. Do not screw nuts all the way.
6. Remove the 3 screws from the rear of the table extension.
7. Insert 7/8 in. long screws in the first and third holes of the rear bar and attach to the table.
8. Insert the ends of the FENCE GUIDE BAR ROD through the round holes at the outer ends of the bars. The self-threading nuts will cut threads on the rod.
9. Hold the rod with one hand and use a 7/16 in. wrench or pliers to start screwing on one nut, then the other. Tighten both nuts with two 7/16 in. wrenches or pliers.
10. Slide the bars so screws are in the middle of the slotted holes.
11. Position the rip fence over the miter gauge groove, holding up the rear end while engaging the front end with the bar, then lower the fence onto the table.
12. Raise the blade all the way up.
13. Carefully move the fence against the blade.
14. Move the front bar until the "0" mark on the rip scale is approximately at the tip of the pointer.
15. Move the front bar upwards until the fence is approximately 1/32 in. above the table. Tighten the screw at the left end of the bar.
16. Note: Fold a piece of newspaper (8 thicknesses) and place it between the rip fence and table as a spacer to hold the fence off the table by approximately 1/32 in.
17. Adjust the rear bar so the fence is approximately 1/32 in. above the table and square with the fence guide bar rod. Tighten the screw at the end of the bar.
18. Replace the screws in the rear table extension, ensuring the top surface of the extension is parallel to the top surface of the rear guide bar.
19. Move the fence to the right edge of the table, ensuring it is approximately 1/32 in. above the table at the front and rear, and tighten the screws.

Aligning Rip Fence

The fence should slide easily and remain parallel to the saw blade and miter gauge grooves. Alignment is maintained by a spring underneath the fence bearing against the front guide bar.

To move the fence, loosen the lock handle and grasp the fence at the front. For fine adjustments, grasp the guide bar with both hands and move the fence with your thumbs.

Diagram Description: Illustrations show how to move the fence, check its spring-back action, and adjust the spring pressure.

1. Place the fence on the saw but do not lock it.
2. Slightly move the rear end of the fence to the right or left. If it springs back to its original position, the spring pressure is correct.
3. If it does not spring back, the spring pressure must be INCREASED:
   • Loosen the screws.
   • Move the spring slightly toward the front of the fence.
4. If the fence does not slide easily, the spring pressure can be REDUCED:
   • Loosen the screws.
   • Move the spring slightly toward the rear of the fence and tighten screws.
5. The rip fence must be PARALLEL with the saw blade and miter gauge grooves. Move the fence until it is parallel to the groove. If not parallel:
   • Loosen the two "Hex. Head Screws."
   • Hold the fence head tightly against the bar and move the end of the fence to align it parallel with the groove.
   • Alternately tighten the screws.

Adjusting Rip Scale Pointer

Diagram Description: An illustration shows how to position the fence against the blade, align the "0" mark on the rip scale with the pointer, and tighten the screw. It also shows how to loosen screws to move the front guide bar if the pointer cannot be adjusted to "0".

1. Turn the ELEVATION crank clockwise until the blade is fully raised.
2. IMPORTANT: The blade must be SQUARE (90°) to the TABLE to align the rip fence.
3. Position the fence on the right side of the saw blade so it touches the sides of the teeth, then tighten the lock knob.
4. Loosen the screw holding the pointer, adjust the pointer to indicate "0", and tighten the screw.
5. Note: If the pointer cannot be adjusted to "0", loosen the screws holding the front guide bar and move the guide bar.

Installing Blade Guard

Diagram Description: Illustrations show attaching the spreader to the spreader support, sliding the support onto the rod, and ensuring the blade guard is properly aligned and secured.

1. Find the necessary hardware.
2. Attach the SPREADER to the SPREADER SUPPORT, ensuring screws are fully back in the slots. Hand-tighten screws.
3. Slide the support onto the SUPPORT ROD until the pin in the rod fits into the notch in the support. Insert and tighten the THUMB SCREW.
4. Loosen the setscrew in the end of the SPREADER BAR using a 5/32 in. setscrew wrench.
5. Slide the guard to the right until the end of the rod is even with the bar.
6. Ensure the blade is square to the table and raised as high as possible.

IMPORTANT: The SPREADER must always be PARALLEL to the saw blade and in the MIDDLE of the cut (KERF). The spreader is thinner than the KERF by approximately sixteen thicknesses of paper.

Diagram Description: A diagram illustrates the concept of the spreader being thinner than the kerf, using paper thicknesses as a reference.

1. Fold a piece of ordinary newspaper seven times (making eight thicknesses) to use as a "spacing gauge".
2. Place the RIP FENCE on the table and carefully move it against the blade so it is parallel and just touches the tips of the saw teeth. Tighten the RIP FENCE LOCK KNOB.
3. Lift both ANTI-KICKBACK PAWLS and insert a SETSCREW WRENCH into the notches to hold them up.
4. Insert the folded paper between the SPREADER and FENCE. Hold the spreader flat against the fence and tighten the screws.
5. Tighten the setscrew in the end of the spreader bar.
6. To remove the blade guard, loosen the thumb screw and slide the guard off the SUPPORT ROD.
7. Note: Move the fence away from the spreader to check if the spreader remains square with the table. If not, adjust the SPREADER BAR:
   • Loosen 2 clamping screws with a 1/2 in. wrench.
   • Rotate the bar until the spreader is square with the table.
   • Check alignment of the spreader with the blade and readjust if necessary.

Getting to Know Your Saw

Diagram Description: A comprehensive diagram labels the main parts of the table saw: 1. ON-OFF SWITCH, 2. ELEVATION CRANK, 3. ELEVATION LOCK HANDLE, 4. TILT CRANK, 5. TILT LOCK KNOB, 6. RIP FENCE, 7. MITER GAUGE, 8. BLADE GUARD, 9. TABLE INSERT, 10. SAWBLADE, 11. EXACT-I-CUT.

1. ON-OFF SWITCH

CAUTION: Ensure the blade guard is correctly installed and operating before turning the switch on.

The ON-OFF Switch has a locking feature to prevent unauthorized or hazardous use by children and others.

To turn the saw ON: Stand to the side of the blade, not in line with it. Insert a finger under the switch lever and pull the end of the lever out. Allow the blade to reach full speed before cutting. Avoid cycling the motor switch rapidly, as this may loosen the saw blade. If this occurs, stop the saw, retighten the arbor nut, and do not leave the saw ON unattended.

To turn the saw OFF: Push the lever in. Do not leave the saw until the cutting tool has stopped completely.

To lock the switch in OFF position: Hold the switch IN with one hand and REMOVE the key with the other.

WARNING: For your safety, lower the blade or cutting tool below the table surface. If the blade is tilted, return it to the vertical (90°) position. ALWAYS LOCK THE SWITCH "OFF" WHEN THE SAW IS NOT IN USE. REMOVE AND KEEP THE KEY IN A SAFE PLACE. In case of a power failure, turn the switch OFF, lock it, and remove the key to prevent the saw from starting automatically when power is restored.

Diagram Description: Illustrations show how to operate the ON-OFF switch, including locking it with the key.

2. ELEVATION CRANK

Turns clockwise to elevate the blade and counterclockwise to lower it.

3. ELEVATION LOCK

Locks the blade at the desired height. Push to lock, pull to unlock.

4. TILT CRANK

Tilts the blade for bevel cutting. Turns clockwise to tilt left and counterclockwise to tilt right. When tilted 45° left, the bevel pointer should indicate 45°. Limit stops prevent tilting beyond 45° left and 90° right.

5. TILT LOCK KNOB

Locks the blade in the desired tilt position. Turn left to unlock, right to lock.

6. RIP FENCE

Locked by tightening the lock handle. Loosen the handle to move the fence. Holes are provided for attaching a wood facing for dado or molding heads. Attach a 3/4 in. thick wood facing using three #10 wood screws (2 in. long). To remove, loosen screws, slide facing forward, and pull screws through round holes.

Diagram Description: Illustrations show how to attach a wood facing to the rip fence and how to use the miter gauge with an auxiliary facing for crosscutting.

7. MITER GAUGE

Head is locked for crosscutting or mitering by tightening the lock handle. Always lock it securely when in use. Two holes for the stop pin allow setting the miter gauge for 45° cuts. The graduations are precise, but trial cuts may be needed for extreme accuracy. The miter gauge head can be swiveled slightly to compensate for inaccuracy. Holes are provided for attaching an auxiliary facing to cut long pieces.

Diagram Description: Illustrations show the miter gauge, how to lock it, and how to attach an auxiliary facing.

8. BLADE GUARD

Must be in place and working for all "thru-sawing" cuts. To remove for special operations, loosen the thumbscrew and slide off the rod. Do not disturb the rod's setting. Ensure the guard's pin engages the spreader support notch when reinstalling.

9. TABLE INSERT

Removable for changing blades or cutting tools.

Using the Miter Gauge

Crosscutting

Crosscutting involves cutting wood across the grain at 90° to the edge and flat side, using the miter gauge set at "0". Graduations provide accuracy for average woodworking. For extreme accuracy, make trial cuts and recheck with a square or protractor. The miter gauge head can be swiveled slightly for compensation. Favor one side of the table groove for maximum accuracy. Gluing sandpaper to the miter gauge head can prevent workpiece "creeping". A Hold-Down Clamp (optional) improves accuracy.

Diagram Description: Illustrations show crosscutting with the miter gauge, how to use it in either groove, and how to support long workpieces with an auxiliary fence.

Repetitive Cutting

Repetitive cutting involves cutting multiple pieces of the same length without marking each piece. Use Stop Rods (optional) for duplicate pieces 6 inches or longer. Do not feed the workpiece with your right hand; merely guide it, ensuring it doesn't bind the saw blade. Support long workpieces and use the Auxiliary Fence/Work Support for additional stability.

Diagram Description: An illustration shows repetitive cutting using stop rods and auxiliary fence/work support.

Miter Cutting

Miter cutting is cutting wood at an angle other than 90° to the edge. Follow crosscutting procedures. Adjust the miter gauge to the desired angle and lock it. Use the miter gauge in either groove. Hold the workpiece firmly against the miter gauge head. Use the Hold-Down Clamp (optional) for better accuracy.

Bevel Crosscutting

Bevel crosscutting is like crosscutting but also at an angle other than 90° to the flat side of the wood. Adjust the blade to the desired angle. Use the miter gauge in the groove to the right of the blade (the left groove is obstructed by the blade guard). Hold the workpiece and lock handle. Use the Auxiliary Fence/Work Support for additional support.

Compound Miter Cutting

This is a combination of miter cutting and bevel crosscutting, cutting at an angle other than 90° to both the edge and flat side of the wood. Adjust the miter gauge and blade to the desired angle and ensure the miter gauge is locked.

Using the Rip Fence

Ripping, bevel ripping, resawing, and rabbeting are performed using the RIP FENCE, often with the AUXILIARY FENCE/WORK SUPPORT, PUSH STICK, or PUSH BLOCK.

WARNING: Always observe safety precautions. Never make cuts freehand; the blade could bind, causing kickback. Always lock the rip fence securely. Remove the miter gauge. Ensure the blade guard is installed for "thru-sawing" cuts. Frequently check anti-kickback pawls; they must grip the workpiece. Have the blade extend approximately 1/8 inch above the workpiece. Do not stand directly in front of the blade in case of kickback; stand to the side. Keep hands clear of the blade's path. If the blade stalls, turn the switch OFF. Do not reach over or behind the blade for any reason. Do not pick up small cut-off pieces with your hands; push them off the table with a stick. Do not remove trapped cut-off material from the blade guard while the saw is running. Turn the saw OFF and lift the guard to remove pieces.

Diagram Description: An illustration shows supporting long workpieces.

Ripping

Ripping is cutting wood with the grain (lengthwise) using the rip fence. Position the fence to the desired width and lock it. Ensure the rip fence is parallel to the saw blade, the spreader is aligned, and anti-kickback pawls are functioning. Always use a work support for long boards or large panels.

Bevel Ripping

For bevel ripping material 6 inches or narrower, use the fence on the right side of the blade ONLY to allow space for a push stick. If the fence is on the left, the guard may interfere.

Diagram Description: Illustrations show using the push stick for ripping widths of 2-6 inches, and using the auxiliary fence/work support and push block for narrower rips. It also shows how to carefully raise the guard for ripping narrow strips.

When "WIDTH OF RIP" is 6 inches or wider, use your RIGHT hand to feed the workpiece. Use your LEFT hand ONLY to guide the workpiece.

When "WIDTH OF RIP" is 2 to 6 inches, use the PUSH STICK.

When "WIDTH OF RIP" is narrower than 2 inches, the push stick cannot be used due to guard interference. Use the AUXILIARY FENCE/WORK SUPPORT and PUSH BLOCK. Attach the auxiliary fence to the rip fence with "C" clamps. Feed the workpiece by hand until about 1 inch from the table edge, then continue feeding with the PUSH BLOCK.

Resawing

Resawing is ripping a piece of wood through its thickness. For wood wider than 3-9/16 inches, remove the blade guard and use the AUXILIARY FENCE/WORK SUPPORT. Do not resaw bowed or warped material. Clamp it securely so it slides easily but does not tilt or move sideways. Do not clamp directly to the table edge; use a small block of wood. WARNING: DO NOT "BACK UP" (REVERSE FEEDING) DURING RESAWING, AS THIS CAN CAUSE KICKBACK. INSTALL THE BLADE GUARD IMMEDIATELY AFTER RESAWING.

Diagram Description: An illustration shows resawing with a clamp and a small block of wood.

Cutting Panels

When cutting panels with the fence positioned outside the table surface, ALWAYS use the AUXILIARY FENCE/WORK SUPPORT. Unlock the fence, raise the rear end, position the auxiliary fence, and attach it with two "C" clamps.

Diagram Description: An illustration shows cutting panels using the auxiliary fence/work support.

Rabbeting

Rabbeting involves cutting a section out of the corner of a piece of material, requiring two cuts that do not go all the way through. The blade guard must be removed. 1. Remove blade guard. 2. Adjust rip fence and blade to required dimensions. 3. Make the first cut through the edge, following the resawing procedure. 4. Remove the auxiliary fence and make the second cut. 5. INSTALL THE BLADE GUARD IMMEDIATELY AFTER COMPLETION OF RABBETING OPERATION. Rabbet cuts can also be made using a dado head or molding head.

Diagram Description: A diagram illustrates what a rabbet cut is.

Adjustments

WARNING: Turn switch "OFF" and remove plug from power source outlet before making any adjustments.

Miter Gauge

Diagram Description: Illustrations show the miter gauge assembly, its parts, and how to adjust the head for squareness and pointer alignment.

The holes for the stop pin and graduations are manufactured to close tolerances for accuracy. The miter gauge head can be swiveled slightly for compensation.

1. Loosen the "handle" and pull the "stop pin" out.
2. Swivel the head to the "0" position, push the stop pin IN, and lock the handle.
3. The HEAD should be square with the BAR, and the pointer should indicate "0". Readjust the pointer if necessary.
4. If the head is not square, loosen the "handle" (1) and "two screws" (2). Position the HEAD square with the BAR using a combination square. Push the STOP PIN into the "0" hole and twist to lock. Recheck with the square. If still not square, loosen screws (2) and readjust the INDICATOR BLOCK.
5. With the head square and pin in the "0" hole, adjust the pointer (3) to "0".
6. The miter gauge head should rest on the bar without moving up or down, yet swivel freely. The swiveling movement can be adjusted by tightening or loosening the setscrew (4) using a 1/8 in. setscrew wrench. (The setscrew is inside the head; access it by swiveling the head to 60° and turning the gauge upside down.)

Heeling Adjustment or Parallelism of Sawblade to Miter Gauge Groove

For accurate cuts, the material must move parallel to the saw blade, meaning the miter gauge groove and rip fence must both be parallel to the saw blade. If the saw blade is not parallel to the miter gauge groove, it can bind at one end of the cut (known as "heeling").

To check for parallelism:

WARNING: Turn switch "OFF" and remove plug from power source outlet.

1. Raise the blade all the way up and raise the blade guard.
2. Mark an "x" on a tooth that is set (bent) to the LEFT.
3. Place a combination square head in the GROOVE and adjust its blade to just touch the tip of the marked tooth.
4. Move the square to the REAR, rotate the blade, and see if the marked tooth again touches the square's blade.
5. If the tooth touches the square the same amount at the FRONT and REAR, the saw blade is PARALLEL to the MITER GAUGE GROOVE.

If the tooth does not touch the same amount, the mechanism underneath must be adjusted to make the blade PARALLEL to the GROOVE.

Diagram Description: Illustrations show checking blade parallelism to the miter gauge groove and the process of adjusting it by loosening screws and moving parts.

Note: Ensure the TILT CLAMP KNOB is tightened.

1. Lay the saw on its LEFT SIDE.
2. Loosen Hex. Head screw "A" 1/4 to 1/2 turn using a 5/8 in. socket wrench with an extension.
3. Tilt blade to 45° and loosen screw "B".
4. Place saw upright, tilt blade to 90°.
5. Remove blade, lower motor completely.
6. Reach inside the insert opening and loosen screws "C" and "D" 1/4 to 1/2 turn using a 5/8 in. wrench.
7. Replace saw blade and raise it fully.
8. Grasp the spreader bar at the rear and move it sideways, rechecking blade alignment with the square.
9. When the blade is PARALLEL to the groove, tighten screws "C" and "D".
10. Lay the saw on its LEFT SIDE and tighten screws "A" and "B".

Blade Tilt, or Squareness of Blade to Table

When the bevel pointer indicates "0" on the bevel scale, the saw blade should make a SQUARE (90°) cut to the table.

To check for SQUARENESS:

WARNING: Turn switch "OFF" and remove plug from power source outlet.

1. Raise blade fully UP and raise blade guard.
2. Tilt blade slightly LEFT, then tilt back RIGHT as far as possible.
3. Place an ACCURATE square against the blade, ensuring it does not touch the TIP of any saw TEETH.

If the blade IS SQUARE to the table:

A. Check pointer. If it does not point to "0" on the bevel scale, loosen the screw and adjust the pointer using a medium screwdriver.

If the blade is NOT SQUARE to the table, the 90° stop screw must be ADJUSTED.

1. Unscrew the 90° STOP SCREW three or four turns using a 3/16 in. setscrew wrench.
2. Tilt blade until it is square with the table.
3. Screw the 90° stop screw IN until it stops. Check for squareness and readjust the screw if necessary.
4. Check the POINTER and readjust if necessary.
5. Tilt blade to 45° and adjust the 45° STOP SCREW similarly.

Diagram Description: Illustrations show checking blade squareness to the table and adjusting the 90° and 45° stop screws.

Elevation Lock

When properly adjusted, the elevation mechanism locks securely when the ELEVATION LOCK KNOB is about one inch from the front of the saw. If the lock slips due to wear on the ELEVATION LOCK SCREW and NUT:

1. Tilt blade to 45°.
2. Remove retaining screw using a 3/8 in. wrench.
3. Move the LOCK WRENCH in the direction of the arrow (to tighten the LOCK NUT) just enough to place the retaining screw in the next hole.
4. If the retaining screw is in the last hole, lift the LOCK WRENCH off the LOCK NUT and reposition it by rotating it CLOCKWISE.

Diagram Description: An illustration shows the components of the elevation lock mechanism.

Maintenance

WARNING: Turn switch "OFF" and remove plug from power source outlet before maintaining or lubricating.

Do not allow sawdust to accumulate inside the saw. Frequently blow out dust from the cabinet and motor. Clean cutting tools with Craftsman Gum and Pitch Remover. Apply automobile wax to the table for a cleaner surface and easier workpiece sliding. Treat unplated/unpainted steel parts with Sears "Stop Rust." Replace worn or damaged power cords immediately.

Sharpening Anti-Kickback Pawls:

1. Remove blade guard.
2. Rotate pawl toward the rear of the spreader so teeth are above the spreader top.
3. Hold spreader with left hand, place pawl over a workbench corner.
4. Use a small round file (Smooth Cut) to sharpen the teeth.

Diagram Description: An illustration shows how to sharpen the anti-kickback pawls.

Lubrication

The saw motor bearings are factory-packed and require no additional lubrication. Lay the saw on its LEFT SIDE. Clean BEVEL GEARS, ELEVATION WORM AND TEETH, and TILT WORM AND TEETH with Craftsman Gum and Pitch Remover. Lubricate these parts and other indicated bearing points with SAE No. 20 or No. 30 engine oil. Periodically oil bearing points in the guard assembly, miter gauge, and rip fence with SAE No. 20 or No. 30 engine oil.

Diagram Description: Illustrations indicate lubrication points on the saw's gears, worm mechanisms, guard, fence, and miter gauge.

Recommended Accessories

Note: In Canada, see your local Simpsons-Sears store or catalog for accessory selection and numbers.

Note: Accessories listed were current and available at the time this manual was printed.

Troubleshooting

Trouble Shooting -- General

Trouble Shooting -- Motor

Note: Motors on woodworking tools are susceptible to sawdust accumulation and require frequent cleaning for proper ventilation.

Parts List

Diagram Description: Figure 1 shows an exploded view of the table saw assembly with numbered parts. Figure 2 shows an exploded view of various sub-assemblies like the motor, trunnions, and elevation mechanisms. Subsequent figures detail the fence assembly, motor assembly, switch assembly, miter gauge assembly, guard assembly, and table extension.

Note: Always order by Part Number, not Key Number.

Figure 1 Parts List

*Standard Hardware Item - May be Purchased Locally.

Service and How to Order Repair Parts

Should a need arise for repair parts or service for your 12-inch table saw, contact any Sears Service Center or most Sears, Roebuck and Co. stores. Provide all pertinent facts when calling or visiting.

The model number (113.24181) is located on a plate attached to the saw's base.

When ordering repair parts, always provide the following information:

• PART NUMBER
• PART DESCRIPTION
• MODEL NUMBER: 113.24181
• NAME OF ITEM: 12-INCH TABLE SAW

All listed parts may be ordered from any Sears Service Center and most Sears stores. If parts are not stocked locally, your order will be electronically transmitted to a Sears Repair Parts Distribution Center.

Sold by SEARS, ROEBUCK AND CO., Chicago, IL. 60684 U.S.A.

Form No. SP4148-4

Printed in U.S.A. 4/77