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KENMORE 385.15202400 SERVICE MANUAL

Model: 385.15208400
Date: October, 2003

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Contents

This manual covers the following sections:

  1. Locate and Identify the Parts
  2. Wind the Bobbin
  3. Prepare Your Top Thread
  4. Stitch Selector / Stitch Length/Stitch Width Controls
  5. What to Do When
  6. Service Access (Face Cover, Front Cover, Rear Cover)
  7. Mechanical Adjustment (Top Tension, Bobbin Tension, Presser Bar Height Alignment, Needle Swing, Needle Drop, Clearance Between Needle and Hook (No.1), Clearance Between Needle and Hook (No.2), Feed Dog Height, Needle Bar Height, Needle Timing to Shuttle, Buttonhole Feed Balance, Bartack Feed of Buttonhole, Disengagement of Cam Follower, Motor Belt Tension)
  8. Wiring
  9. Oiling
  10. Special Tools Required

1. Locate and Identify the Parts

The sewing machine has various components labeled for identification. Key parts include:

  • Top Section: Bobbin Winder Thread guide, Spool Pins, Bobbin Winding Spindle, Bobbin Winding Stopper, Thread Guide, Thread Take-up Lever, Top Thread Tension Control, Face Plate, Thread Cutter.
  • Front/Base Section: Stitch Width Dial, Stitch Length Dial, Pattern Selector Dial, Reverse Stitch Button, Extension Table (Accessory storage box), Carrying Handle, Presser Foot Holder, Needle Clamp, Needle, Presser Foot, Presser Foot Lifter, Free Arm.
  • Base/Side Section: Handwheel, Power Switch, Machine Socket.

A diagram shows these parts labeled on the sewing machine body and its base.

2. Wind the Bobbin

Follow these steps to wind a bobbin:

  1. Pull the handwheel outwards.
  2. Draw thread from the spool through the bobbin winding tension discs (A).
  3. Pull the end of the thread through the bobbin as shown.
  4. Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winding spindle (B) with the thread end coming from the top of the bobbin.
  5. Push the bobbin winding spindle to the right until it clicks.
  6. Holding the end of the thread, start the machine. When the bobbin is slightly filled, snip off the thread end.
  7. Wind thread until the bobbin stops. Remove the bobbin.
  8. Push the handwheel to the left.

Accompanying diagrams illustrate the bobbin winding spindle mechanism and the process of inserting and locking the bobbin case into the shuttle.

3. Prepare Your Top Thread

Follow these numbered steps for threading the top thread:

  1. Raise the take-up lever to its highest position by turning the handwheel towards you.
  2. Raise the presser foot lever.
  3. Place the spool on the pin with the thread coming from the back of the spool.
  4. Draw thread through the thread guide.
  5. Holding the thread taut with your right hand, draw the thread down into the tension area and then around the check spring holder.
  6. Firmly draw the thread up and through the take-up lever from right to left.
  7. Draw the thread down and slip it into the lower thread guide.
  8. Draw the thread down again and slip it into the needle bar thread guide.
  9. Thread the needle from front to back.

Note: Cutting the end of the thread with sharp scissors can make needle threading easier.

Diagrams show the path of the thread with numbered steps and dotted lines indicating the thread's movement.

4. Stitch Selector / Stitch Length/Stitch Width Controls

This section describes the controls for selecting stitch patterns, length, and width.

  • Pattern Selector: A dial with settings for various stitch patterns, including 'BH' (Buttonhole) and numbered patterns 1 through 9.
  • Stitch Length Control: A dial with settings from 0 to 4, with markings indicating different stitch lengths.
  • Stitch Width Control: A dial with settings from 0 to 5, controlling the width of zigzag stitches.

Diagrams illustrate these control panels and the resulting stitch types for different settings.

5. What to Do When

This table provides solutions for common sewing issues:

CONDITIONCAUSEHOW TO FIXREFERENCE
1. Skipping Stitches1. Needle is not inserted properly.Insert the needle properly.
2. Needle is bent or worn.Change the needle.
3. Incorrectly threaded.Rethread.
4. Needle or thread are inappropriate for fabric being sewn.Use the recommended sewing needle and thread.
5. Sewing on stretch fabric.Use a #11 blue tip needle.
6. Inappropriate needle bar height.See Mechanical Adjustment "Needle Bar Height".P.19
7. Inappropriate needle to hook timing.See Mechanical Adjustment "Needle Timing to Shuttle".P.20
8. Inappropriate needle to hook clearance.See Mechanical Adjustment "Clearance Between Needle and Hook".P.16,17
2. Fabric Not Moving1. Incorrect F.D. (Feed Dog) height.See Mechanical Adjustment "Feed Dog Height".P.18
2. Thread on bottom side of fabric is jammed up.Make sure to bring both needle and bobbin thread under the foot when starting sewing.
3. Feed dog teeth are worn.Change the feed dog.
3. Breaking Upper Thread1. Initial sewing speed is too fast.Start with medium speed.
2. Thread path is incorrect.Use the proper thread path.
3. Needle is bent or dull.Replace with a new needle.
4. Upper thread tension is too strong.Adjust upper thread tension correctly.P.11
5. Needle size is inappropriate for fabric.Use appropriate needle and thread for fabric in use.
6. Needle eye is worn.Change the needle.
7. Needle hole in needle plate is worn or burred.Repair the hole or replace the needle plate.
4. Breaking Bobbin Thread1. Incorrectly threaded bobbin case.Thread bobbin case correctly.
2. Too much thread is around on the bobbin.Adjust the position of stopper.
3. Lint is stuck inside the bobbin holder.Clean the hook race.
4. Thread quality is too low.Change to a high quality sewing thread.
5. Thread is jamming around the bobbin.Clear out the jamming thread.
6. Bobbin thread tension is too strong.Adjust bobbin thread tension correctly.P.12
5. Needle Breaks1. Needle is hitting the needle plate.See Mechanical Adjustment "Needle Drop".P.15
2. Needle is bent or worn.Change the needle.
3. Needle is hitting the hook race.See Mechanical Adjustment "Clearance Between Needle and Hook".P.16, 17
4. The fabric moves while the needle is piercing it, or the needle zigzags while in fabric.See Mechanical Adjustment "Needle Swing".P.14
5. Fabric is being pulled too strongly while sewing.Guide the fabric gently while sewing.
6. Noisy Operation1. Backlash between shuttle hook gear and lower shaft gear is too great.See Mechanical Adjustment "Clearance Between Needle and Hook (No.2)".P.17
2. Lower shaft gear is loose.Eliminate the looseness.
3. Inappropriate belt tension.See Mechanical Adjustment "Motor Belt Tension".P.24
4. Upper shaft gear is loose.Eliminate the looseness.
5. Not enough oil.Oil all moving parts.
7. Deformation Pattern1. Inappropriate zigzag synchronization.See Mechanical Adjustment "Needle Swing".P.14
2. Inappropriate disengagement of cam follower.See Mechanical Adjustment "Disengagement of Cam Follower".P.23
3. Upper thread tension is too strong.Adjust upper thread tension correctly.P.11

6. Service Access

Face Cover

To remove the face cover:

  1. Open the face cover (A).
  2. Remove the screws (B).
  3. Take the face cover (A) off.

A diagram shows the face cover with screws labeled.

Front Cover

To remove the front cover:

  1. Loosen the set screws (A), (B), and (C).
  2. Remove the front cover by removing the set screws (D), (E), (F), (G), (H), (I), and (J).
  3. Note: Unhook the tab (L) from the rear cover when removing the front cover.

To attach:

  1. Follow the above procedure in reverse.

Diagrams illustrate the front cover and its various attachment points and screws.

Rear Cover

To remove the rear cover:

  1. Remove the face cover and front cover (See pages 8, 9).
  2. Loosen the setscrews (A), (B), and (C), and remove setscrews (D), (E), and (F).
  3. Pull up the spool pins. Remove the machine socket. Remove the rear cover clearing the presser foot lifter from the slit on the cover.

To attach:

  1. Follow the above procedure in reverse.

Diagrams illustrate the rear cover and its attachment points and screws.

7. Mechanical Adjustment

Top Tension

To Check: The standard upper thread tension should be 65-95g when pulling the thread (cotton thread #50) in direction (B) with the tension dial set at "3". Ensure the presser foot is lowered.

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Remove the front cover unit (See page 9).
  2. Turn the adjusting nut (C) in direction (D) if the upper thread tension is too tight.
  3. Turn the adjusting nut (C) in direction (E) if the upper thread tension is too loose.
  4. Attach the front cover unit.

Diagrams show the tension unit with adjustment nut (C) and directions (D) and (E).

Bobbin Tension

To Check: Set the bobbin in the bobbin case and pass the thread (cotton #50) through the tension spring. The bobbin thread tension should be 45-55g when pulling the thread in direction (B). If the tension is out of range, adjust as follows:

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Turn the adjusting screw (C) in direction (D) when the bobbin thread tension is too tight.
  2. Turn the adjusting screw (C) in direction (E) when the bobbin thread tension is too loose.

Diagrams illustrate the bobbin case, tension spring, and adjusting screw (C) with directions (D) and (E).

Presser Bar Height and Alignment

To Check:

  1. Raise the presser foot lever (A).
  2. The distance between the presser foot (D) and the needle plate (E) should be 6.0mm (0.24").

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Remove the screw (B) and take the lamp socket off.
  2. Raise the presser foot lever and loosen the screw (C) on the presser bar holder.
  3. Adjust the distance between the presser foot (D) and the needle plate (E) to 6.0mm (0.24").
  4. Tighten the screw (C) securely.
  5. Tighten the screw (B) to secure the lamp socket.

Note: When tightening screw (B), ensure both sides of the presser foot are parallel to the feed dog slots (F) on the needle plate.

Diagrams show the presser bar assembly, needle plate, and dimensions.

Needle Swing

To Check: Adjust needle swing if the needle bar moves sideways while sewing a zigzag pattern at maximum width.

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Set the pattern selector dial to maximum zigzag width and remove the front cover (See page 9).
  2. Loosen two set screws.
  3. Turn the handwheel while holding the worm to prevent rotation, until the needle swing starts at 2-3mm on the needle plate after the needle exits the right side of the needle hole.
  4. Tighten the two set screws.
  5. Mount the front cover.

Note: After adjustment, check that the upper shaft worm and gear rotate smoothly without backlash.

Diagrams illustrate the upper shaft worm, gear, and set screws.

Needle Drop

To Check: When the needle swings in maximum zigzag width, the distance between the ends of the needle hole on the needle plate and the needle drop positions should be equal. If not, make an adjustment.

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Open the face plate.
  2. Set the pattern selector dial at maximum zigzag width.
  3. Loosen the set screw.
  4. Turn the eccentric pin to adjust the needle drop.
  5. Tighten the set screw.

Note: Check hook timing after this adjustment.

Diagrams show the needle bar mechanism with set screw and eccentric pin, and indicate equal clearance.

Clearance Between Needle and Hook (No.1)

To Check: The clearance between the needle and shuttle race should be -0.05-+0.10mm. If not, make an adjustment.

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Open the face cover.
  2. Set the pattern select dial to "C i 3" and the width selector dial to "0".
  3. Loosen set screw (A) and move the needle bar supporter to arrows to get clearance between -0.05 to +0.10mm.
    • If clearance is too wide, move the needle bar supporter in direction (B).
    • If clearance is too narrow, move the needle bar supporter in direction (C).

Note: After this adjustment, check if the clearance between needle and needle plate is more than 0.15mm (Figure D). If not, adjust clearance between needle and shuttle race using Method No.2 on page 13, after readjusting needle and needle plate clearance to over 0.15mm.

Diagrams show the needle bar supporter, set screw (A), directions (B) and (C), and Figure D showing needle plate clearance.

Clearance Between Needle and Hook (No.2)

To Check: Use this adjustment when No.1 cannot be used. The clearance between needle and shuttle race should be -0.05 - +0.10mm.

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Set the pattern selector dial at "C i D" and the width selector dial at "0".
  2. Remove the rear cover (See page 10).
  3. Loosen screw (A) on the lower shaft bushing and slide the gear about 0.5mm to the right to create slack between gears.
  4. Lower the needle and loosen the two shuttle race set screws (B). Move the shuttle race unit axially forward or backward to adjust clearance between the needle and shuttle race to -0.05 - +0.10mm.
  5. Set the pattern select dial to "_", turn the balance wheel to check if clearance between the needle and inner edges of the shuttle race spring at left and right needle drops are equal. If not, adjust by turning the shuttle race unit.
  6. Tighten the two shuttle race set screws (B).
  7. Loosen set screw on lower shaft bushing and slide the gear back to the original position while adjusting backlash.
  8. Tighten screw (A) firmly.
  9. Attach the rear cover.

Note: Backlash play should be less than 0.3mm and the lower shaft should turn smoothly. Check hook timing after adjustment.

Diagrams illustrate the shuttle race, set screws (B), lower shaft bushing, and clearance measurement.

Feed Dog Height

Machine Setting: Stitch Length: Set at 4. Needle Bar: At its highest position.

To Check:

  1. Raise the presser foot.
  2. Place the feed dog height gauge #68367 (A) on the needle plate.
  3. Turn the handwheel towards you by hand and check the feed dog height. Refer to the chart below.

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Open the shuttle cover.
  2. Loosen screw (B) and turn the eccentric pin (C) in either direction to adjust feed dog height as required.
  3. Tighten screw (B) securely.
FACE (A)GAUGFACE (B) (RED)EFEED DOG HEIGHT
1.25MM1.00MMMOVINGCORRECT
NOT MOVINGNOT MOVINGLOW
MOVINGMOVINGHIGH

Diagrams show the feed dog height gauge and the adjustment mechanism with screw (B) and eccentric pin (C).

Needle Bar Height

Machine Setting: Stitch Selector: "C i Z)". Width Selector Dial: Set at 5.

To Check:

  1. Open the shuttle cover.
  2. Replace the needle with the test pin #68368 (A).
  3. Remove the shuttle hook and insert the radial timing gauge #68366 (B) onto the shuttle driver.
  4. Turn the handwheel towards you by hand until the needle bar reaches its lowest position.
  5. The tip of the test pin #68368 (A) should be between the two horizontal lines engraved on the radial timing gauge #68366 (B).

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Loosen screw (C) of the needle bar holder (D).
  2. Move the needle bar (E) up or down by hand until the tip of the test pin #68368 (A) comes between the two horizontal parallel lines engraved on the radial timing gauge #68366 (B).
  3. Tighten screw (C) securely.

Diagrams illustrate the test pin (A), radial timing gauge (B), and the adjustment mechanism with screw (C), needle bar holder (D), and needle bar (E).

Needle Timing to Shuttle

Machine Setting: Stitch Selector: "C i D". Width Selector Dial: Set at 5.

To Check:

  1. Open the shuttle cover.
  2. Replace the needle with the test pin #68368 (A).
  3. Remove the shuttle hook and insert the radial timing gauge #68366 (B) onto the shuttle driver.
  4. Turn the handwheel towards you by hand until the needle bar reaches its lowest position.
  5. The tip of the test pin #68368 (A) should be between the two vertical lines engraved on the radial timing gauge #68366 (B).

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Remove the belt cover and the front cover.
  2. Loosen the screws (C) and (D).
  3. Rotate the shuttle driver until the tip of the test pin #68368 (A) comes between the two vertical lines engraved on the radial timing gauge #68366 (B).
  4. Tighten the screws (C) and (D) securely.
  5. Attach the front cover, the base plate, and the belt cover.

Diagrams show the radial timing gauge (B), test pin (A), and screws (C) and (D).

Buttonhole Feed Balance

To Check: When sewing a buttonhole, the stitches on each side should have the same stitch density. A range of 9-12 stitches in the right side row ("backward feeding") against 10 stitches in the left side row ("forward feeding") is considered acceptable.

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Confirm stitches by sewing buttonholes, and remove the cap.
  2. Turn the adjusting screw in direction (C) for case (A) (right stitches rough), or in direction (D) for case (B) (left stitches rough).
  3. Mount the cap.

Diagrams show stitch density patterns (A and B) and the adjusting screw with directions (C) and (D).

Bartack Feed of Buttonhole

To Check: If the material feeds forward or backward when sewing a bartack on a buttonhole, make an adjustment.

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Set the pattern selector control at " _ " and the stitch length control at "4".
  2. Remove the front cover (See page 9).
  3. Place a piece of paper under the foot and turn the handwheel.
    • If the paper feeds forward, turn the adjusting screw in direction (C).
    • If the paper feeds backward, turn the adjusting screw in direction (D).
  4. Mount the front cover.

Diagrams show feed direction and the adjusting screw with directions (C) and (D).

Disengagement of Cam Follower

To Check: Too narrow clearance between the cam follower and the top convex of the zigzag cam can cause difficulty in turning the pattern selector dial or incorrect patterns.

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Set the pattern selector dial to " i " and the stitch width to "5".
  2. Remove the front cover (See page 9).
  3. Put the cam follower to the zigzag cam (straight cam), and also put the cam follower releasing arm to the pattern select cam.
  4. Loosen the setscrew.
  5. Move the adjusting plate in the direction of the arrow until it touches the releasing arm and tighten the setscrew.

Note: After adjustment, check that the clearance between the zigzag cam and the cam follower is 0.3mm when putting the cam follower releasing arm onto position (A) of the pattern select cam.

  1. Attach the front cover.

Diagrams show the zigzag cam, pattern selector cam, adjusting plate, release arm, and setscrew(A), with a 0.3mm clearance indication.

Motor Belt Tension

To Check:

  1. Incorrect motor belt tension can cause belt noise. Too tight tension can cause slow running and motor overload. Too loose tension can cause belt teeth to jump on the motor pulley.
  2. Correct tension has a motor belt deflection of about 7mm (0.28") - 9mm (0.36") when pushed with a 300-gram load.

Adjustment Procedure:

  1. Remove the rear cover (See page 10).
  2. Loosen the screws (A) and (B).
  3. Move the motor up or down to adjust the deflection to about 7mm (0.28") - 9mm (0.36").
  4. Tighten the screws (A) and (B).

Diagrams show the motor, pulley, belt, and the deflection measurement with a 300g load indication.

8. Wiring

This section provides wiring information for the sewing machine.

Wiring for Machine Socket Unit

A diagram shows the wiring connections for the machine socket unit, indicating terminals for M (Motor) and L (Lamp).

Wiring Diagram

A schematic diagram illustrates the wiring connections for the foot control, motor attachment cap, lamp socket, and motor.

9. Oiling

Factory-lubricated parts provide years of service. However, check for lubrication needs when the machine is serviced.

  • Oil: Use good quality sewing machine oil at points (A, B, C, D, E) indicated by black arrows in the diagrams.
  • Grease: White grease is recommended for gears and cam surfaces. It can also be used on metal and plastic parts indicated by white arrows (F, G, & H).

How to Order:

PARTS NO.DESCRIPTIONPRICE
EM/40MSEWING MACHINE OIL
WHITE GREASE

Order through your RPDC in the usual manner; Division 20, Source 158.

Diagrams show points for oiling (black arrows) and greasing (white arrows).

10. Special Tools Required

The following special tools may be required for servicing:

  • Slotted Screw Driver
  • Philips Screw Driver
  • Alien Wrench
  • Feed Dog Height Gauge #68367
  • Test Pin #68368
  • Radial Timing Gauge #68366

Illustrations of each tool are provided.

Models: 385.15202400, 385.15208400, 385.15202400 Sewing Machine, 385.15202400, Sewing Machine, Machine

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References

pdftk 1.44 - www tk.com itext-paulo-155 (itextpdf.sf.net-lowagie.com)

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