HornBlasters Dual Tank Spare Tire Delete Instructions

1.) Horn Installation

Mount the four black Shocker bells in the direction shown in the accompanying photos. The small nut located at the opening of each bell can be tightened with a ⅜" socket, and the rear nut with a ½" wrench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THESE.

2.) Tank Fittings

Assemble the two gallon tanks as illustrated. Ensure you use the supplied Teflon tape on all fittings that do not already have a pre-applied PTFE paste.

Tank 1:

• ¼" Drain Cock
• ¼" Safety Blow Off
• ½" PTC Elbow
• ¼" Plug
• ½"-¼" Reducer
• ¼" Plug

Tank 2:

• HB-200 PSI Air Gauge
• ¼" Drain Cock
• ¼" Plug
• ½" PTC Elbow
• ¼" Run Tee & ¼" Plug
• ½" Plug

3.) Tank Mounting

Using the supplied tank mounting hardware, begin by attaching tank "1" (the one without the air gauge) to the bracket as shown in the picture. Then, mount the remaining tank "2" (which has the gauge installed) onto the other side of the bracket.

4.) Valve and Horn Fittings

Mount the valve on the bracket as high up on the guides as possible using the supplied hardware. Once the valve is mounted, install the ½" elbow labeled "[fitting 1]" on the inlet side of the valve and the ½" - 4 x 5/16" splitter labeled "[fitting 2]" on the outlet side of the valve.

Locate the air inlet of each Shocker bell. Screw in the four ¼" NPT-5/16" air line push-to-pull elbows to each horn, as indicated in the picture with a [star symbol]. Use a 9/16" wrench to tighten the elbows.

Cut the 5/16" airline supplied with the kit into four equal pieces, each 18" long. Run each piece of airline from the elbows to the banjo fitting labeled "[fitting 2]".

5.) Compressor and Pressure Switch Mounting

With the compressor mounting hardware from the part box, place the compressor in the bracket, aligning the mounting holes with the mounting slots on the bracket. Loosely tighten the four bolts until the compressor sits snug. Apply Teflon tape to the compressor's check valve before routing the leader hose through the inside of the bracket to the ¼" run tee. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE CHECK VALVE (12-15 ft lbs only). Once the check valve is tightened, fully tighten the compressor mounting hardware.

Remove the pressure switch from its packaging. Locate the front port on your tank that has the ½"-¼" reducer; this is where you will mount the pressure switch. Start by loosely hand-tightening the pressure switch into place, followed by one half-turn clockwise with a wrench. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE PRESSURE SWITCH (12-15 ft lbs only).

The leader hose is routed to the ¼" run tee installed on the innermost port of "tank 2". A supplied ¼" plug is included to block off the front ¼" port that is not utilized. You can route the leader hose as needed, ensuring the spare tire hangar crank can fit into the center of the bracket without hitting the leader hose.

6.) Valve Plumbing

Cut 3 pieces of ½" airline to the following sizes:

• A. 1 ½"
• B. 3 ¾"
• C. 9 ½"

Piece 1 connects between fitting inlets [fitting 1] and [fitting 2].

Piece 2 connects between fitting inlets [fitting 3] and [fitting 4].

Piece 3 connects between fitting inlets [fitting 5] and [fitting 6].

Minor adjustments may be needed to ensure a tight seal on all air line connections.

7.) Assemble Spare Tire Delete Feet & Install Them

The photo to the left shows the order of the pieces for the spare tire delete feet, as well as a fully assembled foot (4 feet total). The photos below demonstrate how to install the spare tire delete feet to the bracket.

8.) Safety Cable Mounting

Attach the safety cables to the top of the bracket as shown in the photos once the kit has been installed on the vehicle.

9.) Relocate Compressor Air Filter

1. Place the remote mounting bracket onto the inlet air filter assembly and align attachment holes.
2. Fasten the bracket to the inlet air filter with the two screws provided.
3. Screw a ½" NPT (F) x ½" tube fitting onto the inlet air filter, hand-tighten (no thread tape needed).
4. Locate an appropriate area for the remote inlet filter installation. Ensure the location is dry and away from heat sources.
5. Drill a ⅜" mounting hole, then push the remote filter bracket pin into the hole.
6. Screw a ⅜" NPT (M) x ½" tube fitting onto the compressor's air inlet port, tighten with a wrench (no thread tape needed).
7. Attach the provided ½" air line to the barbed tube fitting of the compressor's air inlet port.
8. Route the air line to the remote air filter, measure, and cut to the appropriate length, then attach to the remote inlet air filter.

⚠️ WARNING: FAILURE TO RELOCATE THE COMPRESSOR AIR FILTER OUT OF THE ELEMENTS WILL VOID YOUR WARRANTY. PLEASE DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.

STEP 10. Spare Tire Delete Feet Extensions (If Needed)

When hoisting your spare tire delete in place, if there is too much clearance for your feet to stabilize the bracket against the cross-members, use the included 4 feet extensions. These allow you to extend the feet by 4" to provide the necessary adjustment for stabilizing the kit. The illustration shows a fully assembled foot with the extension for reference (4 total).

In the spare tire delete extensions hardware bag, you will find 8 extra nuts, 8 lock washers, and 4 longer bolts to extend the feet. Figure A shows a layout of the components included in the hardware bag, and Figure B provides a breakdown of the order in which they will be installed to the Spare Tire Delete Feet.

Wiring the Compressor (150H)

Compressor Wiring:

• A = 10 Gauge Tan Ring Terminal
• B = Pressure Switch
• C = 18 Gauge Red Male Spade Connector
• D = 10 Gauge Yellow/Green Female Spade Connector
• E = Air Compressor

An ignition/key power source can be any circuit that is hot when the vehicle is on. Examples include the radio, daytime running lights, power seats, cigarette lighter, or an accessory fuse. You can use the included T-Tap or Scotchlok connector to tap onto one of these circuits. Alternatively, an add-a-fuse can be sourced separately and used to pull key power from the fuse box. The cigarette lighter fuse is almost always key-power on, as are fuses for power outlets. If the compressor runs when the vehicle is off, your power source is hot all the time.

Ensure the supplied 8/10-gauge red wire runs from the fuse holder up to the pressure switch's red wire. The supplied 18-gauge wire can be used for the key-power connection (blue wire).

Wiring the Horns: Connecting the Train Horns to the Steering Wheel

This diagram illustrates how the valve can be wired to the steering wheel to activate these horns.

1. Start by locating the factory horn under the hood. It is typically near the radiator or in either the driver's or passenger side fenderwell. Look for the 2-wire connector going into the stock horn.
2. Examine the two wires connected to the stock horn. One will be black, and the other will be a bright color. You need to tap into the brightly colored wire (use a voltmeter or test-light to confirm it is positive).
3. Open your T-Tap connector and position the OEM horn wire through the connector as shown. The red lead in the diagram represents the OEM horn wire, while the grey lead is the new wire that will splice into the tap.
4. Align the 18-gauge grey wire within the connector. Close the plastic tab at the top to secure the wires. Using needle-nose pliers, squeeze the metal tab into the connector to puncture both wires, thereby splicing them together.
5. Connect the grey wire from the OEM horn lead to the toggle switch. Connect the opposite side of the toggle switch to the red wire on your solenoid valve. Then, ground the black lead from the valve to the vehicle's frame.
6. Press the steering wheel and listen for a "click" at the valve. You can disconnect the ground from the stock horn if it honks and overpowers the click.

Wiring the Horns: Connecting the Train Horns to the Push Button

This diagram shows how the valve can be wired to a push button to honk these horns.

1. Find a suitable location on the vehicle's frame rails or crossmembers near the kit to ground the negative side of the valve using a red ring terminal. (Sand to bare metal for the best connection).
2. Locate where you want to place your push button. After securing it, connect one side of the push button directly to the battery using the grey 18-gauge wire, a red butt connector, and a red ring terminal.
3. Connect the other side of the push button to the positive side of the air valve using the remaining 18-gauge wire and a red butt connector.
4. Before turning the system on, activate your push button and listen for the air valve clicking to ensure it is correctly hooked up.

Now you're off to the races, HAPPY HONKING!