Garmin Force Current Trolling Motor Installation Guide
Important Safety Information
Read the enclosed product manual, which contains important safety and product information, including warnings and essential tips.
WARNING:
- Connecting high-frequency signal wires to the low-frequency signal terminal block, and vice versa, will damage the device and transducer.
- The motor must not be operated with the propeller removed from the water. Contact with a spinning propeller can cause serious injury.
- The motor must not be used in areas where the operator or other people in the water may come into contact with the propeller, as this can cause serious injury.
- To avoid serious injury or death, always disconnect the motor from the battery before servicing or working on the propeller, drive unit, electrical connections, or electronic housings.
CAUTION:
- For best performance and to prevent personal injury, device damage, or unit damage, it is recommended to have the installation performed by a qualified marine installer.
- When drilling, cutting, or grinding, always wear safety glasses, hearing protection, and a dust mask to prevent personal injury.
- When transporting the trolling motor, always use the handle on the back of the control housing and be mindful of the drive unit and propeller to avoid personal injury or property damage.
NOTICE:
- When drilling and cutting, always check what is on the other side of the surface to avoid damaging the boat.
- Due to the thrust generated by this product, not all kayaks can support it. Attempting to mount or use the Force Current trolling motor on a kayak that cannot support it may result in damage to the kayak. If in doubt, contact the kayak manufacturer for appropriate information before mounting the trolling motor.
Required Tools and Supplies
- Drill bit
- No. 2 Phillips screwdriver
- Knife or scissors
- Lighter or matches
- 40A circuit breaker
For mounting the bracket with screws and nuts, you will also need:
- 8 mm (5/16 in.) drill bit for screw and nut holes
- 11 mm (7/16 in.) combination wrench
- Sheet metal or other suitable material for reinforcing the mounting surface (optional)
For mounting the standoff nuts, you will also need:
- 11 mm (7/16 in.) drill bit
- 13 mm (1/2 in.) combination wrench
Checking Propeller Clearance
WARNING: Before mounting the trolling motor bracket, ensure there is adequate clearance for the propeller to rotate freely between the bracket and the hull at full rotation. Consider potential flex in the mounting location that may occur after the motor is mounted. Mounting the motor with insufficient clearance between the propeller and the hull can cause personal injury and property damage if the propeller contacts the hull during use.
- Manually rotate the propeller drive unit to check clearance through a full 360-degree rotation.
NOTICE: Before mounting the bracket, ensure there is adequate clearance. Use both the high-thrust propeller and the weedless propeller for this check.
- If necessary, reconsider the mounting location to ensure adequate clearance between the propeller and the hull.
Installing the Bracket
WARNING: Before mounting the bracket, ensure the mounting location provides adequate clearance between the propeller and the hull (Checking Propeller Clearance, page 2).
NOTICE:
- The kayak must have a flat transom where the trolling motor bracket can be mounted. If the kayak does not have a flat transom, an adapter designed for the kayak's shape must be used to provide a flat mounting surface. In this case, it is recommended to contact the kayak manufacturer for guidance and use a qualified marine installer for safe mounting.
Choose an option:
- If the kayak has threaded mounting holes on the transom compatible with the Power-Pole® Micro Anchor Spike Driver, you can use them to mount the bracket directly to the kayak (Mounting the Bracket to the Kayak with Pre-existing Mounting Locations, page 4).
- If the kayak does not have threaded mounting holes compatible with the Power-Pole Micro Anchor Spike Driver, an appropriate adapter plate designed for the kayak may be available from other manufacturers.
- If you have access to the space beneath the mounting surface, you can mount the bracket using screws and nuts (Mounting the Bracket to the Kayak Without Pre-existing Mounting Locations, page 5).
Mounting the Bracket to the Kayak with Pre-existing Mounting Locations
- Measure the distance from the transom edge to the nearest mounting hole on the kayak.
- Choose an option:
- If the transom edge is less than 29 mm (1 1/8 in.) from the nearest mounting hole 1, place the bracket over the mounting holes directly on the kayak.
- If the transom edge is between 29 mm (1 1/8 in.) and 100 mm (3 15/16 in.) from the nearest mounting hole 2, add a 20 mm (3/4 in.) spacer between the bracket and the kayak to provide adequate clearance for the bracket's shape.
- If the transom edge is more than 100 mm (3 15/16 in.) from the nearest mounting hole, the integrated mounting holes cannot be used to mount the bracket. An adapter plate may be available for this kayak model to provide new mounting holes closer to the transom edge. If such a plate is not available, you may need to drill new mounting holes in the kayak (Mounting the Bracket to the Kayak Without Pre-existing Mounting Locations, page 5).
- Attach the bracket to the kayak using the mounting screws and washers included in bag A.
Mounting the Bracket to the Kayak Without Pre-existing Mounting Locations
You must have access to the space beneath the mounting surface to mount the bracket using the included nuts and screws.
- Place the bracket on the kayak transom and determine the appropriate mounting location. NOTE: The rear of the bracket must extend beyond the transom so the bracket is mounted flush on the transom.
- Mark the four pilot holes on the kayak.
- Using an 8 mm (5/16 in.) drill bit, drill the four mounting holes.
- Remove the connecting screws, nuts, and wide washers from bag B, and the four standard washers from bag A.
- Attach the bracket to the kayak using the screws and standard washers from the top of the bracket, and the four wide washers and nuts from beneath the mounting surface.
NOTICE: You must use washers on both sides of the mounting surface to reduce stress on the mounting surface material and ensure a secure mount. Mounting the bracket without using all the washers may lead to damage to the motor and kayak.
For some kayaks, it may be necessary to install a mounting plate on one or both sides of the mounting surface to reinforce it before mounting the bracket. If in doubt, contact the kayak manufacturer for specific guidance for your model.
Mounting the Motor to the Bracket
CAUTION: When transporting the trolling motor, always use the handle on the back of the control housing and be mindful of the drive unit and propeller to avoid personal injury or property damage.
- Loosen the knobs on both sides of the trolling motor as needed.
- Lower the motor onto the bracket at approximately a 45-degree angle, aligning the knobs on the motor with the brackets on the bracket.
- Allow the motor to tilt down to the vertical position.
- Tighten the knobs on both sides of the motor.
Mounting the Locking Pin
The Force Current trolling motor supports three different locking pin positions, allowing for compensation of the transom angle relative to the water.
- Pass the locking pin 1 through the forks on either side of the motor.
- Install the cotter pin 2 on the end of the locking pin to secure it.
When the motor is lowered, the locking latch engages the locking pin, securing the motor in the lowered position. Check the shaft angle relative to the kayak and, if necessary, reposition the locking pin to one of the other two positions to set the motor shaft perpendicular to the water surface.
Mounting the Tie-off Line
- Thread one end of the line through the release cleat on the bracket 1.
- Tie off the end of the line under the bracket using a secure knot to prevent the line from pulling through the release cleat.
- Thread the line through the eyelet at the front of the motor 2.
- Route the line down and through the swivel block on the bracket 3.
- Choose a mounting location for the pull cleat 4 on the side, just in front of the seat.
- Select mounting points for the straps 5 that will guide the line from the mount to the pull cleat.
Mounting the Straps and Pull Cleat
If the kayak is equipped with a track system or threaded inserts, it is recommended to use them to mount the straps and pull cleat, if possible. The straps and cleat come with T-Track compatible T-nuts for mounting in a standard T-Track. If a T-Track or threaded inserts are not available, follow these steps to mount the straps or pull cleat using the included nuts and screws.
- Using an 11 mm (7/16 in.) drill bit, drill the mounting holes.
- Insert a standoff nut into each of the mounting holes (Mounting Standoff Nuts, page 9).
- Attach the pull cleat or straps to the kayak using the included mounting screws.
NOTE: The cleat must be attached to the kayak using two screws. Ensure the cleat is mounted in the correct orientation, with the pulley wheel facing the bow of the kayak. This way, pulling the line towards the stern will retract the motor.
Mounting Standoff Nuts
The Force Current trolling motor comes with accessories that can be used to mount the included 1/4 in. (20 TPI) standoff nuts using standard tools. If needed, you can purchase a specialized tool for mounting the nuts. When using the specialized tool, follow the manufacturer's instructions for mounting the standoff nuts.
NOTICE: The included standoff nuts are designed for mounting surfaces with a thickness of 0.5 to 4.8 cm (0.020 to 0.190 in.). If the thickness of your mounting surface is outside this range, you must purchase appropriate nuts to ensure a secure mount and prevent damage to the kayak.
- Remove the connecting nut, screw, and washer from bag G.
- Pass the screw through the connecting nut, washer, and standoff nut.
- Insert the standoff nut with the screw into the mounting surface hole so that the flange of the standoff nut is flush with the surface.
- Place a 13 mm (1/2 in.) wrench on the connecting nut.
- While pressing down on the screw head to prevent the screw from turning, turn the connecting nut clockwise using the wrench.
As you tighten the connecting nut, the screw will be pulled upward, causing the standoff nut to collapse under the mounting surface.
- Tighten the connecting nut completely. The standoff nut is now fully collapsed and secured in the mounting surface.
- While holding the screw in place with a No. 2 Phillips screwdriver, turn the connecting nut counterclockwise to loosen it.
- Remove the screw and connecting nut from the standoff nut using a No. 2 Phillips screwdriver.
Mounting the Line Holder
- Thread the end of the line through the two parts of the line holder.
- Trim the line, leaving enough slack to provide comfortable access from a seated position in the kayak. ADVICE: It is recommended to trim the line to approximately 20 cm (8 in.) from the pull cleat so the holder is close to the pull cleat when the motor is in the lowered position.
- Use a secure knot to tie the line inside the holder.
- If necessary, trim and melt the end of the line to prevent fraying.
- Snap the two parts of the line holder together.
Mounting the Skeg
NOTICE: Mounting the skeg is necessary to protect the propeller from damage in case the propeller drive unit collides with an underwater obstacle.
- Place the skeg over the fin located on the bottom of the propeller drive unit, starting from the front.
- Using the 3 mm (included with the kit) Allen wrench, install the screw and washer to secure the skeg.
Mounting the Propeller
The Force Current trolling motor is equipped with a weedless propeller and a high-thrust propeller. The weedless propeller prevents underwater plants from wrapping around the propeller and shaft.
NOTICE: The Force Current trolling motor with the high-thrust propeller should only be used in open water. Using the high-thrust propeller in shallow water increases the risk of propeller damage if the drive unit strikes an underwater obstacle.
- Pass the pin 1 through the propeller shaft.
- If necessary, position the motor shaft so that the pin can be inserted horizontally, reducing the likelihood of it falling out.
- Align the groove inside the propeller with the pin and slide the propeller onto the motor shaft.
- Place the anode 2, washer 3, locking washer 4, and nut 5 onto the end of the motor shaft.
- Using a 14 mm (9/16 in.) wrench, tighten the self-locking nut to 16.27 Nm (12 lb ft) to secure the propeller.
Mounting the Remote Control Holder
- Use the holder as a template to mark the two pilot holes.
- Remove the holder from the mounting surface and drill the pilot holes. NOTICE: Do not drill pilot holes through the holder, as this may cause damage.
- Attach the holder to the mounting surface using the included screws.
Connecting Power
WARNING: Before connecting the trolling motor power leads, the power switch must be off to avoid potential serious personal injury or property damage.
Connect the positive (+) power lead using a 40A circuit breaker or fuse (continuous load). Connecting this lead to power without a circuit breaker or fuse may cause a short circuit, which could lead to overheating and a fire hazard.
NOTICE: Connect the Force Current trolling motor to a 12 or 24 V DC battery. Connecting the motor to a different voltage may result in reduced performance or product damage.
- Connect the trolling motor power lead to the battery, routing the positive (+) lead through a 40A circuit breaker (continuous load).
- Turn the rain cover on the trolling motor power connector a quarter turn counterclockwise to expose the power connector.
- Insert the power lead connector, ensuring the cable is roughly parallel to the kayak, and push it in until it is fully seated. NOTE: Before connecting to the motor, ensure the locking ring on the power lead connector is in the unlocked position.
The power lead strain relief should rest against the bracket on the motor housing.
- Turn the locking ring on the power lead connector a quarter turn clockwise to lock it.
Power Steer Pedals
Power Steer pedals are an optional accessory included with some motor models.
Mounting Options
NOTICE: Although the mounting methods described in this manual cover various kayak models, you may need to use a method not described here. If you have any doubts about how this manual applies to your kayak, contact the manufacturer for guidance on the best way to mount the Power Steer pedal rails.
- If the kayak is equipped with compatible T-Track rails on the gunwale, you can mount the rails using screws and T-Track nuts (Mounting Rails on T-Track, page 16).
- If the kayak is equipped with a pedal rail system or appropriate threaded inserts on the sides of the deck, you may be able to mount the rails using the existing mounting holes (Mounting Rails Using Existing Mounting Holes, page 17).
- If the kayak is not equipped with T-Track or other available mounting points, you can mount the rails using standoff nuts (Mounting Rails with Standoff Nuts, page 17).
Adjusting Pedal Height
The pedal rails are factory set to position the pedals high. This is due to the placement of the pedal mount attachment points being offset from the center. You can reverse the pedal rails to lower their position.
NOTICE: The rails must always be mounted so that the pedal attachment button faces the stern of the kayak, allowing easy access to adjust the pedal position while seated. NOTE: If reversing the pedal rails to face the gunwale, remove the factory-installed angle adapters from the rails and install them in reverse (Removing the Angle Adapter, page 14).
Removing the Angle Adapter
The factory-installed angle adapter allows mounting the rails on the kayak's gunwale edges. To mount the rails on the sides of the deck, remove the angle adapter from the rails. Unscrew the two screws that attach the angle adapter to the rails.
Mounting Stabilizers
Optional stabilizers are designed to support the pedal rails on the deck, thereby reducing the load on the rail mounting surfaces.
- If you plan to use stabilizers, attach them to the rails before mounting the rails in the kayak.
- Connect the fixed part of the stabilizer 1 to one of the adjustable legs 2 included in the mounting kit, using the two knobs and the nut from bag F. The stabilizer kit includes a long and a short adjustable leg. Choose the option that will allow the assembled stabilizer to reach the deck to provide support for the rails.
- Slide the assembled stabilizer onto the end of the rail opposite the pedal attachment button. NOTE: Temporary removal of the angle adapter (Removing the Angle Adapter, page 14) may be necessary to mount the stabilizer.
- Press and hold the button on the stabilizer while sliding it into the desired position.
- Loosen the knobs on the stabilizer.
- Extend the adjustable leg until it touches the deck, then retighten the knobs.
- Repeat steps 1 to 5 to mount the stabilizer on the other set of rails.
Mounting Rails on T-Track
NOTICE: The included screws and T-Track nuts may not fit all kayak rail systems. Use mounting hardware compatible with the system used on your kayak. Mounting the rail using mounting hardware that does not fit the rail system used on your kayak may cause damage to the boat or pedal rails.
- If necessary, mount the stabilizer on the rails on one side of the kayak (Mounting Stabilizers, page 15).
- Remove the screws from bag E and the T-Track nuts and washers from bag D.
- Slide two T-Track nuts into the ends of the rail so they align with the mounting holes on the angle adapter in the rails.
- Mount the rails onto the tracks using the screws and washers.
- Ensure there is no gap between the rails and the side of the deck, then tighten the screws. NOTICE: Ensure the contact surface between the kayak and the angle adapter is as large as possible. Leaving a gap between the rails and the sides of the deck will result in a less stable mount and may cause damage to the kayak.
- Repeat these steps for the other side of the kayak.
Mounting Rails Using Existing Mounting Holes
Before mounting the rails on the sides of the deck, remove the angle adapter from the rails (Removing the Angle Adapter, page 14).
The Power Steer pedals are packaged with 1/4 in. (20 TPI) screws in bag E. These screws and the washers in bag D are for mounting the rails to the sides of the deck. The included mounting hardware may not fit the existing mounting holes in your kayak. If replacing an existing set of rails, consider reusing the original mounting hardware to mount the new rails.
NOTICE: Use screws and washers that fit the pedal rails and the mounting holes in the kayak. Mounting the rails without the appropriate hardware may cause damage to the rails and the kayak.
- If necessary, remove the existing rail set from the kayak and set aside the mounting hardware.
- If necessary, remove the existing rail set from the kayak and set aside the mounting hardware. NOTICE: Use washers for mounting the rails. Mounting the rails without washers may cause damage to the rails or kayak.
Mounting Rails with Standoff Nuts
Before mounting the rails on the sides of the deck, remove the angle adapter from the rails (Removing the Angle Adapter, page 14).
If the kayak is not equipped with a rail system or appropriate mounting points for the pedal rails, you can mount the necessary mounting points using the included standoff nuts.
- Use a pedal rail as a template to mark the pilot holes on one side of the kayak.
- Using an 11 mm (7/16 in.) drill bit, drill the mounting holes. NOTICE: Do not drill mounting holes through the rails. Drilling mounting holes through the rail may cause damage.
- Insert a standoff nut from bag E into each of the mounting holes (Mounting Standoff Nuts, page 9).
- Attach the rails to the kayak using the screws from bag E and the washers from bag D.
- Repeat these steps for the other side of the kayak.
Mounting Pedals to Rails
- Insert the screw on the outside of the pedal flush with the threaded socket in the pedal mount on the rail, then turn the knob on the other side of the pedal clockwise to attach the pedal to the mount.
- Tilt the pedal forward and backward to check its range of motion and, if necessary, adjust its tilt angle.
- If necessary, press the button on the pedal mount and slide it along the rail to position the pedal in a comfortable location. NOTICE: Do not slide the pedal mounts to the very end of the rail. If the pedal mount catches on one of the pedal rail mounting screws, it may be difficult to slide.
- Repeat the same steps for the other pedal. ADVICE: You can check the markings where the pedals connect to the pedal mounts to ensure both pedals are mounted at the same angle. NOTICE: Before transporting the kayak, remove the pedals from the mounts. The pedals may loosen during transport, which could lead to property damage.
Technical Specifications
Trolling Motor
- Weight: Motor: 10.1 kg (22.2 lbs); With bracket and cable: 12.6 kg (27.8 lbs)
- Operating Temperature: -5°C to 40°C (23°F to 104°F)
- Storage Temperature: -40°C to 85°C (-40°F to 185°F)
- Waterproof Rating: Control motor housing: IEC 60529 IPX7; Propeller motor housing: IEC 60529 IPX8
- Power Cable Length: 165 cm (5 ft 5 in.)
- Input Voltage: 12 V to 24 V DC
- Input Current: 40 A continuous load
- Circuit Breaker (sold separately): 32 V DC or higher, suitable for 40 A continuous load. NOTE: The system can be protected using a low-sensitivity circuit breaker (60 A maximum) if the device operates in high temperatures or is used with other devices. Before replacing the circuit breaker with a low-sensitivity circuit breaker, first verify that the boat's wiring complies with marine electrical standards.
- Maximum Power Draw: 420 W at 12 V DC; 768 W at 24 V DC
- Wireless Frequency and Transmit Power: 2.4 GHz at 19.0 dBm (max.)
Power Steer Pedals
- Weight (complete system with rails): 3.08 kg (6.8 lbs)
- Operating Temperature: -5°C to 40°C (23°F to 104°F)
- Storage Temperature: -40°C to 85°C (-40°F to 185°F)
- Waterproof Rating: IEC 60529 IPX7
- Power: 2 AA batteries per pedal
- Wireless Frequency and Transmit Power: 2.4 GHz at 9.1 dBm (max.)
Dimensions
Trolling Motor Dimensions
- 1: 431 mm (17 in.)
- 2: 29 mm (1 1/8 in.)
- 3: Min.: 290 mm (11 3/8 in.); Max.: 422 mm (16 5/8 in.)
- 4: Min.: 470 mm (18 1/2 in.); Max.: 602 mm (23 3/4 in.)
- 5: 527 mm (20 3/4 in.)
- 6: 185 mm (7 5/16 in.)
Remote Control Dimensions
- 7: 1005 mm (39 5/8 in.)
- 8: 385 mm (15 3/16 in.)
- 9: 112 mm (4 3/8 in.)
Stabilizer Dimensions
- 1: 394 mm (15 1/2 in.)
- 2: Min.: 87 mm (3 7/16 in.) (short stabilizer arm); Max.: 196 mm (7 11/16 in.) (long stabilizer arm)
- 3: 32 mm (1 1/4 in.)
- 4: 141 mm (5 9/16 in.)
- 5: 21 mm (13/16 in.)
Remote Control
- Dimensions (W x H x D): 152 x 52 x 32 mm (6 x 2 x 1 1/4 in.)
- Weight: 109 g (3.8 oz) without batteries
- Material: Nylon reinforced with glass fiber
- Display Type: Sunlight-readable, transflective Memory-In-Pixel (MIP)
- Display Resolution: R240 x 240 pixels
- Display Size (diagonal): 30.2 mm (1 3/16 in.)
- Operating Temperature: -15°C to 55°C (5°F to 131°F)
- Storage Temperature: -40°C to 85°C (-40°F to 185°F)
- Battery Type: 2 AA (sold separately)
- Battery Life: 240 hours, typical use
- Radio Frequency: 2.4 GHz at 10.0 dBm (nominal)
- Waterproof Rating: IEC 60529 IPX7
- Safe Distance for Compass: 15 cm (6 in.)