Schwarzkopf IGORA ROYAL Technical Manual
Be the Colourist you want to be.
Introduction to IGORA ROYAL
IGORA ROYAL was developed by colourists for colourists with the mission to empower users to create beautiful looks, explore creativity, and reveal clients' individual beauty. The formulas offer amazing true-to-tuft results, up to 100% coverage, incredible colour intensity, and reliable performance.
IGORA ROYAL Technology
IGORA ROYAL High Definition Technology features re-engineered pigment matrices for clarity in tone, enhanced true-to-tuft results, greater colour intensity, and maximum coverage. Lipid carriers amplify pigment penetration and lock in colour, protecting intensity and hair health.
Description of Technology: Visual representation of re-engineered colour pigments, lipid carriers for penetration, and perfect sealing for retention, leading to true colour in high definition.
IGORA ROYAL Numbering System
The numbering system is based on a combination of up to 3 numbers:
- First number (before dash): Indicates the depth of the shade and the ideal base for true-to-tuft results.
- Numbers after dash: The first number represents the primary tone direction (dominant shade), and the second number represents the secondary tone direction (secondary colour).
Depth/Base Shades: 1- Black, 3- Dark brown, 4- Medium brown, 5- Light brown, 6- Dark blonde, 7- Medium blonde, 8- Light blonde, 9- Extra light blonde, 10- Ultra blonde. (Highlift shade strands do not show end results).
Tone Directions: -0 Natural, -1 Cendré, -2 Ash, -3 Matt, -4 Beige, -5 Gold, -6 Chocolate, -7 Copper, -8 Red, -9 Violet.
The Colour Wheel
The colour wheel is a fundamental tool in colour artistry, illustrating colour theory and relationships. It helps in choosing correct formulas by showing how shades interact. Shades opposite each other or with the same intensity cancel each other out, while varying strengths create subtle effects.
Description of Colour Wheel: A circular diagram displaying various colour shades and their relationships, used for understanding colour mixing and neutralization.
IGORA ROYAL Product Range Overview
| Product Range | Assortment Examples | Oil Developer Options | Mixing Ratio | Development Time |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Naturals | -0, -1, -4 | 3% 10 Vol., 6% 20 Vol., 9% 30 Vol. | 1:1 | 30-45 min |
| Natural Extra | -00 | 6% 20 Vol., 9% 30 Vol. | 1:1 | 30-45 min |
| Fashion Tones | -11, -12, -13, -16, -19, 9.5-21, -22, -24, -29, -33, -42, -46, -48, -55, -6, -63*, -65, -67, -68, -7, -76, -77, -84, -88, -98, -99 | 3% 10 Vol., 6% 20 Vol., 9% 30 Vol. | 1:1 | 30-45 min |
| Pastels | (Used on base 9 and lighter) | 3% 10 Vol. | 1:1 | 5-30 min |
| Highlifts | 10- (Ultra Blonde), 12- (Special Blonde) | 9% 30 Vol., 12% 40 Vol. | 1:1 (10-series), 1:2 (12-series) | 30-45 min |
| Absolutes | -01, -10, -140, -40, -450, -460, -470, -50, -560, -60, -70, -710, -80 | 6% 20 Vol., 9% 30 Vol. | 1:1 | 30-45 min |
| Silver Whites | Silver, Dove Grey, Grey Lilac, Slate Grey | 3% 10 Vol. | 1:1 | up to 20 min |
| Fashion Lights | (Used on base 6 and darker) | 12% 40 Vol. | 1:1 | 30-45 min |
IGORA ROYAL Oil Developer Usage
The IGORA ROYAL Oil Developer range includes 3% 10 Vol., 6% 20 Vol., 9% 30 Vol., and 12% 40 Vol., each suited for different lifting and colouring purposes.
- 3% 10 Vol.: For colouring darker hair, covering 100% white/grey hair, colour deposit on pre-lightened hair, and IGORA ROYAL Pastel shades.
- 6% 20 Vol.: For tone-on-tone colouration, coverage on white hair, and lifting 1-2 levels. Also for white hair coverage with Absolutes/Natural Extra on over 90% white hair.
- 9% 30 Vol.: For lifting 2-3 levels, colouring with -00 series, white hair coverage with Absolutes, lifting up to 3 levels with Ultra Blonde (10-), and lifting 3-4 levels with Special Blonde (12-).
- 12% 40 Vol.: For IGORA ROYAL Fashion Lights, lifting 3-4 levels with Ultra Blonde (10-), and lifting 4-5 levels with Special Blonde (12-). (4-5 levels of lift achievable on natural base 6 and lighter).
Description of Oil Developer Usage Table: A visual chart showing recommended developer strengths (3%, 6%, 9%, 12%) for different levels of lift (0 to 5 levels) and for colouring darker shades.
IGORA ROYAL Core Ranges
IGORA ROYAL Natural Shades
Specially developed for 100% white hair coverage, offering natural-looking shades, true-to-tuft results, intense shine, and long-lasting results. Suitable for mixing with other IGORA ROYAL shades. Recommended developer: 3% 10 Vol., 6% 20 Vol., 9% 30 Vol. Mixing ratio: 1:1. Development time: 30-45 min. Expert Tip: Mix one part Natural shade with two parts Fashion shade for 100% coverage.
IGORA ROYAL Natural Extra Shades
Designed for total coverage on whites and greys, even on thick/coarse hair. Offers 100% white hair coverage, up to 25% more colour pigments than Natural shades, natural tones, true-to-tuft results, intense shine, and long-lasting results. Recommended developer: 9% 30 Vol. (or 6% 30 Vol. for deposit on over 90% white hair). Mixing ratio: 1:1. Development time: 30-45 min. Application Tip: On delicate hair, avoid the first 2cm from the hairline on initial application, apply this area last for uniform coverage.
IGORA ROYAL Fashion Shades
Formulated for brilliant, directional, long-lasting fashion shades and dazzling shine. Offers up to 70% white hair coverage, vibrant tones, true-to-tuft results, intense shine, and long-lasting results. Mixable with other IGORA ROYAL shades. Recommended developer: 3% 10 Vol., 6% 20 Vol., 9% 30 Vol. Mixing ratio: 1:1. Development time: 30-45 min. For 70-100% white hair coverage, mix 2:1 with a Natural shade (or 1:1 for thick/resistant hair).
IGORA ROYAL Sub Ranges
IGORA ROYAL Absolutes
Targeted for mature customers, offering 100% white hair coverage (even with fashion shades). Features the first collagen & siliamine hair colour with Pro-Age-Complex for mature hair care. Unique shades flatter mature skin. Specific Technology: Pro-Age-Complex (siliamine and collagen) for hair surface smoothing. Low Odour Technology reduces smell. Offers fashion shades, up to 100% white coverage, more dye stuff, brilliant shine, long-lasting results, and extra care. Recommended developer: 9% 30 Vol. (or 6% 20 Vol. for pure deposit on over 90% white hair). Mixing ratio: 1:1. Development time: 30-45 min.
IGORA ROYAL Silver Whites
Designed to beautify white & grey hair shades. Offers low commitment, extra care for mature hair, and intermixable shades. Shade usage varies by base and percentage of white hair (Silver for 70-100% white on base 6+, Dove Grey & Grey Lilac for 30-100% white on base 5+, Slate Grey for 30-60% white on base 1-5). Recommended developer: 3% 10 Vol. Mixing ratio: 1:1. Development time: up to 20 min.
IGORA ROYAL Highlifts
Designed for cool blondes, featuring powerful lifting shades with integrated Fibre Bond Technology. This technology protects hair bonds during lifting in one step. Offers ultra-cool pigment combinations for silvery blonde hues.
Ultra Blonde (10-Series)
Features: 3-4 levels of lift, reliable neutralisation, for base 7 and lighter. Developer: 9% 30 Vol. (up to 3 levels), 12% 40 Vol. (3-4 levels). Mixing ratio: 1:1. Development time: 30-45 min. Recommended to use Fibreplex No.2 post-service.
Special Blonde (12-Series)
Features: 4-5 levels of lift, reliable neutralisation, for bases 6 and lighter. Developer: 9% 30 Vol. (up to 4 levels), 12% 40 Vol. (up to 5 levels). Mixing ratio: 1:2. Development time: 30-45 min. Recommended to use Fibreplex No.2 post-service.
Expert Tips on Lifting: Apply colour in small sections, saturate hair. For cool shades, avoid the first 2cm from the hairline on initial application, apply a neutralising shade there last. Develop rest of head for 15 min, then apply to root area and develop for another 30 min.
IGORA ROYAL Fashion Lights
Radiant fashion shades and blondes with integrated Fibre Bond Technology for highlighting. Features: Lift & colour in one step, amazing brightness, up to 5 levels of lift, intense contrast on dark/coloured bases, for bases 6 and darker, off-scalp application only. Fibre Bond Technology protects hair bonds. Recommended developer: 12% 40 Vol. Mixing ratio: 1:1. Development time: 30-45 min (45 min for tinted bases). Recommended to use Fibreplex No.2 post-service.
IGORA ROYAL Pastels
Designed to add soft tones to light bases, reliably neutralising and personalising blonde hair. Features: Translucent pigmentation for personalising blondes and colouring whites, enhances blonde shades, super-subtle pastel tones, neutralises yellow tones, intermixable shades, for base 9 and lighter. Recommended developer: 3% 10 Vol. Mixing ratio: 1:1. Development time: 5-30 min (monitor closely). For lightening services, balance pH after pre-lightening to close cuticles before toner application.
Expert Tip for Pastels: For neutralising pale/pre-lightened hair, start on warmest areas (5-10 min), then apply to rest of hair (5-20 min), monitoring closely.
IGORA ROYAL Additives
The IGORA Royal technical range includes additives to boost, shift, or neutralise tone directions for creative results.
IGORA ROYAL Neutralisers (0-11, 0-22, 0-33)
Provide cool tone directions to neutralise unwanted warmth. Mixing: Add up to 5% (base 8-9), 15% (base 6-7), or 25% (base 1-5) of colour cream. Increase developer proportionally.
IGORA ROYAL Boosters (0-55, 0-77, 0-88, 0-89, 0-99)
Boost fashion shades on all intensity levels and work with any IGORA ROYAL shade. Booster can be up to 50% of the colour cream formula. Adding too much reduces coverage; adjust colour amount and application. Increase developer proportionally.
IGORA ROYAL Extract E-1
Adds cooling action to target shades. Mixing ratios vary by base (2:1 for 8-7, 1:1 for 6-5, 1:2 for 4 and darker). For extra cool results, use E-1 purely. Developer: 3% 10 Vol. Mixing ratio: 1:1. Development time: 30-45 min.
IGORA ROYAL Pastelfier
Reduces pigment concentration for muted tones and soft pastels, offering additional lifting and warmth neutralisation. Mixing ratios vary by base (1 part colour cream + up to 2 parts Pastelfier for 8-9, up to 4 parts for 5-7, up to 6 parts for 3-4). Developer according to base colour. Development time: 30-45 min.
IGORA ROYAL Diluter 0-00
Reduces pigment concentration for softer pastel tones. Add up to 50% of the colour creme. Increase developer proportionally.
Successful Colouring
Colour Consultation
Crucial for understanding client desires and choosing the right colour. Hair colour is key for fashion statements and personal expression. Accurate diagnosis of hair type, colour, and condition is essential to avoid disappointing results and maintain customer confidence.
Natural Hair Colour Analysis
Consider variations in natural hair colour (front vs. back). Use IGORA ROYAL colour charts to assess natural pigment and underlying pigments. Previous colourations, perms, or bleaches affect colour absorption, especially on porous hair. The percentage of white hair influences product choice and mixing ratios. Hair diameter affects pigment deposition; fine hair processes darker, thick hair lighter.
Hair Diameter Notes: Fine hair: select shade one level lighter. Normal hair: select target shade. Thick hair: select shade one level darker.
Expert Tips on Colouring Hair
Achieving perfect results requires understanding technical reasons behind each stage. Neutralising unwanted tones (often red/orange/yellow from pheomelanin) is key when lifting, especially dark hair. Correct mixing ratios and development times are crucial. Colour corrections involve analysing existing base/condition and cancelling darkness or unwanted tones.
Pre-pigmentation
Used when colouring hair back to natural or darker tones after lightening. Addresses porosity issues where cool pigments are absorbed quickly, leading to dark, muddy, or green results. Also addresses bases too light to support dark colours. Involves applying semi-permanent colour to porous areas before the final colour application. Adjustments in shade choice or mixing ratios may be needed.
Expert Tips on Blonde
Blonde clients expect stylists to be beauty coaches. They are cautious about hair health and want long-lasting results. Achieving the target blonde shade requires high skill, understanding that colour chart tufts are references, not final results. Good communication and consultation are vital. The existing hair base and target result determine if one or two steps are needed.
Checklist for Colouring
| Step | Action | Reason |
|---|---|---|
| 1. Evaluate depth and tone direction | Assess client's hair | Helps choose correct tone direction, counteracts red-orange pigments in darker hair. |
| 2. Choose the right product | Select appropriate colour/lightener | Important for neutralisation of warmth and lifting performance. |
| 3. Choose correct Developer strength | Select appropriate developer volume | To achieve the desired level of lift. |
| 4. Before toning: Evaluate lifting result | Assess depth and tone direction | To reach target lift and perfect neutralisation/toning. |
| 5. Processing time | Allow maximum processing time without heat | Ensures optimal colour development. |
Related Products
IGORA VIBRANCE
A state-of-the-art, moisturising demi-permanent hair colour. Offers liquid or gel formula options for various services. Can be used with Activator Gel or Lotion.
CHROMA ID
A semi-permanent mix & tone colour system with integrated bonding. Designed for subtle to bold shades, offering 100% colour flexibility without damage. Used for refreshing, neutralising, bold colours, and customisation.
Expert Kit: Colour Service Opportunities
Premiumise colour services by including Schwarzkopf Professional Color Enablers for optimal results. These include:
- Step 1: Create the perfect canvas: BOND ENFORCING COLOR REMOVER, HAIR PRIMER.
- Step 2: Protect hair, scalp, and skin: FIBREPLEX NO.1, SCALP PROTECT, SKIN PROTECT.
- Step 3: Seal hair for lasting colour: STAIN REMOVER, HAIR SEALER, FIBREPLEX NO.2.
These products are recommended for various services including first-time full head, foiling/highlights/balayage, lifting colour, lifting/lightening with pastel toning, pre-pigmentation, and colour correction.
IGORA ROYAL Portfolio Summary
Detailed colour charts are available for various IGORA ROYAL ranges:
- IGORA ROYAL Core: Naturals, Cendrés & Cools, Beiges & Golds, Chocolates, Reds.
- IGORA ROYAL Highlifts, Absolutes, Silver Whites, Fashion Lights: Includes specific categories like Absolutes, Highlifts & Pastels, Specialities, Silver Whites, Booster/Neutraliser, Fashion Lights.
Description of Portfolio Tables: Comprehensive tables displaying shade numbers and their corresponding colour families for IGORA ROYAL Core and other sub-ranges like Highlifts, Absolutes, etc.