Instruction Manual for nootka saunas models including: Barrel Sauna, Barrel, Sauna

Barrel Sauna Electrical Wiring Instructions & Specifications

Manuals and – Nootka Saunas


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nootka.electrical-April25 ?v=1745512351
barrel sauna heater setup instructions
ATTENTION:
All electrical wiring for the sauna must be completed by a certified electrician. Where any Nootka Saunas' instructions and the heater manufacturer's instructions contradict each other, defer to the manufacturer's instructions. As per CSA C22.2 No.164-2018, section 1.2 and section 8.1.3, "factory built sauna rooms where the necessary wiring and heater installation is done in the field", require the heater assembly to carry a CSA C22.2 N0.164-2018, but the room itself is exempt from the directive. The homecraft Heaters that are included with all Nootka Sauna kits carry this label. Having trouble? For questions, comments, or concerns, please reach out to hello@nootkasaunas.ca

01 PART 1: ELECTRICAL TO THE REAR WALL OF THE SAUNA APPROX. TIME REQUIRED: DEPENDS ON SITE SETUP*
*Note to Electrician: Please let the client know the estimated cost for the scope of work included in Part 1 and Part 2*
PARTS REQUIRED (NOT INCLUDED WITH SAUNA)
1. BREAKER (approximate cost: <$100) The breaker requiring for your sauna depends on the size of heater you ordered. 8ft sauna (6'5" room + porch): Standard 9kW Homecraft heater, required 50A NON GFI Breaker
or optional: 7.5kW Homecraft heater, requiring 40A NON GFI Breaker 10ft sauna (8'6" room + porch) 9kW Homecraft heater, requiring 50A NON GFI Breaker
2. WATERPROOF DISCONNECT (approximate cost <$50) Most jurisdictions require a disconnect that is visible and within a certain distance of the sauna. A simple weatherproof, pull bar disconnect is typically suitable. Some electricians will mount these on the rear of the sauna, whereas others will mount the disconnect on a house or nearby structure.
3. WIRING AND FITTINGS (approximate cost: $20/meter + fittings and connectors) From your breaker box to the back of the sauna, Electricians will typically run a 8-2 TECK cable (or equivalent AWCU), as this is armoured and rated for outdoor environments. Most jurisdictions require it to be trenched. For installations under covered areas, provided it's up to code for the area, electricians will sometimes run cable inside of PVC or metal conduit.
The Electrician will also need to run the wiring and supply the materials to run power from the 884 PVC junction box that's mounted on the rear of the sauna to the disconnect.
NOTE ON TRENCHING YOUR ARMOURED CABLE. Most jurisdictions require the armoured cable to be trenched. Several customers choose to dig their own trench or have a landscaper dig the trench. In this case, it's highly recommended that you consult your Electrician first to ensure that your trench is up to code and that a sensible path for the trench is chosen.
ALWAYS CALL BEFORE YOU DIG! Never start digging without first calling your local authorities to ensure there are no gas lines, electrical cables, data lines or other such hazards on your property. This can be a very costly and even dangerous mistake to make.
Provided below are useful resources for who to call before you start digging in Canada: British Columbia: https://www.bc1c.ca/ Alberta: https://www.albertaonecall.com/ Manitoba: https://www.clickbeforeyoudigmb.com/ Ontario: https://www.ontarioonecall.ca/ Yukon: https://yukonenergy.ca/health-safety/electrical-safety/call-before-you-dig Quebec: https://www.info-ex.com/en/ USA: https://call811.com/

PART 2: WIRING THE SAUNA HEATER APPROX. TIME REQUIRED: 2 HOURS* *Note to Electrician: Please tell the client if you're not able to complete this work in the estimated time. All electrical components required for the below section should be supplied by the sauna*
included parts list

Junction Box for Rear Wall with TECK connector
installed with 18-4 Cable

18-2 Cable with Temp. sensor wire and cover 22ft

TECK Cable 8-2 (connecting the heater and
junction box) 3ft

20pcs

TECK Connector

Display Control Panel

Electrical Panel Cover

Cable Staples

Sensor Cover Kit

02

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electric heater layout

4. rear

interior wiring runs through

the two drilled holes under the bench and is secured with

1.

brackets along the exterior wall

(step 4 demonstrates exterior view)

2.

5.

3.

Homecraft Heater

(supplied by Nootka Saunas)

2 Gang Box for display panel
(supplied by Nootka Saunas)

1. 18/4 Control/Voltage Wire
Runs from the 884 junction box on the rear exterior wall, through the rear wall, under the benches into the front wall 2 gang box
2. Inbound Power
40A 240V for 8ft sauna (7.5kW) 50A 240V for 10ft sauna (9kW) NON-GFI circuit required
3. 1 meter 8/2 TECK cable + TECK connectors
To be run between heater and 884 Junction Box by the electrician (supplied by Nootka Saunas)
4. 18/2 Temp. Sensor Wire
Temperature probe is mounted on rear wall of the sauna above the heater. Wiring runs along the back wall then into the sauna, then continues next to the 18/4 cable under the bench and into the front wall 2 gang box (supplied by Nootka Saunas)
5. Junction Box
To be mounted by electrician to exterior wall (supplied by Nootka Saunas)

front
5. 1. 3. 2.
exterior rear view

1 mount the temperature sensor

Approximately 2" down from the ceiling on the rear wall (above the heater), there is pre-drilled hole. Feed the 18/2 wire with the soldered temperature sensor through the hole from the INSIDE of the sauna to the EXTERIOR of the sauna. Mount the temperature sensor to the rear wall with one screw (leave about 1/8" play between the screw and the temperature sensor).
Run both wires under the benches to connect with the 2-gang box.
2 mount temperature sensor guard

temp. sensor

interior

exterior

section view of rear wall

There should be at least 1/8" play between the screw and the temperature sensor

sensor guard
(peel off plastic)

IMPORTANT Ensure the air vent hole behind the heater remains open Ensure rocks are loosely packed allowing gaps for heat to escape Do NOT fully tighten the temp. sensor against the wall. Allow air to pass sensor on both side of it's resting position. Mount temp. sensor directly above the heater 2" from the ceiling.

temp. sensor

interior

exterior

section view of rear wall

3 clean up the 18/4 and 18/2 wiring

Using the supplied cable staples, discretely run the two cables under the benches, securing them with cable staples.

rear
NOTE: There will be extra length to the wiring, either trim off the excess length.

front

section view of the under bench cables 04

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4 clean up exterior wires
Secure the cabling to the circumference of the sauna's rear wall with the supplied cable staples.

wiring runs along the exterior wall with brackets spaced evenly

*enter under bench
elevation view of rear wall
5 temperature sensor guard

First strip, then feed the 18/4 wire through the 2-gang box on this front wall, between two bench slats and then under the bench (this will get stapled in step 3). Run the remaining part of the wire out of the bottom hole from step 1.
Strip and carefully connect both the 18/2 and the 18/4 cables to the front display panel. The 18/2 conductors connect to the sensor port (bipolar)
Two of the 18/4 conductors (usually red/ black) connect to the 24VAC ports on the controller (bipolar). The remaining two (usually white/grey) conductors on the 18/4 cable connect to the control port. Secure the nylon cable gland that both the 18/2 and 18/4 wires run through.

Probe Probe 14 VAC 24 VAC Control Control
exterior view of the front wall control panel

6 wooden electrical panel cover
Mount the supplied, wooden electrical panel cover to hide the 2-gang box from the inside of the sauna. Use two wood screws to secure the cover to the wall.

interior view of wooden cover

7 wire the TECK cable to the heater

Remove the heater from the rear wall of the sauna (loft it up ans it will slide off the two hooks it sits on. Flip the heater upside down and remove the 4x self-tapping screws from the bottom of the heater.
Use the center rear knockout and mount the supplied TECK connector. Then feed in one end of the supplied 18/2 TECK cable and secure the L1, L2, and GND wires. Use the supplied marrettes for the L1 and L2 connectors and for the GND, use the welded lug.

IMPORTANT

MAKE SURE THE MARRETTE CONNECTIONS FOR L1 AND L2 ARE VERY SECURE WHILE

rear

ENSURING THAT THE WIRES AREN'T

TOUCHING THE WALLS OF THE ENCLOSURE

WHEN YOU CLOSE THE BOX BACK UP.

Flip the heater to be right-side-up and feed the TECK cable through the hole on the center of the back of the wall through to the exterior.

front

bottom view of heater

MOUNTING ELECTRIC HEATER
IF THE HEATER HAS NOT BEEN MOUNTED PRIOR TO ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION/WIRING, IT WILL HAVE TO BE MOUNTED BY THE ELECTRICIAN.
To mount your stove, fasten the two wall-mount brackets (taped to the stove for shipping) to the back wall of the sauna. The stove will slit into these. To determine the exact positioning for the brackets, position the stove such that the circular punch out on the bottom rear of the stove lines up with the upper hole on the back wall of the sauna. Use a level in the basket of the stove to ensure the stove is level before marking the bracket positioning with a pencil. NOTE: Due to slight variations in the stoves and saunas, we recommend following the above method for positioning the brackets; however, they are generally screwed into the back wall approximately 23 3/4" above the floor and 10 3/8" apart. NOTE: The barrel sauna design, including the above-mentioned heater positioning has been approved by the Homecraft Heaters under their CSA certification (see final page of this package).
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8 mount the junction box to rear wall

Ensure that all existing wiring is tight before closing the junction box.

TKE2-2 1-PHASE
50 amps resistive per pole
24VAC coil VOLT 208/240 POLES 2 open type

inside view of junction box

9 mount heater guard and add rocks

When installing the rocks, place the first layer scattered over the screen leaving approximately 50% of the screen exposed. Place each additional layer of rocks across the gaps so there will be good airflow. Stack the rocks loose and high NOT tight and low.
We send you more rocks than needed, please do not overload the screen. Keep in mind bad rock placement is the number one cause for the heater to malfunction.
Note: Rinse the rocks with water before installing onto the heater screen.

view of layered rock placement

IMPORTANT
BEFORE LEAVING THE SITE, THE ELECTRICIAN SHOULD RUN THE HEATER FOR A FULL CYCLE TO ENSURE THE SAUNA IS FUNCTIONING AS IT PROPERLY SHOULD.
- Once turned on, the unit should reach temperature (90C) within 15-20 minutes. - Once the room reaches temperature, the heater should naturally cycle off for a few minutes - After a few minutes the heater will cycle back on
This cycle allows the heater to keep the sauna hot, without over-heating the heater components. If the unit doesn't reach temperature in the expected time, or if the heater "trips" (shuts off and won't turn back on), see the troubleshooting instructions below.

troubleshooting checklist
Troubleshooting must be completed by a certified electrician and in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

INITIAL CHECKS
Is the incoming power actually 240VAC? We've seen issues before where only ~190V is coming in (one of the legs is compromised) and this ends up giving enough power to sometimes show life on the front control power but not enough power to pull in the contractor).

Is the power leaving the transformer in the rear wall junction box 23VAC?
(use a multimeter to check)

Check that all the 18AWG wires in the rear wall terminal block are secured. Also check that the 18AWG wires in the front control panel are connected and secure.

TROUBLESHOOTING CHECKLIST

1

Do you see numbers/display on the front wall control panel?

YES: MOVE TO 2

NO: 24VAC isn't getting to the controller. Check the incoming power and make sure the 24VAC labeled 18AWG wires are properly seated/connected into the display and into the terminal blocks on the back wall junction box. Also, ensure that the low voltage wiring hasn't been punctured or damaged during the sauna assembly. For example, a screw through the 18/4 wire will short circuit the output side of the transformer.

2

When you hit ON, does the display show a temperature read out? (the current ambient temperature)

YES: MOVE TO 3

NO: It reads OPEN. The temperature sensor wires are disconnected (either where they go into the front wall display panel, or near the ceiling above the heater where they are soldered to the thermistor that's mounted to the wall. Check both for good connection.

3
3. When you hit ON/OFF do you hear a dull thud from the back wall junction box?

YES: MOVE TO 4

NO: The contractor isn't getting pulled in. It's very unlikely to have a faulty contractor, more likely that the "control wires" that go back to the contractor from the display control panel are not connected well or are damaged. With a multimeter, check the control wires at various points all the way back to the contractor to see if you're getting 24VAC.

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4
Is there any heat being produced in the sauna after a minute?

YES:

NO: a) The heater wiring might be loose or not connected properly. Dismount the heater

THAT'S GREAT! guard, remove the rocks and flip over the heater to inspect the wiring and ensure a

YOU'RE GOOD

good connection between L1, L2 and GND.

TO GO

b) When your sauna heater is overworked the high-limit switch will automatically

shut the heater down as a safety measure.

On the bottom of every Homecraft Sauna heater you will find CSA approved sticker with our heater information. In the very middle of the aluminum sticker is a hole where the high limit switch is located.

Steps to reset the heater:

1. Insert a safe (wooden) object 2. You should hear the sounds 3. Go to your control panel and

in the hole and push to re- of the switch re-engaging

turn the sauna heater on once

engage the high limit

again

Over-heating at the base will most commonly be caused by the following reasons:

1. There needs to be two un- 2. Remove a few rocks to allow 3. Ensure the temp. sensor is

blocked vent holes on the rear more air flow through the

mounted in the correct place,

wall near the base of the heater system

max 2" from the ceiling

If the high limit switch continues to trip in your sauna, then there is most likely an issue with your installation. Please advise us at orders@nootkasaunas.com and we will help determine the source of the problem.

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still have questions
call: +1 (778) 652-3569 email: hello@nootkasaunas.com



References

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