SINGER Sewing Machine Model 223: Instructions

Congratulations!

As the owner of a SINGER Sewing Machine/Model 223, you are about to enter a wonderful new world of sewing! From the moment you begin to sew on your Model 223, you will be delighted with its easy, dependable operation, featuring perfect straight stitching, zig-zag stitching in a variety of widths and stitch lengths, and blind stitching at the flip of a switch.

We recommend that, before you begin to sew, you discover all the many advantages of your Model 223 by going through this instruction book step by step while seated at your machine.

SINGER service is always close at hand. If your sewing machine should need servicing, call your local SINGER CENTER to be sure of warranted SINGER parts and service. You will find the address under THE SINGER COMPANY in the classified telephone directory.

Principal Parts of Sewing Machine/Model 223

The following lists and descriptions correspond to the numbered diagrams of the sewing machine and its accessories.

Sewing Machine Components:

• 1. Spool Pin: Holds the spool of thread.
• 2. Hand Wheel: Controls movement of the take-up lever and needle. Always turn it toward you.
• 3. Bobbin Winder Spindle: Holds the bobbin for winding thread.
• 4. Stitch Length Lever: Controls forward and reverse stitching speed, indicated by the number of stitches per inch.
• 5. Bobbin Winder Tension Bracket: Regulates thread tension for bobbin winding.
• 6. Feed Lowering Dial: Used for free-motion work; drops the feed dog below the throat plate, allowing control of fabric feeding.
• 7. Stitch Width Dial: Setting 0 is for straight stitching; numbers indicate stitch width for zig-zag stitching.
• 8. Blind Stitch Lever: Engages the blind stitch function.
• 9. Needle-Thread Tension Dial: Allows for exact, easy-to-duplicate settings for needle thread tension.
• 10. Hinged Bed Plate: Swings up for removal and replacement of the bobbin.
• 11. Feed Dog: Feeds fabric as it is being stitched.
• 12. Throat Plate: Features numbered guidelines to help keep seams straight.
• 13. Presser Foot: Holds fabric against the feed dog.
• 14. Thread Cutter: Cuts thread conveniently and safely.
• 15. Presser Foot Lever: Located at the back of the machine, it raises and lowers the presser foot.
• 16. Pressure Regulating Screw: Regulates the degree of pressure exerted on the fabric by the presser foot.
• 17. Take-Up Lever: Guides the needle thread.

Electrical Components:

• 18. Plug: Connects the machine to the power source. Ensure voltage and cycles match your power company's meter.
• 19. Electrical Foot Controller: Controls the machine's speed; pressing harder results in faster sewing.

How to Thread the Machine

Your sewing machine uses two threads: an upper thread from the spool and a lower thread from the bobbin. It is recommended to wind the bobbin before threading the needle.

The Bobbin Thread

To Remove the Bobbin:

1. Turn the hand wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest position.
2. Raise the hinged bed plate.
3. Reach down with your left hand, open the bobbin case latch, and lift out the bobbin case.
4. Release the latch and remove the bobbin from the bobbin case.

To Wind the Bobbin:

1. Stop the needle's motion by loosening the stop-motion screw. Hold the hand wheel with your left hand while turning the stop-motion screw toward you with your right hand.
2. Lift the bobbin winder away from the hand wheel and place the bobbin on the spindle.
3. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin, pass the thread through the eyelet, and around the tension discs.
4. Draw thread from the inside, through a hole in the left side of the bobbin.
5. Press the bobbin winder down against the hand wheel, ensuring the sides of the bobbin straddle the bobbin winder stop (metal strip).
6. Hold the thread end and start the machine. The thread end will break off after a few coils have been wound.
7. Do not guide or hold the thread while winding the bobbin; let the machine do the work. Winding will stop when the bobbin is full.
8. Raise the bobbin winder away from the hand wheel, remove the bobbin, and cut the thread. Then, retighten the stop-motion screw by turning it away from you with the right hand, while holding the hand wheel with the left hand.

If Bobbin Does Not Wind Evenly:

Loosen the screw that holds the tension bracket. If the bobbin winds high on the left, move the bracket to the right. If it winds high on the right, move the bracket to the left. Retighten the screw.

To Replace the Bobbin:

1. Hold the bobbin so that thread unwinds in the direction shown, and put the bobbin in the bobbin case.
2. Pull the thread into the notch, draw it under the tension spring, and into the slot. Allow about 3 inches of thread to hang freely from the bobbin case.
3. Hold the bobbin case by its latch and place it on the spindle of the shuttle body so that the position finger enters the notch at the top of the shuttle. Release the latch and press the bobbin case until it clicks into place.
4. Close the hinged bed plate.

The Needle Thread:

1. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin at the top of the machine.
2. Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the take-up lever to its highest position.
3. Lead the thread through the threading points shown. Thread the needle from front to back (an arrow on the throat plate will remind you).
4. Draw about 3 inches of thread through the eye of the needle.

Raising the Bobbin Thread:

Now that you have wound the bobbin and threaded the needle, you will need to raise the bobbin thread through the hole in the throat plate.

1. Hold the needle thread lightly with your left hand and turn the hand wheel slowly toward you so that the needle enters the throat plate.
2. Continue turning the hand wheel and holding the needle thread until the needle rises and brings the bobbin thread up in a loop.
3. Undo the loop with your finger.
4. Place both needle and bobbin threads under the presser foot and lay them diagonally to the right.

You are now ready to sew.

Straight Stitching

Before you begin straight stitch, set the Stitch Width Dial to 0 and the Blind Stitch Lever at OFF.

How to Adjust the Machine for Your Fabric:

With your sewing machine, you can adjust settings for stitch length, pressure, and needle-thread tension to stitch perfectly on a wide variety of fabrics.

Fabric, Needle, and Stitch Length Table:

To Change the Needle:

1. Raise the needle bar to its highest position by turning the hand wheel toward you.
2. Loosen the needle-clamp screw and remove the needle.
3. Insert new needle in clamp, with the flat side of the needle toward the back and the long groove toward you. Push it up as far as it will go.
4. Tighten the needle-clamp screw.

Note: This machine uses needle Catalog 2020 (15x1), available in sizes 9, 11, 14, 16 and 18.

To Adjust Stitch Length:

The Stitch Length Lever has two functions: it controls the number of stitches per inch, and it lets you sew either forward or in reverse. The numbers on either side of the lever represent the number of stitches per inch; the higher the number, the shorter the stitch. As the Stitch Length Lever is moved up in the FINE area, stitch length diminishes to the vanishing point (the FINE area is used for zig-zag stitching only). Generally, shorter stitches are best for lightweight fabric; longer ones for heavy fabric.

To set stitch length:

• Loosen the thumb nut by turning it to the left.
• Position the lever for the desired stitch length.
• Tighten the thumb nut by turning it to the right.

For reverse stitching, simply raise the lever as far as it will go. Do not loosen the thumb nut to reverse.

To Adjust Pressure:

The pressure screw regulates the pressure that the presser foot exerts on the fabric. Correct pressure is important because it means that the fabric feeds smoothly and evenly, without being marred. Generally, heavy fabric requires heavy pressure; lightweight fabric, light pressure. Fabric texture must also be considered. Soft fabrics require less pressure than crisp fabrics for smooth feeding. If the fabric is spongy or has a pile (like velvet), use fairly low pressure to prevent crushing.

• To increase pressure, turn the screw downward.
• To decrease pressure, turn the screw upward.

Note: Pressure on fabric can also be decreased by lowering the feed dog slightly (refer to the Feed Lowering Dial on page 27).

To Adjust Thread Tension:

The Tension Dial regulates the degree of tension on your needle thread, allowing you to select the right setting for your fabric and thread. The numbers eliminate guesswork in duplicating settings. Correct tension is crucial, as too much or too little will weaken your seams. To determine the correct tension, make a test on a small sample of your fabric.

Needle-Thread Tension:

If the fabric puckers, decrease needle-thread tension. If the stitches look loose, increase tension.

• To increase tension, turn the dial to a higher number.
• To decrease tension, turn the dial to a lower number.

Bobbin-Thread Tension:

You will seldom need to adjust bobbin-thread tension, as it is usually possible to obtain a balanced stitch by adjusting the needle-thread tension alone. Should it be necessary, you can regulate bobbin-thread tension by turning the screw on the bobbin case.

• If bobbin-thread tension is too tight, correct by turning the screw counterclockwise.
• If bobbin-thread tension is too loose, correct by turning the screw clockwise.

A very slight turn of the screw will produce a noticeable change in bobbin-thread tension.

How to Sew a Seam:

To Start a Seam:

1. Set the Stitch Length Lever for the desired number of stitches per inch.
2. With the presser foot up, align the fabric with the appropriate seam guide line on the throat plate. Position the needle in the fabric about 1/2 inch from the edge.
3. Lower the presser foot and raise the Stitch Length Lever to reverse.
4. Backstitch to the edge of the material for reinforcement.
5. Lower the Stitch Length Lever for forward stitching, and stitch.

To Keep the Seam Straight:

Use one of the numbered lines on the throat plate as a guide to keep the seam straight. Numbers indicate distance, in 1/8ths of an inch, from the needle. For example, if you want a 5/8" seam, line up your fabric with line 5.

To Guide and Support Fabric:

Most fabrics need to be guided in front of the presser foot only. Some fabrics, however, require support while being stitched:

• For filmy sheers, knits, etc., apply gentle tension by holding the seam in front and back of the presser foot.
• For stretch fabrics, apply firm tension front and back when stitching in the same direction as the stretch. For seams not on the stretch direction, stitch in a conventional manner, guiding fabric in front of the presser foot.

To End a Seam:

1. Stitch to the fabric edge. Raise the Stitch Length Lever as far as it will go, and backstitch to reinforce the end of the seam.
2. Turn the hand wheel to bring the take-up lever to its highest point.
3. Raise the presser foot and remove the fabric.
4. Cut threads on the thread cutter at the rear of the presser bar. Lower the Stitch Length Lever for forward stitching.

How to Sew Darts

Darts can be made by either of two methods: "regular" and "continuous thread."

Regular Darts:

1. Stitch from the seam edge, tapering gradually to the point.
2. Stitch beyond the fabric to form a thread chain 1/2" to 3/4" long.
3. Tie the thread ends into a single knot close to the stitching.

Continuous-Thread Darts:

The continuous-thread method is particularly useful for darts in sheer fabrics, where transparency requires a neat, clean finish. It is also useful for darts made on the outside of a garment as a styling detail.

1. Unthread the needle. Pull up the bobbin thread and draw it through the needle from back to front.
2. Tie bobbin and upper threads together, and draw the knot through the threading points toward the spool until enough of the bobbin thread has passed the thread guide nearest the spool to complete stitching the full length of the dart. Make sure there is no slack thread between spool and bobbin.
3. Stitch from the point of the dart toward the edge of the garment, and backstitch to reinforce.

Zig-Zag Stitching

With your SINGER sewing machine Model 223, you can do two kinds of zig-zag stitching: plain zig-zag and blind stitching.

Plain Zig-Zag Stitching:

Before you begin zig-zag stitching, set the Blind Stitch Lever at OFF and choose a stitch width. Numbers 1 through 5 at the side of the Stitch Width Dial indicate the width of the stitch; the higher the number, the wider the stitch. Settings between the numbers can also be used. Raise the needle above the fabric before changing stitch width.

When you are preparing to do zig-zag stitching, make a test sample first so that you can adjust stitch length and needle-thread tension properly. If you need to adjust pressure, see page 13.

To Adjust Stitch Length:

For open zig-zag stitching, choose any stitch length from 6 through the bottom of the FINE area, depending on how open you wish the stitches to be.

If you wish a closely packed satin stitch:

1. Move the Stitch Length Lever to the bottom of the FINE area.
2. Run the machine at slow speed.
3. Gradually tighten the thumb nut by turning it to the right, until stitches are closely spaced and form a smooth surface.

To Adjust Needle-Thread Tension:

All zig-zag stitching requires less tension than straight stitching, and satin stitching requires even less than open zig-zag stitching. Furthermore, the wider the satin stitch, the lighter the tension on the thread must be. Thus, stitch width 5 requires the least tension; narrower satin stitching requires somewhat more.

Notice the stitching on your sample. If the stitching looks too taut, or if the fabric is puckering, lower the needle-thread tension by turning the Tension Dial to a lower number.

Lingerie Seams:

Dainty lingerie seams can be made durable with plain zig-zag stitching.

1. After straight-stitching the seam on the wrong side, press both seam allowances in the same direction.
2. From the right side, top-stitch with a fine zig-zag setting (width 2), letting the needle alternately enter the seam line and the seam thickness.

Seam Finishes:

Seam edges support the garment and should be given a durable finish if the fabric is likely to ravel.

1. Set the Stitch Width Dial at 4 or 5.
2. Trim seam edges evenly.
3. Place stitching near the edge of the seam allowance or over the raw edge, as illustrated.

Seams can also be finished with a blind stitch (described on page 26).

Flat Felled Seams:

Zig-zag stitching gives strength and durability to flat felled seams.

1. Set stitch width at 3.
2. Form the seam on the right side of the fabric, taking the full seam allowance.
3. Press the seam to one side, keeping the right side of the zig-zag stitch uppermost.
4. Trim half the under-seam allowance. Then turn the upper seam edge evenly over the trimmed seam, and top-stitch.

Knit Fabric Seams:

A fine zig-zag stitch is ideal for seaming knit fabrics, particularly for underarm seams where elasticity and give are needed. For neckline and waistline seams, where a stay is needed to prevent undue stretching, this stitch can be used to apply seam tape.

To stay a knit seam:

1. Set stitch width at about 2.
2. Set stitch length at about 20.
3. If the seam is curved, preshape tape to fit by steam pressing.
4. Baste tape in place.
5. Stitch, allowing the needle to enter seam tape and seam allowance alternately.

Buttonholes:

For buttonholes, use a satin stitch as described on page 21. You will need two stitch width settings: one for side stitching and one for the bar tacks. Depending on the size of the buttonhole, you can use either stitch width 2 and 4, or 3 and 5.

Always make a test buttonhole on a sample of your fabric, duplicating the thickness of the garment and including interfacing if appropriate.

1. Mark the button length on the garment. Add at least 1/4" for each bar tack.
2. For the side stitching, set stitch width at 2 (or 3). Position the needle in the fabric at point A, lower the presser foot, and stitch down to point B. Leave the needle in the fabric. Raise the presser foot and pivot the work on the needle. Lower the foot and take one stitch. Leave the needle in the fabric at point C.
3. For the bar tack, with the needle in fabric, lift the presser foot, and set stitch width at 4 (or 5). Lower the presser foot and take approximately six stitches to complete the tack at point D. Leave the needle in fabric.
4. For side stitching, with the needle in fabric, lift the presser foot and reset stitch width at 2 (or 3). Lower the presser foot; stitch to point E. Leave the needle in fabric.
5. For the final bar tack, with the needle in fabric, lift the presser foot and set stitch width at 4 (or 5). Lower the presser foot and duplicate the tack previously made at point F. Leave the needle in fabric.
6. For the fastening stitch, lift the presser foot and set stitch width at 0. Lower the foot and take approximately 3 stitches.
7. Remove work, draw threads to the wrong side, and trim. Cut opening for button with a pair of sharp embroidery scissors.

Blind Stitching:

Set the Blind Stitch Lever at ON and choose a stitch width. Set stitch length as desired. Adjust thread tension as described on page 21. If necessary, adjust pressure as described on page 13.

Blind Stitch Hems:

Blind stitching provides a durable hem finish that is invisible and comparable to hand sewing. It is best suited to straight and slightly curved hems. Taped, bound, turned, or unfinished hem edges can be blind stitched with equal ease. Blind stitching takes practice, so make a test sample first.

1. Mark, turn, and press the hem in the usual way.
2. Baste a guideline 1/4" from the top of the hem edge.
3. Place the hem edge over the feed of the machine, turning the bulk of the fabric to the left, thus creating a soft fold.
4. Stitch so that straight stitches fall on the hem edge and sideward stitches pierce the soft fold.

Overedged Seam Finish:

For an overedged seam, the blind stitch makes a durable, bulkless finish, particularly suitable for lengthwise seams.

1. Trim seam edges evenly.
2. Form the stitch over the raw fabric edge.

Free-motion Work

To prepare for free-motion work, either darning or monograms, set the Blind Stitch Lever at OFF and turn the Feed Lowering Dial clockwise to lower the feed dog. Then remove the presser foot.

To Remove the Presser Foot:

1. Raise the presser foot.
2. Loosen the presser foot screw. (You do not need to remove the screw.)
3. Remove the presser foot.

To Replace Presser Foot:

1. Hook the presser foot around the presser bar.
2. Tighten the presser foot screw.

Darning:

1. Trim ragged edges from the area to be darned.
2. Center the worn section in the embroidery hoop.
3. Set Stitch Width Dial at 0 and Stitch Length Lever in the FINE area.
4. Position work under the needle and lower the presser bar to engage tension.
5. Hold needle thread loosely with your left hand, turn the hand wheel toward you, and draw bobbin thread up through the fabric. Hold both threads and the needle into the fabric.
6. Outline the area to be darned with running stitches for reinforcement. Place stitches about 1/8" from the edge of the open area.
7. Stitch across the opening, moving the hoop with a slight angle from lower left to upper right. Keep lines of stitching closely spaced and even in length.
8. When opening is filled, turn the hoop 90 degrees and continue stitching until the darn is complete.

Monograms and Script Lettering:

You can buy designs for monograms or script lettering, or create them yourself. Always make a sample first to find the right stitch settings and spacing. Set stitch length in the FINE area and set Stitch Width Dial between 2 and 5. The Blind Stitch Lever should be at OFF.

1. Transfer the design (by tracing, usually) to the right side of the fabric.
2. If the fabric is soft or loosely woven, baste a backing of lawn or organdy onto the wrong side.
3. Place work in an embroidery hoop. Be sure the fabric is held taut.
4. Position work under the needle; lower the presser bar to engage tension.
5. Turn the hand wheel toward you to bring the bobbin thread up through the fabric at the start of the design; hold both threads as you start stitching.
6. Stitch, following the outline of the lettering. Move the hoops slowly and maintain an even rate of speed so that stitches are uniformly spaced.
7. After stitching, trim the backing close to the stitching.

How to Take Care of Your Sewing Machine

Your sewing machine is a precision instrument that will serve you well if kept in good condition. The frequency of cleaning, oiling, and lubricating depends on usage and storage conditions. The following guidelines assume sewing two or three times a week.

Every Week or So:

Remove lint and fluff from exposed parts.

With a soft cloth, clean:

• Tension discs
• Take-up lever and thread guides
• Presser bar and needle bar
• Machine surface (arm and bed). Dampen the cloth slightly if necessary, but do not use detergents.

With a lint brush, clean:

• Feed dog
• Rotating hook
• Shuttle (for removal instructions, see page 30)
• Area under throat plate (for instructions, see page 30)

After each cleaning, apply a drop of SINGER oil to the areas shown. Then sew a line of stitching on a scrap of material to remove excess oil.

To Remove and Replace Throat Plate:

To Remove:

1. Remove two screws and lift off the throat plate and bed plate as a unit.
2. Hold the throat and bed plate bottom side up and press the throat plate downward to disengage it. Slide the throat plate to the right and disengage the bed plate.

To Replace:

1. Fit pin 1 on the underside of the bed plate over groove 1 in the throat plate.
2. Press the throat plate down toward the bed plate while assembling the stop plate of the bed plate to the spring of the throat plate.
3. Fit pin 2 of the bed plate to groove 2 of the throat plate.

To Remove and Replace Shuttle:

To Remove:

1. Tilt the machine back.
2. Turn the hand wheel until the needle bar is at its highest point.
3. Remove the bobbin case.
4. Push the shuttle race latches out toward the left and right, then open the shuttle race gate. The shuttle can now be easily removed.
5. Clean and apply oil to the shuttle area.

To Replace:

1. Turn the hand wheel until the needle bar is at its highest point.
2. Replace the shuttle with its point in the position shown in the illustration. Close the shuttle race gate and lock it in position by pushing the latch back into the slot.
3. Replace the bobbin case.

Every Few Months:

1. Clean and oil the area behind the face plate: Loosen the screw on the face plate, remove it, oil the indicated places, and replace the face plate.
2. Raise the hinged bed plate and apply a drop of oil to the shuttle raceway.
3. Remove the plate at the back of the machine by loosening the thumb screw. Apply a drop of oil to each indicated point. Replace the plate.
4. Tilt the machine back and oil each of the places indicated on the bottom of the machine.
5. Apply a drop of oil to each place indicated on the top of the machine and on the bed.

If the Machine is to be Stored:

1. Clean all exposed parts and the area behind the face plate.
2. Swab all exposed metal parts and parts behind the face plate with a lint brush saturated with SINGER oil to protect against rust.

To Adjust Belt Tension:

On rare occasions, you may need to adjust the tension on the motor belt. Tension should be just strong enough to keep the belt from slipping. If the belt is too tight, the machine will run slowly, which can overload and possibly damage the motor.

To Adjust:

1. Loosen the bracket screw a full turn.
2. Allow the weight of the motor to supply correct belt tension.
3. Tighten the bracket screw.

To Replace Light Bulb:

1. Turn off the light.
2. Unscrew the bulb by turning it away from you.
3. Screw the new bulb into the socket by turning the bulb toward you.

SINGER Guarantee

SINGER guarantees that each sewing machine is carefully manufactured and in perfect operating condition on delivery. Under normal family use and care, any parts requiring replacement due to defects in material or workmanship will be replaced without charge.

This guarantee does not apply to parts requiring replacement due to natural wear, abuse, or negligence, or if the machine is serviced by anyone other than a SINGER representative or Approved Dealer, or if parts other than those supplied by The Singer Company are used.

In addition, each machine will be inspected and adjusted whenever necessary without charge for labor for a period of one year from the date of purchase.

This guarantee is effective only with respect to the person making the purchase from The Singer Company or one of its Approved Dealers. The original Sales Agreement or Cash Receipt must be presented to obtain the benefits of the guarantee.

Agreements inconsistent with the foregoing shall be void and of no effect.

THE SINGER COMPANY

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