Instruction Manual for BRAEMEREMODELS models including: 1 32 Broughan Silage Grain Trailer, Broughan Silage Grain Trailer, Silage Grain Trailer, Grain Trailer, Trailer
1:32 Broughan 24ft Tri Axle Grain/Silage Trailer Model Kit – braemeremodels
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DocumentDocument1:32 Broughan Grain/ Silage CLEAN ALL RESIN PARTS IN WARM SOAPY WATER Trailer--This manual is for tandem and tri axle trailers The silicone release agent used in the cas ng process will react with paint, it must be thoroughly cleaned off before pain ng. This is a guide to using the kit. Care should be taken at each stage to make sure the model is going together correctly and any altera ons that are not in the instruc ons should be carried out. Glue: Recommended glue is a good quality super glue such as Gorilla Super Glue. I use the Blue Lid Gorilla Super Glue which is readily available from most hardware stores including B&Q and Screwfix. It provides a strong bond, the acrylic around the bond will snap before the bond breaks. Paint: The instruc ons will suggest the best point to paint components. A good quality automo ve primer or plas c primer followed by automo ve acrylic is recommended. Brands such as Hycote or Halfords are likely to be problem free and provide a good finish to your model while being readily available. Read all the instruc ons before building to avoid any unexpected suprises Step 1: To start with I recommend cleaning the resin parts (wheels and tyres) in a strong washing up liquid solu on. Remove any flash from the resin parts too, this is excess resin le over from the cas ng process where resin is poured into the mould. Then remove the plas c backing from all acrylic parts and sand back the surface with a fine grit sand paper 220 grit or less. The laser cu ng process causes a slight raised edge on most parts that will inhibit strong adhesion. By sanding these edges off a stronger glued bond can be made and the surface of the plas c is improved for paint adhesion. Sharp edges can give a thin paint applica on that shows as white edges in the final paint. Not KTwo parts pictured, sorry! It is important to take care when sanding as Acrylic is a bri le material and can easily snap. If something does break simply line up the crack lines and glue back together, leave 24hrs before using the part again so the glue can set firmly. The same applies to any resin parts. Step 2: Glue the two halves of the chassis rails together. 16 to 19 aligning the pivot hole at the rear and the dropped mount in the middle. Take care if using superglue, the bond will be almost instant so make sure they are aligned as you glue. Ensure you glue them opposite sides to make the offside and nearside chassis rail Step 3: Glue the front members of the chassis to one side member. 18 glues into the recess at the front of the chassis. 17 then glues to the front of 18 as illustrated. Step 4: Bring the two chassis rails together by gluing the front member to the second rail while also gluing 21 in the central cross member (aligns with the slot) and 27 to the rear member (sits in recess behind recovery eye). Note in the tri axle version there are two part 21's to glue into the chassis between each set of suspension. 5mm Step 5: Assemble the pping member by gluing 2x 22 onto 20 as illustrated. The two 22 should sit 5mm apart and central on the 20 beam. Step 6: Glue the pping member into the slot in the middle of the chassis. Ensure that the single hole is towards the rear and the line of four holes are towards the rear. Step 7: Glue the rear light bracket 28 into the slot in the chassis rear with the light details facing the rear and the reflec ve triangles poin ng to the top of the trailer. Glue the 2mm plas c bar into it curved slot on the chassis. If fi ng the tow bar then glue in place now, it a aches to the rear member and round bar. Step 8: Build the drawbar. 2x 23 glue back to back. There are then 2 tow eye op ons (24) to glue in the front recess depending on the tractor you wish to hitch too. Step 9: Fit the drawbar. Loose fit the axles and wheels to the chassis. Select the tractor you wish to hook the trailer too. Place the drawbar eye on the tractor hitch, posi on the drawbar in the trailer as shown and glue a pin in the appropriate hole on the drawbar hanger. This will allow the trailer to sit correctly on the tractor. Step 10: To begin construc ng the body glue the main floor profile 3 to the 0.5mm floor sheet (A). The sheet is cut oversize so will need trimming down with scissors or a cra knife to sit flush with the main profile on all four sides. Step 11: Build the sides by gluing 1 to 2 and repea ng for the other side. ENSURE you glue them opposite ways around to make the two sides. Dry fit first to check. Step 12: If construc ng the silage trailer variant you can now glue 11 and 12 back to back. Step 13: Glue the thin 0.5mm strips (B) to the back of both sides and silage sides if used. Trim as appropriate. Step 14: Using the smaller thin strips (C) (D) fill the gaps on the front sheet 4. If building the silage variant also glue the mesh to 10. You may need to apply some pressure to the mesh while gluing to obtain a strong bond. You can see how we have used a clamp and some wood to hold the two together while the glue sets. Do NOT over ghten or the acrylic plas c will break. Step 15: Turn the front sheet over and glue the two 15 strips to either side of the window as illustrated. Step 16: Build the rear door by gluing 6 to 5 as pictured. Then flip over and glue two more (C) thin sheets over the gaps. Step 17: To build the body first glue one side, the front and the floor together to create a square corner. The front fits in the recess at the front of the side. The bearers in the floor line up flush with the bo om of the sides. The thin floor sheet should sit just above to the two curved wheel cut outs. Complete the main body by adding the second side lining up in the same way as the first. Use a set square while gluing to ensure everything is straight and square. Offer the tailgate up to its recess in the rear, it should be a rela vely loos fit. Step 18: If building the silage trailer glue the extensions to the body as pictured. Make sure the front of the extensions sits 2.5mm back from the front of the main side to allow room for fi ng the front mesh panel. You may wish to glue the mesh in place now to simplify pain ng. If you wish to paint the mesh silver then it will be asier to paint a different colour and glue inplace one painted. If building the grain variant skip straight to step 19. Step 19: A ach the underbody parts. Four hinge plates 26 glue in the front facing forwards as illustrated. They fit in the slots to provide correct spacing. The Two rear hinges 25 sit in their cut out pockets. The four sideguard droppers 33 glue to the thin floor. The fronts are 12mm from the front, the rears are 60mm from the front. The sideguards 32 then glue to the brackets flush with the front of the trailer. Step 20: Construc ng the rest of the tailgate by gluing 8 to either side of the tailgate as illustrated. They tabs sit up to the raised edge of the border and the narrower spacing sits to the top of the tailgate. Step 21: The tail gate arms can now be glued to the tabs with the long arm at the top. Step 22: If building the silage variant you can now a ach the extensions to the tailgate. Glue 14 to the thin strip (E). Glue the two sides 13 to either side of 14 as illustrated and glue to the top of the tailgate. Step 23: The ladder can be constructed by gluing the four small blocks 37 to the back . In the photo I have glued them in the wrong loca on. There should be two blocks at the top where there is no rung across, and then two blocks on the third rung from the other end. See CAD drawing for correct fitment. The ladder can be glued to the front before or a er pain ng. Be er paint coverage is achievable when le off. Step 24: You can now dry assemble the model to check that parts fit well such as the tailgate in the rear slot and the chassis to the body hinges. With the chassis on the body and the wheels in place you can fix the mudguards. They should fit as per the drawing but make any altera ons necessary so they avoid the wheels and rear lights. Step 25: The parts are now ready for paint. I would recommend star ng with a plas c primer, I used Halfords Grey Plas c Primer but a red primer may also be suitable. This helps bond to the acrylic parts while also levelling everything to the same colour. Once the primer is dry I have used an automo ve paint. Broughan supply trailers in a wide variety of colours, examples below are all painted in Halfords aerosol colours. Ford Sunburst Red, Ford Electric Blue, Volvo Dark Grey 228 and Gloss Black. These are not an exact match but make for an affordable op on. The closest looking RAL colours are as follows. Green--RAL6018 Yellow Green Blue-- RAL5015 Sky Blue Red--RAL3020 Traffic Red Grey--RAL7005 Mouse Grey Black--RAL9017 Traffic Black I can't guarantee any of these colours are exact matches for those used on the real trailer. Rims, Front Mesh, Hose bracket and Drawbar Shoe have all been painted with Hyctoe Aluminium Effect. Any Silver paint is suitable. Step 26: I would recommend applying the decals next as the individual parts are easier to hold before final assembly. The following advice is provided by our decal manufacturer. You can apply these s ckers with the "Dry" or "Wet" method. Dry method: (Recomended) -Apply decal at room temperature -Clean & dry the surface -Remove the excess foil from the delivered s cker -"Remove" the pre-cut decal from the decal sheet and place it on your model -Press the s cker firmly to ac vate the pressure sensi ve adhesive; This is fully cured a er 48 hours Wet Method: -Apply to model at room temperature -Clean & dry the surface -Mix 1 drop of soap with lime-free water (boiled or dis lled) in a container or plant sprayer -Remove the excess foil from the supplied s cker sheet -Spray the surface to be s ckered with the plant sprayer -"Remove" the pre-cut s cker from the s cker sheet and place your decal on your model or -Put your s cker through the water/soap tray and place your s cker on your model - Correct the posi on if necessary: these s ckers are perfect for that - Rub the water under the s cker from the center to the outside of the s cker -Press the s cker firmly to ac vate the pressure sensi ve adhesive; This is fully cured a er 48 hours The reflec ve tape can be cut (with a knife or scissors) from the supplied sheets of white red and yellow in 2mm length and stuck to the model as desired using the above methods. Step 27: With the decals in place you can begin final assembly of the model. Start by moun ng the body on the chassis using a piece of the thicker wire folded to an L shape, thread through the hinge holes and bend at the other end to lock inplace, again taking care not to snap any acrylic. Step 28: Mount the rams in the body, again use the thicker wire and L shape method for the chassis moun ng with the wide end of the rams. (You may wish to paint the bo om stage of the ram, the ram can be disassembled by pushing the other way, don't loose the copper spacers inside!) The top mount on the body requires a length of thick wire cut narrower than the mounts, thread through the mounts and rams and glue the ends to hold. Thin plas c can be used to cap the holes to stop the wire falling out if the glue fails. Step 29: Finally fix the tailgate to the body. To do this use some of the thin wire, cut and bent to an L-shape with pliers. Feed the longer end of the L through the tailgate and body holes. Gently fold the other end of the wire down to hold it in place and connect tailgate to body. BE CAREFUL not to apply to much pressure as this could snap the acrylic or result in the hinge being to ght preven ng any tailgate movement. A nice loose bend is perfect, then trim any excess wire with snips. Step 30: Paint and glue any remaining ancillary items such as the pipe holder, drawbar shoe ladders and mudflaps. If you have painted the mesh silage extension glue this inplace. Take care when gluing painted parts as superglue will fog the surrounding paint. A clear glue like UHU or Deluxe Materials Glue `n' Glaze is be er for this job. Glue the clear panel into the front window, again don't use super glue for this step, it will fog the clear glazing. Finally push the 2mm steel axle into one of the rims, thread the axle through the holes in the chassis and push the other rim on to secure. Use the black straw to make spacers if necessary and a li le drop of glue will help keep the rims on the axle. Check that the tyre tread is running the right way! The model is now complete and ready for harvest, sit back and admire your crea on, great work!iLovePDF