Airmar SS164 1kW with Temperature Sensor User Guide

Be sure your transducer model matches the deadrise angle of your
hull at the selected mounting location. The tilt angle is printed
on the top of the transducer. To measure the deadrise angle of your
hull at the selected mounting location, use an angle finder or a
digital level.

Tools & Materials Required:

Safety glasses
Dust mask

Ear protection
Angle finder

Electric drill with 10mm (3/8) or larger chuck capacity
Drill bit: 3mm or 1/8

Hole saw: 95mm or 3-3/4 (fiberglass or wood hull), 105 mm or
4-1/8 (metal hull)
Grinder (some installations)

Sandpaper
Mild household detergent or weak solvent (such as alcohol)

File (installation in a metal hull)
Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)

Allen wrench: 3/16
Slip-joint pliers

Grommet(s) (some installations)
Cable ties

Water-based anti-fouling paint (mandatory in salt water)
Installation in a cored fiberglass hull: Hole saw for hull
interior: 152mm or 6

Fiberglass resin

Mounting Location:

CAUTION: Do not mount in line with or near
water intake or discharge openings, or behind strakes, fittings, or
hull irregularities that will disturb the water flow.

Boat Types:

Planing hull powerboats–Mount well aft, near the centerline,
and well inboard of the first set of lifting strakes to ensure that
the transducer will be in contact with the water at high speeds.
The starboard side of the hull where the propeller blades are
moving downward is preferred.

Installation Hole Drilling & Dry Fitting:

From inside the hull, using the hull nut as a guide to ensure
ample space, mark the center point. Then drill a 3mm or 1/8 pilot
hole.
If there is a rib, strut, or other hull irregularity near the
selected mounting location, drill from the outside.

Using a 95mm or 3-3/4 hole saw, cut a hole from outside of the
hull perpendicular to the hull surface. It may be necessary to
enlarge the hole slightly using a grinder or file.
If stainless steel housing in a metal hull, use a 105 mm or
41/8 hole saw to accommodate the isolation bushing. It may be
necessary to enlarge the hole slightly using a grinder or
file.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ):

Q: Can I use this transducer on any type of boat?

A: It is essential to match the tilt angle of the transducer to
the deadrise of your boat’s hull. Follow the guidelines provided in
the manual to ensure optimal performance.

Q: What should I do if I encounter hull irregularities during
installation?

A: If you encounter any hull irregularities near the mounting
location, drill from the outside and adjust as needed to ensure
proper installation.

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OWNER’S GUIDE & INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS

Thru-Hull: 1kW with Temperature Sensor

Record the information found on the cable tag for future reference.

Tilted Element Transducer TM

Part No.___________________Serial No:_________________________

Tilt Angles: 0, 12, 20 Date_________________Frequency__________________________kHz

Models:

B164, SS164

Chirp Models: B175H, B175HW, B175L, B175M, IC-B190M

SS175H, SS175HW, SS175L, SS175M

Pair:

SS264N

Legacy Model: SS264W
Patent http://www.airmar.com/patent.html

D-17-458-01-rev.14 17-458-01-rev.14 03/11/2025

Follow the precautions below for optimal product performance and to reduce the risk of property damage, personal injury, and/or death.
WARNING: Always install the two set screws with marine sealant applied to the threads. This will hold the hull nut firmly in place. Failure to do so may allow the hull nut to become loose. WARNING: Always wear safety glasses, a dust mask, and ear protection when installing. WARNING: Immediately check for leaks when the boat is placed in the water. Do not leave the boat unchecked for more than three hours. Even a small leak may allow considerable water to accumulate. WARNING: Stainless steel housing in a metal hull– Be sure the washer contacts the hull. Do not tighten the hull nut with the washer against the isolation bushing, as the housing will not be firmly installed. If necessary, sand the isolation bushing until the washer rests against the hull. CAUTION: Chirp transducer–Do not install in the engine compartment or other hot place. The transducer may fail if it overheats. CAUTION: Chirp transducer–Always operate the transducer in water. Operating in air will allow the transducer to overheat resulting in failure. CAUTION: The arrow on the top of the transducer must point toward the keel or centerline of the boat. This will align the angle of the element inside the transducer with the deadrise angle of your hull. CAUTION: Never install a metal transducer on a vessel with a positive ground system. CAUTION: Never pull, carry, or hold the transducer by its cable; this may sever internal connections. CAUTION: Stainless steel housing in a metal hull– Stainless steel housing must be isolated from a metal hull to prevent electrolytic corrosion. Use the isolation bushing supplied. CAUTION: Never use solvents. Cleaner, fuel, sealant, paint, and other products may contain solvents that can damage plastic parts, especially the transducer’s face. IMPORTANT: For optimal performance, apply marine sealant to the entire inside surface of the spacer. This will fill the gap between the spacer and the sidewall of the transducer preventing vibration.

IMPORTANT: Read the instructions completely before proceeding with the installation. These instructions supersede any other instructions in your instrument manual if they differ.
Applications
· Bronze housing recommended for fiberglass or wood hulls. Never install a bronze housing in an aluminum hull, because electrolytic corrosion will occur.
· Stainless steel housing compatible with all hull materials. Recommended for metal hulls to prevent electrolytic corrosion provided the stainless steel housing is isolated from the metal hull.
Match Tilt Angle of Transducer to Deadrise
Be sure your transducer model matches the deadrise angle of your hull at the selected mounting location. The tilt angle is printed on the top of the transducer (Figure 1). To measure the deadrise angle of your hull at the selected mounting location, use an angle finder or a digital level (Figure 2).
· 0 transducer for deadrise angles from 0 to 7 · 12 transducer for deadrise angles from 8 to 15 · 20 transducer for deadrise angles from 16 to 24

B175H 130 – 210 kHz

tilt angle

transom view

slope of hull deadrise angle
parallel to waterline

Figure 2. Deadrise angle of the hull
Copyright © 2005 Airmar Technology Corp.

Tools & Materials

Safety glasses

Dust mask

Ear protection

Angle finder

Electric drill with 10mm (3/8″) or larger chuck capacity

Drill bit:

3mm or 1/8″

Hole saw:

95mm or 3-3/4″ (fiberglass or wood hull)

105 mm or 4-1/8″ (metal hull)

Grinder (some installations)

Sandpaper Mild household detergent or weak solvent (such as alcohol)

File (installation in a metal hull)

Marine sealant (suitable for below waterline)

Allen wrench:

3/16″

Slip-joint pliers

Grommet(s) (some installations)

Cable ties

Water-based anti-fouling paint (mandatory in salt water)

Installation in a cored fiberglass hull: Hole saw for hull interior: 152mm or 6″

Fiberglass resin

Mounting Location
CAUTION: Do not mount in line with or near water intake or discharge openings, or behind strakes, fittings, or hull irregularities that will disturb the water flow.
· The water flowing under the hull must be smooth with a minimum of bubbles and turbulence (especially at high speeds).
· The transducer must be continuously immersed in water.
· The transducer beam must be unobstructed by the keel or propeller shaft(s).
· Choose a location away from interference caused by power and radiation sources such as: the propeller(s) and shaft(s), other machinery, other echosounders, and other cables. The lower the noise level, the higher the echosounder gain setting that can be used.
· Choose an accessible spot inside the vessel with a minimum of 178 mm (7″) of space for the height of the housing, installing the spacer, and tightening the nut and set screws.
· Chirp transducer–Mount in a cool well-ventilated area away from the engine to avoid overheating.
· Pairs–Mount the transducers across from one another on opposite sides of the centerline (keel) (Figure 4).
Boat Types (Figure 3)
Planing hull powerboats–Mount well aft, near the centerline, and well inboard of the first set of lifting strakes to ensure that the transducer will be in contact with the water at high speeds. The

starboard side of the hull where the propeller blades are moving downward is preferred.
· Outboard and I/O–Mount just forward of the engine(s). · Inboard–Mount well ahead of the propeller(s) and shaft(s). · Stepped hull–Mount just ahead of the first step. · Boat capable of speeds above 25kn (29 MPH)–Review the
installation location and operating results of similar boats before proceeding.
Installation Hole Drilling & Dry Fitting
1. From inside the hull, using the hull nut as a guide to ensure ample space, mark the center point. Then drill a 3mm or 1/8″ pilot hole. If there is a rib, strut, or other hull irregularity near the selected mounting location, drill from the outside.
2. Using a 95mm or 3-3/4″ hole saw, cut a hole from outside of the hull perpendicular to the hull surface. It may be necessary to enlarge the hole slightly using a grinder or file. Stainless steel housing in a metal hull–Use a 105 mm or 41/8″ hole saw to accommodate the isolation bushing. It may be necessary to enlarge the hole slightly using a grinder or file.
3. Sand and clean the area around the hole, inside and outside, to ensure that the sealant will adhere properly to the hull. If there is any petroleum residue inside the hull, remove it with either mild household detergent or a weak solvent (alcohol) before sanding. Metal hull–Remove all burrs with a file and sandpaper.
4. Dry fit the transducer to determine if the spacer must be cut. From outside the hull, push the housing through the mounting hole (Figure 5). From inside, slide one of the washers onto the housing. Slide the spacer onto the housing with the open end facing the hull. Add the remaining washer. Be sure a minimum of THREE threads are showing on the housing above the washer. If not, cut the spacer to make it shorter. When cutting the spacer, be sure to cut the open end (Figure 6).
pigtail

outboard and I/O

inboard

stepped hull
Figure 3. Best location for the transducer
Copyright © 2007 – 2011 Airmar Technology Corp.
2

200 kHz

50 kHz

solid fiberglass or wood hull

housing
set screw (2) hull nut washer
spacer

stainless steel housing in metal hull

NmOusTtEb:eTahere minimum of ONE fully exposed thread above the hull nut to hold it firmly in place.

washer hull

marine sealant on threads, sidewall, and flange of housing additional sealant on entire inside surface of spacer to fill gap between spacer and sidewall

isolation bushing

marine sealant on threads, sidewall, and flange of housing isolation bushing where it contacts hull
additional sealant on entire inside surface of spacer to fill gap between spacer and sidewall

Cored Fiberglass Hull Only
CAUTION: The core (wood or foam) must be cut and sealed carefully to protect it from water seepage.
1. From inside the hull, using the 152mm or 6″ hull interior hole saw, cut through the inner skin and most of the core (Figure 8). The core material can be very soft. Apply only light pressure to the hole saw after cutting through the inner skin to avoid accidentally cutting the outer skin.
2. Remove the plug of core material, so the inside of the outer skin and the inner core of the hull is fully exposed. Sand and clean the inner skin, core, and the outer skin around the hole.
Bedding
CAUTION: Be sure the surfaces to be bedded are clean and dry.
1. Apply a 4mm (1/8″) thick layer of marine sealant to the flange, sidewall, and threads of the housing (Figure 5). The sealant must extend 12mm (1/2″) higher than the combined thickness of the hull, spacer, and hull nut. This will ensure there is marine sealant in the threads to seal the hull and to hold the hull nut securely in place.
Stainless steel housing in a metal hull–To prevent electrolytic corrosion, the stainless steel housing must be isolated from the metal hull. Slide the isolation bushing onto the housing. Apply additional marine sealant to the surfaces of the bushing that will contact the hull, filling any cavities in and around the bushing.
2. Apply a 4mm (1/8″) thick layer of marine sealant to the entire inside surface of the spacer. This will fill the gap between the spacer and the sidewall of the transducer preventing vibration.

Installing
1. From outside the hull, thread the cable through the mounting hole. Push the housing into the mounting hole using a twisting motion to squeeze out excess sealant.
12° and 20° models–From inside the hull, point the arrow on the top of the transducer (and the cable exit) toward the KEEL or centerline of the boat (Figure 1). This will align the angle of the element inside the transducer with the deadrise angle of your hull.
2. From inside the hull, slide one of the washers onto the housing (Figure 5). Slide the spacer onto the housing until the open end rests against the washer. Add the remaining washer. Be sure a minimum of THREE threads are showing on the housing above the washer. If not, make the spacer shorter by cutting the open end (Figure 6).
3. Screw the hull nut in place using slip-joint pliers. Be sure a minimum of ONE full thread is exposed above the hull nut.
Cored fiberglass hull–Do not over tighten, crushing the hull. Wood hull–Allow the wood to swell before tightening the hull nut.
4. Secure the hull nut with the two set screws supplied (Figure 7). Apply marine sealant to the threads of the set screws. Using an Allen wrench, tighten each set screw until it makes contact with the housing threads. Continue to tighten an additional 1/8 to 1/4 turn. This will hold the hull nut firmly in place. Failure to do so may allow the hull nut to vibrate loose.
5. Remove any excess marine sealant on the outside of the hull to ensure smooth water flow under the transducer.

NOTE: After screw makes contact with housing, tighten additional 1/8 – 1/4 turn.
set screw (marine sealant in threads)

spacer

set screw (marine sealant in threads)

detail 3

hull thickness

152mm or 6″

spacer fill gap between spacer and hull with fiberglass resin inner skin core

Cored Fiberglass Hull Only
CAUTION: Completely seal the hull to prevent water seepage into the core.
Fill the gap between the spacer and the hull with fiberglass resin (Figure 8).
Cable Routing & Connecting
CAUTION: If the transducer came with a connector, do not remove it to ease cable routing. If the cable must be cut and spliced, use Airmar’s splash-proof Junction Box No. 33-035 and follow the instructions supplied. Removing the waterproof connector or cutting the cable, except when using a water-tight junction box, will void the sensor warranty.
1. Route the cable to the instrument, being careful not to tear the cable jacket when passing it through the bulkhead(s) and other parts of the boat. Use grommet(s) to prevent chafing. To reduce electrical interference, separate the transducer cable from other electrical wiring and the engine. Coil any excess cable and secure it in place using cable ties to prevent damage.
2. Refer to the echosounder owner’s manual to connect the transducer to the instrument.
Pair of Transducers · Single transmission line fishfinder–Connect the 10m (33′)
cable of the 200kHz transducer to the 1m (3′) pigtail of the 50kHz transducer. Connect the remaining 10m (33′) cable to the fishfinder (Figure 4).
· Dual transmission line fishfinder–Do not use the pigtail on the 50kHz transducer. Fasten it to the main cable with a cable tie. Connect the 10m (33′) cable of the 50kHz transducer to the low-frequency (50kHz) input on the fishfinder and the 200kHz transducer cable to the high-frequency (200kHz) input.

Checking for Leaks
When the boat is placed in the water, immediately check around the transducer for leaks. Note that very small leaks may not be readily observed. Do not leave the boat in the water for more than 3 hours before checking it again. If there is a small leak, there may be considerable bilge water accumulation after 24 hours. If a leak is observed, repeat “Bedding” and “Installing” immediately (page 3).

Maintenance, Parts & Replacement Anti-fouling Paint
Surfaces exposed to salt water must be coated with anti-fouling paint. Use water-based anti-fouling paint only. Never use ketonebased paint, since ketones can attack many plastics possibly damaging the transducer. Reapply anti-fouling paint every 6 months or at the beginning of each boating season.

Cleaning
Aquatic growth can accumulate rapidly on the transducer’s face, reducing its performance within weeks. Clean the surface with a Scotch-Brite® scour pad and mild household detergent, being careful to avoid making scratches. If the fouling is severe, lightly wet sand it with fine grade wet/dry paper.

Replacement Transducer & Parts
The information needed to order a replacement transducer is printed on the cable tag. Do not remove this tag. When ordering, specify the part number, date, and frequency in kHz. For convenient reference, record this information on the top of page one.

Lost, broken, and worn parts should be replaced immediately.

Obtain parts from your instrument manufacturer or marine dealer.

Gemeco

USA

Tel: 803-693-0777

email: sales@gemeco.com

Airmar EMEA

Europe, Middle East, Africa Tel: +33.(0)2.23.52.06.48 email: sales@airmar-emea.com

35 Meadowbrook Drive, Milford, New Hampshire 03055-4613, USA · www.airmar.com ·

Documents / Resources

Airmar SS164 1kW with Temperature Sensor [pdf] User Guide
B164, SS164, B175H, B175HW, B175L, B175M, IC-B190M, SS175H, SS175HW, SS175L, SS175M, SS264N, SS264W, SS164 1kW with Temperature Sensor, SS164, 1kW with Temperature Sensor, Temperature Sensor, Sensor

References

User Manual

Airmar SS164 1kW with Temperature Sensor User Guide

SS164 1kW with Temperature Sensor

Product Information

Specifications:

Product Usage Instructions:

Applications: