Introduction
This document is intended to help guide those who are considering purchasing an e-bike. The document asks the consumer what the intended use of the bike is: road, trail, gravel, or mountain, and follows this with descriptions of the frame types, drive trains, and wheel/tire/suspension choices to meet the consumer's needs. Then, it describes some practical issues outside of the bike itself. The document takes advantage of the author's knowledge and the acquired experience of the members of the Probus Blue Mountain Cycling group.
Quick Do's and Don'ts
Do not buy a cheap, obscure branded e-bike from Amazon or Alibaba. Many of these bikes do not have UL certified batteries and chargers and they are often a fire hazard. You can read many stories in the press about e-bike fires. Ensure you get a bike from a main brand that can assure you its batteries, chargers, and motors meet and are certified to the UL (or EU or Canadian equivalent) standard.
Do ensure you can have your bike serviced locally. E-bikes require service and maintenance, so make sure you can get your bike maintained locally because, if you buy online and can't get the bike serviced locally, you may end up with an unusable bike. Bikes bought on-line often need adjustments, etc., when delivered, and, of course, this will need to be done locally. Also, unless you have previous experience, you want to be able to see the bike and take a test ride.
Considerations to Start Narrowing Down Your Choice
- Intended Ride Type: Where do you intend to ride? Road, trail (e.g., Georgian Trail), gravel (e.g., Old Mail Road), or mountain (e.g., 3 Stages)? Or a combination of road, trail, and light gravel? Most e-bikes fall into the latter category.
- Frame Type: A step-thru or top-tube (step-over) frame. Step-thru frames make getting on and off the bike easier. HOWEVER, when selecting a step-thru, make sure there is plenty of room to lift your foot through, as some do not.
- Handlebar Type: Drop bar or flat bar. Select a bike with the position that is most comfortable for you. Bikes come in different configurations, from road style (drop bars) to commuter style (similar to a road bike, but configured with a flat bar), dual-purpose (slightly more relaxed than a commuter and usually with front suspension), and cruiser (very upright, like a Dutch bike). There are various categories of hardtail and full-suspension mountain bikes.
- Distance and Hills: How far do you intend to ride, and will you be doing a lot of hills? These factors influence the range you will get from your battery. Obviously, your weight has an impact. A big consideration is how much power you will use. The bikes have several levels of power, and if you use a higher level, the distance you can travel decreases (obviously affected by wind also). If you intend to ride up to 50 K or so, most bikes will handle this without an issue. If you want to go on longer rides, do a lot of climbing, or use a high level of assist, this must be taken into consideration.
E-bike Categories
There are many types of e-bikes. Some are mopeds with pedals that don't work, and many are heavy bikes with throttles that are essentially motorcycles, as people simply use the throttle and never pedal. There are three generally accepted categories:
- Class I: Assist up to 32 km/hr, no throttle.
- Class II: 32 km/hr and having a throttle.
- Class III: 48 km/hr, no throttle.
In Ontario, only 32 km/hr speed capability and motors of no more than 500 watts are legal, but areas of the code are vague. In many states (not all), the 30 mph (48 km/hr) speed limit is legal. There is no mention in Ontario about throttles. Many of the e-bikes seen are not legal, but nothing is enforced. Dealers in Ontario only sell 32 km/hr top speed and 500 watt or less e-bikes. Many are available with a throttle or 'walk mode' (5 km/hr speed to help walk the bike).
E-Bike Build Options
Drive Train
- Motor Type: Hub motors (in the rear wheel) or bottom bracket motors (within the crank set). Bikes with bottom bracket motors are more stable than those with motors in the rear hub (avoid bikes with a motor in the front hub), especially at speed or on downhills, but they are somewhat more expensive. For casual riding, a bottom bracket is nice but not necessary.
- Gearing: Drive trains are generally single chainring with a rear derailleur for multiple gears. Belt drive systems are available but are not mainstream. Disc brakes are standard.
- Weight: A lot of difference in pricing is in weight. Weight is dependent on several factors, including the type of bike (road versus hybrid, as an example). At the low end of the weight scale, road bikes will come in at about 30 lbs. Commuter bikes will be in the 40 lb range, while hybrids weigh 55 lbs or more.
- Tires and Suspension: A lot of comfort comes down to tire size. Front suspension can add comfort for heavier bikes, especially on rough services. Bikes in the 40 lb range are very comfortable on 38-40mm tires with no suspension. Heavier bikes will most often use front suspension and 2-to-2.4-inch tires. Front suspension adds weight and complexity.
- Power Delivery: The bike senses the requirement to provide boost by either a cadence or torque sensor, unless you are using the throttle. A cadence sensor measures rotation when you pedal. A torque sensor measures the amount of pressure you are applying to the pedals. They both have pros and cons. Torque sensors are most often used with bottom bracket motors. Many higher-end bikes now use a combination of these sensors. [Learn more about sensors]
Bike Examples
The following are examples of bikes from major brands that are available locally within the three categories of interest to most Probus Blue Mountain members: road, commuter, and hybrid. These are not recommendations; they are simply examples of the bike types.
Road Bikes
These are 'drop bar' top-tube bikes with bottom bracket motors and no throttles, although a couple of brands use light-weight hub motors. At the high end of each brand's road e-bikes, the bikes are almost indistinguishable from standard road bikes and their weight is around 30 lbs. In most cases, they will come with 32 or 35mm tires but can be fitted with wider tires, making them suitable for gravel. They are aimed at road bike aficionados.
Review the specs of examples 1 and 2 to get the specs and pricing.
Commuter Flat Bar Bikes
These are 'flat bar sporty' bikes. They vary somewhat in drivetrain (bottom bracket or hub motor). They are in the 40 lb range and there is usually both a top-tube and step-thru model. They do not have throttles.
- Example 1: Specialized Turbo Vado SL (basically a road bike with flat bars) [Link]
- Example 2: Trek FX+ (A light-weight commuter bike) [Link]
Hybrid Bikes
These are what most of the PBM cycling group riders are riding. These bikes are either top-tube or step-thru frames. They have front suspension. They come with lights, fenders, and rear racks. They have throttles. They generally start at around 55 lbs and go up in weight from there. Price ranges from about $1800 on up. They are available from a multiplicity of brands, including the majors, such as Specialized, Trek, Cannondale, and Cube, to newer brands such as heybike (with its Cityrun, which several of our members have) to iGo (with its Discovery and Core lines). Their positions on the bike (geometry) go from very upright, such as the heybike, to more of a hardtail mountain bike geometry on many of the others.
Conclusions
The first thing you must do is start narrowing down your choices by considering the answers to the questions on Page 2. Then, decide what type of bike you are interested in: road, commuter, or hybrid. Then, you can consider price.
Also, unless you have experience, it is highly recommended that you go to the local dealer and try the bikes you are interested in, as the website will not answer how you feel on the bike. In many cases, members of the PBM cycling group have bikes, so look at the survey results and talk to your fellow members.
Additionally, you need to consider how you will transport the bike. The lightweight bikes can be transported on standard hitch bike racks or inside the vehicle (check your rack to see how much weight it is rated for). The heavier bikes will need a rack that can take their weight, and you may need a ramp so that you can push the bike up onto the rack. See the comments in our rider survey comments document.
Now is a good time to buy an e-bike, as prices have come down substantially in some cases, and there are discounts, both upfront and negotiable.
Other Considerations
Be prepared for the eventuality of running out of battery or of a mechanical problem. For instance, if you get a flat, you won't be able to change the tire/tube on a hub-drive bike (need tools to disconnect the wiring, etc.), plus there is the weight to consider even on a bottom bracket bike. Getting home can be a problem with any bike, but with an e-bike, you have a bigger problem – how will you be able to arrange the ride home or to where your car is?
Many e-bikes will use tubeless tires. This is an advantage as you can run lower pressures and you are much less likely to get a flat, but tubeless tires need sealant every few months. There are several good calculators online that tell you what pressure to run ([Tire Pressure Calculator]). The sealant will seal small holes and prevent a flat, but if the sealant has dried out, it obviously won't work, so this needs maintenance. The same can be said for hydraulic brakes.
