Joysway DragonFlite 95 2.4GHz RTR Racing Sailboat

Product Overview

The Joysway DragonFlite 95 is a 950mm 2.4GHz RTR (Ready To Race) High Performance Racing Sailboat. This manual provides detailed instructions for assembly, rigging, setup, and operation. It is intended for use by individuals aged 14 and above, with adult supervision recommended for assembly and operation.

Specifications:

• Length: 950mm
• Beam: 125mm
• Rig height: 1050mm
• Overall height: 1470mm
• RTR total weight: 2000g (Batteries not included)
• Sail area (Mainsail): 2314cm²
• Sail area (Jib): 1422cm²
• Sail area (Overall): 3736cm²
• Hull material: Moulded plastic with painted finish and logo sticker
• Requires: 4pcs AA battery for transmitter & 4pcs AA battery for receiver

For more information, visit: www.dfracing.world

Box Contents

The box contains the following components:

• Hull
• Mast
• Main Boom
• Jib Boom
• Mainsail
• Jib Sail
• Deck Eye 1, 2, 3, 4
• Sliding Deck Plate
• Mainsheet Bridle
• Jib Deck Hook
• Backstay Crane
• Mast Stub
• Masthead Plug
• Dyneema Cord
• Fittings Pack
• Tape
• Adhesive Deck Patches
• Deck Hatch Cover
• On/Off Switch
• Allen Keys (1.5, 2.0, 2.5mm)
• Spare Winchline
• Elastic

Items Required for Completion:

• Eight 'AA' Alkaline batteries (Four for the transmitter, four for the Receiver Battery Box).
• Thin CA glue (cyanoacrylate/superglue).
• A pair of thin nosed pliers and a sharp craft knife or scalpel.

Basic Boat Terminology

Understanding the parts of the sailboat is crucial for assembly and sailing:

• BOW: The front of the boat.
• STERN: The back of the boat.
• PORT: The left side of the boat when viewed from the Stern.
• STARBOARD: The right side of the boat when viewed from the Stern.
• HULL: The body of the boat.
• DECK: The upper surface of the Hull.
• KEEL: A weighted blade providing lateral stability.
• RUDDER: The hinged vertical blade at the Stern used for steering.
• FORESTAY: Supports the mast from the front.
• TOPPING LIFT: Supports the boom when the sail is not under tension.
• JIB SAIL: The foresail.
• LUFF: The front edge of a sail.
• JIB BOOM: The spar extending the Jib.
• COUNTERWEIGHT: Adds stability to the hull.
• JIBSHEET: The control line for the Jib.
• KEEL BULB: The weighted part of the keel.
• BACKSTAY CRANE: Attaches the backstay to the mast.
• LEECH: The back edge of a sail.
• MAINSAIL: The mainsail.
• BACKSTAY: Supports the mast from the rear.
• COMPRESSION STRUT: Adjusts mainsail leech tension.
• BOWSIE: An adjuster for lines.
• MAIN BOOM: The spar extending the Mainsail.
• MAINSHEET: The control line for the Mainsail.

Display Stand Assembly

1. Identify all stand components.
2. Bolt the plastic components together using the supplied nuts and bolts.
3. Construct the leg sections, ensuring all tubes are of equal length.
4. Fit the three stretcher tubes.
5. Attach the soft EVA foam supports to the top surface of the stand to protect the Hull from scratches.

Keel & Keel Bulb Assembly

1. Identify all Keel & Bulb components.
2. Insert plastic 'Shoes' into the bulb slot.
3. Tip: Mark the centers of the threaded holes on the side of the Fixing Disk to aid alignment.
4. Insert the Fixing Disk into the Keel's pre-drilled hole, aligning the threaded holes. Screw in the hex-head bolt to ensure alignment, then secure with tape temporarily and remove the bolt.
5. Slide the Keel into the Bulb between the Plastic Shoes and secure with the hex-head bolt.
6. Repeat step 4 for the top fixing.
7. Slide the top of the Keel into the Hull and secure with the remaining hex-head bolt.

Mainsail Rigging

1. Fit the wire Mainsail Luff Rings to all six eyelets on the Mainsail Luff.
2. Slide the Mast Stub into the Mast base, ensuring the bevelled edge faces downwards.
3. Slide the Main Boom assembly onto the Mast Stub from below.
4. Slide all Mainsail Luff Rings down the Mast.
5. Push the Backstay Crane and Masthead Plug into the top of the Mast. Cut a 250mm length of Dyneema and tie the Mainsail head to the Backstay Crane, aligning the top of the sail with the mast reinforcement ring. Tie with a single strand of Dyneema to allow the sail to swivel.
6. Cut a 300mm length of Dyneema for the Cunningham (downhaul). Tie one end to the Gooseneck fitting, thread through the bottom eyelet of the Mainsail Luff, back through the Gooseneck eye, along the Boom, through a Bowsie, the Compression Strut fitting, and back through the Bowsie.
7. Hook the Mainsail Clew onto the Mainsail Clew Hook.
8. Use pliers to slightly close the Hook's open end to prevent the sail eye slipping off.
9. Cut a 900mm length of Dyneema for the Backstay. Tie one end to the Backstay Crane and the other end to a 6mm metal ring.
10. Attach the Mast and rigged Mainsail to the Mast Socket in the Hull.
11. For the adjustable lower Backstay, cut a 500mm length of Dyneema. Tie a loop in one end, thread the other end through the first two holes of a Bowsie, then through the metal ring at the bottom of the Backstay, and back through the Bowsie. Hook the loop into the Transom hook and apply light tension. Position the Bowsie midway and tie off.
12. Adjust the Compression Strut for light tension on the Mainsail Leech, then back it off one turn for slight twist. Apply light tension to the Luff with the Cunningham.
13. Set the Backstay length as shown in the diagram.
14. Adjust the position of Silicon Rings SR5 & SR6 and the Mainsail Clew Hook so the Mainsail Foot forms a curve with approximately 25mm between the boom tube center and the sail foot midpoint.

Jib Boom Setup

1. Set the Jib Sheet Guide and Silicon Ring SR1 to the indicated position.
2. Cut a 450mm length of Dyneema for the Jib Boom hook-down. Tie a loop (approx. 25mm) and secure with CA glue. Mark 65mm from the knot.
3. Thread the Hook-Down line: start with the loose end through the lower eyelet of the Boom Joiner, then the top eyelet, back down through the lower eyelet, along the underside of the Boom, through the first two holes of a Bowsie, through the Front End Fitting's rear eyes, back through the Bowsie's final hole. Do not tie the final knot yet. Adjust the cord so the mark is at the lower edge of the Boom Joiner. Position the Bowsie midway between the front end fitting and the boom joiner, then tie off.
4. Rigging Procedure: Insert the Mast into the Mast Socket. Slacken the Jib Hook-Down Bowsie, thread the loop through Deck Eye 1, lead it back through Deck Eye 2, and hook it over the Jib Deck Hook. Tighten the Bowsie to bring the Jib Boom as low as possible. Hook the Backstay onto the Transom hook and tension the Backstay Bowsie.
5. To de-rig, reverse the process. This rigging method eliminates the need to adjust the Forestay tension, ensuring quick and easy rig trim.
6. Slacken the Jib Hook-Down Bowsie, thread the loop through the front Deck Eye (Deck Eye 1), lead it back through Deck Eye 2 and hook it over the Jib Deck Hook. Tighten the hook-down Bowsie to get the Jib Boom as low to the deck as possible.
7. Cut a 200mm length of Dyneema for the top of the Forestay. Tie one end to the Forestay wire loop, thread through the first two holes of a Bowsie, through the metal ring, and back through the Bowsie's final eye. Apply tension until the Jib Luff starts to wrinkle. Cut a 150mm length of Dyneema and tie the Jib's top eyelet to the Forestay wire loop with enough tension to remove wrinkles. Ensure a 5mm gap between the Jib Foot and the Front End Fitting. Use the Jib Cunningham Bowsie to fine-tune Jib Luff tension.
8. Set the mast rake (angle) by adjusting the Forestay Bowsie according to the rig diagram. Significant Forestay and Backstay tension is required for rig stability and consistent handling.
9. Cut a 1000mm length of Dyneema for the Topping Lift. Tie one end to the Forestay metal ring and the other end to the ring attached to the Jib Boom's Bowsie adjuster. Adjust the Bowsie to allow slight slack in the Jib Leech.
10. Adjust the position of Silicon Rings SR2/3 and the Jib Clew Hook so the Jib Foot forms a curve with approximately 25mm between the boom tube center and the sail foot midpoint.
11. Rigging is now complete. The following sections cover fitting 'Sheets' (control lines) to the Booms and setting the rig for optimal performance and trim.
12. Fit the clear Deck Hatch and seal it with an adhesive Deck Patch to create a waterproof seal.

Sheeting Setup

1. Adjust the bowsies on the mainsheet bridle to centrally position the metal sheeting ring. This is crucial for consistent sheeting angles on both port and starboard tacks.
2. For initial Jib and Mainsheet setup, pull the winchline to the close-hauled (fully sheeted in) position and do not move it until both sheets are installed.
3. Cut a 600mm length of Dyneema for the Mainsheet. Tie a loop in one end and clip it to the Winch Line Clip (a). Run it forward, through the metal ring on the Mainsheet Bridle (b), up through the Mainsheet Guide (c) on the Mainboom, back along the boom through the 'O' Ring (d), through the first two holes in a Bowsie (e), back through the first hole in the Boom Joiner (f), and forward through the final hole in the Bowsie (g). With the Mainboom centered, position the bowsie midway between (c) and (f), then tie off.
4. Cut an 850mm length of Dyneema for the Jibsheet. Tie a loop in one end and clip it to the Winch Line Clip (a). Run it forward under the Mainsheet Bridle (b), through Deck Eye 3 (c), up through the Jibsheet Guide (d), forward under the Jib Boom, through the 'O'Ring (e), through the first two holes of a Bowsie (f), forward through the rear hole in the Boom Joiner (g), and back through the final hole in the Bowsie (h). Hold the Jib Boom's rear end over the Hull's gunwale, position the bowsie midway between (d) and (g), then tie off.
5. With the winchline still in the fully sheeted in position, adjust the Bowsies on the Jibsheet and Mainsheet so the boom rear ends are in the positions shown in Diagram 5. If the 128mm winchline travel is set correctly, the booms should be in the positions shown when sheeted out.
6. Fine-tune the amount of twist in the leeches of both sails. Mainsail twist is controlled by the Compression Strut, and Jib twist by the Topping Lift Bowsie. Refer to the diagrams for correct rig settings.

Powering Up the Boat

If you purchased the 'Ready To Race' version, the Joysway Transmitter and Receiver are pre-bound. If using your own equipment, ensure you are familiar with its functions.

1. Connect the Servo, Winch, and Battery Switch cables to the Receiver: Rudder Servo to Channel 1, Sail Winch to Channel 3, and On/Off Switch to the Battery socket.
2. Install four AA batteries into the Battery Holder and connect them to the On/Off Switch lead.
3. With both transmitter control sticks centered, switch on the boat's On/Off Switch.
4. Direction Check: Verify that the rudder and sail winch operate in the correct direction. If reversed, consult your transmitter manual for reversing the stick actions.
5. Rudder Centering: With the rudder control stick and fine adjuster centered, check if the Rudder Blade is aligned with the Keel. Adjust the top grub screw on the Rudder Arm if necessary.
6. Winch Line Setup: Set the sheeted-in (close-hauled) position by moving the sail winch control stick fully down. If the winch line clip is not in the correct position, unscrew and rotate the drum on the Sail Winch. The ideal winch line travel between fully sheeted in and out is 128mm. Mark these positions on the deck for consistent adjustment.

Basic Sailing Terminology & How To Sail

Sailing requires constant reaction to wind and water conditions. Understanding terminology and practicing on the water are key to mastering the sport.

Key Sailing Terms:

• Beam Reach: Sails at 45°, Rudder centered.
• Broad Reach: Sails let out slightly, Rudder to the left.
• Starboard Tack-Running: Sails fully out, Rudder centered.
• Port Tack-Running: Sails fully out, Rudder centered.
• Starboard Tack - Close Hauled: Sails pulled in, Rudder centered (as long as sails don't flap).
• Port Tack - Close Hauled: Sails pulled in, Rudder to the right.
• Tacking: Sails pulled in, Rudder to the right (port tack) or left (starboard tack).
• Bearing Away: Sails let out, Rudder to the left.
• Luffing Up: Sails pulled in, Rudder to the left.

Important Notice:

• Only sail the DragonFlite 95 in still water; avoid rivers or tidal waters.
• Never attempt to swim after a stalled or stuck boat; wait for it to drift ashore or be rescued.

Maintenance

Proper rigging and maintenance are essential for the longevity of your boat.

• Wash bearings in clean, fresh water after each use, especially if sailing in saltwater.
• Lubricate bearings regularly with bearing lube.
• Wash the entire boat and rig with clean, fresh water after each outing if sailing in saltwater.
• Open the Hatch Cover after sailing to allow the interior to dry completely. Avoid storing the boat with moisture inside to prevent corrosion and electrical failure.
• Dyneema cord can shrink; check rig settings regularly.
• Handle and store sails with care. Lay the boat on a soft surface with the rig downwind. Use a rigid rig box or bag for storage.

Spare Parts List

A comprehensive list of available spare parts is provided, including various rig components, hull parts, and electronic components. Refer to the item numbers for ordering.