Manuals+

Fermenator™ G4 Assembly, Operation, & Maintenance

Congratulations on your purchase and thank you for selecting the Fermenator™ G4 from Blichmann Engineering™. We are confident that it will provide you years of service and many gallons of outstanding beer. This manual will familiarize you with the use, assembly, and the sanitation procedures for the product.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION

PLEASE READ AND THOROUGHLY UNDERSTAND THIS MANUAL PRIOR TO USE FOR IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION!

WARNING: Sections labeled “Warning” can lead to serious injury or death if not followed. Please thoroughly read these sections and understand them completely before use. If you do not understand them or have any questions, contact your retailer or Blichmann Engineering (www.BlichmannEngineering.com) before use.

CAUTION: Sections labeled "Caution” can lead to equipment damage or unsatisfactory performance of the equipment. Please read these sections thoroughly. If you have any questions, contact your retailer or Blichmann Engineering (www.BlichmannEngineering.com) before use.

IMPORTANT: Sections labeled “Important” should specifically be followed to ensure satisfactory results with the product.

ABOUT THIS MANUAL

This manual is for the G4-7 gallon, 14 gallon, 19 gallon, and 1 BBL models. This manual is broken down into the following sections:

What's In the Box?

Please check your box to make sure you have received all parts.

NOTE: Some parts will be partially assembled to protect them during shipment.

Item Number Description Quantity
BE-001740-00 G4 Fermenator™™ 1
FV-065-00 Tri-Clamp Thermometer 1
BE-001797-00 Racking Arm 1
BE-001717-00 Aseptic Valve Assembly 1
BE-500019-00 #8 Stopper 1
FV-029-00 Airlock 1
BE-000863-00 4" x 1.5" Adapter 1
BE-000865-00 1.5"TC Elbow 1
BE-000630-00 1.5″TC Butterfly Valve 1
BE-000627-00 1.5"TC Cap 3*
BE-000633-00 1" x 1" Barb 1
BE-000868-00 1.5"TC Clamp 8*
BE-001739-00 1.5" Gasket 8*
BE-001738-00 4"TC Clamp 1
BE-001758-00 4"TC Gasket 1
BE-001782-00 Foot 3
Squirt Bottle 1

*1BBL size includes two more pieces per indicated item

CLEANING AND SANITATION

After you have received your new equipment and removed it from the box it is very important that you properly clean the equipment thoroughly with a general detergent such as Dawn dish soap. This will remove any debris and oils that may have been left behind from shipping and the manufacturing processes.

Cleaning and sanitizing all your home brew equipment before every use is an important aspect of brewing. Using good cleaners and sanitizers can make the difference between having a great beer and a spoiled one. Good preparation for your upcoming brew day is key. Make a checklist of the equipment you will be using and note whether it needs to be sanitized or only cleaned. In prepping for your brew day, always make sure your equipment is ready to go when you are.

ALWAYS START WITH A CLEANING AGENT

Before you do any sanitizing, you need to thoroughly clean your equipment. Sanitizers do not work on equipment with soils on the surface, and bacteria and wild yeasts will remain. It is always best to immediately wash your equipment after use while the soils are soft and easier to remove.

There are a number of good cleaning agents on the market. One Step™, Straight-A™, and Powdered Brewery Wash™ (PBW) are three of the most popular. These products may be used on bottles, fermenters, and other equipment. Cleansers should be rinsed after use. Don't soak your equipment in a cleansing solutions for longer than the time recommended on the packaging or you can damage your equipment.

As with ALL chemicals, ALWAYS thoroughly read the instructions, material compatibility, and safety warnings. Never use more than the recommended concentrations or soaking times or you may damage your equipment.

CLEANING STAINLESS STEEL

For general cleaning of stainless steel, mild unscented detergents, PBW, or percarbonate-based cleaners are excellent choices. Bleach should not be used to clean or sanitize stainless steel as it will corrode and pit them.

SANITIZING

Only when your equipment is clean, can you sanitize it.

All items that contact the wort or beer below 140F need to be sanitized. This includes the fermentor (including the lid), airlock, rubber stopper, yeast rehydration or starter container, thermometer, funnel, spoon, and siphon etc. On bottling day, bottles, caps, hoses etc. also need to be sanitized. Chemical sanitizers can be prepared in a bucket and used throughout the brew day. Chemical sanitizers are by far the most common. Most can be used on metal, plastics and glass. Most do not require rinsing; a good feature since your tap water, particularly well water, may contain small amounts of bacteria. Again, always follow the manufacturer's recommendations for concentration, contact time, and the need to rinse before use.

Five Star Chemical's™ StarSan™ is one of the most popular sanitizers on the market. Always use according to the manufacturer's directions.

If you have a particularly tough stain, liked burned malt extract, stains, or other buildup, Barkeepers Friend (oxalic acid) works very well to remove them from metallic surfaces. This product is available at your local grocery store.

AFTER USE CLEANING

For keeping your equipment clean and looking new, we strongly recommend cleaning immediately after brewing as soils and residue will be much easier to remove before it dries. Never toss components in a bucket of cleaning agents “to clean tomorrow" as these chemicals may damage the product if you exceed the recommended contact time.

Once you've thoroughly cleaned your stainless products, wipe them dry with a towel and let them air dry thoroughly. A clean surface will instantly passivate once it is dry, leaving a durable corrosion resistant surface.

CLEAN IN PLACE (CIP)

The Blichmann CIP Spray Ball was specifically designed for use with homebrewing pumps and works great to quickly remove heavy soil from the fermentor after fermentation. Please refer to the product's manual for more information. Some surfaces and components, like the lid seal and upper tri-clamp gaskets may need to be sanitized individually after a sanitizer wash is circulated. Other attachments, including valves, carb stones, thermo-wells, and caps will need to be cleaned and sanitized individually by soaking/scrubbing as needed.

WARNING: Do NOT use any cleaner or sanitizer containing chlorine such as bleach. This will pit and erode stainless steel. If the ball valves ever begin to drip, remove the handle and tighten the packing nut under the handle. If this persists, replacement valve seal kits are available through your retailer.

PASSIVATION

Passivation is a natural chemical reaction with the chromium used in stainless steel and oxygen in the air. As long as stainless steel can react with oxygen, a 'passive' chromium oxide will form on the surface protecting the metal from corrosion. All of Blichmann Engineering's products have been passivated, but common manufacturing processes may leave free iron and an isolated area of corrosion may form. If this happens, it is recommended to passivate the tank. This can be as easy as scrubbing the effected area with a scouring pad or household chemicals can be used. Bar Keeper's Friend (BKF) is very effective at maintaining a passive surface on stainless steel. It aids in passivation of stainless steel and will help remove iron oxides. A routine scrub with BKF will keep the surface prepped for years to come.

Thoroughly dry all seals and o-rings and store them in a plastic bag and place inside the tank for the next use. Be sure to remove all the o-rings from the fittings to prevent from taking a "set". Install the lid and V-band clamp (without seal) to prevent dust from settling inside the unit during storage.

John Palmer also has a more in depth discussion about removing rust and how to passivate stainless steel at this link- https://tinyurl.com/passivation

ASSEMBLY

NOTE: We recommend a trial assembly of your new Fermenator™ G4 before using it to ferment so you are familiar with the procedures and are sure you have all the parts. When you are ready to use the fermentor for an actual brewing session, read the sanitizing procedures before assembling your Fermenator™™ since many parts are sanitized before assembly.

NOTE: Some of the components have not been pre-assembled at the factory to prevent shipping damage.

BOTTOM DUMP

Assemble the bottom dump assembly as shown in Figure 1 using a 1.5" gasket between each flange. Orient the clamps and valve as shown so that they clear the floor and tank and do not interfere with the rotation of the valve handle. Be sure the handle of the valve faces up, and that the handle rotates outward. Then attach the assembly onto the tank, again using a 1.5" gasket.

Figure 1

NOTE: Before each use soak all fittings, valves, o-rings and lid seal in a sanitizing solution. To ensure that the inside of the aseptic valve is sanitized, disassemble and soak in sanitizer.

NOTE: If you are using the optional leg extensions, it is not necessary to use the elbow, and this will allow the trub and yeast to flow more freely. Simply install the valve directly on to the bottom dump fitting. You'll be pressure testing all the fittings during the sanitation process, so if a leak is present you'll be able to tighten it then.

ASEPTIC VALVE AND ROTATING RACKING ARM

Install the 2 QuickConnect™ caps onto the ends of the aseptic valve. Mount the aseptic valve to the rotating racking arm as shown in Figure 2 with a tri-clamp and gasket. Install the racking arm and aseptic valve to the tank with a tri-clamp and gasket as shown in Figure 3 (leg lock)

Figure 2

Figure 3

Tip: The racking valve will always face the handles direction.

During operation, install the racking arm horizontally to keep this from filling with sediment.

LID ASSEMBLY

Assemble the Brass Tee-Handle and the Bolt as shown. Place around the lid and flange and engage the latch over the bolt. Initially tighten the clamp to about 1/2" (13mm) of gap between the band segments (Figure 5).

NOTE: ALWAYS apply a dab of Vaseline or drop of oil on the threads of the draw bolt before each use to prevent wear and galling of the threads. Galled or worn threads are NOT covered under warranty.

Figure 5

Figure 5.1

When installing the T-handle, ensure that there is no hex nut on the T-bolt.

If using the included airlock, install the 4" cap with gasket on the lid with the 4" tri-clamp. Install the #8 stopper with air lock as shown in Figure 6.

Figure 6

If using the blowoff or spunding valves, see those manuals for assembly and operation.

BEFORE USE, SPRAY ALL SURFACES WITH STARSAN AND ASSEMBLE

PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE (PRV)

Before inserting the sanitized PRV (Figure 7) into the lid (Figure 8), verify that the PRV cavity is clean and free of debris and foreign material. Sanitize the cavity and insert the PRV. Do not over tighten the cap. Pull on the ring to verify that operation is smooth and the PRV fully extends. Install the spring type filter to the boss on the underside of the PRV port (Figure 9). This is requried to prevent debris from passing through the PRV.

WARNING:

Figure 7

Figure 9

Figure 8

OPERATION

MAXIMUM FERMENTABLES CAPACITY

Beer 7 Gallon 14 Gallon 19 Gallon 1 BBL
5.5 US Gal 11 US Gal 16 US Gal 34 US Gal

WARNING: Exceeding these capacities can cause the fermentation material (krausen) to clog the pressure relief valve and airlock causing a dangerous overpressure of the fermentor. Approximately 20% excess capacity is required for krausen space for beer. The use of Ferm Cap additive is highly recommended. In addition to greatly reducing krausen, it improves head retention.

DRY HOPPING

Do not use loose whole leaf hops for dry-hopping! Not only will they possibly clog the pressure relief valve, the leaves tend to clog the racking arm. If you use whole hops be sure to use a hop bag. Pellet hops can be used with or without a hop bag. In all cases, using a hop bag will reduce the carry-over of hop particles in the finished beer and harvested yeast and leave you with more finished beer. Boiling the bag before placing the hops inside is an easy way to reduce the risk of introducing bacteria in to the fermentor from the bag. In practice, pre-boiling of the hops is not needed due to the natural bacterial inhabitation from hops, and the low pH of the beer. This will also preserve the volatile aromatic compounds from being lost.

AFTER USE CLEANING AND STORAGE

After use, rinse with hot water and completely disassemble the fermentor and fittings. Soak the fittings and seals in hot PBW solution. Scrub the fermentor and lid with a soft scouring pad and ordinary dish detergent (or your favorite non-chlorine cleanser such as PBW) and rinse and dry thoroughly.

MAINTENANCE

Inspect lid seal and o-rings before each use. If they have cuts, abrasion or have taken a permanent set replace them. Never scrub the seals or o-rings with an abrasive pad or cleanser.

ASEPTIC VALVE OPERATION

After installing the aseptic valve, angle it so that the fittings are vertical. Install the bottom QuickConnect™ cap. Using the included squeeze bottle, fill the inside of the aseptic valve with Star San™™™ or vodka through the top and install the top QuickConnect™ cap. Keeping this full ensures every sample with be sanitary.

WARNING: When using pressure to sample or drain the unit, a few PSI is all that is needed. If counter pressure filling into the keg, it is highly recommened to use a spunding valve. The PRV is NOT to be used as a normal pressure control!

IMPORTANT: Open the pressure relief valve on the lid prior to draining beer/wort from the tank or you will suck the liquid out of the airlock and into the fermentor! The CO2 from the actively fermenting beer is generally sufficient to purge any ingested air from the tank.

WORT SAMPLE

  1. Remove bottom cap of the aseptic valve and let liquid drain.
  2. Open valve slowly and take sample
  3. Replace bottom cap.
  4. Remove top cap, fill with sanitizer/vodka and replace top cap.

Alternatively, the unit can be sealed and a few PSI of pressure can be applied prior to sampling to keep O2 from entering.

RACKING AND SERVING FINISHED BEER

Transferring beer out the G4 Fermenator can be done with either gravity or using CO2 pressure to transfer into a bottling bucket or keg. To pressurize the fermentor, you can use either the Blichmann Tri-Clamp Spunding Valve or our 1-1/2″Tri-Clamp to Keg post adaptor. Simply attach the device to the top port on the lid and pressurize the tank to the desired pressure. Do not attempt to exceed 15 PSI.

The other method is gravity transfer. Simply elevate the vessel and drain into a keg or bottling bucket. Oxygen contact with the beer is minimized by purging the vessel prior to transfer. Purge the keg with CO2 after transferring to eliminate any residual O2 in the headspace. Purge the keg prior to filling through the liquid out post to ensure all O2 is displaced from the bottom up as CO2 is heavier than air. After filling, pressurize the keg through the CO2 post and pull the keg vent/PRV valve 4-5 times to ensure all O2 has been removed form the head space.

PRESSURE FERMENTATION

WARNING: THE PRV IS NEVER TO BE USED AS A PRESSURE CONTROL FOR FERMENTATION!

RELEASE ALL PRESSURE AND REMOVE THE PRV FROM THE LID BEFORE REMOVING THE LID CLAMP!

EQUIPMENT REQUIRED: SPUNDING VALVE TO REGULATE THE FERMENTATION PRESSURE AT THE DESIRED PRESSURE.

Pressure fermentation up to 15 PSI (1 BAR) is one of the key new features of the Fermenator G4 conical fermentor. Fermenting under pressure suppresses the formation of esters by the yeast (fruity character) and allows the brewer to product lager-like beer at room temperature, and in less time. In addition to ester reduction, diacetyl precursor production by the yeast is also significantly reduced. Blichmann Engineering and White Labs have done extensive research on various pressures and the effect on quantitative ester and diacetyl production. In addition, qualitative testing was done through National and Master ranked BJCP judges. While pressure fermenting at higher pressure such at 30 PSI (2 BAR) does reduce esters even further, it also gives a perceived thinner body, and also a harsher presentation of the hop bitterness. The panel found the traditional lager method to produce the best overall flavor, but the 15 PSI at room temperature produced the best balance of ester reduction and hop flavor quality. While esters are reduced, also is diacetyl. Not from the pressure, rather from the higher fermentation temperature. At low levels that are appropriate for the style, diacetyl does add a perceived roundness to the malt character and the tasting panel noted that this was missing from the pressure fermented beer. In summary, pressure fermentation produces a lager-like beer. Is best done at approximately 15 PSI. But is not as rounded as a beer that is lagered in the traditional style.

TIP: Do not use pressure fermentation when producing ales or you will not achieve the fruity character and balance necessary in these styles. If you are unable to control temperatures of your ales to 66-72F, it may be necessary to apply 7-8 PSI to suppress enough esters to achieve desired levels for the style. Experimentation with this is highly advised.

WARNING: