STANLEY STSM1525 10" Miter Saw

This document provides comprehensive instructions for the safe operation, maintenance, and troubleshooting of the STANLEY STSM1525 10" Miter Saw.

General Safety Rules

Warning! Read and understand all instructions. Failure to follow all instructions listed below may result in electric shock, fire, and/or serious personal injury.

Safety Instructions

General power tool safety warnings.

Warning! Read all safety warnings and all instructions. Failure to follow the warnings and instructions listed below may result in electric shock, fire, and/or serious injury.

Save all warnings and instructions for future reference. The term "power tool" in all of the warnings listed below refers to your mains operated (corded) power tool or battery operated (cordless) power tool.

Work Area Safety

Electrical Safety

Personal Safety

Power Tool Use and Care

Service

Electrical Safety

Your tool is double insulated; therefore no earth wire is required. Always check that the main voltage corresponds to the voltage on the rating plate.

Warning! If the power cord is damaged, it must be replaced by the manufacturer, authorized STANLEY Service Center or an equally qualified person in order to avoid damage or injury. If the power cord is replaced by an equally qualified person, but not authorized by STANLEY, the warranty will not be valid.

Labels on Tool

The label on your tool may include the following symbols:

Important Safety Instructions

Key Information You Should Know:

Warning! When using electric tools, basic safety precautions should always be followed to reduce risk of fire, electric shock, and personal injury, including the following:

Safety Warnings: Double Insulation

Double insulated tools are constructed throughout with two separate layers of electrical insulation or one double thickness of insulation between you and the tool's electrical system. Tools built with this insulation system are not intended to be grounded. As a result, your tool is equipped with a two prong plug which permits you to use extension cords without concern for maintaining a ground connection.

Note: Double insulation does not take the place of normal safety precautions when operating this tool. The insulation system is for added protection against injury resulting from a possible electrical insulation failure within the tool.

Warning! When servicing all tools, USE IDENTICAL REPLACEMENT PARTS. Repair or replace damaged cords.

Safety Instructions: Polarized Plugs

To reduce the risk of electric shock, this equipment has a polarized plug (one blade is wider than the other). This plug will fit in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not fit fully into the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not fit, contact a qualified electrician to install the proper outlet. Do not change the plug in any way.

Warning! Failure to heed these warnings may result in personal injury and serious damage to the saw.

Additional Safety Rules for Miter Saws

Caution! Some wood contains preservatives such as copper chromium arsenate (CCA) which can be toxic. When cutting these materials extra care should be taken to avoid inhalation and minimize skin contact.

Caution! Use of this tool can generate dust containing chemicals known to cause cancer, birth defects or other reproductive harm. Use appropriate respiratory protection.

Caution! Do not connect unit to electrical power source until complete instructions are read and understood.

For Your Convenience and Safety, the Following Warning Labels Are on Your Miter Saw

On Motor Housing:

WARNING: For your own safety, read instruction manual before operating saw. When servicing, use only identical replacement parts. Always wear eye protection.

On Fence:

Clamp small pieces before cutting. See manual.

On Guard:

DANGER: Keep away from blade

On Guard Retainer Plate:

Properly secure bracket with both screws before use.

On Table:

(2 Sitios).

Electrical Connection

Be sure your power supply agrees with the nameplate marking. A voltage decrease of 10 percent or more will cause a loss of power and overheating. All B&D tools are factory tested. If this tool does not operate, check the power supply.

Features (Fig. A y B)

The following are the main parts of the miter saw:

  1. Handle
  2. Metal guard
  3. Cutting Blade
  4. Knob
  5. Latch
  6. Scale
  7. Guide
  8. Holes
  9. Dust Exhaust
  10. Safety Pin
  11. Hand Indentations
  12. Guide
  13. Table
  14. Motor
  15. Switch
  16. Cable
FIG. A & B: Diagrams showing the miter saw with numbered parts.

Familiarization

Place the saw on a smooth, flat surface such as a workbench or strong table. Examine Fig. A y B, and refer to the parts description to become familiar with the saw and its various parts. The following section on adjustments will refer to these terms and you must know what and where the parts are. The part name is followed by the corresponding part number. Example - lock down pin (10).

FIG. C: Illustrates pressing down on the operating handle and pulling out the lock down pin.

Press down lightly on the operating handle and pull out the lock down pin (10), as shown in Fig. C. Gently release the downward pressure and allow the arm to rise to its full height. Use the lock down pin when carrying the saw from one place to another. Use the operating handle (1) to transport the saw or the hand indentations (11) shown in Fig. B after unplugging.

Bench Mounting

Bench mounting holes (8) are provided in all four feet to facilitate bench mounting, as shown in Fig. A. (Two different sized holes are provided to accommodate different sizes of screws. Use either hole, it is not necessary to use both.) Always mount your saw firmly to prevent movement. To enhance the tool's portability, it can be mounted to a piece of 1/2” or thicker plywood which can then be clamped to your work support or moved to other job sites and reclamped.

Note: If you elect to mount your saw to a piece of plywood, make sure that the mounting screws don't protrude from the bottom of the wood. The plywood must sit flush on the work support. When clamping the saw to any work surface, clamp only on the clamping bosses where the mounting screw holes are located. Clamping at any other point will interfere with the proper operation of the saw.

Caution! To prevent binding and inaccuracy, be sure the mounting surface is not warped or otherwise uneven. If the saw rocks on the surface, place a thin piece of material under one saw foot until the saw sits firmly on the mounting surface.

Installing a New Saw Blade

(Unplug the miter saw) Do not use ferrous metal or masonry cutting blades in this saw.

Note: There are two different internal diameters of cutter in inner plate which have steel stamp marked 25.4mm 16mm. When mounting, the outer diameter of inner plate must be correspondent with the internal diameter of saw blade.

Mount flange and hex bolt.

Press axle lock and tighten hex bolt counter clockwise with box wrench firmly, then tighten hex bolt clockwise to fix center cover.

Note: Only use attached wrench when mounting or dismounting saw blade. When dismounting saw blade, lift up safe cover and center cover. Loosen hex bolt with box wrench and disassemble hex bolt, flange and saw blade.

NEVER DEPRESS THE SPINDLE LOCK PIN WHILE THE BLADE IS ROTATING. Be sure to hold the guard bracket down and firmly tighten the guard bracket screw when you finish installing the saw blade. Failure to do so will cause serious damage to the saw.

Assembling and Adjusting Your Saw

Perform all assembly with saw unplugged.

Remove the miter clamp handle (4) from the plastic parts bag and carefully thread it into the bracket in the front of the saw.

Attaching Dust Bag

A zippered cloth dust bag is included with your saw. To attach the bag, fit the plastic opening firmly over the dust spout (9).

Note: The saw can also be used with a vacuum cleaner hose attached to the dust spout or without any attachment.

Adjustments

Perform all adjustments with the miter saw unplugged.

Note: Your miter saw is fully and accurately adjusted at the factory at the time of manufacture. If readjustment due to shipping and handling or any other reason is required, follow the steps below to adjust your saw:

Miter Scale Adjustment

FIG. D: Shows placing a square against the fence and blade.
FIG. E: Illustrates loosening the miter clamp handle.
FIG. F: Shows screws securing the handle to the base.

Place a square against the saw's fence and blade, as shown in Fig. D. (Do not touch the tips of the blade teeth with the square. To do so will cause an inaccurate measurement.) Loosen the miter clamp handle (4) as shown in Fig. E and swing the miter arm until the miter latch (5) locks it at the 0 miter position. Do not tighten the clamp handle. If the saw blade is not exactly perpendicular to the fence, loosen the two screws that hold the handle to the base (shown in Fig. F) and move the arm of the saw left or right until the blade is perpendicular to the fence, as measured with the square. Retighten the two screws. Pay no attention to the reading of the miter pointer at this point.

Guard Actuation and Visibility

The blade guard on your saw has been designed to automatically raise when the arm is brought down and to lower over the blade when the arm is raised. The guard can be raised by hand when installing or removing saw blades or for inspection of the saw. Never raise the blade guard manually unless the saw is turned off.

Note: Certain special cuts will require that you manually raise the guard. To do this, simply place your right thumb on the upper side of the guard and roll the guard up just enough to clear the workpiece. Never tie up or otherwise prevent the guard from operating normally.

Operation

Plug the saw into any power source. Refer to the nameplate for voltage. Be sure the cord will not interfere with your work.

Switch

To turn the saw on, depress the trigger switch (16). To turn the tool off, release the switch. There is no provision for locking the switch on.

Body and Hand Position (see FIG. G)

FIG. G: Illustrates proper body and hand positioning during cutting.

Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the miter saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer. Never place hands near cutting area. Place hands no closer than 6” from the blade. Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting. Keep hands in position until the trigger has been released and the blade has completely stopped. Always make dry runs (unpowered) before finish cuts so that you can check the path of the blade. Do not cross hands, as shown in Fig. G.

Cutting with Your Saw

Note: Although this saw will cut wood and many nonferrous materials, we will limit our discussion to the cutting of wood only. The same guidelines apply to the other materials. Do not cut ferrous (iron and steel) materials or masonry with this saw. Do not use any abrasive blades.

Crosscuts

Note: Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended, but can be done safely by ensuring that each piece is held firmly against the table and fence. A crosscut is made by cutting wood across the grain at any angle.

A straight crosscut is made with the miter arm at the zero degree position. Set the miter arm at zero, hold the wood on the table and firmly against the fence. Turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger switch.

When the saw comes up to speed (about 1 second) lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.

Miter Crosscuts

Miter crosscuts are made with the miter arm at some angle other than zero. This angle is often 45° degrees for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to degrees left or right. After selecting the desired miter angle, be sure to tighten the miter clamp handle (4). Make the cut as described above.

Bevel Cuts

A bevel cut is a crosscut made with the saw blade at a bevel to the wood. In order to set the bevel, loosen the bevel clamp knob (10) and move the saw to the left as desired. Once the desired bevel angle has been set, tighten the bevel clamp knob firmly. Bevel angles can be set up to 45° degrees left and can be cut with the miter arm set between zero and 47° degrees right or left.

Quality of Cut

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables. Things like material being cut, blade type, blade sharpness and rate of cut all contribute to the quality of the cut.

When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desired results.

Ensure that material does not creep while cutting, clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm.

If small fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when finished.

Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance. As you move the miter arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to the side of the saw blade. Sight through the guard louvers when following a pencil line.

Clamping the Workpiece

Turn off and unplug saw.

If you cannot secure the workpiece on the table and against the fence by hand (irregular shape, etc.) or your hand will be within 6” of the blade, a clamp or fixture must be used.

Other convenient clamps such as spring, bar or C clamps may be appropriate for certain sizes and shapes of workpieces. Use care in selecting and placing these clamps and make a dry run before making the cut.

Support for Long Pieces

Turn off and unplug saw. Always support long pieces.

For best results, use an extension work support to extend the table width of your saw. Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.

Cutting Picture Frames, and Other Four Sided Projects

To best understand how to make the items listed here, we suggest that you try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “FEEL” for your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitering corners like the ones shown in FIG. H, which shows a joint made by setting the miter arm at 45° degrees to miter the two boards to form a 90° degree corner. To make this type of joint, set the miter arm to 450 degrees. The wood was positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.

FIG. H: Shows examples of joints (corner, frame).

As the number of sides changes, so do the miter angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of shapes. (The chart assumes that all sides are of equal length.)

For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula: 180 degrees divided by the number of sides equals the miter.

NO. SIDES ANGLE MITER
4 45°
5 36°
6 30°
7 25.7°
8 22.5°
9 20°
10 18°

Cutting Compound Miters

A compound miter is a cut made using a miter angle and a bevel angle at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in Fig. H.

Note: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel clamp knob (10) and the miter clamp handle (4) are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened after making any changes in bevel or miter.

Cutting Crown Molding

In order to fit properly, crown molding must be mitered with extreme accuracy. The two flat surfaces on a given piece of crown molding are at angles that, when added together, equal exactly 90° degrees. Most, but not all, crown molding has a top rear angle (the section that fits flat against the ceiling) of 52° degrees and a bottom rear angle (the part that fits flat against the wall) of 38° degrees.

Pretesting with scrap material is extremely important! Place the bottom side (the side that will be against the wall) against the miter saw fence. Place the top (that part that will be against the ceiling) against the saw table and the crown molding fence.

Instructions for cutting crown molding angled between the fence and the table of the saw for all cuts:

Inside Corner:

Outside Corner:

Always make dry runs to check for clearance and correctness of cuts.

Special Cuts

NEVER MAKE ANY CUTS UNLESS THE MATERIAL IS SECURED ON THE TABLE AND AGAINST THE FENCE.

Aluminum Cutting (Carbide tipped blade only)

Aluminum extrusions such as those used when making aluminum screens and storm windows can easily be cut with your saw using the proper blade designed for non-ferrous metal cutting. Position the material so that you will be cutting the thinnest cross section, as shown in Fig. I.

FIG. I: Correct way to cut aluminum extrusions.
FIG. J: Incorrect way to cut aluminum extrusions.

Fig. J illustrates the wrong way to cut these extrusions. Use a wax lubricant when cutting aluminum such as Johnson's Stick Wax No.140. Apply the stick wax directly to the saw blade before cutting.

Never apply stick wax to a moving blade. The wax, available at most hardware stores and industrial mill supply houses, provides proper lubrication and keeps chips from adhering to the blade.

Be sure to properly secure work. Certain workpieces, due to their size, shape or surface finish, may require the use of a clamp, jig or fixture to prevent movement during the cut.

Bowed Material

When cutting bowed material always position it as shown in Fig. K and never like that shown in Fig. L. Positioning the material incorrectly will cause it to pinch the blade near the completion of the cut.

FIG. K: Correct positioning for bowed material.
FIG. L: Incorrect positioning for bowed material.

Cutting Plastic Pipe and Other Round Cross-Sectional Material

Plastic pipe can be easily cut with your saw. It should be cut just like wood and clamped or held firmly to the fence to keep it from rolling particularly when making angle cuts.

Maintenance

Perform all maintenance with miter saw unplugged.

  1. All bearings are sealed. They are lubricated for life and need no further maintenance.
  2. Periodically clean all dust and wood chips from around and under the base and the rotary table. Even though slots are provided to allow debris to pass through, some dust will accumulate.
  3. The brushes are designed to give you several years of use. If they ever need replacement follow the instructions in this manual or return the tool to the nearest service center for repair.

Important! To ensure product SAFETY and RELIABILITY, repairs, maintenance, and adjustments should be performed only by Authorized Service Technicians, as they use identical replacement pieces.

Your tool has been designed to operate over a long period of time with a minimum of maintenance. Continuous satisfactory operation depends upon proper tool care and regular cleaning.

Warning! Before performing any maintenance, switch off and unplug the tool.

Accessories

The performance of your tool depends on the accessory used. STANLEY accessories are engineered to high quality standards and designed to enhance the performance of your tool. By using these accessories you will get the very best from your tool.

Caution! Use of any accessory not recommended for this tool may be dangerous.

Protecting the Environment

Separate Collection. This product must not be disposed of with normal household waste. Should you find one day that your STANLEY product needs replacement, or if it is of no further use to you, do not dispose of it with household waste. Make this product available for separate collection.

Separate collection of used products and packaging allows materials to be recycled and used again. Re-use of recycled materials helps prevent environmental pollution and reduces the demand for raw materials. Local regulations may provide for separate collection of electrical products from the household, at municipal waste sites or by the retailer when you purchase a new product.

Service Information

STANLEY offers a full network of company-owned and authorized service locations. All STANLEY Service Centers are staffed with trained personnel to provide customers with efficient and reliable power tool service. For more information about our authorized service centers and if you need technical advice, repair, or genuine factory replacement parts, contact the STANLEY location nearest you.

Specifications

STSM1525
Power 1500W
No-load speed 5500 rpm

Trouble Shooting

Problem Possible Cause Possible Solution
Saw makes unsatisfactory cuts Gum or pitch on blade Remove blade and clean with turpentine and coarse steel wool or household oven cleaner.
Incorrect blade for work being done Change the blade.
Blade does not come up to speed Extension cord is too light or too long. Replace with adequate size cord.
Low house current. Contact your electric company.
Machine vibrates excessively Saw not mounted securely Tighten all mounting hardware.
Stand or bench on uneven floor Reposition on flat level surface.
Damaged saw blade Replace blade.
Machine vibrates excessively Miter scale not adjusted correctly Check and adjust.
Blade is not square to fence Check and adjust.
The blade is not perpendicular to the table. Check and adjust the guide.
Material pinches blade Workpiece moving Clamp workpiece to fence or glue 120 grit sandpaper to fence with rubber cement.
Cutting bowed material. Position bowed material as shown in Fig. K.

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