2026 front
station3
expression 2026-manual-EN ?ext= e x p r e s s i o n 2026
Owner's manual
This household sewing machine is designed to comply with IEC/EN 60335-2-28 and UL1594
IMPORTANT SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS
When using an electrical appliance, basic safety precautions should always be followed, including the following: Read all instructions before using this household sewing machine.
DANGER - To reduce the risk of electric shock:
· A sewing machine should never be left unattended when plugged in. Always unplug this sewing machine from the electric outlet immediately after using and before cleaning.
· Always unplug before relamping. Replace bulb with same type rated 5 Watt.
WARNING - To reduce the risk of burns, Àre,
electric shock, or injury to persons:
· Do not allow to be used as a toy. Close attention is necessary when this sewing machine is used by or near children or inÀrm person.
· Use this sewing machine only for its intended use as described in this manual. Use only attachments recommended by the manufacturer as contained in this manual.
· Never operate this sewing machine if it has a damaged cord or plug, if it is not working properly, if it has been dropped or damaged, or dropped into water. Return the sewing machine to the nearest authorised dealer or service center for examination, repair, electrical or mechanical adjustment.
· Never operate the sewing machine with any air openings blocked. Keep ventilation openings of the Sewing machine and foot controller free from the accumulation of lint, dust, and loose cloth.
· Keep Àngers away from all moving parts. Special care is required around the Sewing machine needle.
· Always use the proper needle plate. The wrong plate can cause the needle to break.
· Do not use bent needles. · Do not pull or push fabric while stitching. It may deÁect the needle causing it to break.
· Switch the sewing machine off ("0") when making any adjustment in the needle area, such as threading needle, changing needle, threading bobbin, or changing presser foot, etc.
· Always unplug the sewing machine from the electrical outlet when removing covers, lubricating, or when making any other user servicing adjustments mentioned in the instruction manual.
· Never drop or insert any object into any opening.
· Do not use outdoors.
· Do not operate where aerosol (spray) products are being used or where oxygen is being administrated.
· To disconnect, turn all controls to the off ("0") position, then remove plug from outlet.
· Do not unplug by pulling on cord. To unplug, grasp the plug, not the cord.
SAVE THESE INSTRUCTIONS
Modern, uncomplicated
Sewing by push-button control
Congratulations! You have purchased a highquality product that offers unique advantages. It features the very latest in design and technology, and this instruction book is just as uncomplicated as your PFAFF sewing machine. If you now take time enough to study the instruction book, nothing can go wrong. After all, this is the only way to learn all the things the machine can do, and to make full use of them. If you have any further questions, that is no problem! Your PFAFF dealer will be at your service with any help or advice you need. So now you can get started! We wish you many enjoyable hours of creating your fashion ideas.
Introduction
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1 Introduction Accessories Stitch table
1:4-1:5 1:6-1:8
2 Technical section
Parts of the sewing machine
2:2-2:3
Carrying case
2:4
Lid with stitch chart
2:4
Electrical connection
2:5
Voltage switch
2:5
Accessories
2:6
Removable accessory tray
2:7
Bobbin winding
2:7-2:9
Bobbin case
2:10-2:11
Needle/bobbin thread tension
2:10-2:12
Threading the needle thread
2:12
Integrated needle threader
2:13
Drawing up the bobbin thread
2:14
Presser foot lifter
2:14
Thread cutter
2:14
Changing the presser feet
2:15
Winding a bobbin through the needle
2:16
Changing needles
2:17
Threading twin needle
2:17
Integrated Dual Feed/IDT
2:18-2:19
Lowering feed dog
2:20
3 Sewing functions Stitch selection Altering pattern sizes Altering the stitch width/needle position Altering the pattern width/stitch length Altering the pattern length/stitch density Balance Reverse sewing button Pattern mirror button "Lock" button Twin needle Formation of the stitches
4 Utility stitches Sewing recommendations table Zippers Non-elastic/elastic stitches Overlock stitches Sewing on buttons Darning/inserting patches Gathering Bridging stitches Hemming Shell edging
3:2 3:2
3:3
3:3, 3:4
3:4 3:5 3:5 3:6 3:6 3:7 3:8
4:2 4:3 4:3-4:8 4:9 4:10 4:7-4:8, 4:11 4:12 4:13 4:14 4:15
1:2
Introduction
5 Buttonholes General notes on buttonholes Inserting the buttonhole guide Inserting the buttonhole foot Fully automatic buttonhole Semi-automatic buttonhole/ manual Ànish Manual buttonhole Buttonholes with gimp thread Tips for a perfect buttonhole
5:2 5:2 5:2 5:3
5:3-5:4 5:5 5:6 5:7
7 Maintenance Changing the needle plate Cleaning Changing the sewing lamp Sewing problems and their solutions Index
6 Decorative sewing/ Specialty techniques General notes on decorative sewing Altering pattern width/length for combined borders Combined borders Combined borders using twin needle Free-motion monograms Free-motion embroidery Tapering with satin-stitch zigzag Appliqué Patchwork/QuiIting Cross-stitch Eyelet embroidery Hemstitching
6:2
6:2 6:3 6:3 6:4 6:5 6:6-6:7 6:8 6:9-6:10 6:11 6:12 6:13
7:2 7:2 7:3
7:4-7:5 7:6-7:8
1:3
Introduction
Presser feet (standard accessories)
For more information about accessories, please contact your PFAFF dealer.
Standard Presser Foot with IDT 820250-096
Fancy Stitch Foot with IDT 820253-096
Fancy Stitch Foot 820278-096
Blindhem/Overlock Foot with IDT 820256-096
1:4
Zipper Foot with IDT 820248-096
Buttonhole Foot 820295-096
Darning Foot 820243-096
Rolled Hem Foot with IDT 3 mm 820249-096
Introduction
Edge Guide/Quilting Guide 820251-096
Buttonhole Guide 820294-096
Bulb Remover/Needle Plate Changer 820292-096
Second spool holder Seam ripper Brush
93-033 063-44/000 99-053 016-91/000 93-847 979-91/000
4
1
2
5
3 6
1
Needle box
48-020 804-32/000
2
Felt pad
93-033 064-05/000
3
Bobbins
412 76 79-01
4-6
Spool cap
4. 93-035 050-44/000
5. 93-036 048-44/000
6. 93-036 049-44/000
1:5
Introduction
Utility stitches expression 2026
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
0
10
11
Stitch No. Description
Application
Width up to mm
1
Straight stitch
For seaming and topstitching up to 6 mm. 13 needle positions
-
available for edgestitching or sewing in zippers.
2
Stretch triple straight stitch For reinforced seams such as trousers, under arm seams or
-
decorative topstitching. With 13 needle positions.
3
Zigzag stitch, Center needle For Ànishing seams on fabrics, applique, and inserting lace.
6
position
4
Elastic stitch
Strong stitch for seam Ànishes, sewing elastic, darning tears,
6
and patches.
5
Blind hem stitch
For securing hems invisibly on woven fabrics
6
6
Elastic blind hem stitch
For securing hems invisibly and Ànishing the edge on stretch
6
fabrics.
7
Closed overlock stitch
For hemming and overlapping stretch fabrics in one
6
operation. The closed seam prevents fabric edges from
fraying
8
Bridging stitch
For bridging, decorative hemstitching and crazy quilting.
6
9
Linen buttonhole
Buttonhole for blouses, shirts and linen.
6
0
Button attaching program
For two-hole or four-hole buttons.
6
10
Basting stitch
For basting project pieces together.
11
Quilt stitch
For topstitching quilt projects with a handlook stitch.
1:6
Utility stitches expression 2026
Introduction
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
19
20
21
22
23
Stitch No. Description
12
Zigzag stitch - Right/Left
needle position
13
Lightning stretch stitch
14
Decorative elastic stitch
15
Overlock stitch
Application For applique, couching over cords and creating eyelets.
Width up to mm
6
For joining light weight stretch fabrics and decorative
1
embellishment.
For joining overlapped seams on bulky fabrics such as
6
leathers and terry cloth.
For joining and overcasting stretch fabrics in one operation.
6
16
Honeycomb stitch
Elastic, decorative stitch for ornamental hem Ànishing on
6
stretch fabric, for decorative elastic application and sewing
with elastic thread in the bobbin.
17
Stretch triple zigzag stitch
Elastic stitch for decorative hems and topstitching.
6
18
Cross hem stitch
Provides a highly elastic decorative seam for hems on
6
sportswear and casual wear.
19
Quilting, appliqué or
For handlook quilt applique or pinstitching.
6
pinstitching
20
Cross stitch
Classic decorative stitch for garments, linen and kitchen
6
towels.
21
Closed overlock stitch
For joining and overcasting woven fabric and easily fraying
6
fabrics in one operation. The overcast edge thread prevents
the fabric edges from fraying
22
Hem stitching
For ornamental hem stitching. Can be used with wing needle.
6
23
Hem stitching
For ornamental hem stitching. Can be used with wing needle.
6
1:7
Introduction
Decorative stitches expression 2026
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31
32
33
34
35
36
37
38
39
40
41
42
43
44
45
46
1:8
Technical section
Technical section
Parts of the sewing machine
1 -/+ button A (stitch width/pattern
17 Threading slots
width controls)
18 Needle thread tension
2 -/+ button B (stitch length/pattern length controls)
19 Take-up lever
20 Presser foot lifter 3 -/+ button C (stitch density/balance
controls)
21 Thread guide
4 Carrying handle
22 Spool holder with spool cap
5 Handwheel
23 Hole for second spool holder
6 Direct selection buttons
24 Lid with stitch chart
7 Stitch selection button
25 Bobbin winder
8 Connection socket "lead cord"
26 Bobbin door
9 Connection socket "foot control"
27 Free arm
10 Master switch
28 Sewing bulb (max. 5 W)
11 Base plate
29 Thread cutter
12 Removable accessory tray 13 Presser foot holder with presser foot 14 Integrated dual feed/IDT 15 Integrated needle threader 16 "Reverse sewing" button
30 "Pattern mirror" button/"Lock" button
31 Thread take-up
32 Needle holder with retaining (set) screw
33 Needle plate
2:2
Technical section
19
1 23
4
18
17
5
16 6
15 20
14
13 7
12
8
9
11
10
21
22 23
31
24
25
30
29
28
32 33 27 26
2:3
Technical section
Carrying case
Place the enclosed lead cord, the foot control and instruction book into the compartment of the carrying case.
Lid Open the folding lid (24) upwards.
The stitches of the sewing machine are illustrated on the inside of the lid. The appropriate presser foot to use for each stitch is also illustrated, e.g. Stitch No. 2, use presser foot No. 0.
2:4
Technical section
Electrical connection Connect the lead cord between the socket (8) of the sewing machine and the wall outlet.
For the USA and Canada: This sewing machine has a polarized plug (one blade wider than the other). To reduce the risk of electric shock, this plug is intended to Àt in a polarized outlet only one way. If the plug does not Àt fully in the outlet, reverse the plug. If it still does not Àt, contact a qualiÀed electrician to install the proper outlet.
DO NOT modify the plug in any way!
Connecting the foot control Connect the plug of the foot control to the connection socket (9) of the sewing machine.
The sewing speed is controlled by pressing the foot control.
The foot control type AT 0070 has to be used for this sewing machine.
120 V
220 V... 240 V
Main switch When the main switch (10) is switched on (switch function I) the sewing lamp lights up and program No. 1 is indicated in the expression window.
The sewing machine is now ready to function.
"0" = OFF "I" = ON
Voltage Switch
220 - 240V / 120V
The sewing machine is set to the voltage 220 - 240V. To change the voltage to 120V (US/Canada), you must set the voltage switch on the underside of the machine to 120 V.
If you are unsure of the correct voltage for your country, please check with your authorized sewing machine dealer or local electrical authorities before plugging in your machine.
2:5
Technical section
Accessory tray
Open the accessory tray by placing your left index Ànger on the ridged area on the left of the lid and open the lid upwards and towards you.
Arranging the accessories
The standard accessories are marked with numbers. Arrange the parts in the respective compartments of the accessory tray.
Note: Some fabrics have a lot of excess dye which can cause discoloration on other fabric but also on your sewing machine. This discoloring may be very difÀcult or impossible to remove.
Fleece and denim fabric in especially red and blue often contain a lot of excess dye.
If you suspect that your fabric/ready-to-wear garment contains a lot of excess dye, always pre-wash it before sewing/embroidering to avoid the discoloring.
Accessories (see also pages 1:4-1:5)
2:6
Technical section
Removing the accessory tray (free arm) In order to sew using the free arm, swing the accessory tray to the left and lift it upwards out of the hole. When replacing the tray, make sure it is Áush with the free arm of the sewing machine.
Preparing the machine for bobbin winding Place an empty bobbin so that the black pin of the bobbin winder snaps into the slot of the bobbin. The Pfaff logo is facing up.
Push the bobbin to the right. Note: The bobbin can only be wound if it is moved fully to the right
2:7
Technical section
C
Winding the bobbin from the spool pin
Place the sewing thread on the spool holder. To obtain free movement of the thread and hold the thread spool Àrmly, Àt
a spool cap of the right size for the thread spool.
B
Threading
Place the thread into guide A from the front and pull it
counterclockwise through the pre-tension device B. Pull the
thread under the thread guide C (from back to front). Wind
A
the start of the thread around the bobbin several times in a clockwise direction.
Turn on the machine
Hold the end of the thread Àrmly and press the foot control. As soon as the bobbin is full, the winding action will be stopped automatically. Push the bobbin to the left, cut the thread and remove bobbin from the winder.
2:8
Technical section
C
Winding from the second spool holder
Insert the second spool holder in the hole provided.
Threading
B
Thread as shown on page 2:8.
Turn on the machine
Hold the end of the thread Àrmly and press the foot control.
As soon as the bobbin is full, the winding action will be
A
stopped automatically. Cut the thread, push the bobbin to the left and remove bobbin from the winder.
2:9
Technical section
Bobbin door
Switch off the main switch Hold the bobbin door (26) at the left side and open it towards the front
Taking out the bobbin case
Lift the latch of the bobbin case and pull the bobbin case out of the machine. Release the latch and take the empty bobbin out of the bobbin case.
Thread tension To obtain a perfect seam appearance and durability make sure the needle and bobbin thread tensions are correctly adjusted with regard to each other, i.e. the threads evenly meet between the two fabric layers.
The following is valid for general sewing:
Bobbin thread is visible on the top side of the fabric: The needle thread tension is too tight or the bobbin thread tension is too loose.
The thread tension must be corrected.
Top thread is visible on the underside of the fabric: The needle thread tension is too loose or the bobbin thread tension is too tight.
The thread tension must be corrected.
For decorative stitches and buttonholes the top thread should be visible on the underside of the fabric.
2:10
Technical section
Inserting the bobbin Insert the full bobbin (with the Pfaff logo facing towards the bobbin case) in the bobbin case. When doing so, pull the thread through slot A, then under tension spring B until it rests in the opening (see arrow). Check: When you look at the bobbin and pull the thread, the bobbin must turn clockwise
A
B
Inserting the bobbin case Lift latch E and push the bobbin case fully onto pin C of the sewing hook. Opening D of the bobbin case must face upwards. Check: Pull the bobbin thread sharply. The bobbin case must not fall out of the hook.
2:11
Technical section
B
Threading the needle
Switch off the main switch
Raise the presser foot lifter (20). Place the thread on the spool holder and Àt a spool cap of the right size.
Using both hands, pull the thread into thread guide A from the front. Place the thread from right to left into the pretension device B. Now pass it through the left threading slot downwards. Pull the thread around the stop C in the right threading slot and upwards to the take-up lever (19). The thread must be pulled into the take-up lever from left to right. Pass the thread downwards in the right-hand threading slot. Pull the thread from the side behind one of the two thread guides D.
To thread the needle, please refer to the next page.
A
C D
2:12
Technical section
E F
Integrated Needle threader
In order to make threading the needle easier and quicker, use the PFAFF Integrated Needle threader. Lower the presser foot. Press the threader down with the handle. Threader hook F swivels through the needle eye. Place the thread over hook E and under the thread hook F and hold the end of the thread taut. Reduce the pressure so that the needle threader slowly moves upwards. At the same time the threader hook swivels out of the needle eye and pulls the thread through the eye. Release the end of the thread so a thread loop forms behind the needle. Release the threader and pull the rest of the thread end through the needle eye.
2:13
Technical section
Presser foot lifter
The presser foot is raised or lowered with the presser foot lifter (20).
Drawing-up the bobbin thread
Raise the presser foot. While holding the end of the needle thread, press the foot control so the needle moves down and up. Pull the needle thread to draw up the bobbin thread.
Bobbin thread
Close the bobbin door (26) and pull the thread under the presser foot to the left
Thread cutter
Pull the thread from the back to the front over the thread cutter (29).
2:14
Technical section
Removing the presser foot
Switch off the main switch Press the front part of the presser foot upwards and at the same time the rear part downwards until it disengages from the presser foot holder (13).
Attaching the presser foot
Place the presser foot under the presser foot holder (13), so that when the presser foot lifter (20) is lowered, the pins of the foot engage in the presser foot holder.
Check:
Please check that the presser foot is properly attached by raising the presser foot lifter.
Setting the needle thread tension Set the required amount of the needle thread tension (18) using the markings on the tension dial.
The normal setting for sewing is 4 - 5. For decorative sewing, darning and buttonhole sewing 3.
2:15
Technical section
Winding a bobbin through the needle
It is possible to wind bobbins even when the machine is fully threaded. Raise the presser foot lifter (20) to the top position. Pull the needle thread underneath the presser foot and upward through the right-hand threader slot (17).
Place the thread from left to right through the take-up lever (19).
Important: The take-up lever must be at its highest position.
C
Guide the thread to the right under thread guide C. Wind the beginning of the thread several times around the bobbin in a clockwise direction. Push the bobbin to the right. Hold the end of the thread Àrmly and press the foot control. 2:16
Technical section
Changing the needle
Switch off the main switch
To remove: Lower the presser foot and set the needle to its highest position. Loosen the needle screw (32) and pull the needle out downwards.
To insert: The Áat side A of the
needle must face to the rear.
Lower the presser foot and insert
A
the needle, pushing it up as far
as it will go. Hold the needle and
tighten the needle screw (32) Àrmly.
B
Threading the twin needle: Replace the sewing needle with a twin needle. Insert the second spool holder and place one spool of thread on each of the spool holders. During threading in the left threading slot (17), make sure that you pass one thread each to the left and right sides of tension disk B. Continue threading in the usual manner, making sure the threads do not become twisted together. Pull the threads right and left into the thread guide and thread the needles (for additional details, see "Embroidering with the twin needle"). Note: It is not possible to use the integrated needle threader with a twin needle.
2:17
Technical section
The IDT (Integrated Dual Feed)
For sewing any fabric precisely PFAFF provides the ideal solution: the Integrated Dual Feed, IDT system. As on industrial machines, the IDT feeds the fabric from the top and bottom at the same time. The material is fed precisely. On light fabrics such as silk or rayon the dual feed prevents puckering of the seam. The even feeding action also ensures perfect matching of checked and striped fabrics. The IDT keeps all layers of quilt projects aligned to prevent stretching of the top layers.
2:18
Technical section
Engaging the IDT Important: For all work with the IDT, use presser feet with the center back cut-out.
Raise the presser foot. Press the IDT (14) down until it engages.
Disengaging the IDT
Hold the IDT with two Àngers at the ribbed ankle. Press the IDT (14) down, then pull it away from you and release the IDT slowly upward.
Stripes and plaids match perfectly due to the even feed of the material to be sewn.
2:19
Technical section
Lowering the feed dog
For certain sewing work such as free-motion quilting or darning and when the machine must be cleaned, the feed dog has to be lowered. To do this, open the bobbin door (26) and press slide B fully to the right. Now the feed dog is lowered. To switch on the feed dog press slide B to the left.
Raise the presser foot before lowering or raising the feed dog.
B
2:20
Sewing functions
Sewing functions
Stitch selection There are three ways of selecting your desired stitch:
1. With the selection button: for scrolling backward and forward in the stitches.
> in ascending order
< in descending order
If you are in the last stitch, No. 46, and continue to scroll you will return to stitch No. 0.
2. With the direct selection buttons for instant selection of the most commonly used stitches (0 - 9).
3. With the direct selection buttons to choose the stitch number. To select program No. 23, press button 2 then press button 3. The stitch number appears in the expression window.
Altering stitches
Adjust the length, width, balance, density or needle position
A
of stitches by touching the appropriate -/+ buttons to the
right of the window. Each change is visible in the window.
B
C
If you tap on your foot control while sewing, the needle can be raised or lowered. This does not change the pre-set needle stop position
To change:
Stitch width Pattern width Needle position for straight stitches Stitch length Pattern length Stitch density Pattern density Balance
Use -/+ buttons:
A B C
3:2
Sewing functions
Altering the stitch width The selected stitch can be sewn in various widths, e.g. zigzag stitch No. 3.
Altering the needle position Straight stitch No. 1, stitch No. 2 and stitch No. 11 can be sewn in any of 13 different needle positions. Press -/+ button A to move the needle to left or right of center.
Altering the pattern width e.g. Stitch 25 For decorative stitches, the overall width of the pattern is shown in the window. When entered, stitch 25 comes up in a standard width and can be altered using -/+ button A.
3:3
Sewing functions
Altering the stitch length
The stitch length of a stitch can be altered using +/button B.
Altering the pattern length
The pattern length of decorative stitches can be altered using -/+ button B. The density of the stitch will not change.
Altering the stitch density The stitch density of various stitches (buttonholes, satin stitches, etc.) can be changed. The pattern length will remain constant but the pattern will be embroidered more densely or less densely. Use -/+ button C to adjust the density, when available.
3:4
Sewing functions
Balance Decorative stitches can vary on different fabric types heavy fabric is fed differently than Àne silk. The balance adjusts the reverse feed of the stitch so it is sewn in the best way for different fabrics. After having selected a stitch, you will see the balance symbol with a "0" after it in the bottom right-hand corner of the window. This symbol indicates that the balance can be altered on this stitch.
The standard balance setting is "0". With -/+ button C you can change the reverse feed of the machine from -9 to (+)9. In the minus range the stitches are sewn shorter, and thus the overall length will be sewn shorter. In the plus range the stitches are sewn longer or stretched out.
Reverse sewing If you press this button while sewing, the machine sews in reverse for as long as you keep the button pressed. If you press the reverse button while the machine is stopped, the machine sews in reverse until you press the button again. When sewing a buttonhole, the reverse button is used for stepping between different sections of the buttonhole.
3:5
Sewing functions
"Pattern mirror" button (30)
This symbol will appear in the window for any stitch that can be mirrored. When the "pattern mirror" button has been pressed, a point will appear below the symbol indicating the pattern will be mirrored.
"Lock" button "Pattern mirror" button: (30) You can safeguard your sewing machine against the unintentional selection of another sewing program or another pattern sequence by means of the "lock" button. Switching on the "lock" button: Press the button until the locking symbol appears in the window. The symbol disappears when the button is released. The direct selection buttons (6) and the selection dial are now locked. The stitch length / width, pattern length / width and pattern density / balance can be altered. Note: You can still mirror a pattern if you quickly tap the button (30).
Switching off the "lock" button: Press the button (30) until the unlocking symbol appears. The locking function is now switched off. This symbol disappears after the button is released.
3:6
Sewing functions
Twin needle Depending on the needle position or the width of a stitch, the twin needle warning will appear in the window. This symbol indicates that a twin needle cannot be used to sew the stitch at the currently set width.
Reduce the pattern width until the warning symbol disappears. The stitch may now be sewn with a twin needle of 2.0 mm or less.
3:7
Sewing functions
Formation of the stitches The stitch formation varies. Some patterns are formed from the left, so only the right side of the stitch changes when the width is adjusted. The left-hand side of the stitch is always retained.
The patterns that are formed from the right will always retain the right side of the stitch, regardless of any changes in width. Note: Do not use a twin needle to sew patterns that are formed from one side! Do not use a twin needle if this symbol in the window lights up (see page 3:7).
Patterns that are formed from the center will change equally from the right and the left when the width is adjusted.
3:8
Utility stitches
Utility stitches
Explanation of the sewing recommendations table In the following table you will Ànd the settings we recommend for different sewing purposes.
These tables give you further information required for sewing the selected stitches whether you should sew with the Integrated Dual Feed (IDT) engaged or disengaged, needle thread tension setting and recommended presser foot,.
Stitch
Stitch
Stitch number
Stitch width in mm
Stitch length in mm
IDT
switched on
switched off
Needle thread tension
Number of presser foot
4:2
Utility stitches
Stitch
Stitch
1
-
2.5
3-5
0
1
-
3
3-5
4
Straight stitch
Stitch 1 is the basic straight stitch in center needle position. The stitch length can be increased up to 6 mm. Change the needle position of the straight stitch to sew in a zipper or topstitch along the edge of a collar. The expression 2026 have 13 needle positions that can be adjusted with the -/+ button A.
Sewing in zippers
There are different ways to sew in zippers. Follow the directions included with your pattern for best results.
For all types of zippers it is important to sew close to the teeth of the zipper. The zipper foot can be snapped to the presser foot ankle on the left or right, depending on how you will insert your zipper. Then set the needle position so that it enters close to the edge of the zipper teeth by using one of the 13 needle positions available. If the presser foot is attached on the right side, the needle must only be moved to the right. If the foot is attached on the left, the needle must only be moved to the left.
4:3
Utility stitches
F
C
Stitch
10
-
6.0
-
3
0
Basting stitch With stitch 10 you can baste a garment before trying it on. When you press the foot control, the machine will sew one stitch at a time. Press the foot control again for each stitch.
· Lower the feed dog and disengage the IDT.
· Place the fabric under the presser foot.
· Sew one stitch, then move the fabric the required amount to the rear.
· Continue to sew one stitch at a time until you Ànish basting.
Tip: Light fabrics are easier to baste with long straight stitches (6 mm). In this case the bottom feed need not be lowered. Use stitch 1, stitch length 6.0 mm.
Top stitching
The straight stitch can be sewn in 13 different needle positions allowing you to guide the presser foot along the fabric edge for top stitching. The distance between the rows of topstitching is then determined by the needle positions.
You can also space your rows of topstitching by the width of the presser foot. Begin topstitching further from the fabric edge, by using the guide marks on the needle plate, or the edge guide. The guide marks are given in cm and inches. The edge guide is inserted into hole C and is secured with set screw F.
Feed aid for thick seams To ensure precise feeding at the beginning of a thick seam, place a piece of fabric of the same thickness as the seam under the presser foot to support it.
4:4
Utility stitches
A B
Stitch 5
Stitch 6
Stitch
Stitch
5
4.5
2.5
3-5
3
6
4.5
1.5
3-5
3
Blind hem stitch
The blind hem stitch is used to make invisible hems on skirts, trousers and home decorating.
· Finish the edge of the hem.
· Fold and press the hem allowance inwards.
· Fold the hem back on itself so approximately 1/4 inch (6 mm) of the Ànished edge extends beyond the fold. The wrong side of your project should now be facing up.
· Place the fabric under the presser foot so that the fold runs along edge guide B.
· When the needle swings into the fold it should catch a small amount of fabric. If the stitches are visible on the right side, adjust edge guide B by turning adjusting screw A.
Elastic blind hem stitch The elastic blind hem stitch is especially suitable for stretchy fabrics. The hem is Ànished and sewn at the same time. There is no need to Ànish the raw edge Àrst. Create the blind hem as described under "Blind hem stitch".
4:5
Utility stitches
Stitch
Stitch
3
3.0
2.0
3-5
0
17
4.0
3.0
3-5
0/1
Zigzag stitch
Raw edges can be Ànished easily with zigzag stitch 3. Make sure the needle pierces the fabric on the left swing of the needle and overcasts the edge of the fabric on the right swing of the needle.
Stretch triple zigzag stitch The stretch triple zigzag stitch produces a highly elastic and decorative seam. This stitch can be used for T-shirt hems and with decorative threads on denim.
· Fold up a hem the correct width.
· Topstitch the hem from the right side, or thread the top with decorative thread and sew.
Tip: Lower needle thread tension for decorative threads.
Stitch
2
-
3.0
3-5
0
Stretch triple straight stitch
This stitch is used for sewing seams where strength is needed, such as underarm and crotch seams. The heavier the fabric, the longer the stitch length required.
4:6
Utility stitches
Stitch
4
6.0
1.0
3-5
0/1
Elastic stitch Use stitch 4 to add elastic to pajamas, skirts and sportswear. · To create a waistband, Ànish the top edge of the
garment. · Cut elastic to comfortably Àt around waist.
· Sew the ends of the elastic together.
· Divide the garment edge and elastic into quarters. · Stretch the elastic to Àt the fabric. Sew on elastic.
Stitch
4
6.0
0.2-1
3-5
0
Darning with the elastic stitch
Use the elastic stitch to repair holes, tears and damaged areas.
· If the area is only slightly damaged, sew over it with several rows of stitching until it is well covered.
· For tears, frayed edges or small holes, place a piece of fabric, slightly larger than the damaged area and of the same color, on the wrong side of the fabric. Stitch over the damaged area, then cut away the excess fabric close to the stitching on the back side of your repair.
4:7
Utility stitches
Stitch
Stitch
4
6.0
0.2-1
3-5
0
4
6.0
0.2-1
3-5
0
Sewing-on patches The best way to repair larger holes is to patch the damaged area with a new piece of fabric.
· Cut a piece of fabric slightly larger than the damaged area or hole.
· Stitch over the fabric edges with the elastic stitch.
· Cut back the damaged fabric on the reverse side close to the seam.
Repairing tears On tears, frayed edges or small holes it is useful to lay a piece of material under the reverse side of the fabric. The underlayed fabric reinforces the workpiece and ensures perfect repair.
· Lay a piece of fabric underneath the damaged fabric. It must be a little larger than the damaged area.
· Now sew over the damaged area.
· Cut the under layed piece of material back to the seam.
Stitch
16
6.0
2.0
3-5
0/1
Honeycomb stitch
The honeycomb stitch is an elastic and decorative hem, which is very suitable for children's clothes and lingerie.
4:8
Utility stitches
Overlock stitches
For elastic, knits, woven and stretch fabrics, your expression 2026 provides a selection of overlock stitches. These stitches join multiple layers of fabric and overcast them in one operation. These stitches can stretch and are more durable than standard stitches.
Tip: Use blind stitch foot No. 3 when sewing overcast seams. This guides the fabric more precisely and prevents tunneling of the seam at wider stitch widths. Adjust the stitch width and guide of the foot to ensure that the right swing of the needle clears the raw edge of the fabric and the pin of the presser foot.
Stitch
Stitch
7
6.0
3.0
3-5
0/3
15
6.0
3.0
3-5
0/3
Closed overlock stitch This stitch is suitable for sewing a hem on your garment.
Fold your fabric 3/8" (1 cm) and stitch the closed overlock on the right side of the folded fabric. When you have Ànished, cut away the unne cessary fabric.
Overlock stitch The open overlock stitch works well when joining or edgeÀnishing fabrics that do not fray excessively.
Stitch
21
6.0
3.0
3-5
0/3
Closed overlock stitch with selvage thread
If you wish to sew a fabric that frays easily, select stitch 21. With this stitch an additional edge thread protects the fabric edge against further fraying.
4:9
Utility stitches
Prog.
0
4.0
-
2-3
-/0
Sewing on buttons With Button sewing program 0 you can easily sew on two and four-hole buttons.
· Remove the presser foot and lower the feed dog.
· Mark the button position on your fabric. Place the button on the marked fabric.
· Turn the handwheel towards you and position the button so the needle enters the left hole in the button.
· Lower the presser foot lifter. The button will be held in place by the shank of the foot. Turn the handwheel to make sure the needle also enters the right hole of the button.
· Continue sewing on the button. The machine will complete the program for you.
4:10
Utility stitches
Stitch
1
0
-
-
2-3
6
Darning with the straight stitch
· Attach darning foot No. 6. Turn the handwheel toward you until the needle is set at its highest position. With thumb and index Ànger press the darning foot together. Insert the pin of the darning foot as far as it will go into the hole of the presser foot holder. The "C-shaped" guide should place itself around the presser bar. The long, plastic arm must be behind the needle clamp/ needle set screw. Tighten the set screw.
· Darning position: Lower the presser bar lifter slowly and push it to the rear until it engages in the darning position. In this position the thread tension is engaged for darning.
· Lower the feed dog.
· Draw up the bobbin thread and hold the threads when you start sewing.
· Repair the damaged area/hole by guiding the fabric evenly forwards and backwards. The length of the seam is determined by the size of the hole.
· When you have covered the width of the damaged area, turn the fabric 90 degrees and stitch over the area again. Darning in both directions over a tear will produce a stronger repair.
Tip: Remember, when sewing with the feed dogs lowered, the stitch length is determined by you. An even, medium-to-fast sewing speed will allow you to sew a more consistent length of straight stitch. Sewing too slowly may cause small knots to appear on the reverse side of your work
4:11
Utility stitches
Stitch
Stitch
1
-
6
2-3
0
16
6.0
2.0
3-5
0/1
Gathering with straight stitch
A straight stitch can be used to gather sleeves, cuffs, skirts or valances. To obtain neat and even gathers you should sew two or three rows of gathering stitches.
· Set your stitch length to 6.0 mm. Lower needle thread tension to 3.
· Mark the Àrst gathering line on the right side of the fabric. Sew along this line. Leave about 4 - 5 inches (1013 cm) of thread at the beginning and end of the seam.
· Sew 1 or 2 more rows of stitching, using the edge of the presser foot as a guide.
· Gather the fabric by pulling the bobbin (bottom) threads to the desired fullness.
· Distribute the gathers evenly and knot the thread ends together to secure the gathering.
Tip: It is important to use a strong thread when gathering to avoid thread breakage when pulling on the gathering threads.
Gathering with elastic threads
Gathering with elastic thread is particularly suitable for visible, elastic gathering seams such as blouse sleeves, waist seams or necklines.
· Mark the Àrst gathering row on the fabric. Sew a few stitches until the needle is in the middle of the presser foot. Turn the hand-wheel towards yourself until the needle is in the lowest position. Raise the presser foot and place the elastic thread around the back of the needle.
· Lower the presser foot and sew a few more stitches to secure the elastic thread to the fabric. Continue attaching elastic threads to fabric. Make sure you do not catch the elastic thread in the stitching.
· When you are Ànished attaching the elastic thread, pull on the ends of the elastic threads to gather. The amount of gathering is determined by the amount you pull on the elastic thread. Secure all thread ends.
Tip: Use the cording foot (special accessory) to help guide the elastic thread.
4:12
Utility stitches
Stitch
Stitch
8
6.0
2.0
3-5
0
18
6.0
2.0
3-5
0
Bridging stitch The bridging stitch creates a hemstitching effect. It is often used for connecting two Ànished fabric edges.
· Finish the fabric edges and press the seam allowance to the wrong side.
· Place the fabric under the presser foot with the edges approximately 1/8 inch (3 mm) apart.
· Stitch from the right side of the fabric, making sure that the needle catches the fabric on the right and left sides.
Tip: To make guiding the fabric easier, use the bridging guide (special accessory). It is available in 3 mm and 5 mm widths. The small post on the bottom of the guide is inserted in the small hole at the front of the needle plate.
Cross hem stitch This highly elastic stitch is very suitable for decorative hems.
· Fold the hem allowance to the reverse side.
· Stitch the hem from the right side of the fabric. Trim any excess hem fabric up to the stitching.
4:13
Utility stitches
4:14
Stitch
1
0
3
3-5
7
Rolled hem with hemmer No. 7 Use the rolled hemmer to Ànish the edges of blouses, scarves, or rufÁes without having to iron the edges beforehand. Hemming prevents the edges from fraying and produces a neat and durable edge Ànish.
· Double-fold the fabric edge (about 1/8 inch / 2 mm per fold).
· Place the folded fabric edge under the hemmer and sew a few stitches to secure.
· Turn the handwheel towards you until the needle is at its lowest point. Raise the presser foot and slide the fabric into the scroll of the hemmer.
· Lower the presser foot and while sewing, guide the fabric edge evenly into the hemmer. When rollhemming, make sure the raw edge of the fabric butts against the left edge of the hemmer opening. Ensure the fabric does not run underneath the right side of the presser foot.
Stitch
3
1-3
1-3
3-5
7
Rolled hem with Stitch 3
A narrow zigzag stitch also makes a nice rolled hem on lighter stretch fabrics.
Utility stitches
Stitch
5
4.5
1.5
Tip: Add a colored pearl cotton thread on the folded edge as you sew the shell tuck. This creates a pretty contrast and strengthens the hem.
4-5
0
Shell edging Shell edging is a very effective Ànish for thin, soft fabrics such as silk and rayon fabrics. It is frequently used as a hem Ànish on lingerie.
· Select blind stitch No. 5 and mirror it with the "Pattern mirror" button .
· Tighten the needle thread tension to create a deeper shell tuck.
· Finish the raw edge and press the seam allowance to the left.
· While sewing, make sure the fabric runs under the presser foot at half of the foot width, and the blind hem swings over the folded edge.
4:15
Buttonholes
Buttonholes
5:2
Buttonholes Your expression has the perfect buttonhole for every fabric and garment. Whether you wish to sew buttonholes on jackets, pants (trousers), blouses or stretch fabrics, 2 different buttonholes give your garments the professional touch. Insert the buttonhole guide to support the feed motion of the fabric. Place the fabric between the buttonhole foot and the guide. This ensures that the guide moves, rather than the fabric itself, guaranteeing an even feed motion. Buttonholes can thus be sewn even in difÀcult materials, such as plush velvet, knitwear or thick woollens. The buttonhole guide ensures that perfect buttonholes can be sewn on even the most difÀcult of fabrics such as velvet, plush, knitted fabrics and heavy knits. Your expression offers you three ways of sewing a buttonhole: · fully automatically · semi-automatically · manual
Inserting the sensormatic buttonhole guide: Push the metal part of the buttonhole guide into the slot (between the two arrows) on the back of the needle plate. The white part extends over the needle plate. Press the guide towards the front as far as it will go. It must spring back slightly so that there is a small gap between the guide and the back of the machine.
Attaching buttonhole foot No. 5: Use buttonhole foot No. 5 to sew buttonholes. Before starting to sew, pull the runner of the foot toward the front to the second red mark (also see "Changing the presser foot" page 2:15). Snap on buttonhole foot No. 5.
Buttonholes
Fully automatic buttonhole Fully automatic buttonholes are accomplished by pressing button 9. Adjust the size of the buttonhole by using the -/+ button B. You can also adjust the buttonhole width (-/+ button A) and the buttonhole density (-/+ button C). Sew as many buttonholes as you wish. Your expression will continue to sew the same size buttonhole until you make adjustments.
Semi-automatic buttonhole You can also Ànish a buttonhole manually by pressing the "reverse sewing" button one time after the Àrst bartack is sewn. This will allow you to place the last or back bartack where you want it.
The word "man" appears in the expression window, after you have touched reverse. This indicates a manual Ànish of the buttonhole is desired. Before the left side of the buttonhole ends, the machine will slow down. When the left side of the buttonhole is the same length as the right side of the buttonhole press the "reverse sewing" button (16) once again.
5:3
Buttonholes
The second bartack will be sewn and complete the buttonhole. The word "auto" appears in the window.
All remaining buttonholes will now be sewn automatically.
Note: If the length or stitch density of a programmed buttonhole is changed, the programming is cancelled. Reprogramming with a new length value or a new density is required.
5:4
Buttonholes
Manual buttonhole You can also set the length of the buttonhole while sewing. Select the desired buttonhole. Press the "reverse sewing" button. The word "man" appears in the window. The buttonhole length, set previously, disappears.
Once you have reached the desired length, press the "reverse sewing" button once again. The machine will now sew the Àrst bartack and the second side of the buttonhole.
Before the left side of the buttonhole ends, the machine will slow down. To complete the buttonhole with a second bartack, press the "reverse sewing" button once again. The machine will sew the second bartack and complete the buttonhole.
The word "auto" appears in the window.
All remaining buttonholes can now be repeated fully automatically.
Note: The programming of the buttonhole is deleted when another stitch is selected.
You can also place the last bartack manually, even after the buttonhole has been programmed. Press the "reverse sewing" button one time after you have stitched the Àrst bartack. The word "man" appears in the window. This indicates a manual Ànish of the buttonhole is desired. Before the left side of the buttonhole ends, the machine will slow down. When the left side of the buttonhole is the same length as the right side of the buttonhole press the "reverse sewing" button (16) once again.
The second bartack will be sewn and complete the buttonhole. The word "auto" appears in the window. All remaining buttonholes can now be Ànished manually, by pressing the "reverse sewing" button (16) at the end of the left side of the buttonhole.
Keyhole buttonhole Keyhole buttonholes can be sewn with the buttonhole foot.
The keyhole buttonhole can be sewn fully automatically, semi-automatically and manually.
Warning: The keyhole buttonhole must be sewn with the rounded end towards the edge of your garment/project. However, the buttonhole will begin sewing from the bartack end. It is important to Àrst mark the length, measuring from the starting point inwards. Always sew the buttonhole from the inside to the outside towards the edge.
Choose stitch 46. A standard keyhole buttonhole will appear in the window along with the width, length and stitch density indications. These settings can be altered,
Tip: Cut open all buttonholes with the seam ripper. Open the curve of the keyhole buttonhole with a belt punch or awl.
5:5
Buttonholes
5:6
Buttonhole with gimp thread Buttonholes that are sewn with gimp threads are more durable and will not stretch. Use pearl cotton or a regular gimp thread approximately the same color as the sewing thread to stitch over. Place the center of a length of gimp thread over the metal bar extending from the center, back of the buttonhole foot. Pass the thread ends under the foot and pull up into the right and left guides on the clamp at the front of the presser foot. Buttonhole No. 9 can now be sewn.
After completing the buttonhole, pull the ends of the gimp thread until the loop of thread is hidden below the buttonhole bartack. Cut off the gimp threads just behind the Ànal bartack.
Keyhole buttonhole with gimp thread Place the center of a length of gimp thread over the metal bar extending from the center, front of the buttonhole foot. Pass the thread ends under the foot and pull up into the right and left guides on the clamp at the back of the presser foot. Guide the gimp thread along the foot at the side. Sew the right-hand seam of the buttonhole. After the machine sews the Àrst few stitches of the curved end pull the gimp thread down from the clamp with a straight pin.
Warning: The presser foot must not be raised from the fabric surface. Pull the gimp thread on the left towards the rear until the loop is just in front of the needle. Carefully sew the curve. After sewing the curve, hold the gimp thread a little more taut and Ànish sewing the buttonhole. Cut off the excess gimp thread.
Buttonholes
Buttonhole tips: · A wider, less dense buttonhole is recommended on
heavy fabrics. · Use presser foot No. 1 for buttonholes that are to be
sewn very close to a reinforced edge. · Materials that shift or stretch easily should be reinforced
with water-soluble, tissue paper or other lightweight stabilizer. · Keyhole buttonholes are particularly stable and durable if a gimp thread is inserted while sewing (see "Keyhole buttonhole with gimp thread"). · Linen buttonholes are particularly dense and attractive if you use buttonhole twist thread. · Buttonholes are normally selected a little larger than the button diameter. It is important to always sew a test buttonhole on the same fabric/stabilizer as your project
5:7
Decorative sewing/ Specialty techniques
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
General notes on decorative sewing To enhance your own home textiles or garments your expression offers you a wide variety of fancy and decorative stitches. Create a greater variety of embellishments by combining different patterns, colors and sizes. Use specialty decorative threads to enhance the lovely stitching.
Always use stabilizers under fabric when sewing decorative stitches. Properly stabilizing your fabric will help eliminate distortion of your decorative stitches.
The following recommendations apply to all decorative sewing:
The stitch length and width can be altered as desired.
Lower the upper thread tension to between 2-3. Adjust as needed so bobbin thread does not pull to the top side of your project. Your embroidery results will be much prettier if your tension is properly adjusted.
Presser foot No. 1 (for dual feed) and No. 2 (without dual feed) are most suitable for decorative work. We recommend presser foot. No. 2 for heavier fabrics.
Changing the pattern width
The pattern width can be altered using -/+ button A (1). The width can also be adjusted while sewing.
Changing the pattern length
The pattern length can be altered using -/+ button B (2). The length can also be adjusted while sewing.
6:2
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Combined Borders Create borders of any width by combining different decorative stitches. Embroidery threads give shiny, smooth stitching results and come in many colors and weights. Place stabilizer under fabric. Mark the center of your fabric with a fabric marking pen/ pencil. Sew stitch 43; stitch width 6 mm along your line. Next press the "Pattern mirror button" (30). Position your fabric even with the top of the Àrst row of stitching. Sew the second row of stitching directly across from the Àrst. Sew stitch 3; stitch density 0.2 mm and stitch 45 along each side of your center embroidery. Your completed border should now have six rows of decorative stitching.
Twin needle Additional decorative effects can be achieved using a twin needle. The illustration shows what beautiful borders can be created with just a little imagination! Note: DO NOT use a twin needle when the warning symbol appears in the window (see page 3:7).
6:3
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Free motion monograms Use stitch 3 (stitch width 3-6 mm) to create wonderful monogram initials of your own design. Transfer the initials with a fabric marker to the area to be embroidered. Attach the darning foot and bring it into the darning position (see page 4:11). Lower the feed dog. Place a tear-away stabilizer under your fabric. Then place a piece of water-soluble stabilizer on the right side of the fabric. Place the fabric in an embroidery hoop and use the zigzag stitch, in varying widths, to follow your traced lines. Do not forget to use the darning position. Knot the threads on the back of your project and remove the stabilizers. The remaining water-soluble stabilizer will dissolve in water. Tip: Sewing at a medium to fast speed will allow you to move the fabric more slowly, and give you more control of your freemotion monogram. A slightly faster speed will also give you more consistency in the density of your stitches. Practice on scrap fabric until you are comfortable with the free-motion technique.
Block capitals are a little easier to embroider. Simply stitch along the marked lines with stitch 3, stitch width 3-6 mm and stitch density 0.2 - 0.3 mm. Apply stabilizer under the fabric and water-soluble stabilizer on the top of the fabric. Mark the monogram on the fabric. Sew along the marked lines with the zigzag stitch.
6:4
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Free motion embroidery These striking embroidery designs can easily be sewn with your expression. Set your expression as for free motion monograms. Draw the outline of the embroideries on fabric where you want to stitch them. Follow the instructions and tips for free motion monograms to stitch your embroideries.
6:5
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Tapering with the satin-stitch zigzag With your expression you also have the option of increasing or decreasing the width of the zigzag stitch in 0.5 mm increments. This technique of adjusting the width of a zigzag seam is called TAPERING. You can achieve great effects by adjusting the size of a wide zigzag stitch.
6:6
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Manual change/ Regular pattern · Place stabilizer under fabric.
· Set needle thread tension to 3. Select the zigzag stitch needle position (stitch 12). Pressing the "Pattern mirror button" (16) will change the stitch from a right (C) to left (A) needle position stitch. Zigzag stitch 3 is used when a center (B) needle position motif is desired.
· Set stitch length to 0.2 - 0.3 mm. Begin sewing.
· With -/+ button A increase the width from 0 to 6 mm and reduce it again to 0 mm.
Note: If you have selected the right or left needle position, the stitch width only changes in one direction.
A
B
C
A
B
Manual change/ Irregular pattern · Place stabilizer under fabric.
· Set needle thread tension to 3. Select zigzag stitch 12 for motifs with a right or left needle position or zigzag stitch 3 for motifs with a center needle position.
· Set stitch length to 0.2 - 0.3 mm.
· Using -/+ button A increase and reduce the width while sewing.
Note: If you have selected the right or left needle position, the stitch width only changes in one direction. Try creating Áowers and leaves with this technique.
These larger embroideries are perfect for home decorating projects like placemats, cushions and valances.
C
6:7
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Satin stitch mitered corners Mitered corners (with an angle of 45°) can be achieved by altering the width of the satin stitch zigzag while sewing. · Select zigzag stitch 12 (right needle position). · Set stitch width to 6 mm, stitch length to 0.2-0.3 mm. · Set the needle thread tension to 3. · Satin stitch a single straight line. · To miter the corner, lower the needle into the fabric on
the right side of the stitch, reduce the stitch width using the -/+ button A (1) by 0.5 mm. Sew one stitch. · Reduce the width again by 0.5 mm and sew one stitch. Continue until the stitch width is reduced to 0.5 mm. · Turn the handwheel towards yourself until the needle pierces the fabric in the right-hand position. Turn the fabric 90° and sew one stitch. · Increase the width by 0.5 mm to 1 mm. Sew one stitch. · Increase the width by 0.5 mm again and sew one stitch. Continue until the starting width is reached. · Continue embroidering a straight line at the 6.0 mm width. If the corner is to run in the opposite direction, work with the left-hand needle position (stitch 12 and "Pattern mirror button" (30)).
Decorative buttonhole This buttonhole is an attractive variation of the classic linen buttonhole. Since you determine the seam width yourself the buttonhole can be up to 12 mm wide. · Set stitch No. 3, stitch width 3 mm, stitch length 0.2 mm. · Set needle thread tension at 3. · Sew two seams 1 mm apart the length of desired
buttonhole. · Select stitch No. 12 and stitch over the two ends with a
triangle. · Using -/+ button A (1), alter the stitch width gradually
from 0 mm to 3 mm and back to 0 mm during sewing. The tip of the triangle should meet in the middle of the two seams.
6:8
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Appliqué designs Appliqués are easily created and produce a beautiful effect. By using a variety of materials and patterns you can obtain many different effects. You can make a perfect densely stitched seam with the applique foot (special accessories). The special cutout on the sole allows the extra thickness of a satin stitch zigzag to pass smoothly under the foot. Fusible webbing keeps the appliqué in place so you can easily stitch around the form. · Snap on the applique foot. · Transfer your pattern to the paper side of the fusible
webbing remember that any letters or numbers have to be drawn as a mirror image. · Iron the paper-backed webbing to the back side of the appliqué fabric. Cut the motif out and pull off the paper. · Place the appliqué pieces on base fabric and iron securely. · Stitch around all appliqués with appliqué stitch (No. 19) or with a narrow, satin-stitch zigzag, stitch width 2 - 4 mm, stitch length 0.2 to 0.6 mm. Make sure the stitch covers the outer edge of the appliqué so that no fraying occurs later.
Tip: If a taper is required you can narrow the satin stitch zigzag in 0.5 mm increments with the -/+ button A (see Tapering, page 6:6-6:7).
6:9
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Patchwork quilt Patchwork and quilting are traditional handicraft techniques which were originally used by North American pioneer women to make use of leftover fabric. Over the years it has developed into a creative hobby. A patchwork quilt consists of three layers of fabric, two layers of fabric with a layer of batting sandwiched between. Many pieces of fabric are joined together in patterns to form the top layer of the quilt. This is tacked to a middle layer of polyester or cotton batting and a backing layer. The quilt and patchwork foot (special accessory) is particularly helpful for sewing patchwork and quilting. The distance of the needle to the outer edge of the foot is 1/4 inch (6 mm) and 1/8 inch (3 mm) to the inner edge). In traditional quilting the three layers are joined together with small hand stitches to create beautiful family heirlooms. The sewing machine makes accomplishing this technique much easier and faster! The expression 2026 have quilt stitch No. 11, which enables you to quickly and easily achieve a hand-quilted look! Use invisible sewing thread (nylon monoÀlament) as the needle thread and wind the bobbin with cotton thread to contrast or blend with the colors of your quilt top. The needle thread tension must be set quite tight (7), and the bobbin thread tension quite loose (approximately 1/4 turn counterclockwise) to allow the needle thread to pull the bobbin thread to the top of your quilt. When you sew the stitch on the three layers of fabric of the quilt you only see the triple stitch of the bobbin thread. The intermediate stitch disappears and thus appears to be handquilted.
Quilt stitch 11 and 19 Quilt stitch 11 and 19 enable you to achieve a wonderful hand-quilted look. Stitch 11 works equally well for topstitching on jackets and overcoats. Combining the quilt stitch with other decorative stitches can create unique new patterns.
6:10
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
And this is how it's done: · Cut the pieces necessary for your quilt top, making sure
to include a seam allowance of 1/4 inch (6 mm). · Sew the pieces together as required by the block chosen.
These squares will then be sewn together and will form the top of the quilt. · Baste the Ànished top of the quilt onto the batting and the bottom quilt layer. · Use your expression to sew all layers together. Work from the center of the quilt out. Use a straight stitch for long seams. Experiment with other stitches on a scrap of fabric. Contact your Pfaff dealer, library, or bookstore for more information on quilting.
6:11
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Cross-stitch Cross-stitch embroidery has always been a wonderful traditional, embroidery technique. What used to be stitched by hand with a great deal of effort can now be sewn with the expression with astonishing ease and speed. With cross-stitch No. 20, design your own cross-stitch combinations. These patterns look as if they were hand-embroidered and give a special touch to table linen, towels or garments. Tips for cross-stitching: · Sew slowly. · Use foot No. 2. · Place stabilizer under the fabric. · You can embroider on Aida cloth as used for hand cross-stitching. The length and width of the cross-stitches of your
expression can be altered depending on the count/size of the Aida cloth squares. · Use decorative threads to make your cross-stitch look more professional.
6:12
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Eyelet embroidery Eyelet embroidery enhances your linens and blouses. Using an eyelet plate (special accessory) and various utility and decorative stitches beautiful embroidery can be produced. And this is how it's done: · Lower the feed dog. · Place the eyelet plate onto the needle plate making
sure that the pin (A) at the back of the plate Àts into the middle cutout of the needle plate. Push the plate down at the front. · Tightly hoop your marked embroidery fabric. · With small scissors cut one or two of the fabric threads at the center of the marked eyelet area and push the fabric over the pin of the eyelet plate. The fabric must Àt snugly around the pin. · Remove the presser foot · Place the presser foot lifter in the darning position. · Pull up the bobbin thread and hold it for the Àrst few stitches. · Stitch around the cut with zigzag pattern No. 3. While doing so, turn the hoop with the fabric slowly and evenly. The stitches should be very close to each other. · Secure with a few straight stitches.
6:13
Decorative sewing/Specialty techniques
Hemstitching This is a technique everyone recognizes but was previously only embroidered by hand! With your expression you can produce hemstitching much quicker and easier. Special hemstitches No. 22 and 23 are built into your machine. By changing the stitch length and width you can achieve different effects. Use a wing needle for hemstitching. (A normal needle is only used for very light fabrics size 80.) Hemstitching is most successful on woven natural fabrics from which single threads can be easily pulled. Embroidery and darning thread, particularly cotton, are very suitable. With the hemstitches on your expression, various techniques can be applied.
Traditional hemstitching · Use stitches No. 22 and 23 to create lovely hemstitched
holes. · Sew the appropriate program on a piece of test fabric. For pulled thread hemstitching: · Count the threads of the fabric within the area of the
sewn pattern. Adjust the pattern width so the needle is not piercing a thread to be pulled, but falling to the side of the threads of your fabric. This will allow you to easily remove the threads within the pattern area. · Pull 1 - 3 threads out of the material to the right and left of the pattern. · Overstitch the remaining threads with the selected program. The needle must enter the pulled threads on both sides close to the edges.
6:14
Maintenance
Maintenance
Changing the needle plate Switch off the main switch.
Removal · Raise the presser foot. Position the needle plate changer
(lamp changer) as shown, and press the needle plate up on the right, then on the left. It can now be easily removed. Replacing · Place the needle plate against the rear edge of the cutout then press down at the front until you hear it snap in place. Before you start sewing, check that the needle plate is lying Áat. Tip: Lower the feed dog to make removing the needle plate easier.
Cleaning Switch off the main switch.
· Remove the needle plate and lower the feed dog. Clean the feed dog and hook area with the brush.
· Clean the sewing machine every 10 - 15 hours of operation.
Cleaning the display Wipe the display with a soft, lint-free dry cloth. DO NOT use aggressive cleansers or solvents!
7:2
Maintenance
Changing the light bulb Switch off the main switch.
· Disconnect the lead cord and the foot control plug from the machine.
· Remove the accessory tray. The light bulb is located inside the sewing machine near the needle threader.
Bulb removal Push the bulb remover, as shown in the Àgure, up as far as it will go. Now turn the bulb half a rotation counterclockwise and remove the bulb. Insertion of the bulb Insert the bulb in the lamp changer. Guide the bulb into the diagonal holder and turn it until the pins of the bulb engage. Push the bulb upward into the holder as far as it will go and turn it half a rotation in a clockwise direction. Remove the bulb changer from the bulb, the bulb is held Àrmly. Important: The maximum wattage of the bulb is 5 watts. Bulbs can be purchased from your PFAFF dealer.
7:3
Maintenance
Sewing problems and their solutions
Problem/Cause The machine skips stitches The needle is not properly inserted. Wrong needle is in use. Needle is bent or blunt. The machine is not properly threaded. Needle is too small for thread.
Remedy
Push needle fully upwards. Flat side facing the back. Use needle system 130/705 H. Insert a new needle. Check how the machine is threaded. Use a larger needle.
Needle thread breaks See reasons above. Thread tension is too tight. Thread is poor or has slubs in it, or has become dry after overlong storage Thread is too thick.
See above. Adjust thread tension. Only use good quality threads.
Use needle with large eye (system 130 N).
Needle breaks off Needle is not pushed fully in. Needle is bent Needle is too thick or too thin.
Needle is bent, and has hit the needle plate because you are pulling or pushing the fabric. The bobbin case is not properly inserted.
Insert new needle and push fully in. Insert different type of needle. Insert different type of needle. Only guide the fabric lightly.
When you insert the bobbin case, push it fully into the stop. Pull lightly on the end of the thread to make sure bobbin case is secure.
The seam is sewn unevenly The tension needs adjusting. Thread is too thick, stubbed or hard. The bobbin thread is unevenly wound.
Thread loops at top or underside of fabric.
Check needle thread tension.
Only use good quality threads.
Do not wind thread by hand. Make sure thread is pulled solidly into bobbin tension spring. Check bobbin threading path
Re-thread machine, making sure presser foot is raised to its highest position. This ensures that needle thread is securely in thread tension system. Adjust thread tension as needed.
7:4
Maintenance
Problem/Cause The machine does not feed or feeds irregularly Sewing lint has collected between the feed dog teeth rows. Feed dog is lowered. Slide B is at the right (see page 2:20) The needle plate is not lying Áat.
The machine is running with difÀculty There are thread remnants in the hook ways.
Remedy
Remove needle plate, remove lint with brush.
Push slide B to the left. Push slide B to the left. Press downwards at the front of the needle plate until you hear it snap into place.
Remove the threads.
The machine does not sew the selected stitch
Switch off the machine, wait 10 seconds and switch on again. Select the desired stitch again. Before changing presser feet and needle the main switch must be switched off. Do not attempt to sew without fabric under the presser foot. When leaving the machine, even for only a short time, switch off the main switch. This is important if there are any children nearby.
Display incorrect or no display
When static electricity is being discharged some segments of the display will fail.
Switch off the machine on completion of the sewing operation and then turn it back on again after approx. 10 seconds. All segments must appear again on the display. Select the desired stitch again
Non-original Parts and Accessories
The warranty does not cover any defect or damage caused by use of non-original accessories or parts.
7:5
Maintenance
Index of headings
A
Accessories Applique designs
1:4-5, 2:6 6:8
B
Balance Basting Blind hem Bobbin case Bobbin thread tension Bobbin thread, drawing up Bobbin winding Bobbin winding through the needle Bridging Buttonhole, fully-automatic Buttonholes Buttonholes with gimp thread Buttonhole tips Buttons, sewing on
3:5 4:2 4:3 2:10-11 2:11 2:14 2:7-9 2:16 4:13 5:3 5:2-8 5:6 5:7 4:10
C
Carrying case
2:4
Cleaning
7:2
Combined borders
6:3
Combined borders with twin needle
6:3
Cross hem stitch
4:13
Cross-stitch
6:11
D
Darning, sewing on patches Decorative sewing, general notes Decorative stitches
4:7-8, 4:11 6:2 1:8
7:6
E
Elastic utility stitches Electrical connection Eyelet embroidery
F
Feed dog, lowering Foot control, connecting Free motion embroidery
G
Gathering
H
Hemming, rolled Hemstitching
I
IDT (Integrated Dual Feed) Invisible hems, blind stitch
L
Lid with stitch program chart Light bulb, changing "Lock" button
M
Master switch Monograms, Free motion
N
Needle plate, changing Needle threader, Integrated Needle, changing Needle, threading Needle/bobbin thread tension Non-elastic/elastic stitches
4:5-9, 4:13 2:5
6:12
2:20 2:5 6:5
4:12
4:14 6:13
2:18-19 4:5
2:4 7:3 3:6
2:5 6:4
7:2 2:13 2:17 2:12 2:10-12 4:3-8
O
Overlock stitches
P
Parts of the sewing machine Patchwork and quilting Pattern length/pattern width, changing for decorative stitches Pattern length/stitch density Pattern mirroring Pattern settings, altering Pattern sizes, altering Pattern width/stitch length, altering Presser feet (standard accessories) Presser foot lifter Presser foot, changing
Maintenance
4:9
2:2-3 6:9-10
Thread tension, general notes Threading Tips for a perfect buttonhole Top feed (integrated dual feed) Twin needle Twin needle, threading
2:10 2:12-13
5:7 2:18-19
3:7 2:17
6:2 3:4 3:6 3:2-5 3:2 3:3-4 1:7-8 2:14 2:15
U
Utility stitches
V
Voltage switch
Z
Zippers, sewing in
1:6-7 2:5 4:3
R
Removable accessory tray Repairing tears Reverse sewing Roll hemming
S
Sewing problems and their solutions Sewing programs, selecting Shell edging Stitch patterns, formation Stitch table Stitch width/needle position, altering
2:7 4:8 3:5 4:14
7:4-5 3:2
4:15 3:8 1:6-8 3:3
T
Tapering with satin-stitch zigzag
6:6
Technical data
7:6
Thread cutter
2:14
7:7
Technical data
Dimensions (w x h x d) Weight Nominal voltage (reversible) Power consumption Sewing lamp Sewing speed
Stitching width Stitching length Presser foot lift Max. presser foot height Needle system
Package contents
Sewing machine Carrying case Foot control Lead cord Accessories Instruction manual
408 x 290 x 187 mm 8.3 kg 220 - 240 V / 120 V 75 W 12 V / max. 5 W max. 950 stitches/min min. 80 stitches/min 0 ... 6 mm 0 ... 6 mm 8mm 10.5 mm 130 / 705 H
We reserve the right to change the machine equipment and the assortment of accessories without prior notice, or make modiÀcations to the performance or design. Such modiÀcations, however, will always be to the beneÀt of the user and the product.
Please note that on disposal, this product must be safely recycled in accordance with relevant National legislation relating to electrical/ electronic products. If in doubt please contact your retailer for guidance
VSM Group AB · SE-561 84 Huskvarna · SWEDEN www.pfaff.com
412 93 26 - 26B · English · Inhouse · © 2005-2007 VSM Group AB · Printed in Sweden on environmental-friendly paper
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