JBL Professional C1PRO High-Performance 2-Way Professional Compact Loudspeaker
Specifications
- Item Weight
8 pounds - Product Dimensions
7 x 4 x 6 inches - Compatible Devices
TV, Personal Computer - Speaker Amplification Type
Passive - Output Wattage
150 - Wattage
150 watts - Connectivity Technology
Spring-loaded terminals - Speaker Type
In-Wall
- Recommended Uses For Product
For Television, For Computers - Frequency Range (-10 dB)
80Hz – 20kHz - Frequency Response (+/- 3 dB)
100Hz – 18kHz - Power Capacity1
150 W - Sensitivity2
87dB SPL, 1 W 1m (3.3 ft) - Maximum SPL
108dB continuous, 114dB peak - Nominal Impedance
4 ohms - Crossover Frequency
4.2kHz - Brand
JBL
Introduction
JBL Professional’s illustrious performance The Control 1 Pro, which comes in a small package and has professional drivers and a professional crossover network, is perfect for even the most demanding near-field audio applications. The revised crossover network design of the Control 1 Pro offers steeper crossover slopes for outstanding sonic performance and increased consistency throughout the listening area. The unit can be mounted to a wall or other flat surface using the wall-mount bracket that is included. The Control 1 Pro is suitable for use with television and computer displays as well as other magnetically sensitive equipment since the tough moulded shell houses magnetically insulated transducers. 4 ohms for nominal impedance
What’s In the Box?
- Mounting Bracket Assembly
- Speakers
- User Manual
Control 1 Pro
Key Features
- 150 Watts Continuous Power Handling
- Professional Drivers and Crossover Network
- Included Mounting Bracket
- Transparent and Faithful
- Sonic Performance
- Magnetically Shielded Enclosure
- SonicGuard™ Overload Protection
Your Control 1 Pro is a compact, high-performance professional loudspeaker system that features monitor-grade low and high-frequency drivers coupled with a professional crossover network. The rugged and durable molded enclosure is magnetically shielded making the Control 1 Pro ideal for use with video and computer monitors or other magnetically sensitive equipment. Moreover, the Control 1 Pro’s compact design is ideal for audio-visual applications, computer workstations, recording and broadcast studios, mobile audio-video control rooms and foreground and background music.
Bracket Assembly and Mounting Guide
- Screw the metal rod/ball assembly (1) into the threaded insert (2) on the back of the cabinet (8) until it is seated against the bottom of the insert.
- Next, tighten the “knurled” nut (3) with a small wrench until it is seated against the back of the cabinet. Tighten the nut until it has “locked” the rod/ball assembly (1) to the cabinet. Note: the nut may leave marks on the back of the cabinet where the attachment is made however, the flange of the nut will cover these marks.
- Mount the wall bracket plate (4) onto a flat sturdy surface using the appropriate mounting hardware for the surface. A safety cable (5) (not included) may be attached to the wall bracket via its eyelet (6) at one of the two lower screw mounting points or to a secondary point off the mounting plate.
- Next, slip the large molded nut (7) over the ball on the metal rod/ball assembly (1).
- Holding the cabinet (8) with both hands, insert the ball on the metal rod/ball assembly (1) into the cup of the wall plate (4).
- Orient the speaker into the desired position and hand tighten the molded nut (7). Once the orientation is finalized, use the metal bar (9) in one of the holes on the molded nut (7) to securely tighten.
- Finally, clip the safety cable to the cabinet’s safety bar (10) on the back of the cabinet.
Rotating the Logo
The Control 1 Pro’s logo can be oriented for display at 90° increments. To rotate the logo, first gently pry the grille and gasket from the cabinet. Next, push in the logo’s fastener (found on the underside of the grille) and rotate the logo to the desired position.
Troubleshooting
If there is no sound from your speakers
- Make sure your power amplifier is on and the gain is set above its minimum setting.
- Make sure there is a signal to your amplifier from your mixer.
- Ensure all wires are connected and that none are cut or frayed.
- If more than one pair of speakers is being used, check the minimum impedance requirements of your amplifier (overloading your amplifier can result in damage to your amp).
If there is no sound from one of your speakers
- Check the balance control on your mixer.
- Check the channel output gains of your amplifier.
- Ensure all wires are connected and that none are cut or frayed.
If there is no (or weak) bass output or a poor stereo image
- Make sure the polarities (+ and -) of the speaker’s inputs are properly connected.
1 IEC Standard, full bandwidth pink noise with 6 dB crest factor; 2-hour duration 2 Average 1 kHz to 10 kHz 3 Calculated based on power rating exclusive of power compression JBL continually engages in research related to product improvement. Changes introduced into existing products without notice are an expression of that philosophy.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Are they good as near-field studio monitors for home studios? Do they work with Denon DRA 500ae receiver?
I have a recording studio in my home and have been playing and engineering music recordings for 30 years. I bought these as computer monitors in my office – but I sometimes use them to prove a mix. They are nice as an “alternative” to my studio monitors. In my studio, I use Mackie HR-824s, Yamaha NS-10, and a pair of Klipsch Heresies to get different “looks” at a mix. Control 1 has weak/nonexistent low bass response, so it’s not useful as a primary studio monitor. I also find them to be less than flat through the mid-range. So a mix that sounds good on them, can sound “midrange heavy” when you listen to it in the car or any system with a nominally boosted midrange. So I would say, they are NOT very good if you are a serious audiophile or sound engineer and you want to use them as your sole or primary monitors. Where they are good is for mixing a nice punchy bass response(80-200hZ). As a result, I use them to mix drums and bass all the time. If those instruments sound good on these speakers, they will sound GREAT on a high-fidelity system. Sometimes, when you mix drums and bass on small speakers, the mix ends up being really boomy and bass heavy once you have subwoofers and full-frequency playback. Not so in this case. They have a very controlled bass response. Maybe that’s why they are named “control”? So, if you want another set of speakers to check a mix, or if you are doing a lot of drum and bass music, they might be OK. - Are they self-powered? Can I just plug my phone in and jam?
self-powered only because they must be connected first to an amplifier old school style with a two-lead cable. The phone cannot be hooked up or plugged directly to the speaker. You must first use an amplifier/preamplifier section for processing the signal from your phone. Some speakers have Bluetooth or network capability and are self-powered with w/battery. This JBL Control 1 speaker is not like that. - What comes with the products?
Just the speakers, nonpowered. you will need a power amp, also I use a board to plug my puter into. you can come out of the puter but you will need a couple of steps before you get to the speakers. you might want to look into powered versions. It all depends on what level and what you are using the speakers for. I have a home production studio and have to have some speaker references without blasting the apartment neighbors. - Are these speakers suitable for outdoor use considering they will be under a canopy and won`t get wet?
These speakers are quite often used for outdoor installations. - Can I connect this pair to a mixer and use it as a PA system for conferences?
If it is a powered mixer, these can be directly connected to it. Otherwise, you’d need an amp. A PA is not what these were designed for, but if it was a small enough room they would do the job. - Can these speakers be used outdoors?
They are not rated for outdoor use. On a nice day when it isn’t rainy, you could get away with it, but no you cannot mount them as permanent outdoor speakers. - My amp puts out 90 watts @ 8 ohms per channel. Are the 150 watts for the pair or for each speaker?
You would be better off getting the 8ohm version of these same speakers for a couple of extra bucks, these (4ohm) speakers will make your receiver amp run hot, which isn’t great. The 8ohm version might sound more natural paired with your 8ohm amp, in my opinion, some of the 4ohm speakers sound a little off when paired to an 8ohm amp like they are a little boomy or something. - Which amplifier would be best and cost-saving for 4 or 6 speakers? Could you please advise some models?
This is a choice you need to make for yourself, there are too many options out there. You can go cheap no name brand or spend a little more and get something with a better reputation and better sound quality. It’s a decision for you to make. The best bet is to google “best home theater receiver” or add “on a budget” and will usually give you a list of 5 to 10 to look into. - Do these speakers have an XLR input?
No. These are passive speakers with ordinary red/black speaker terminals. - Are these speakers appropriate for a Roland 301 keyboard?
Probably not. the Roland 301 keyboard is not powered to amplify the speakers for one, 2. the speakers don’t resonate at the lower frequencies that the keyboard plays at. You’re probably going to want a powered subwoofer for this keyboard’s application. - Can I plug these into a computer headphone jack with a 1/8″ cable (after powering with an amplifier)?
You can do this provided that your amplifier is designed to handle this type of input. The normal line level output is -10 dB for consumer electronics. The headphone output isn’t designed to feed an amplifier directly, rather it is designed to feed high impedance headphones. If you want to do this the right way you need an interface between your computer and amplifier. There are devices manufactured for this very purpose: take headphone output from a phone, mp3 player or computer and convert this to line level to feed an amplifier. A prime example is: the iBoost 800 Stereo Line Level Audio Amplifier Booster Amp for MP3, iPod, iPad, and iPhone. There are a ton of these out there so have fun selecting the one that best suits you. Another way to accomplish this is with a USB sound card. You plug the interface into your USB port on your computer and from there you are provided line-level outputs (as well as inputs) that you can use to feed your amplifier. I have even seen integrated amplifiers designed to take headphone inputs so that you can drive your speakers. The sky is the limit, so have fun selecting just the right device. - The bracket socket (Part #4) does not fit the ball nut (Part #1). The ball diameter is too big to fit in, unless you can try brutal force?
Just push the ball into the bracket socket before screwing on the open screw cap. The ball has to snap into the bracket socket.