Specialized Stumpjumper EVO User Manual

4.1 Geometry

The table below shows the standard geometry for the bicycles as shipped. Visit www.specialized.com for all possible geometry configurations.

Diagram Description: Figure 4.1 illustrates the geometry of the Stumpjumper EVO frame with various dimensions labeled A through P. A represents Stack, B represents Reach, C represents Head Tube Length, D represents Head Tube Angle, E represents BB Height, F represents BB Drop, G represents Trail, H represents Fork Length (Axle to Crown), I represents Fork Rake/Offset, J represents Front Center, K represents Rear Center, L represents Wheelbase, M represents Standover Height, N represents Seat Tube Length, O represents Seat Tube Angle, and P represents Effective Top Tube Length. The table provides specific values for these dimensions across frame sizes S1 to S6.

4.2 General Specifications

* By changing the rear shock link to a separately available modified link, it is possible to install a 27.5" rear tire in the Stumpjumper EVO and maintain the same geometry. This link (S204300005) is available from your authorized Specialized retailer.

⚠️ WARNING! Only use single-crown forks with specified travel or travel range. Using other forks or forks with longer travel may result in frame failure, which could subsequently lead to serious bodily injury or death.

⚠️ WARNING! Although the SJ EVO frame is generally compatible with tires up to 29 x 2.5, tire dimensions may vary by manufacturer, and not all forks are designed for use with larger tires. Always check necessary clearance with the fork manufacturer.

CAUTION: Some chainrings may have insufficient clearance with the chainstay. Check clearance and chainline before use.

4.3 Adjusting the Shock Absorber

Specialized frames are generally designed and tested to work with the suspension components supplied as original equipment. When replacing the shock absorber, keep in mind that certain shock absorber models may not be compatible with the frame due to shock absorber reservoir position, size, and/or other compatibility factors, even if the shock absorber fits the frame perfectly. Always consult your authorized Specialized retailer for advice on appropriate shock absorbers.

⚠️ WARNING! Using an incompatible shock absorber can damage the shock absorber or frame and lead to loss of control and falls.

4.4 Required Tools

• 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 mm Allen Keys
• Torque Wrench (reversible type, for SRAM UDH)
• High-Pressure Shock Pump
• High-Quality Grease
• Blue Threadlocker (Loctite 243)
• Green Threadlocker (Loctite 603)
• Cable and Housing Cutter
• Torx T10 Screwdriver

4.5 Bolt Size / Tool / Torque Values

⚠️ WARNING! The correct torque values on your bicycle's fasteners (bolts, nuts, screws) are critical for your safety. Insufficient tightening can cause the fastener to loosen. Overtightening can strip the fastener's threads or cause the fastener to stretch, deform, or break. In either case, incorrect torque can lead to component failure, resulting in loss of control and falls.

Ensure each bolt is tightened to the specified value. After the first ride (and regularly thereafter), check the torque of each bolt to ensure proper fastening of components. Below is a summary of the torque values mentioned in this manual:

CAUTION: Tighten the SWAT door screws alternately until the door no longer wobbles, then tighten each screw an additional 1/4 turn.

4.6 General Torque Values

This section lists specific pivot points and their torque values.

4.7 Bearing Specifications

Diagram Description: Figure 4.1 shows an exploded view of the bearings and spacers for the main pivot, link, and Horst pivot locations, labeled A, B, and C respectively. The diagram illustrates how these components are arranged.

4.8 Spacer / Axle / Bolt Specifications

Diagram Description: Figure 4.2 shows an exploded view of various bolts and spacers used in the suspension linkage assembly, labeled with letters T through W. The diagram details the arrangement and types of fasteners and spacers for different pivot points.

5.1 Dropper Seatpost

For easier installation, always install the seatpost cable before installing the derailleur and brake outer cables.

Fig. 5.1: Insert the seatpost cable into the ICR port on the drive side near the head tube. From the SWAT opening, route the outer cable into the formed channel (under the SWAT door) and then down towards the bottom bracket and into the top of the seat tube.

When the outer cable goes up into the seat tube, it is possible for the cable to go up the side arm instead of the seat tube. If this happens, take a long, thin strip of cardboard or a long ruler and slide it down the seat tube to block access to the side arm.

When the outer cable emerges from the top of the seat tube, install the seatpost according to the manufacturer's instructions.

5.2 Internal Routing Tubes

Before you begin:

• The headset cable guide must be removed from the frame.
• The rear shock, extension, and link must be fully installed in the frame.
• The bottom bracket port and mud flap must be fitted to the frame.
• The chainstay must be detached from the frame.

ℹ️ INFO: Install a derailleur outer cable into each ICR tube before routing them through the frame. This prevents kinking of the nylon tube and ensures easier installation.

Fig. 5.2: Mark the ICR tube for the brake before inserting it, indicating which tube will be used for the rear brake after routing. Take the marked ICR tube for the rear brake and route it from front to back into the chainstay via the non-drive side hole near the main pivot. Route the ICR tube out of the rear ICR port in the chainstay using a 4-5 mm round dowel and leave approximately 50 mm of the tube visible. Do the same for the rear derailleur's ICR tube.

? TECHNICAL TIP: Glue a piece of tubing onto a 5.2 - 5.4 mm straight dowel and narrow the end so the tube is routed out of the chainstay without issue. This makes installation MUCH easier.

Attach the chainstay to the link and then attach the chainstay to the seatstay. Refer to Section 4.4 for the complete assembly procedure.

Fig. 5.3: Route the tubes parallel to each other (DO NOT CROSS THEM) into the frame, up into the side arm, and out of the port in the drive-side head tube. Ensure the ICR tubes are routed into their respective sides (left nylon tube into the left port hole).

? TECHNICAL TIP: It helps if the tubes are bent downwards when inserted into the frame, so they automatically find their way into the side arm.

Carefully assemble the main pivot, ensuring all parts fit together smoothly and accurately.

Fig. 5.4: Pull the ICR tube at the chainstay end or cut each ICR tube at the head tube port so that approximately 70 mm of tube protrudes from the frame.

Fig. 5.5: Apply 75% of the provided space in the headset cable guide around the ICR tubes. Apply a drop of adhesive (Loctite 416) to each tube. Allow the adhesive to briefly flow around the tube, then insert them fully into the guide.

? TECHNICAL TIP: Loctite 416 has a working time of 20-30 seconds.

ℹ️ INFO: Ensure the tubes are fully inserted into the headset ICR port to prevent tearing of the tubes.

Fig. 5.6: Insert the M3 set screw into the headset cable guide until it is flush with the front of the guide. Gently pull each ICR tube out of the chainstay again while guiding the headset cable guide into place. Install the locking screw and tighten it to the indicated value.

Fig. 5.7: Grip the derailleur outer cable still inside the tubes on both sides and gently pull the ICR tubes to position them correctly inside the frame.

ℹ️ INFO: Pull only the outer cable and NOT the ICR tube itself.

? TECHNICAL TIP: When pulling the tubes out of the chainstay ports, ensure the tubes are not pulled out of the head tube port. Pull only until the natural curve inside the frame is achieved.

5.3 Derailleur / Brake Cable

REAR BRAKE: Start at the exit on the non-drive side inner surface of the chainstay, route the outer cable through the chainstay's internal routing tube until it exits the frame at the non-drive side port of the head tube.

Fig. 5.8: Cut off excess outer cable at the chainstay exits. Cut approximately 5 mm beyond the edge of the exit with a new/sharp high-quality blade. Ensure the cutting angle matches the exit angle. Push the exposed ICR tube back into the frame until it is flush.

? TECHNICAL TIP: Apply a protective strip between the chainstay and the tube so the blade does not damage the frame's outer layer.

Fig. 5.9: EXTERNAL BANJO BOLTS: Fit the chainstay brake outer cable clamp so it is perpendicular to the tube and the outer cable is above/in front of the bolt. Ensure the outer cable makes a natural loop (curve) between the chainstay and the seatstay. Complete the brake installation according to the manufacturer's instructions.

ℹ️ INFO: Ensure there is always sufficient slack in the brake cable so it does not become taut during suspension activation.

REAR DERAILLEUR (Mechanical): Start at the front and lower exit point of the dropout on the drive side, routing the outer cable through the chainstay's internal ICR tube until it exits the non-drive side head tube port. Complete the shifter installation according to the manufacturer's instructions.

5.4 HEAD TUBE ICR PORT

Fig. 5.10: Route the derailleur cable through the upper port (A) and the brake outer cable through the lower port (B). Use the rubber plug (D) to seal the upper exit on the drive-side head tube ICR port (A) if using a wireless shifting system. Use the rubber plug (D) to seal the exit on the drive-side port (C) if using a cable-activated dropper seatpost instead of a wireless dropper seatpost.

Diagram Description: Figure 5.10 shows the head tube area with internal routing ports. Port A is on the drive side for derailleur cables, Port B is on the drive side for brake cables. Port C is on the non-drive side, and Port D is a rubber plug. The diagram illustrates how to route cables and use plugs for different configurations.

6.1 Bearing Assembly

6.1 MAIN PIVOT BEARINGS AND SPACERS

Diagram Description: Figure 6.1 shows the main pivot area, illustrating the installation of bearings (A) and spacers (I) into the chainstay.

6.2 SHOCK LINK BEARINGS AND SPACERS

Diagram Description: Figure 6.2 shows the shock link area, illustrating the installation of bearings (B) and spacers (N, O, S) into the link and frame components.

6.3 HORST BEARINGS AND SPACERS

Fig. 6.3: Insert the spacer into the bearing hole from the outside of the chainstays. Install the bearings from both sides of the chainstays, so the spacer is nicely seated in the middle.

Diagram Description: Figure 6.3 shows the Horst pivot area, illustrating the installation of bearings and spacers (G, H, C) into the chainstay.

6.2 Pivot Assembly

SHOCK EXTENSION

6.4

Fig. 6.4: Install the two parts of the guide bushing into the lower eyelet of the shock absorber. Align the shock absorber eyelet with the hole in the extension and then install the bolt. Tighten the lower shock eye bolt only in the final step!

LINK ON SEAT TUBE

6.5

Fig. 6.5: Grease the spacers, then place the link spacers against the shock link bearings (tapered surface against the bearing). Grease the link bolts and then thread them into the frame. Use a 6 mm Allen key to tighten the bolts to 20 Nm / 180 in-lbf.

FRONT SHOCK EYE BOLT

6.6

Fig. 6.6: Place the extension around the seat tube and align the upper eyelet with the frame mount. Install the front shock eye bolt. Use a 6 mm Allen key to tighten the bolts to 10 Nm / 90 in-lbf.

EXTENSION LINK

6.7

Fig. 6.7: Grease the extension spacers and insert them into the shock link bearings. Align the extension with the extension bearings. Grease the extension axles and insert them into the pivot hole. Grease the extension bolts and tighten them into the extension axles. Use a 5 mm and 4 mm Allen key to tighten the bolts and axles to 7 Nm / 60 in-lbf.

HORST LINK (REAR END)

6.8

Fig. 6.8: Grease all inner spacers (x4) and place them against the Horst shock link bearings (tapered surface against the bearing). Align the Flip Chip spacers with the "high" or "low" position and place them against the frame. The chainstay protector must be fitted before installation. When the Flip Chips are mounted, install the bolts. Ensure the Flip Chips on the drive and non-drive sides are in the same orientation! Use a 5 mm Allen key to tighten the bolts to 10 Nm / 90 in-lbf. For instructions on adjusting the Flip Chip, refer to Section 7.2.

CHAINSTAY TO LINK

6.9

Fig. 6.9: Grease the chainstay spacers (x4) and place them on the shock link bearings. Align the chainstay with the shock link bearings. Grease and tighten the chainstay bolts (x2) into the chainstay axles. Use a 6 mm and 4 mm Allen key to tighten the bolts and axles to 7 Nm / 60 in-lbf.

MAIN PIVOT ROUTING TUBES

6.10

Fig. 6.10: Before mounting the main pivot, route the internal routing tubes through the chainstays and into the frame. See Section 4.4. When installing the rear triangle, ensure the ICR tubes are routed into their respective sides (left nylon tube into the left hole).

MAIN PIVOT

6.11

Fig. 6.11: Grease and place the spacers against the main pivot bearings (tapered surface against the bearing). Align the ends on the chainstay with the main pivot bearings and spacers, then install the pivot bolts. Use a 6 mm Allen key to tighten the bolts to 24 Nm / 210 in-lbf.

ℹ️ INFO: The drive-side bolt has left-hand thread.

LOWER SHOCK EYE BOLT

6.12

Fig. 6.12: After all pivots are mounted and tightened to the indicated value, tighten the lower shock eye bolt. Use a 6 mm Allen key to tighten the bolts to 20 Nm / 180 in-lbf.

ℹ️ INFO: When tightening the rear shock eye bolt, use a deep socket bit to avoid damaging the paint.

6.3 Suspension Torque Values

Fig. 6.13: Tighten each pivot bolt to the value listed above.

7.1 Adjusting the Horst-Pivot Flip Chip

Fig. 7.1: Remove the Horst pivot bolt from the frame (A). Remove the four Flip Chips (B) and align the Horst pivot bolt spacer with the slot in the "high" or "low" position. When reinstalling the adjustable spacer, ensure it is properly seated in the chainstay and that both parts of the Flip Chip are in the same orientation.

Reinstall the Flip Chips in the desired high or low position. Ensure they are fully inserted and aligned with the chainstay protector before tightening the bolt.

Tighten the pivot bolt to 10 Nm / 90 in-lbf.

⚠️ WARNING: The drive-side and non-drive-side Horst Flip Chips must be aligned in the same high or low position. Improperly installed Horst Flip Chips can damage the frame and lead to loss of control and falls.

ℹ️ INFO: All models are assembled with the Flip Chip in the high position. Setting it to the low position will lower the bottom bracket by approximately 7 mm and decrease the head tube angle by approximately 0.5 degrees.

7.2 Adjusting the Head Tube Angle

Fig. 7.2: The head tube angle is adjustable via the adjustable headset cups. The bicycle ships with a "zero" offset headset cup (A) and a +/- 1-degree headset cup (B) is located in the small parts box.

Fig. 7.3: Loosen the stem bolts that attach it to the fork's steerer tube. Loosen the top cap bolt (B) and remove it. Remove the stem (C) from the fork's steerer tube (D) and remove the fork from the frame (E). Select the desired headset cup and position (Fig 7.2) for the rider's desired geometry.

Fig. 7.4: Remove the zero-offset headset cup from the head tube and replace it with the +/- 1 degree headset cup.

Fig. 7.5: Install the headset parts, bearings, and cups into the frame. These parts fit snugly into the frame; no tools are required.

Fig. 7.6: When aligning the headset cup, the marking on the front of the bicycle indicates the current setting. Ensure the head tube and headset cup are free of dirt when changing the angle of the upper headset cup. Grease all parts with high-quality, water-repellent grease. All models are assembled with a zero offset headset cup. Replacing the headset cup raises or lowers the head tube angle by 1 degree. The lower headset cup is used for all adjustability options; the cup provides a spherical connection to the head tube and moves with the angle of the steerer tube.

Fig. 7.7: Slide the fork's steerer tube back through the head tube and headset (A). Install the stem onto the steerer tube (B). Install the top cap and compression bolt into the star nut in the fork (C). Tighten the bolt until all parts are firmly seated. The stem should move freely, and there should be no fore-and-aft play in the system. Squeeze the front brake and rock the bicycle back and forth several times with the stem bolts loosened to check that everything is secure. Re-tighten the upper headset cap (C) if necessary. Tighten the stem bolts to the recommended value.

Diagram Description: Figure 7.7 shows the reassembly of the fork, headset, and stem after adjusting the head angle. It illustrates inserting the steerer tube, installing the stem, top cap, and compression bolt, and checking for play.

8.1 Setting the Air Pressure

1. Set the shock absorber's compression lever or knob (blue) to the fully open or off position, and set the rebound knob to the middle of its click range.
2. Install a high-pressure shock pump onto the air valve and set your shock absorber to the pressure calculated by the suspension calculator.
3. To check sag, push the O-ring against the seal, then place the supported bicycle against a wall and sit on the saddle in a normal riding position, without bouncing the suspension. Do not set sag while riding!

Sag is measured as the distance between the O-ring and the shock absorber seal after the bicycle has been properly set up based on rider weight, without bouncing. If the pressure is set correctly, sag should be approximately 15.5 mm of travel, depending on rider experience/preference and terrain conditions. If the rider weighs 135 kg (300 lbs) or more, the sag may exceed the bicycle's recommended value.

To equalize air pressure, compress the shock absorber or fork slightly after each air pressure adjustment.

CAUTION: Do not exceed the maximum pressure indicated by the shock absorber manufacturer. Consult the shock absorber manufacturer's specifications for maximum shock absorber pressure.

8.2 Adjusting Rebound

Rebound damping (red knob) controls the speed at which the shock absorber returns after compression. Each rear shock absorber has a range of rebound clicks to precisely adjust the return speed.

Set the rebound based on the range indicated in the suspension setup tool and based on bicycle settings, rider weight, and other factors such as rider experience/preference and terrain conditions. If necessary, fine-tune the suspension while riding. If you do not have access to the suspension setup tool, start in the middle of the click range.

• Clockwise for slower rebound (heavier riders, low speed, larger impacts).
• Counter-clockwise for faster rebound (lighter riders, higher speed, small bumps, more traction).

It is recommended not to deviate too much from the recommended clicks. Excessive deviation from the allowed range can negatively impact the riding experience.

8.3 Adjusting Compression

Compression damping (blue knob) controls the amount of shock absorber platform support. In other words, the shock absorber's ability to resist low-speed pedaling forces while absorbing high-speed compression forces.

Consult the suspension manual for more information on the suspension options your suspension offers. A suspension generally features some or all of the following settings:

• OPEN: Low-speed compression setting optimized for a perfect balance of control and smoothness on steep and aggressive descents.
• PEDAL (certain models): Medium low-speed compression setting is engaged for an optimal combination of pedaling efficiency and control of your bicycle on variable terrain.
• LOCKOUT: Firmest low-speed compression setting is engaged for maximum pedaling efficiency.

Installation Procedure:

Fig. 9.1: Install the UDH hanger into the frame's dropout.

Fig. 9.2: Push the UDH hanger forward until it is fully seated in its intended space or contacts the rotating stop.

Apply grease ONLY to the thru-axle threads. Do not apply grease to the frame, UDH hanger, or UDH bolt threads.

The hanger must be fully seated in its intended space or resting against the frame stop when tightened to the prescribed torque.

Fig. 9.3: Install the UDH washer and then insert the UDH bolt through the washer and into the hanger.

Fig. 9.4: Tighten the bolt to 25 Nm / 221 in-lbf. The UDH hanger bolt has left-hand thread.

A reversible (left and right-hand thread) torque wrench MUST be used to tighten the left-hand thread bolt to the correct torque value.

Fig. 9.5: Apply grease to the thru-axle threads before installing the axle.

Fig. 9.5: Install the thru-axle and wheel, and tighten the rear axle to 15 Nm / 133 in-lbf.

⚠️ WARNING! Before and after every ride, check that the UDH hanger is still securely fastened and has not moved.